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Raskolnikov38 posted:anyone got tips for custom decal printing? I'm trying to get white text with a transparent background. but since you can't print white ink, i've been trying to print the text on white decal paper and then cut out the letters which is less than ideal. any suggestions or is it just a matter of patience with scissors and an exacto knife The low-effort-high-cost option is to have them printed for you. Bedlam Creations printed some amazing full color (+white) decals for me.
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Sep 11, 2018 15:29
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Molentik posted:Evergreen is loving expensive thougg, at least here in EU.
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Oct 4, 2018 14:25
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Smoke posted:
I just finished the 1/72 TIE Interceptor last week, it's a really nice kit. 
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Oct 12, 2018 03:18
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Puddin posted:That's real nice. What's the rough dimension of the inner sphere capsule? looks like the capsule is an inch and a half from front to back.
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Oct 13, 2018 04:58
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FrozenVent posted:
That's exactly what Lahmian Medium is, but for decals you want a gloss coat, which is what 'ardcoat is.
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Nov 27, 2018 07:33
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That's a great looking cockpit, what's the scale of that kit? I'm looking forward to seeing it complete, the P40E is my favorite WWII fighter. Ive got a 1:48 kit on my wishlist.
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Dec 18, 2018 08:22
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Wanted to take a break from all the Warhammer figures I've been painting so I put together the Bandai Resistance X-Wing kit.  Got some decals from a few different kits to give it a paint job like a WWII fighter during the Normandy invasion. Really happy with how it turned out.
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Feb 2, 2019 04:21
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Ensign Expendable posted:I had a good experience with them. The colour modulation kits are not great, but if you buy the correct colours individually they work fine. Vallejo Air Colour is already thinned for airbrushing, unlike Tamiya, which needs proprietary thinner. I get better results with Vallejo Mecha Varnish (gloss and flat) than I had with Tamiya varnishes as well. The mecha line in general is really good but the matte varnish is exceptional.
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Feb 7, 2019 06:52
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Pierzak posted:Tell me more about the Mecha Varnish. I'm on a quest for decent miniature varnish. How does it differ from the standard bottle one and the big-bottle polyurethane one (both Vallejo)? I've only used the matte, not the gloss. The matte is super matte, and it is super forgiving when applying it, I tend to spray it on thick and it maintains its matte qualities. Other matte spray's that I've used have gotten a little glossy if you applied them too thick. I can't really vouch for the supposed durability of it, but it hasn't rubbed off of any of my models.
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Feb 8, 2019 04:38
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Unkempt posted:You can also just pay people to do it for you, like these guys: The Bedlam creations guys are top notch. I got some custom 40k decals printed from them. Turn around was fast and the quality was great. Archer dry transfers are also an option for generic military markings.
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Mar 26, 2019 05:58
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Phi230 posted:So I have the tamiya weathering powder, like that they sell like makeup? Is this recommended for making gun streaks on planes or is there some other way I should apply this. It seems the makeup applicator they give to you is kind of imprecise to use for fine lines I've never used it for gun streaks but I don't see why you couldn't do that. You can use a fine brush to apply it. I mostly use them for metals, heat discoloration and wider dirt/grime/dust.
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Apr 10, 2019 23:13
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Yeah I think it's watered down vinegar. I have the faintest memory of once long ago being told to use water+vinegar to apply water slide decals to model airplanes.
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Apr 10, 2019 23:56
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The_Rob posted:So I bought my first ever airbrush today and I'm a little nervous on using it. Anyone got some hot tips? The best tip is to just loving do it. There is nothing to be afraid of, start on some old models or spare sprue and experiment. As long as you do a decent job cleaning after each session, you can't really gently caress anything up beyond recovery.
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Apr 17, 2019 15:45
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Granite Octopus posted:I found the Tamiya retarder to work really well for reducing visible brush strokes. Might have just been because it was really hot and dry here but might be worth trying out. That's one of the side effects of drying retarder, the longer it takes to dry the more leveling can take place which eliminates Brush strokes.
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May 14, 2019 07:02
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There are services that will print white on transparent waterslides for you. I got mine from Bedlam Creations, they were pricey but very high quality.
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Aug 3, 2019 05:12
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Goons would have really let me down if there wasn't a dedicated thread to miniature painting. Thanks! There’s actually three, but the other two threads are best not mentioned.
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Aug 19, 2019 23:44
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Arquinsiel posted:Optimus Prime it up. Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s a law that all Kenworth cabovers need to be painted red and blue.
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Oct 15, 2019 07:39
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Airbrush thinner talk... Commercial airbrush thinner is just IPA and Water, you can make your own at home for cheap, mix IPA and distilled water 1:9. The IPA breaks down the binding agent, and the water dilutes the paint. If you just use IPA it will break down the binder and then immediately evaporate and leave you with a mess. Flow Improver is a de-surfaceant (breaks surface tension) and a drying retarder. It makes the paint flow through the brush better and leaves it wet just a bit longer, too much flow improver will cause the paint to slide off your surface giving you pooling or spiderwebbing. When you're using a thick Acrylic paint like Game Color, use thinner to get it to the consistency you need for airbrushing, and then add a little flow improver to make sure it flows and doesn't dry in the brush. If you're using airbrush ready Acrylic paint like Model Air, just use some flow improver to keep it from drying too quickly.
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Nov 23, 2019 15:59
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Granite Octopus posted:Finished the Bandai x-wing. I’m happy with it for my first non-car model. Weathering it was a lot of fun. The decals were a huge pain though, found it very difficult to get them to conform without tearing or breaking. Thankfully the kit comes with a spare canopy decal but it’s still pretty bad. I love those bandai star wars kitsch so much.
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Nov 25, 2019 22:29
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Slugworth posted:Honest question, how on earth are you using enough for this to be a concern? I've used the same 1oz testors bottle for a few years now, having made probably 10 models or so with it. I know I'm probably not as active as some folks here, but is there an aspect of the hobby that requires lots of glue? (Aside from huffing, of course). Scratch building from polystyrene requires copious amounts of plastic cement.
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Dec 31, 2019 09:24
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Do not purchase a Patriot 105 from the birthday sale, after shipping it ends up being the same price as you can get them on sale from other places with fast free shipping. If you want something fancy like a krome or sotar and are willing to wait months for it then it’s a good deal.
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Jan 10, 2020 15:52
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Ensign Expendable posted:What makes a Krome fancy? It's a detail brush with a finer spray nozzle and a rather large heavy body. I bought one in the first Badger Birthday sale, it got lost in the mail and by the time they sorted it all out (months later) I had given up and bought one from Amazon. Turned out I didn't actually like it and switched to a SOTAR 20/20 for my detail work. IMO If you want a fine detail brush get a SOTAR if you have small or normal sized hands, get a Krome if you have big monster hands. The Birthday sale is a great deal if you're buying one of the higher end brushes and you are not on any sort of time table to get it. They ship them slowly via untracked USPS, so if they get lost or damaged in transit Badger will set you right but it can take a long loving time because this sale overwhelms them every single year.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:36
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Vorenus posted:I'm so glad this thread exists. I somehow stumbled across Luke Towan on Youtube and was utterly awed at the level of effort, detail, and precision he puts into his dioramas. It looks like a lot of fun, but for various reasons I don't think it would be feasible, so I decided to try out modeling. I remember building a little RAH-66 Comanche with my dad when I was very young, and figured I would try it out as an adult. That Walker bulldog is a great starter kit, goes together easy, easy to paint, cheap enough that if you mess up you can just get another one, and it look exactly like what people think of when you say “tank”. The decals are a little spartan, but that’s because the real tanks had few markings. Be careful with the running wheels, I accidentally put a pair of them together wrong and it took some finagling to get the rubber treads to go on straight.
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Apr 15, 2020 23:40
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Symetrique posted:Current popular glues are Tamiya Extra Thin and Mr Cement S. Yeah get some Plastic Cement, if you can't find TET or Mr Cement, then the Testors Model Master with the needle tip will do just fine. And for your Super Glue needs, get yourself some Loctite super gel control.
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Apr 16, 2020 05:07
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Charliegrs posted:So really dumb question about airbrushing. Depends on what type of paint you're using, if it's acrylics you can just get a a small desktop paintbooth and vent the air away from your space or out a window. If it's enamel or lacquer , then you'll need something more elaborate that probably won't fit in your apartment.
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Apr 20, 2020 17:04
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Vorenus posted:Most of the M41 assembly is done, and I've just finished putting a third brush coat of enamel on. Not really liking the flat green, or enamels in general, so I have some Tamiya acrylics and thinner on the way. The black on the wheels is entirely unthinned and actually looks the best of all the paint work IMO. I'm thinking I want a camo pattern of dark green/ black/ tan but would love suggestions on what specific colors would look good for a three-part camo. If you're looking for something historically accurate, as far as I can tell American and Japanese Bulldogs were always solid olive green. As I recall the kit also came with Taiwan decals, and they painted theirs in a green brown and black pattern that would be easy to replicate. If you don't need to be historically accurate than you can go crazy. Green and purple digital camo! Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 01:26
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Finished this Academy P40-C last week. One of the first plane kits I've done since I was in high school, and the first WW2 fighter.   Kinda a crap kit, fit was poor and the decals sucked, the machine gun barrels were so tiny and flimsy I had to replace them with plastic rods. I also managed the gently caress up the tail number decal, which is supposed to be 68, so I had to switch it to 7 but keep the other markings from fighter 68. Overall I'm pretty happy with the outcome though.
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Jun 8, 2020 20:48
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mllaneza posted:I got the one with the LED lights and I'm really glad I did. That corner of the apartment is poorly lit after dark, and even with the sun out you can always use more lught. I got the one with the led light strip and it’s never worked right. I just got a pair of proper desk lamps on both sides now.
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Jul 29, 2020 06:38
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mllaneza posted:There's a good chance they just never seated well enough to make electrical contact. There's also a chance - probably better - that you got burned and the return window closed years ago. Yeah that’s exactly the problem, the strip would never stay connected. It was only 10$ more than the one without the lights so I didn’t bother returning it.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:16
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Arquinsiel posted:Those aren't from Macross so they don't count. I have a half built alpha kit, it's complete garbage. I loved that cartoon but apparently the mechs don't translate well to models.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:41
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Phi230 posted:What kind of stuff do y'all use to simulate tubing, wiring, and hoses and whatnot. I see references to wire but is anything in particular recommended? Guitar stings, specifically bass guitar strings are good for hoses and corrugated tubes.
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Aug 30, 2020 08:08
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Saint Celestine posted:Not sure if this the right place, but I don't suppose anyone has some spare waterslide decals with some random numbers on it? drat that thing looks fine. Better than any official BT model I’ve ever seen. And like Hedgehog said, Archer Transfers will get you what you need, they’re a little tricky to apply but look great.
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Sep 4, 2020 08:31
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Nerobro posted:We really need to fix this harmony gold thing. Jesus. From what I understand the Harmony Gold issue has been resolved for a while and the "Unseen" can now be seen. Some of them are even included in the latest Battletech video game.
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Sep 4, 2020 18:50
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jadebullet posted:Question for you guys. When I was growing up, my local playground/baseball field had an M41 Walker Bulldog in it that was part of the playground equipment. I have a lot of fond memories of climbing all over that tank, misidentifying it as a Patton, of course. Tamiya makes an excellent Bulldog model. It's very no frills (no internals, rubber treads) but very affordable and it includes the parts for the travel locked position.
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Sep 28, 2020 03:17
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jadebullet posted:Hey guys, I've been working on the M41 that was very generously gifted to me by Gewehr 43 and I've managed to find a bunch of reference pics of the tank right before the restoration began. I painted mine Valejo Model Color US Olive Drab, which was a bit darker than the color in your picture.
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Oct 7, 2020 07:15
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Adam Savage did a build with sheet styrene and he used Weld On #3
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Oct 26, 2020 07:40
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That's good timing because I wanted to cross post this Gundam I made this week. Gundam kits are always a pleasure to put together and I really enjoy painting them up like realish AFVs instead of fancy anime colors. I used a new (to me) product for masking the camoflage called Parafilm. I was really impressed with it. It's a stretchy plastic flim that is covered with parafin wax, when you stretch it the wax becomes slightly tacky and it can be pressed against a surface to cling there. There's no adhesive so it won't pull up your previous layers of paint, it's ultra thin so there's no paint buildup at the edges, it's flexible and can easily be cut with a hobby knife. The only problem is that since it's so thin and the wax is so light that you have to be careful to spray slightly away from the edge or you'll blow paint under it. Bucnasti posted:I had the week off and put this boy together for the Grunt Build.'
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Nov 9, 2020 00:30
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Pierzak posted:If it's the stuff they use to cover test tubes and other lab glassware, I can confirm it's awesome. And thanks for the reminder, I need to find where I stashed it. Yeah it says "Laboratory Film" on the label. I got it from Micromark, but maybe there's a better source.
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Nov 12, 2020 18:02
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Furism posted:Is there a cutting mat reference people would recommend? Something available in Europe. Cutting mats are pretty much all the same, just search for "Self Healing Cutting Mat" from any local art supply. You can get them in just about any size you need.
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Nov 18, 2020 18:48
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Try Vallejo Intermediate Blue (FS36176). It's nearly a perfect match for the TIE fighter blue. I'm pretty sure this is what I used on mine. I wasn't really trying for an exact match I just really love that paint.  Vallejo also makes a Star Fighter color set that includes a couple different greys, I don't know if how well those match.
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Nov 27, 2020 02:04
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