Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Unkempt posted:

I have a plan to make a bottle of Tamiya paint a foot high for exactly this purpose.

Fearless posted:

Testor's red tube glue is my preferred plastic glue mainly because of the smell. The taste, however, is utterly atrocious.* Truly, we do it for the inhalants.

Fun fact: the glue I have been using at work for plexi and styrene is a modified form of chloroform. I think it is broadly comparable to weld-on 3 or 4 and is applied with sable brushes. It's extremely volatile, but sets rapidly.

*this was discovered by accident and not through an attempt to eat glue.

Fearless posted:

Here are some pictures of the project we delivered today.









I got this job on the strength of my work in wood, white metal, plastic and resin. So far, I have worked with none of those things!

Gewehr 43 posted:

As much as I love this hobby, sometimes it - or rather the people in it - annoy me. For most of my life, I've had a love affair with the B-24 Liberator. I checked out the book "Log of the Liberators" from the local library dozens of times. As a kid, I built the 1/48 Monogram D and J models probably six or seven times. I have pictures of me standing in the waist position of Witchcraft when I was about nine years old, aiming the right .50. The poo poo-eating grin on my face is absolutely priceless.

Here I am, as an adult who has gotten back into the hobby of modeling as a way to decompress and experience some creativity while still keeping at least a tangential focus on history. Never in my life did I ever think I'd see a B-24 model kit in my favorite scale (1/32). I'd dreamed of it. Hoped for it. Wished for it... but the pragmatist in me said that I'd likely never see one and I'd have to settle for that ancient Revell/Monogram kit, still being turned out by the same molds that were used when I built it 30 years ago.

Then HobbyBoss suddenly announced that they had not one, but two different models (both the D and J variants) coming soon - and really soon. As news trickled out, I got really excited. Trumpeter has a history of saying "coming soon" for years, then the kits turn out to be vaporware. But this time, it's different. They're actually releasing this beast. Joy!

Then, I made my mistake. Clamoring for news about the kit and its impending release, I started following threads about it on various forums and social media. The Joyless Modelling Nazi Army is on full war mobilization maneuvers and is tearing the kit apart for really rather minor things.

The top turret is too tall, the kit is garbage!

The wing profile is slightly to thin, gently caress this piece of trash that's being foisted on us.

There's a mold seam down the front turret, this kit is no better than that Revellogram trash that we've been dealing with for years!

I paraphrase only slightly. I know, I know, just don't read the threads. I probably won't any more. It just frustrates me that people can find reasons to bitch and complain about something while simultaneously failing to see the fact that the very thing they're complaining about is something of a windfall in and of itself. I get it, it's not perfect. And, if you don't like it, then vote with your wallet and don't buy it. A fair and open discourse on how to correct particular shortcomings of a kit is one thing. But there is so much hate and vitriol by rivet counters that it's harshing my buzz.

SkunkDuster posted:

Maybe I'm missing something here, but wouldn't any place that sells numbered bits also sell metric bits? Or do the metrics generally only come in sets?

Charliegrs posted:

Hi folks. I'm still trying to get this whole wet sanding and polishing thing down on my 70 Plymouth AAR Cuda model. I painted it with Tamiya LP-7 Pure Red and then clearcoated it with Alclad Gloss clear.

I wet sanded it with 3000 grit sanding sponge, then used Meguiars compound followed by Tamiya fine and then finish polish. The result was... Good but not great. It's pretty smooth but not as smooth as I was hoping for but the main issue is I can still see scratches in the clear. You can kind of see them in the reflection in these images:


I think the issue is I should have kept wet sanding after using the 3000 grit and worked down to something like 8000 grit? Also this was my first time using an airbrush so I think my clear coat wasn't laid down as smooth as it should have been.

Phy posted:

Modelling thread, what cement for joining ABS?

I have some (full-size) motorcycle plastics that have cracked, and I planned on stop-drilling the endpoints then gluing it back together since it's relatively unstressed. AI recommended I use a plastic cement for that rather than my initial idea of Jbweld Plastic.

I have a little jar of dichloromethane that I bought to do some fixes on busted Transformers, but is there a better option? People from a different motorcycle board mentioned using the cement they join sewer plumbing with, but that seems unnecessarily aggressive and gloppy to boot.

Pierzak posted:

So, CA means Cat Adhesive?

_{(Do not glue actual cats with CA glue. Especially without posting pics/videos.)}

Southern Heel posted:

Hopefully this is an appropriate place to post my progress, but happy to take elsewhere if it's making GBS threads up the thread.

Southern Heel posted:

Unfortunately I just can't seem to get one of the joins to hide.

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Lord Ludikrous posted an excellent primer on RC tanks so I'm reposting it for him.

therunningman posted:

I love to page through a good reference book and those look awesome!

I'm so happy that Eduard is bringing the ship model mentality to the tank side of modeling. Somehow I managed to not lose any of the wingnuts and glue the thing together.

Lord Ludikrous posted:

Heng Long does some 1/30 stuff but they aren't that great to be honest. Tamiya 1/35 is still around but is pretty niche and you're paying around 2/3 the price of the equivalent 1/16 Heng Long. Plus at that scale you're dealing with rubber tracks and they're a bit poo poo. 1/16 is the way to go really.