Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I can attest to Dragon being kick rear end. Sometimes their stuff is almost too-detailed. You open the box and are just ".... oh gently caress, this is going to take for-loving-ever to assemble."

I think I've mentioned it before, but their most complex model I've worked on was a Panzer IV. Over 1000 pieces, including several variant pieces that let you choose between 3 different Panzer IV's to build. Saying that, some of their PE is a little on the crappy side. It just seems more fragile than a lot of other PE kits. Their stowage clamps in particular are just useless, and I've had much better luck with 3rd party clamp sets.

Dragon went through a big change about 10 years ago, they went from being pretty much garbage kits with terrible fit issues and instructions being horribly horribly wrong. To what they are now, in that detail wise quite often they will spank tamiya, they are not as well engineered as tamiya's kits, and don't compete on price with tamiya anymore (they are both loving expensive). And the super kits (the tiger 1 3 in 1, and most of the panzer IV kits) are stupidly complicated. The Smart kits are fantastic though. The Photo etch on the kits tends to be on the absurd side though, with some of the bits impossible to make accurately.

But here is a great example of someone taking one of the premium ed kits and going completely mental.

Crazy superdetailed build here

# ¿ Oct 3, 2009 00:15

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 04:49

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Pagan posted:

That is insane. Just, seriously insane. It looks good in the end, but god drat.

That, and the large scale space marine, make me ask a question. If you're going to go through and superdetail and replace the vast majority of the pieces, why even buy a kit in the first place?! Not only did he buy the kit, but it looks like he bought both a Verlinden AND a Dragon detailing kit, along with even more stuff. And he doesn't use ANYTHING from the Verlinden upgrade; just pix to show how much it sucks, and he uses very little from the dragon upgrade kit. The vast majority of the work is done by hand, scratchbuilding.

So why spend between $200 and $300 for kits and upgrades when you're going to end up doing it all from scratch anyway?

well theres also a guy (watanabe Super crazy here) on that site that bought a 251/x kit and decided that it was crap, and fabricated the whole thing out of brass. Its just a special kind of crazy I guess.

# ¿ Oct 3, 2009 23:27

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

ZenMastaT posted:

So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too.

I use mr surfacer and a dedicated paint brush. But you can make your own just by disolving some putty in the right thinner (for tamiya and mr surfacer its a lacquer thinner).

# ¿ Dec 11, 2009 23:13

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Kerro posted:

How viable are the super cheap airbrush/compressor kits for just laying down solid colour? The only reason I'd really want an airbrush is for that purpose i.e. I don't need it for detail work. I assume the super-cheap airbrush+compressor kits on ebay suck, but I don't know in what way do they suck - can they still paint a solid coat okay or are they likely to not work at all? I'm thinking of this or this sort of thing.

I have a hard time making sense of the different types of airbrushes/compressors available at different price points.

If you can find it, just get the basic Tamiya set eg. It should come with a AC adapter pretty much everywhere (but the right kind is a stupidly easy to get and quite cheap anyway). It will last forever, is easy to clean, and most people keep using it for base coats even after getting better brushes.

# ¿ Dec 16, 2009 20:39

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

And enamels aren't something that Tamiya does, so that's out.

hrrmmm.. Tamiya would like to disagree with you there

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/enamel_gloss/kit80001.htm
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/enamel_flat/kit80301.htm

The Tamiya thinners tend to include some other stuff as well, usually flow agents and retarders. The Mr Color leveling thinner also does this. Your standard white spirt thinner may need additional additives depending on your local weather conditions (ie in summer you will want some retarder in there, in the winter usually not so much unless your air is really dry).

But you usually can't beat the gallon jugs of white spirits from your local hardware shop on price.

I would recommend getting small amounts of what you can, and find out what works best for you.

# ¿ Jan 1, 2010 23:14

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

No Pun Intended posted:

Well using high tech odor analysis (huffing it) the Tamiya enamel thinner gives of a mild turps smell so I guess it should work.

While it should work, the Tamiya thinners often contain other things in them (ie flow agents and retarders), so while it should work. You might end up with horrible results, so do a test first on a sacrifical part/model.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2010 00:23

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Unkempt posted:

I think I'm going to mask + paint the stripes, then just use it for the logos, which will be a lot easier to fit properly. Not today though, more paint to buy...

Just pring the logos onto cardstock, and then use it as stencils for the logos. Do the old seperation of colors and then you can paint the whole lot, there are many places on the net that you can send images to, and they will produce a set ot stencils in masking materials, and then you can paint away.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2010 22:54

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

And heres a really crazy scratch detailed bradley.

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=107003&page=1

Its really nuts, and he has been working on it since 2004.

# ¿ May 15, 2010 23:36

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Xenomrph posted:

I glanced through the thread and didn't really see it mentioned (but maybe I'm just dumb ) but does anyone have any tips/tutorials for working with resin model kits? I've done lead models, I've done pewter models, and I've done plastic models, but I've never worked with resin.

Anything special I should know when it comes to prepping/priming/assembling/painting the stuff?

Wear a face mask, a nice big particle filter mask, as you need to do lots and lots of sanding, and the resin they use tends to be horribly horribly bad for you (like you die if you do it too much). Otherwise, be sure to wash much more throughly than the white metal kits, and put down a nice thin undercoat (dilute mr surfacer 1200/1000 works really well). You will also want to pin things as CA doesn't like resin too much in my experence. So I tend to use two part epoxy (obviously small bits you can get away with CA).

# ¿ May 21, 2010 05:24

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Xenomrph posted:

Jesus christ. This sounds like a loving nightmare. I mean, I take my model-building hobby pretty seriously, but not "poison myself to death" seriously.

What should I be doing for sanding? Like, am I sanding the whole model? If so, why? I mean, I'm familiar with using metal files on metal/plastic models, but I've never had to use sandpaper on a model before.

Likewise, I've also never had to pin a model, which sounds like a pain in the rear end.

Resin is not horrible, it just requires a few more saftey steps as it is pretty nasty (like nose bleeds nasty), Sanding is usually for the mold lines, flash, joints and pour blocks. But your best tool is a microsaw and being careful to not snort the dust

I just use a 3m sanding mask ($10 or so) and that blocks pretty much everything. Occasionally depending on how good the company your getting the model from your requirements for sanding or filling might be near zero, or you could have a huge amount to do.

Pining is not that hard, it just requires some practice and occasionally you have to do nuts things like drill through both parts from the outside so its all lined up right and then fill the hole after the pin is in it. The best way I saw how to do it was in a p3 vid, in that after you have drilled one hole, you just some blu-tack on the joint and push the parts together and then you can see where the hole is and what angle its at, so its much easier to drill at that point.

# ¿ May 23, 2010 22:36

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Unkempt posted:

I made another thing; 1:32nd Airfix Ford Escort Mk1. This is a terrible kit that must date from the 60s or so. Still, I had fun with it.

Good job, but one thing I would have changed would have been the windows, as you fogged them up, I would have sanded them thinner or swapped for some thin sheet plastic (like the stuff that blister packs are made from). As with the break, the front windshield looks way too thick (sorry for super picky). The rust job is fantastic, did you use pigments?

# ¿ May 10, 2012 01:00

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Unkempt posted:

Yeah, the windows are way too thick but I only really noticed that once I'd actually broken the front one. How would you use the thin plastic? Just bend it into shape or mould it? I guess I could have used the original windscreen as a mould but hey, too late now. I'll chalk that one up as a learning experience. To be honest, I didn't mean to fog them up that badly either.

The fogging is not really a problem, and makes your life a lot easier with what you can do to thin the windows.

As per the thin plastic, it's flexible enough that you can just cut it to shape and then press it to where it's going and the glue once set will be able to hold it. But you can heat form it as well (with a heat gun or hairdryer on hot, but you need to be very careful to get the right shape, so built a form to do this).

# ¿ May 15, 2012 21:35

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Boomer The Cannon posted:

What glue do you use for clear plastic? I find regular craft glue works fine, and doesn't make as much of a mess if it smears. Let it dry and if you're careful you can peel it off like Liquid Mask, without consequence.

I use revell contacta pro and as long as I am frugal with it, it doesn't frost up. But the Tamiya ultra thin works also works pretty well.

White glue/PVA would also work, but can form really weak bonds in high humidity.

# ¿ May 16, 2012 07:32

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Epi Lepi posted:

I don't know if anyone else here does wooden model ships but I got a "beginner" kit for my birthday; this one specifically http://www.amazon.com/Latina-Virgin...latina+virginia And looking at it I don't think I have the proper tools. Pretty much I have a bunch of tweezers, a lovely craft knife, and a sprue cutter. I'm seeing a couple tool sets on Amazon but I have no idea if any are worth buying. Can someone link me a tool kit that's worth buying?

I don't think thats a beginner kit, as it seems to have a plank vise specifically for it. Maybe email the seller of the kit and get some advise on what tools you need. you can always ask at http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/ as they should know what basics you need.

# ¿ Jun 15, 2012 05:37

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Slugworth posted:

Yeah, that elitism is what makes me so sure I don't need the best manufacturer. The attention to detail some guys have is cool to see, but not something I currently aspire to.

Tamiya produces a very good kit, but you do have to be careful as some of their kits are old molds being used again, or rebranded kits (ie someone elses kit put in a tamiya box). They will tend to be "pretty" accurate ie around 80-90% correct. The only problem is that most of their kits are overpriced compaired to the chinese kits (dragon etc)
But general reviews will tend to be of the "put glue in the box and shake it. out pops a model", so they are well engineered.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2014 03:51

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Greyhawk posted:

You wouldn't believe how often this comes up in train modeler forums when this beast is mentioned. Well, maybe you would.

HO Scale good enough? http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10322413

well actually N scale looks fine. Kato make them. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10286558 or http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10286556

# ¿ Jun 20, 2015 01:34

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

lilljonas posted:

Looking good!

I'm in Hokkaido to visit in-laws, and looking for something to bring home. Right now it's looking like the alternatives are to check the normal malls that have a barebones range of gundams, bic camera which usually has the prior plus a few random kits (tanks and boats, but sometimes an odd maschinen krieger or similar, or really look into a real model shop in Sapporo. Last time I didn't find one, but hunting for a random kit to build sounds fun too.

There is a yodobashi store in sapporo. Outside sapporo station(JR), near the JR tower.

They tend to have everything up on the toy floor.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2015 04:57

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

headcas3 posted:

Does anyone have a sure fire way to remove acrylic paint that looked fine while drunk modelling but somehow is trash and the wrong colour the next day?

Windex. . The blue ammonia one. Soak it and it should all come off.

# ¿ Oct 16, 2015 09:24

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Dr. Phildo posted:

In case there are any Aussie/nz'ers here who are a little nuts, Deagostini finally released Build the Millennium Falcon yesterday. Looks like they haven't updated all the parts like in the Japanese release, so we'll get corrected pieces later, but it's better than nothing! Woooo 2 year project!!

The nz site doesn't have it yet. However it has a 1:16 zero made of aluminium that looks amazing, but at $80 a month of 25 deliveries it's quite expensive.

# ¿ Feb 24, 2016 02:16

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Gewehr 43 posted:

Hi, guys. I'm doing a build log for a Dragon Panzer IV over at /r/modelmakers and imgur. It's aimed at beginner-to-intermediate builders who want to try to tackle a more advanced kit. Check it out. I'd love to hear any feedback you may have on my processes.

All of the narrative is in the Imgur album itself, but any questions or comments that come up will be handled here or at the reddit thread.

Awww it's one of the smart kits. In my youthful stupidity I brought 4 or 5 of the Dragon pIV super kits (1200-1400ish parts) now I don't think I will ever find time to make them.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2016 02:53

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

jadebullet posted:

It's a long shot, but has anyone built the newer Fujimi J1N1 Gekko that has the Rabule theme? I want to know whether it has the remote controlled turrets modelable or not.

From looking at the instructions scanned on 1999.co.jp it does have the dorsal guns (step 4) on the 1/72 scale kit.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2016 23:33

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Ensign Expendable posted:

The diorama is basically done. Any advice before I give it one final clearcoat?

Needs more dust and small rubble. Lots of stuff in different sizes.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2018 08:41

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Looking good. But the pile under the tank trap needs the same treatment as it looks too clean.

# ¿ Jul 16, 2018 09:23

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Taintrunner posted:

If I wanted to, for some totally nonsense reason, build a V-22 Osprey model kit, who would you reccomend I get it from?

If you don't want to paint it. Tomytec has the gimix line which are pre-painted 1/144 kits. They have 4 or so different osprey kits.

https://www.tomytec.co.jp/gimix/lineup/other/index_v22.html

Wibbleman fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jul 23, 2018

# ¿ Jul 23, 2018 09:39

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 04:49

Wibbleman: Apr 19, 2006; Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed

Plasmo is at it again to make you feel deeply inadequate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15nPDcuqDTI

this time its a 1/12 Tamiya Kawaski Ninja H2R, the chrome and carbon fibre decal bits took him huge amounts of time, and I am not sure I could do it without throwing everything against the wall.

# ¿ Apr 19, 2019 00:31

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants