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DSLR cameras write to an internal buffer before they write to SD Card the buffer size and the quality determines how long they can sustain the full FPS shooting speed, my 80D can do 10fps but only for a small time at full RAW. More expensive cameras have bigger buffers and then things like the Nikon D500 have 2 card systems for ludicrous buffering to a very fast card for sustained high FPS. However 1 1/3 shot per second should be pretty easy, the issue might be that the camera is exposing for 1/3rd of the interval but it has 2/3 of a second to empty the buffer so should be fine. I use this app https://dslrdashboard.info/introduction/ to control my camera (I use the Android version in the field for focus stacking macro) you can configure the camera and set a time lapse whether it works for your camera is unclear 1200D is supported so I can't see why it wouldn't. Some remote software introduce delays into the intervals to avoid locking the camera as remote controlling can be unreliable, you can configure this in the software usually.
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Apr 2, 2019 11:04
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I'll test my 80D over wireless using QDSLR today see if I can get 1 exposure a second.
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Apr 2, 2019 14:30
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I tried my 80D using QDSLR over wifi 10 frames with 1 sec separation did not work it started okay but after 3 frames the delays became inconsistent and it ended too soon 10 frames with 2 seconds separation worked fine, the shutter speed didn't seem to matter. I feel the limit here is the remote control interface just being a bit poo poo when you try and do things quickly.
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Apr 2, 2019 23:37
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EL BROMANCE posted:Am needing to pick about 50-80 photos from 1,000 for printing an album, and imported them into Lightroom CC. I use Classic on my main computer primarily, but working on my laptop... like, nobody actually uses this thing right? Yeah it's poo poo.
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Apr 26, 2019 23:35
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Sign up with an agency like Getty or become a freelance photographer.
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Apr 30, 2019 16:16
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Is this in the library or in develop mode?
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May 5, 2019 10:22
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Tunicate posted:Photos on my canon rebel take longer to process when ISO is set high, so my question is, WTF? Do you mean process in camera or on the computer?
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Jun 5, 2019 23:25
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MrBlandAverage posted:This sounds much more like a color space/profile issue than a format or hosting issue. Yeah you exporting with sRGB?
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Jun 10, 2019 18:56
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 5 seconds messing with curves in PS, the purple cast on that one is very strong though.
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Jun 18, 2019 23:35
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Never used it but it should be able to do a curves adjustment.
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Jun 19, 2019 00:06
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Front master strobe and a bounced fill for the crowd
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Aug 14, 2019 00:01
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You mounting the speedlight on camera? If not might as well just get 2 AD200's
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Oct 30, 2019 21:37
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melon cat posted:No, probably not mounting the speedlight on camera. I was considering 2x AD200Pros, but if the TT685 and AD200Pro produce two very different types of light (and I feel like they would) maybe two AD200s is the way to go. The light the AD200 produces is really down to the head you put on.
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Oct 30, 2019 23:51
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You can share directly from Flickr app to Instagram. Go to your image in the Flickr app, hit the share icon (3 small circles connected by 2 lines), choose the Instagram icon with feed next to it.
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Oct 31, 2019 12:48
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I use Flickr as my primary show off place for my photos, I have Lightroom hooked to it using the Flickr plugin, this means if I want to made a slight edit change I can just re-publish the photo to Flickr though Lightroom. I also put some of my more 'mainstream appeal' images on Instagram and do this by sharing from the Flickr app.
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Oct 31, 2019 13:47
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Dump a CR2 somewhere and I'll take a look.
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Nov 6, 2019 09:54
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spongepuppy posted:I always assumed that it's because the ergonomics of macro lens design prioritizes close-distance shooting (as opposed to being a design tradeoff between internal-focus lenses and trombone-style ones). My Canon macro has 3 focus limiter settings full range, limit focus travel to macro ranges and then one for over macro ranges using the right limit settings helps with focus speed at that distance.
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Nov 26, 2019 14:43
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Anyone rented an expensive lens? I called up a rental company here in the UK for a 600mm f/4 Canon IS II (yeah) for 1 week. Is it common to ask for the total value of the lens to be transferred to the company for the duration of the rental? Also I would have to add it to my insurance for destruction/theft. They want £300+vat and charges and delivery.
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Jan 14, 2020 15:10
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Thom12255 posted:In the US I use Lensrental.com which I've never had a problem with for cameras/lenses. Yeah so essentially I'd have to give them the value of the lens and then if something happened to it they'd take that money and then i'd have to negotiate with my own insurance who might value the lens differently and might give me the lens which I don't want to buy at that price want rather than the cash value of the lens back. edit: I just rang these guys and it is much simpler, insurance is included, slightly pricer but all up front costs. http://www.lensesforhire.co.uk/product/canon-ef-600mm-f4-l-is-ii-usm jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jan 14, 2020 |
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Jan 14, 2020 15:28
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XBenedict posted:Are you trying to say “security deposit”, or am I misunderstanding everything? my understanding is security deposit would be held in trust not just paid as if I was buying the lens with the promise of getting it back when the lens was returned which is was the Wex guy was saying, maybe I misunderstood.
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Jan 14, 2020 16:12
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I'm pretty cynical, some photographers want people to imagine that their photos congeal from their personal pure talent and involve no technical side at all and as such are not very keen to talk shop lest it give people a view behind the curtain. Ultimately despite Instagram, Facebook etc you have to take photos for yourself (unless you get paid for them obvs) because outside of a few nerds who take similar images other people (especially other photographers) are generally not that interested in your photographs.
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Jan 28, 2020 16:34
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xzzy posted:No one is interested in MY photographs, that's true. You're not indeed but some people just don't want to share.
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Jan 28, 2020 17:19
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Wild EEPROM posted:A fast hard drive is a dumb loving idea and should be an ssd for the operating system, a hard drive is fine for bulk storage, and you also gain massive performance in adobe with a discrete gpu over integrated. I think they meant an SSD (people call them hard drives still) Lightroom uses a lot of cache space, it's good to have an SSD with space for your cache.
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Jan 30, 2020 15:16
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Thom12255 posted:This is just a question I've had floating around in my head for a few years - how come macro lenses tend to be pretty cheap compared to normal top-tier lens like a 50mm f/1.2? Most macros are f/2.8 wide open you pay alot for f/1.2 A lot of macros have manual focus because you don't really need AF for macro when you are generally using a flash and focussing by moving the camera, some even have manual aperture control (much harder to use.) The Canon 100mm L macro is 1x has IS and AF and is f/2.8 it's a bit cheaper than the f/1.2L and the f/1.4 50mm Canon is half its price so you're paying for that wide open aperture with good optical quality. Macros don't need to be so wide open as most of the time they are not going to be that open because the DOF will be a razor at macro distances. jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 16:59
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:Hi, thread. A couple years ago I bought a Canon Rebel T3i before I went on vacation. I took some really nice pictures but I know deep down I'm not using this camera to its potential and have some casual interest in getting more out of it. I'm interested in macro photography because I want to take pictures of aquarium fish, corals, and watches. I know the glass and water add quite a bit of complexity so I'll probably start with watches. For nature stuff you generally want ~100mm for reach so you are not disturbing the subject, you can get 60mm or 35mm for studio stuff where you are in full control, no hard or fast rules here though people use many focal lengths for all types of macro it's a personal thing. After the lens macro is about lighting and/or stacking, your depth of field is very narrow when shooting very close so you will want to close down the lens to increase this for single exposures or stack by taking multiple exposures and moving the focus point or subject/camera each time. People do both for really, really close up stuff or for maximum quality when in a studio. If you are limited to a single frame (most nature macro of live active stuff) you need a flash for two reasons one because you are shooting such a closed down aperture (f/11-13) for acceptable depth of field you need extra light and two because when something is magnified your IQ is greatly affected by camera shake so the flash pulse freezes out the camera motion. You will find that a lot of the best macro (especially of live insects) is taken by people who are pushing optics/cameras/lighting to the limits often with very frankenstein setups that are custom built, there are off the shelf type solutions but even these have limits/draw backs and most macro photographers are using some sort of custom setup largely based around getting as much diffused light as they can on subject as quickly as possible. In the studio most are stacking using automated rails and software to control the camera/rail i'd recommend stacking for watches (just be sure to stop the action 1st so the handles are not moving mid shot.) We have a macro thread here in the Dorkroom so feel free to ask some more questions there.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:30
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xzzy posted:He doesn't have much of an online presence (just an instagram account) but I find the setup for the macro dude in this video to be super interesting: Yeah that's the general idea that most people are using, it gets harder when you are doing greater than 1x APS-C/FF on really small stuff with light fall off and bellows factor meaning your flash isn't firing fast enough to freeze out the hand motion. Those smaller mirrorless and m4/3 camera actually really help with light because the flash is closer to the subject because the whole setup other than the flash is smaller, that guy's not quite shooting at the magnification/resolution that I like to try and get but I have to use a larger DSLR, there's tradeoffs everywhere with macro. Also some insects are spooked by the large white diffuser and the light can be too flat if you like more a contrasty feel to your images so it's all a trade off with regards to light quality/speed/practicality. This hoverfly is 9mm long and the photo full res is 3423x2738  Hover Fly Pink by Aves Lux, on Flickr jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 17:02
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joat mon posted:Is that a stack or one shot? If one, how do you get your DOF so wide? That's one frame with flash, the depth of field is still narrow at f/11 probably only ~1 mm with the hoverfly being maybe 2.5mm wide at the head so maybe 50% in focal plane but the real skill of macro is in making best use of the narrow depth of field with your composition (and a large slice of trial and error/luck) This photo isn't even a good example of that concept, this butterfly is taken without flash at f/5.6 (it's a bigger insect so further away ~37cm from sensor according to EXIF as this was taken with an AF lens, where as the hoverfly was taken with fixed focus lens) but no flash so narrow DoF but by getting the proboscis and eyes in focus by slanting the angle I can make the best of the DoF.  Red Admiral Proboscis by Aves Lux, on Flickr
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Feb 19, 2020 17:35
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1700 USD buys you a much stronger PC.
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Feb 20, 2020 22:59
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Shutter speed might be too low even for a wide fast lens in low light.
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Feb 24, 2020 11:07
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Lightroom has an option where it wont show full quality even in develop mode unless you disable it, things can look very different, Check your "develop" settings under the performance tab in preferences. You can also set 1:1 previews for the library mode. Basically there's all sorts of things going on under the hood to improve performance by sacrificing IQ in previews and other places apart from final output. If you have a moderately powerful computer and are not messing with thousands and thousand of RAWs you can usually turn them off if you like seeing full quality all the time.
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Feb 26, 2020 19:55
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ijyt posted:I've not been out shooting for a while, and I'm heading out of town for the weekend and want to bring my camera, I only want to bring 2 lenses with me, thinking a 50 and either a 24-70 or a 70-300, any thoughts on the two lenses you wouldn't leave home without? 100mm macro and 18-135mm
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Mar 5, 2020 00:28
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Glass objects are generally shot using diffused rear light in a black room https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9NlA7yzFrw jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 09:48 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 09:44
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xzzy posted:Every drinking glass is going to distort, they aren't manufactured with optical clarity as a goal. Just need a Carl Zeiss tumbler.
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May 19, 2020 15:47
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theHUNGERian posted:I am happy to see that I arrived at the same conclusion. But if the glass is of a low quality, the real subject (the liquid inside it) looks off. Your best bet might be a small high quality fish tank and a polarising filter.
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May 19, 2020 18:18
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Hello Spaceman posted:I'm not completely comfortable with the solutions presented on page 1 of the Google search for "removing duplicates in Lightroom Classic", so hoping the goon hivemind has some magical solution in the form of an obscure plugin that is free or cheap. Duplicate as in exact same file with a different name duplicates or similar photos like various versions?
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Jul 2, 2020 21:03
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Hello Spaceman posted:Oh, in this case I’m trying to root out multiple copies of the same images (a byproduct of editing stuff on my iPad and then importing those JPGs alongside the original files from the SD card). Try AllDup http://www.alldup.de/alldup_help/alldup.php Obviously backing things up is recommended before dupe removal attempts.
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Jul 2, 2020 21:42
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mastershakeman posted:Ok thanks! At the very least these are good search terms If your Android supports the latest Google camera app the night mode will do astrophotography mode once it's pointed at the night sky and locked down like on a tripod.
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Aug 9, 2020 22:27
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I use Flickr for show and Amazon Prime for backup.
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Aug 25, 2020 08:14
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BeastOfExmoor posted:Anyone have any good tips or links to get me familiar with taking long exposure night shots of stars/landscapes? I know a tiny bit about image stacking, but a decent intro would be helpful since I'm at a loss for best practices like what ISO I should aim for, how exposed each shot should be, etc. This guide is the place to start. https://www.lonelyspeck.com/
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Aug 27, 2020 21:26
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BisonDollah posted:I thought I was a smartarse and took a bunch of 4k photos on my GH5 during a recent trip. When organising I have noticed they are all mp4 files which Lightroom won't allow me to edit and they're a pain in the arse to sort through. Is there a way to get these files on Lightroom or recommended way to convert them to a different file type en masse? You took videos not photos. You can try a frame grab from them.
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Oct 2, 2020 17:34
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