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Have any of you into sculpting seen this DVD and if so how was it? I am tempted to pick it up for a bit more than the tutorials on the internet but am hesitant with the base cost and international shipping to the states. I have always liked their work though, especially Allan Carrasco's. http://www.figone.fr/en/dvd-la-grande-serie-de-la-peinture-de-figurine-volume-2-la-sculpture/
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Sep 3, 2012 17:16
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You use it every time you finish with that brush for the day. So not just because you put it down, but because you are done for the session. Get the brush wet, drag it towords you several time rotating the brush in the stuff, wipe off excess with your fingers and shape the tip to a point and then put it away till next time.
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Jan 25, 2013 21:43
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Question on how to paint stone, as in to make something look like it is made of stone. I bought the kit for this guy to make a small diorama: I am probably over thinking it, but I can't think of a good way to paint it and make the texture and colors in the end look like the entire thing is made of stone. Anyone have any good tutorials or tips? I am probably over thinking it since I paint stone floors for bases all the time with some dry brushing, but for some reason that doesn't feel like it would be enough for this mini since the main element of it is stone instead of just a detail under the figure. I have it all cleaned up and primed black for the time being.
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Aug 11, 2013 21:12
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krushgroove posted:Where the hell did you find this? Otherworld is the manufacturer, this is their page: http://otherworldminiatures.co.uk/shop/demons-devils/dd1a-the-demon-idol-diorama-pack/ In the states you can buy it from Fantization if they still have it in stock: http://www.fantization.com/thedemonidol-demonsanddevilsx1fig-1-1.aspx Looks like it's gone up in price locally a bit since I bought it a few months back.
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Aug 11, 2013 23:08
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I asked for some advice on this guy ages ago on making it look like real stone and figured now that I have painted him up I should put him up. It looks better in real life rather than this cell phone pick but you get the idea. I am not totally satisfied with the stone appearence but the OSL turned out pretty well especially since I didn't obsess over it. I did end up asking someone leading a painting class at Gencon this year for advice on doing the stone, and he said what has worked well in the past for him is to prime it in white and then take a bottle of black primer and hold it very far back and re-prime it so it only gets splotchy black. This shows through on the other layers and gives a really nice natural stone affect. Of course at this time I had already primed this guy in all black but I will plan to try that on the next stone thing I need to do. 
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Dec 20, 2013 17:08
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Have any of you had trouble using an airbrush for the initial base coat on bones? I just tried to more or less prime a load of bones last night but a lot of the paint just beads up on them. I have had a little problem with them doing this when brushing the first coat on but nothing this bad. Is a washing in order or something else with the minis?
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Jan 17, 2014 14:00
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Thanks, I didn't find those threads you mentioned but I did find some others on airbrushing bones. It seems they don't like it when you thin with water, and people have had better luck with airbrush medium. I'll try that and see. Hopefully will only need to mix paints that way for the base coats.
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Jan 17, 2014 15:29
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I am starting to line up some of the larger bones minis to paint and have decided I want to learn how to better use my airbrush for the minis. Previously I have only really used it for terrain, space tables and priming. For those of you that use an airbrush, is there anything you like to use it for in particular aside from priming and basecoats, particularly on large models? I am definitely going to be trying out some airbrushing on Kaladrax, but may experiment with a couple things on some of the giants as well if it seems worthwhile for either the end result or just to learn.
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Jan 21, 2014 15:46
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Thanks for the links and I am definitely interested in seeing how Kaladrax goes for you. Mold line cleaning on bones has been a pain so far without taking of too much so that will be good to hear as well. I chickened out on the airbrush last night and started on the fire giant queen with a regular brush instead. When I finish her today (hooray for snow closings!) I am hoping to try out the airbrush on one of the other fire giants.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:06
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Flash kills everything but I am excited to finally paint something after several months that wasn't Dwarven Forge or terrain and I didn't want to spend the time to set up a lightbox. I have always really liked this model and I like it even more now that I have finally painted it.
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Jan 23, 2014 01:41
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Deviant posted:"It's been a while, but I should get out my paint-gently caress." The reaper bottles I have are 6+ years old and going strong while any GW pots I have are half as old and either all dried out or almost there. I love the GW metallics but I don't go through them fast enough to warrant it anymore.
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Jan 23, 2014 03:55
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Deviant posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a palette, or a paint rack/station? Build a wet palette (small tuperware, sponge and wax paper) and get a ceramic palette with many dishes like this.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:20
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I would get something with a cord, otherwise it shouldn't matter much. A flex shaft is nice as well but not a requirement Be careful, though. When I have used them for making holes for pins or magnets it can be difficult to secure the mini and keep the drill from skipping and ruining details. If you are primarily working with plastic just stick to hand pin drill.
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Jan 31, 2014 19:36
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Slimnoid posted:I have the Dremel Stylus and it works well for my needs. The battery life lasts for a long-rear end time in between uses, and I have to recharge it maybe once a month at the worst. Fits pretty comfortably in my hand, which is the main selling point for me as my hands can cramp up after a while. My problem with these kinds of battery devices is that after a year or two the battery just won't hold a charge any more and then you have to rebuy the same device. Planned obsolescence in the most annoying of ways. This isn't an iPhone, I still have corded drills from my grandfather that do the job just as well as anything I could go buy today. You also never need to worry about running out a charge or it weakening if you are working for long periods, which may not be an issue if all you ever do with it is pin a few miniatures at a time.
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Jan 31, 2014 20:42
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I painted some things to completion, not including basing, this weekend for the first time in a long time. Nice to get back to it. Also my first time in working with the 10mm scale which I am enjoying. Very satisfying to realize you just painted 120 wargs in one afternoon! (not all pictured here) These are from the Games Workshop Battle of Five Armies game that came out a decade ago. Going to work through the box, the extra metal figures I have that were released for the game, and then maybe look to expand from there. Speaking of, the only models from this line that I don't have are the Storm Giants and the Mirkwood Spiders. Anyone know of any figures that are either in-print or out of print but not in the hundreds of dollars that these ones are on ebay? I might just try to sculpt the spiders myself that isn't happening with the giants. Anyone have any tips for 10mm or other small scale work in general?
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Feb 16, 2015 19:40
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Awesome, thanks all. Will definitely try some of that short static grass. I love using static grass on my 25mm but everything I have seemed like it would way too big on a 10mm model. lilljonas posted:Pendraken has 10mm giant spiders and giants: Those Pendrake spiders look like they will work fine. Will see if I still feel like sculpting some or will just buy those I think. That giant is hideous though. I did more digging late last night and found this guy at Cooplestone and ordered him with a bunch of their 10mm fantasy line. Would love to pick up this elephant with howdah by Eureka Miniatures to use for some Haradrim forces but their stateside store appears to be out and I think I have spent enough on 10mm minis unless its for something that's a great deal and hard to find or till I finish painting what I have and just ordered. Are the Kallistra figures ok scale wise? I have read a couple things online saying they are closer to 13mm than 10mm. I don't mind if its off a little bit but that variance seems pretty big for such a small scale. Any good resources for 10mm bases? The BoFA game I am guessing uses Warmaster rectangles and rounds. I don't know if that size is a standard across game systems or Warmaster specific. nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 16:25
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Do you just cut that magnetic sheet with a scissors or does something else work better? Litko does look pricey, but at least for the moment I am leaning more towards convenience. Anything to keep me painting and not putting things off because I don't want to cut out dozens of little magnetic rectangles and circles to glue onto bases. I'll probably buy those plastic bases linked to on ebay and a roll of that sheet since I need to magnetize ~100 stands of troops I have from the BoFA box anyway. In this same vein, any good solution for carry cases you use with metal bottoms? I assume that's what you want the flex metal for, so you can just stick it to the bottom of some other container to use to port all these guys around in.
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Feb 18, 2015 15:41
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Sydney Bottocks posted:In regards to miniature storage, I took a page out of Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic's book, and bought some cheap steel cake baking pans (the ones that come with plastic covers that have handles on 'em, for transporting cakes) and some rare earth magnets. After super-gluing the magnets to the underside of the bases (I'm using the Warmachine style round lip bases; I started out with 4mm x 2mm magnets, but the next batch I ordered is gonna be 6mm x 2mm), I now have an easy-to-carry storage solution. This video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3TvgzBQtZ0 That looks like a great solution. I like the idea of using magnetic whiteboard in the bottom of an Army Transport style pluck foam sheet, berzerkermonkey, but those transport cases are always so pricey to grab. They're nice, for sure, but I could never get over the cases being more than $100 for ones of a decent size. nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 20:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah - here is a good deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-sh...=item2a3d9c9088 FYI, just found that Hurlbat has sheets of it (though they are temporarily out of stock), same size as Litko, for £1.25 a sheet. I had problems ordering multiple things of bases from their ebay store so they directed me to their webstore and I ran into it there.
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Feb 19, 2015 21:48
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 Really liking 10mm. It feels so productive to know you painted 500 goblins, wargs and warg riders in 3 weeks. I am just waiting on a that earlier mentioned 6mm basing kit to arrive so I can apply that and finish them properly. Anyone here cast their own figures? I am getting tempted to sculpt up some 10mm dollies and sculpt some armies that don't really have good 10mm lord of the rings substitutes out there. I've made enough molds before but not cast with metal, and metal seems like best thing to make dollies out of. Any good lead/pewter suppliers, or for that matter anyone you know of that makes or sells 10mm dollies? nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 05:01
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Ensign Expendable posted:Holy poo poo, that's a lot of guys. Doesn't it get boring painting hundreds of identical soldiers? Its not that bad. Far better than painting an army at 28mm. Last time I did that it took 3 months to do something like 24 archers, 24 infantry, 12 horse and some command. Granted, I was using them to teach myself NMM and improve painting techniques in general but still. The goblin infantry were a bit much. There were 288 of them and it would get a bit boring by the middle, then I would take a break, and then seem to finish that step for the second half at a quicker pace. I have to do the dwarves, elves and humans next and there are as many of them total as there were in those goblin infantry so it should be much better with those groups. Overall, though, it goes so fast and your color pallet is so limited it isn't bad. None of the steps take too long. The wargs went fast and were a lot of fun. They are only 4 colors: 1. base coat 2. dry brush 3. brown details (muzzle and ears) 4. white details (eyes and teeth) The goblins, while more involved, were not too bad: 1. flesh base 2. cloth and shield red base 3. all metal parts 4. leather base 5. wood base 6. shield highlight 7. black shield details and hair 8. quick pass for any obvious bad mistakes (blotch of red on a face for example) I did try doing a couple individual goblins with a black wash after I did the above 8 steps but I ended up not liking it. I think if I did two tone skin it would look great with a wash in between but I really didn't want to add in that extra layer of work on almost 300 models, even if two of them combined are the size of the nail on my pinky finger.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:58
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berzerkmonkey posted:I cast 6mm and 10mm in metal, but not anything I've sculpted. Well, vehicles excluded. I did commission Bob Naismith to sculpt some 10mm Egyptian Skeletons. I've got them at a caster right now to get masters done. Thanks, really appreciate anything you are able to share regarding this. I was planning on just doing some silicone molds and if its cost effective buying pewter ingots or something and melting them for small runs. The more info the better. Sorry about your elbow, hopefully it heals up well and quickly.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:38
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I'll get you more info later on when I can lift my right arm again.
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Medium Style posted:Thanks for pointing this out, this is neat. You can search specifically for a female dwarf holding a whip and wearing a hat. Finally. For just painting I am a fan of Figone: http://www.figone.fr/
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Feb 26, 2015 22:25
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 Finished the dwarves tonight, they only took a few hours. Felt like it went so much faster painting 84 dwarves than it did doing 288 goblins. Shown next to a 28mm mini for those of you that haven't really seen 10mm before. Somebody fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 27, 2015 05:15
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'm doing both now, so I can share from both sides of the process. The arm is feeling a bit better, so I'll try to get something together tomorrow, if I can. Hi berzerkmonkey, checking in to say I hope your elbow is doing ok and also just to say some of us are certainly interested on your experience in the whole mold making and casting process. I picked up this silicone kit yesterday, and am thinking I might make those 10mm dollies or spiders after I finish painting up these elves which are the last army I have to do for this Battle of Five Armies set before I move on to the heroes. Main question I have right now is best place to get and working with pewter/other metal for this purpose though I am sure there is more that will come up I am not aware of at this time. All my previous molding and casting experience has been with ultracal 30 and fiberglass.
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Mar 3, 2015 16:13
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I'm certainly interested in whatever you have to say, but I think the main things I know I am looking for more info on is: -Info on casting materials you like to use and why. Particularly for gravity casting, so like metals and resin or plastic when applicable. -----Where are some good places to get said casting materials. -What you like to make your molds out of -----Any tips on making the mold that a beginner is likely to screw up (ie. making sure to put in enough air vents in the right places, release agents) -Just general mold making and casting tips or experiences you may have. Not so much the basics of how to make one but things you have learned or points where someone is likely to screw the whole thing up. -If there are anythings to pay attention to when doing certain types of models or scales that tend to be a pain or just different for this process Thanks and glad to hear your arm is healing and that splint is coming off soon.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:Casting stuff... Awesome, thanks. Very useful. I didn't think of searching for pewter ingots by 92-8 before but now that I am it is making it easier to find. I will be doing some casting with the oommo 300 plastic for now I think. I just #1 like the idea of metal casting and #2 think it will be a better material for making things like dollies where I want to be able to move them around at least somewhat before doing a final sculpt on top of them. For the air vents, can you have too many or is there a point where you just don't need them? From some things I have been reading it seems like you need them on just about anything that sticks out. So, for the below just as an example, should you have, say, one vent per spear tip and per helmet point? 
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Mar 4, 2015 22:35
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Anyone know of a textured plastic siding with a texture like that in the below image? I'm not seeing anything like it in the plastruct catalog.
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Mar 5, 2015 00:37
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berzerkmonkey posted:You do know they sell sculpting dollies in 28mm right? Might save you some time. Also, a lot of sculptors just use wire at that scale. Hellbeard would be the expert on that. Yeah, I have used those 28mm ones before. These would be for 10mm. I don't now anyone that sells the so figure I need to make them.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:08
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berzerkmonkey posted:Oh yeah - sorry. I know the skeletons I just had done were just sculpted onto a wire armature. I sent an email to Bob and ask him for a photo of what he uses and any tips he's willing to give. I'll let you know when I hear back from him. Awesome, thanks.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:40
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Anyone here either have or have seen in person the Old Glory 10mm Saracens? I am trying to find a good line to use as a substitute for a 10mm Haradrim army for Lord of the Rings games. I thought it would be easy since there are a fair number of Arab-esque lines out there but frankly they either all seem to look kind of bad or, like the Old Glory ones I linked there, its really hard to tell how they look without painted samples. I don't know whats up with some of these miniature companies, the Old Glory site itself doesn't even have pictures of its own minis from that line and they aren't the only ones to be lacking pictures of their own products. Who just buys minis without looking at them first?
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Mar 10, 2015 15:28
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