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Is there a list somewhere of which colors from different manufacturers correspond to each other, like which generics can be substituted for which GW paints, for example? The only link in the OP that seems relevant to that is broken (the silicon-dragons one).
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Jan 8, 2012 08:10
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Dominion posted:There's one on dakkadakka (google for dakkadakka color chart) but its far from complete. If you have specific GW colors in mind people may be able to suggest alternatives. Nothing so specific, unfortunately; I'm more looking for a reference to have on hand than having a specific query in mind right now. I guess I can always come back to the thread with questions as I have them but I'm sure it'd be less annoying for both me and the thread if there was a resource somewhere. Thank you for the suggestion, I will look that up.
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Jan 8, 2012 08:54
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Possibly stupid question, is there a reason the "Foundation Black" paint that comes in this set doesn't appear anywhere in the individual product line?
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Jan 19, 2012 05:44
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Thank you both!
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Jan 19, 2012 05:53
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For background, I'm still very much in the "the 40K fluff is cool and I'd like a few of those plastic mans" zone. I've never: played a game, watched a game, or read a rulebook or codex. I just know what I think looks pretty. I want to paint some Space Wolves, and in fact I've already experimented with painting some of the generic Ultramarines from the painting starter set in SW colors instead. I'd post pictures for critique, but unfortunately I don't have a digital camera (or an analog one for that matter) that doesn't blow complete rear end.  Anyway, my question is: I've been using the 50/50 mix of Shadow Grey and Space Wolves Grey that GW recommends for basic Wolves armor colors, and it ends up looking pretty close to what I see on the boxes (if nowhere near as well highlighted) but I've noticed that a lot of people on the internet seem to prefer a darker and/or non-blue grey for their Wolves. For example, Hell Diver's Logan and bhsman's squad from the oath thread (both of which I thought were amazing, needless to say), but I've seen this coloring on random blogs as well. Is it supposed to be the Horus Heresy era colors or something? Is there some particular reason why so many people seem to go grey? Will I get laughed at for having blue Wolves? 
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Feb 2, 2012 06:04
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bhsman posted:-I could get right to work with any minis and not have to worry about A) mixing the paints and B) mixing them correctly for every model in the entire army. Just too much stress Yeah, this is really the big thing that would appeal to me about trying to go with pure Codex Grey, since I'm otherwise perfectly happy with the bluish color. You'd think that a paint that they loving call Space Wolves Grey wouldn't need to be mixed 50/50 to get the color that they expect you to paint Space Wolves in.  Today I bought a box of proper Space Wolves and some Codex Grey (which I was going to use for highlighting anyway) and I may do the first one in grey-grey just to see if I like it after all. If I don't, then I'll... shut up and use Simple Green, I guess.  Also, that link to eternityofwar causes my browser to pop up a page saying the site's on a malware list, what's up with that? 
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Feb 2, 2012 08:00
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bhsman posted:
Thanks for all your words! Yeah, I've been experimenting with highlights and washes on the last couple of minis I did. The results, particularly the highlighting, don't do my motor control much credit, but nonetheless they make things look a lot better already! Can't wait to dig into the new box. Maybe someday soon I'll borrow a digital camera long enough to take some photos for critique.
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Feb 2, 2012 08:53
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Jcam posted:On Tuesday night my small vial of superglue exploded while fixing a Crisis Suit, and somehow the entire stream or projectile glue went straight into my right eye. I frantically flushed my eye under the kitchen sink for an hour while my buddy Google'd "superglue in eye worst case scenario". I'm really happy you're okay (I assume), but is water really a good idea for that sort of contingency? I thought water/moisture was what caused cyanoacrylate to harden.
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Feb 3, 2012 18:28
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What the gently caress. I bet the person who called her fat and unsexy weighs like 300 pounds in real life. That's not even going into what an abhorrent reaction it would be even if it was a valid assessment. As for the mini itself, I'm wondering what the gently caress is specifically Ukrainian about the design and why it matters that it's Ukranian. I'm probably staring too long into the abyss here. 
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Feb 9, 2012 06:52
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Noob post incoming!  bhsman here are those pictures you ordered This is my first real "effort" plasticman attempt (after a beginner Ultramarine and a few experiments). It's 99% done. Sorry about the quality of the pictures and the lighting, I had to borrow the camera and shoot them in a hurry, so it was a beggars can't be choosers sort of situation. Christ I'm making excuses and I haven't even gotten to the paintjob itself yet   I'm still going to go over the shoulder decal with some red to make a facsimile of the Bran Redmaw company logo. I realize it's still too glossy. A matte coat would fix that, right? 
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Feb 20, 2012 22:19
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Dominion posted:Did you make a plasma pistol out of a plasma gun? It looks big. Mine? No, just the standard plasma pistol from the box. It's in the foreground of the two shots where you can clearly see it which might be why it looks huge. bhsman, the wolf tail (singular in this case) is where I tried to make it solid black fur with some grey highlights to add a bit of texture. I agree that it didn't come out the best. I'm also not super happy with the waist pelt but there I at least like the color scheme better. Any suggestions? I'll take your advice about the gold, and as far as the face, what I did was put on Tallarn Flesh and then wash it with black. At that point I thought it looked decent, if pretty heavily suntanned. What else should I do? Maybe put some flesh highlights back on top after the wash? Were you talking about anything besides the skin color?Thanks, everyone, since I seem to be on the right track I'll keep painting and also keep my eye out for a better camera.
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Feb 20, 2012 23:20
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What are good colors to highlight black with? I've heard some people say P3 Coal Black, others say Charadon Granite, and I'm wondering if Shadow Grey would work so I wouldn't have to buy a new pot of anything. vvv Yeah, I'll go ahead and experiment. Which I could have done anyway, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to do a 5 second idiot check in this thread. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 21:10
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Ularg posted:Hopefully something close to what is going on in your avatar. That seems like it would be too quick.
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Mar 24, 2012 06:32
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The store I've bought some GW products at is sort of a pleasantly odd case in that it looks like a nerd cave and I could totally imagine the guy who's usually behind the counter in a fedora and trenchcoat, but it's actually well-kept and I've gotten very civil, businesslike service every time I've been in there. They also give a pretty nice global discount on GW models.
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Mar 25, 2012 20:19
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PotatoManJack posted:I've recently started painting miniatures again after about a 20 year hiatus. Although it's going slowly, and I've got a lot to learn, I'm already addicted to it and have easily spent 6-7 hours in the last couple of days working on my first 'test' Space Marine. You're the guy I had a short exchange with in the other thread, right? As someone who's not too far beyond you yet himself, that's looking good for a first test model (well, in 20 years). Don't worry about having decided to freelance your own Space Marine paint scheme; you're right that there are a lot of notable named Chapters but there is also deliberately enough room in the universe for hundreds (if not thousands?) of fan Astartes chapters. If that were my model, my own next step would be to experiment with highlighting a bit. What in particular don't you like about the gun (bolter  )? The backpack doesn't need that much more work for it to pass muster in my eyes, just the overall highlighting treatment and, if you wanted, a different color for the little skull--silver would work well with the scheme you've got going on there. I like that there's already some shading/shadowing going on with the recesses and the vents.
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Mar 26, 2012 17:31
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PotatoManJack posted:Thanks for the feedback. When you say to experiment about highlighting, do you mean lighter shades on areas that would in theory have more light hitting them than others? What I meant by highlighting is edge or line highlighting, that is putting thin lines of a slightly lighter or complimentary color along the edges of armor plates, corners, raised portions, etc. So technically yeah, edges that catch the light, but I just think of it in terms of 'edges' rather than try to run raycasting in my head or anything. You can see it in e.g. this picture from up the thread of Skarsnik's blood angels--look at the elbow and the boot for example. Or here is a more amateurish example of one of my own models (you can see that I'm no better than you at taking pictures).The metal of your dude's bolter didn't look too shiny to me but there are a lot of options for making it dingier, applying heavier washes, etc. I'm still at the point where I do basic metal gun parts by painting them Chainmail, washing them with Badab Black and pretty much calling it good.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:04
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Any tips for using Testors Dullcote over acrylics without loving anything up? Someone recommended it a ways back in this thread and it seemed to work fine on my first test model but on the second run I experienced some smudging and wrinkling of the paint. Areas of white around red details were taking on a pinkish hue, another area had ripples form in the main coat of paint and some edge highlights smudge off, etc. The color paints are all GW and I put a coat of clear acrylic gloss on before the Dullcote. Also, it's brush-on Dullcote, if that matters. I know a lot of people swear by the spray stuff but being able to brush it on is a lot more convenient for me... I can figure out how to set up a spray operation if that's what's needed though.
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Mar 27, 2012 19:36
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Dominion posted:The pinking can happen if the paint isn't completely dry before you varnish. I usually let things dry overnight before spraying just to be safe. I didn't notice the pinking before the dullcote went on (i.e., when it was just gloss) and they definitely dried overnight before the two coats, though I'll remember to keep this tip in mind for the future. Any other suggestions?
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Mar 27, 2012 19:44
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bhsman posted:Ceramite White goes a long way towards making white easier to paint That reminds me, this is the gospel truth. This weekend I finally got to try out some of the new foundation (or "base" or whatever) paints and whoever said that everyone should pick up some ceramite white and mephiston red wasn't loving kidding. Dear God it's so much more user friendly.
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Apr 17, 2012 19:21
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Takkaryx posted:
Now that you've said that I can't not see 
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Apr 18, 2012 07:11
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Are the Reaper Bones models bad for that? This is the first I can remember having heard anything negative about them at all.
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Apr 27, 2012 19:57
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bhsman posted:I decided to go ahead and do it anyways while writing a description; by the end of this the thread will have an awesome guide on how to paint lovely tabletop models! Oh hey there. If it's not much extra work for you, that'd be great! I'll be honest, since finishing my one box of Space Wolves I've been more durdling around with other models than working on any more Wolves, but stuff like that for any system or army is neat to see!And I'm really touched that you thought of me after all this time and given my near-lurker status in these threads. 
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May 22, 2012 03:57
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A long time back there were some posts about primer staying tacky on Reaper Bones figures, and the consensus seemed to be that it must have been something wrong with the primer itself. Well, yesterday I primed a Bones werewolf at exactly the same time and with the same can as some GW plastics. Now 24 hours later the werewolf is still tacky while the GW stuff is fine and fully dried. I have no idea why this is, but there's my anecdote, and if anyone has suggestions I'd be interested.
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May 29, 2012 03:01
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CyberLord XP posted:
Man, I love model trains, but the context of this thread (that is, in this forum) means it's more about models that are used for playing games, and not trains, airplanes, rockets, or whatever, right? Maybe a model train thread would go better in GBS or I don't know where else.
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Jul 8, 2012 17:32
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krushgroove posted:That is loving shocking. Does QA...just not exist there? Is shocking really the term for something that seems like it should be rather unsurprising by this point?
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Jul 25, 2012 11:16
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jadebullet posted:Cross posting from the oath thread. Any particular reason why you decided to use a bunch of Space Wolf bits in various locations? Don't get me wrong, I'm not criticizing AT ALL--quite the contrary--I just am always curious what sparks the inspiration for people to kitbash like this. The models look great to me, in case that wasn't obvious!
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Jul 26, 2012 23:12
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Pyrolocutus posted:Ceramite White and Celestra Grey with Drakenhof Blue would achieve the effect nicely Disclaimer: All I said was that starting with the white and gray and washing/glazing blue would be how I would go about experimenting with it. I made no guarantees about "nicely."
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Aug 3, 2012 04:45
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The Saddest Robot posted:I started weathering/rusting/battledamaging my devilfish. I may have overdone it. That's an excellent job of representing heavy rust, but yeah, it looks to me like it's been in a scrapyard for a few years at this point.
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Aug 7, 2012 20:07
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Here's a quick question, what do you guys do to make sure your painted models are clean of dust/particles before you varnish them? I haven't had a problem with space marines, but now I'm doing a warpwolf where it's more noticeable and I've already brushed off a few of the easier-to-reach places. I was thinking of using a Q-tip for the rest. Is that a bad idea? Should I use a bit of water or anything else? I know that acrylic paints aren't supposed to come off with water once they're fully dry but I don't want to risk messing this up even a little at this point.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:19
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Lungboy posted:Cross-posting a question from the Malifaux thread: I had no idea what a Malifaux Silurid looks like so I GISed it. Assuming this is the sort of thing you're dealing with, it looks like there's still plenty of room for highlighting and shading, plus you can do what this guy did and do some sort of reptilan or amphibian inspired skin patterns on it.
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Aug 8, 2012 23:48
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JerryLee posted:Here's a quick question, what do you guys do to make sure your painted models are clean of dust/particles before you varnish them? I haven't had a problem with space marines, but now I'm doing a warpwolf where it's more noticeable and I've already brushed off a few of the easier-to-reach places. I was thinking of using a Q-tip for the rest. Is that a bad idea? Should I use a bit of water or anything else? I know that acrylic paints aren't supposed to come off with water once they're fully dry but I don't want to risk messing this up even a little at this point. Reposing this in case anyone has any input before I just go ahead and take a cotton swab to it. If the question is silly and/or no one can help me, sorry for spamming the thread.
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Aug 9, 2012 01:41
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Dominion posted:I use a big soft makeup brush that I stole from my girlfriend. Unfortunately, I haven't been in an intimate relationship with a woman for many years. And none of the men are that feminine.  Thanks anyway, I'll just go with the dry Q-tip plan. Or a damp one, as the case turns out. vvvv Yeah, I might want to get a soft brush and keep it for that, but currently the best candidate some has some tiny amount of paint discoloration on the bristles and I wouldn't want to take the chance of it ending up like an extremely light drybrushing effect. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 9, 2012 |
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Aug 9, 2012 02:19
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Dominion posted:Or go to CVS and pay a few dollars for a makeup brush. I was even at a CVS earlier today but I wasn't wise enough at that time.  Thanks for the tip!
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Aug 9, 2012 02:55
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Confirming that Bones are awesome and I want more and more of them. Granted I'm still not interested in 99% of the sculpts (what am I going to do with a dwarf cleric?) but since Reaper doesn't come to me personally asking which models they should Bones-ify first, I'll settle for just having a ginormous catalog to choose from.
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Aug 14, 2012 21:41
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Pale gold for metallic, maybe? Also, this may seem like a joke, but how about pastel colors? They remind me of Easter and therefore of Spring. I guess sky blue and lilac are already taking you in that direction. Good luck with that, it sounds really neat.
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Sep 21, 2012 17:10
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"Fix up" the blue, he says. *looks at own models, flips over painting table*
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Oct 12, 2012 19:20
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I hadn't ever thought of using dots of white on grey lines for highlighting black, but that looks really good and I think I'll give it a try when I get to my Ravenwing. Separate question for this thread, how low a temperature can you safely spray can stuff at without it getting futzed up, in folks' experience? Like, the Dullcote can recommends "room temperature (70 F)" or something like that, but how low can it get before you risk ruining something? Same with primer--I guess it probably varies a little by brand, but so far I usually use Rustoleum primer, if that means anything to anyone. We're getting into the cold times here in Kansas City and I don't have a great way to spray indoors so this is becoming relevant
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Oct 20, 2012 05:33
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So say I wanted to try out this Series 7 thing, mostly to see if it helps me suck less at details, which model(s) exactly should I get at first? Just googling for "Winsor & Newton Series 7" brings up a still-bewildering array of sizes and other options, apparently. Please explain as though you were talking to a moderately complete idiot. 
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Oct 21, 2012 07:01
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This might be a dumb question but are plastic sprues (GW, if it makes a difference) something I can put in the recycling bin, or are they the wrong kind of plastic? I know scrap sprue has its uses but after assembling DV I have way more empty sprue than I can see ever needing.
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Oct 26, 2012 21:35
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FallenSystm posted:Just decided to start up this addictive hobby. I have a couple questions before I dig to far into this. I'm less than a year in and fairly casual compared to many, but I feel like I can help answer your questions. 1) If it's anything like 40K, yes, it's completely normal for legs (and torsos) to be the limiting factor, with shitloads of arm, weapon and/or head bits left over. 2) I haven't actually tried craft paints compared to miniature/modeling paints but my perception is that people are pretty critical of their quality for modeling. I can say for sure that compared to what you will be spending on plastic/resin, some good miniature paints are a drop in the bucket price-wise. You really don't need insanely diverse paint sets if you are just painting your first troops for the tabletop, and the little pots/bottles that are $3.xx will last for 30 times their price in dollars on miniatures. So there's really no reason to cheap out. Though if you are willing to learn how to use dropper bottles, I'm a real fan of Reaper paints over Citadel, both to save yourself a few pennies and to avoid giving GW money anyplace you don't absolutely have to. Echoing the recommendation to spray prime your models, but you can just use hardware store primer for that; I haven't priced Army Painter primer but I imagine it probably has a markup due to being a 'hobby product' and the normal $4 a can stuff works just fine, at least for some brands (I use Rustoleum). JerryLee fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 05:38
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