|
dishwasherlove posted:Those blue foam cheapass ebay airbrushes are the bomb. I rarely use my Sotar as I mostly just undercoat with my airbrush and they do the job fine. You can treat them like poo poo, dissemble them, drop their bits off the table and they just keep trucking. Do you happen to mean something like this? My brother got me a Sotar for Christmas, and I think I want a second brush to both learn and later do varnishing with. Thanks.
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2013 10:17
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 23:40 |
|
|
Slimnoid posted:If you want to spend a little more, you can try picking this one up. It comes with various needle sizes and an extra hose, which is never a bad thing to have. That one looks great. I'll report back once it arrives, if anyone's interested. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2013 19:51
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah, but people use it to prime stuff too. It's not great for minis but it works fine for terrain. Why do you think Gesso isn't great for minis? I've done a couple test models that came out with the details intact to my eye. I haven't painted them yet, though, so I could understand if some issues will arise down the line. I prefer it to spraying because I don't have great ventilation for the fumes of spray primer.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2014 22:08
|
|
|
moths posted:
Everything looks really good! The signs came out really well. If you don't mind me asking, which Basius did you use for these models?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2014 02:55
|
|
|
I'm using this primer shot through an airbrush on some pewter warmachine pikemen. I'm noticing that it's easier to chip off than the rattlecan I used on a different pewter unit. Is this expected? I plan to varnish everything with Future and then Dullcote, but I wanted to know if I'm setting myself up for failure. If this is a bad primer to be spraying, can you all suggest an alternative for use with an airbrush? I like everything else about it; cost, smell, detail, ease of application.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2014 07:19
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:Vallejo Surface Primer (fine acrylic paint in general) isn't as sturdy on metal models as rattle can primer (personally I still use rattle primer on metal models, it's just easier) but once you get your paint coats down and a gloss coat and then a matte coat the entire thing will be rock solid unless you constantly bang your metal models together or drop them on hard surfaces. Try to avoid handling the primered models with your bare hands; VSP doesn't get a super great grip on those sharp points and edges and your natural hand sweat and oils doesn't help. You can also do primer > base coat > gloss > layers (finish painting) > gloss > matte. I did this with a metal Terminator Chaplain and that thing is bulletproof now. If you do this you should let the first gloss coat completely cure overnight before you move on. I tried to rush a paint job over "dry" Future once and it didn't end well. Awesome, thanks for the advice. Will painting over future still give the layer a chance to bite? Or does the paint sort of bead like it does on a naked metal mini?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
Simple green: safe for stripping resin (specifically privateer press colossal)?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Finally! My endless proselytization is starting to pay off. Woah, from cursory research it seems to work so well because it's basically a gel of soap and Lye. Seems a bit heavy duty to me, at least for anything besides white metal.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2014 05:50
|
|
|
Ysera posted:Thanks for looking! Any photo of minis that's lit evenly with a well deployed narrow depth of field is way ahead of the game. Looking great! Excellently executed all around; I especially like the gem effect on the stones UA!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2014 05:40
|
|
|
I haven't had a chance to try it, but there's a technique floating around for airbrush sealing that uses Future floor polish and Testor's Dullcote. This is one video showing this process. Hopefully those with more experience can confirm that it's a good idea.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2014 06:03
|
|
|
SRM posted:How is this really any different from just using Testors gloss coat before the Dullcote? That's what I do, and my models seldom chip. One coat of gloss, two of dullcote, and I'm done. Eh, no strong feelings from me. I just know I don't like the fumes of rattle cans if I can avoid them and the two components are relatively cheap if you already have an airbrush.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2014 06:43
|
|
|
I have a problem with my airbrush compressor. I was given this compressor as a gift. It's worked fine for maybe 3-4 hours over a handful of short sessions. Now, there's a persistent leak from the screw in the bottom of the tank. Here's the screw, taken all the way out.  It has a hole all the way though that is open to the air.  I'm guessing that I lost a plug or O-ring, but I can't find it anywhere, and the manual on the manufacturers website doesn't have a part list or a link to a replacement available for purchase. I can't even find another picture of the screw; I'm probably not searching the right name (pressure release screw, etc). Any idea what part I'm missing and how to replace it, or otherwise get back up and running? Also, as the manual was incredibly short, how am I supposed to release pressure when I'm finished? Is unscrewing the screw on the bottom of the tank incorrect?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2014 05:32
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:If you call Paasche they might have a replacement part you can buy, if not any small screw with a rubber o-ring washer that fits should work. That screw is for draining the excess moisture out of your air tank which you should do somewhat frequently. My TC-20T has a similar screw but it doesn't have a hole or a valve or anything on it. It's just a screw with a very small thread shaft that is purely for blocking the drain opening. It's for draining water? I thought water ended up, for the most part, in the moisture trap. I could have sworn it's supposed to dump the tank if it hits too high a pressure; that's what keeps me from simply replacing the screw. If I'm missing an O-ring, then it's one that needs to cover the entire hole, higher up on the screw, making it much bigger than I would have anticipated. It's frustrating, because even my cheap Chinese airbrush comes with an exploded diagram of all the parts/gaskets and this ostensibly higher end compressor does not. And on removing the hose to drain the tank, I already have to use thread tape to prevent leaks, and I don't want to have to replace it every time. Should I just push in the button on the bottom of the moisture trap, I guess?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2014 07:28
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:[Great airbrush advice] Thanks for the insight. I don't think I've built up enough water yet but I guarantee you saved me a ton of pain down the line. Appreciate it. Danoss posted:Ball valves are also useful. You could put one between the regulator and the pressure gauge, or you could replace the tank drain with a simple setup like this person has here. I might throw one on my regulator actually, it's a drat sight more convenient than the standard option. That's awesome, I think I'll just try to put that together. Any idea what size screw fits the tank normally (I'll probably just go to a hardware store to check the fit manually)?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
Danoss posted:Having a quick look, it appears to be a 1/4" BSP thread. Matching the thread in-store is always the best way to be 100% sure (yours might be NPT instead of BSP for example). Thanks for checking. I took my screw with me to OSH and actually cooked up something that works but is kind of wonky looking. I have a 1/8'' elbow that leads out under the tank, where I have a join that steps it up from 1/8'' to a 1/4'' ball valve (which was the smallest ball valve they had; I tried a needle valve in 1/8'' first that just leaked), leading to a vinyl hose. With a fair amount of thread tape, the whole thing is airtight, and I can now purge the entire tank quite quickly and directly into the sink if need be. Can post pictures if anyone's interested. Appreciate the advice. parabolic fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jun 16, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2014 17:43
|
|
|
Those lenses are awesome, great work. Honestly really well done. I like the vegetation and skulls to break it up a bit.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2014 17:18
|
|
|
Tuxedo Jack posted:
Great job, they look amazing. Tanks all day every day.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2014 23:16
|
|
|
Danoss posted:If you do give this stuff a try, grab some nitrile gloves if you're putting your hands in this stuff. Eye and respiratory protection would be useful too. While it's in a weaker state, Lye is what one might use to dissolve a body, so PPE is definitely advised.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2014 01:58
|
|
|
Thanks for the link, it's inspiring me to up my airbrush game.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2014 17:14
|
|
|
I know a number of people have suggested Windex. And I have had similar problems with beading at levels people have suggested as a good amount of thinning. Maybe I have the wrong PSI or a crappy primer.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
Does anyone have recommendations for stripping X-wing ships? I have a Lambda and a Slave 1 that I soaked for 3 days in simple green and scrubbed with a toothbrush; it didn't take anything but a little of the wash off. Any idea what else is safe for this specific plastic?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2015 06:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 23:40 |
|
|
Is Future a suitable gloss varnish to use before an oil wash? Never done it before, but want to weather some robits and spaceships.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2015 03:07
|
|