Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Hello thread. I'm at a point where my '05 Infiniti G35 needs more money in repairs than it's worth, so I'm looking at a replacement. To use the OP template:

Proposed Budget: under $25k
New or Used: used
Body Style: sedan or 4-door hatchback
How will you be using the car?: daily driver / commuter (mix of city and highway driving in Austin, TX)
Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): yes
What aspects are most important to you?
  • plenty of interior room for the driver (I'm 6'4" / 205lbs, so mostly leg and headroom)
  • decent gas mileage, say 20 city / 30 hwy or better
  • ability to sell for about $12-15k in about two years
  • reasonable maintenance costs

I have it generally narrowed down to 2014/2015 editions of the Audi A4, BMW 320i or 328i, Lexus IS250 or CT 200h, and MB C300. I've yet to test drive any of these, so I may end up hating them all :downs: Since German cars and "reasonable maintenance costs" don't really belong in the same sentence, I'll be looking for cars that have at least 1 year left on the mfg warranty. I've pretty much written off Infiniti (because the newer models feel cramped) and Acura (I just couldn't find a model that looked interesting).

The most sensible choice of the bunch is probably one of the Lexuses. The potential resale value of the CT200h is (in my opinion) questionable, which probably points to the IS as the presumptive winner. Aesthetically speaking, I'd prefer the Germans, but I've also heard enough horror stories about how much their repair costs. But if I can find a BMW with 2 years left on the warranty, I'd consider it.

So, am I missing anything obvious, or is the wishlist and price point too optimistic?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

Thermopyle posted:

If it makes a difference to you, nowadays you can often get a non-luxury-car brand with more gizmos then you'd get on the luxury car brand at that price range...so it depends on if you're more interested in the luxury prestige or the gizmos when you answer "yes" to "Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?".

I suppose the question from the OP was the best catch-all, but it's not so much the gizmos or prestige as it is the fit and finish of the car. I think those still match up best with luxury brands. My 12-yo car still feels better than many recent Toyotas and Nissans I've driven. Maybe I just drove crappy ones? I've certainly babied my G35, and if it weren't for the ABS pump/controller crapping the bed, I'd probably drive it for a good while longer. The cabin is spacious, layout is a bit old-fashioned but uncluttered, and I went a good 100k miles before I started noticing some (still minor) squeaks and rattles.

I'm happy to entertain non-luxury brands, if you can think of something that would be along those lines. Strictly speaking about the tech/gizmos: power seat(s), Bluetooth, AUX input, and a USB charging port are top priorities, with SiriusXM bringing up the rear. And you're right: other than the power seats, I've seen those features in econobox rentals these days.


H110Hawk posted:

This reads as you want to spend $10,000 to own a car for two years. What you want is a lease with something that caps your "wear and tear" cleaning costs. $416/month in lease gets you a hell of a brand new luxury car.

https://www.bmwusa.com/special-offers.html for example, that is advertised so the deal can only get better from there.

You're correct, leasing did come up as an idea too. While I haven't written it off, it has two strikes against it:

1) I live in TX, where the lease gets taxed the full vehicle purchase price (and not the lease portion of it), and
2) More importantly: there's a nonzero possibility I'll be moving out of the country in a couple of years. While I can negotiate a lease length to be something other than the typical 36/39-month term, I just don't like the idea of being "under contract" if I have to up and move my rear end to Germany. I feel that selling a car would be easier.

So yes, that's worth looking into as well. Just somehow... riskier?

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
OK, you've convinced me to re-examine the lease possibility. That certainly opens up more possibilities!

IRQ posted:

Lease something the manufacturers are desperate to move that will be ok for the first 2 years of its doomed life but they'll cut you a nice deal on. How do you feel about Fiat 500s?

Am I crazy in thinking that'll be the case with the BMW i3, esp. once the shine is off the '17 model in a month or two? That one was an out-there candidate (because a guy I know has it and raves about it) that definitely doesn't fit in with the rest of my list and made no sense as a used car purchase. But as a lease... maybe?


Phone posted:

Take a look at a used ES300h from Carmax. Seems to check off most of your boxes (and I'm sure that it'll completely ruin you going forward because it can have ventilated seats).

Will do. I seem to remember writing them off because they were above my $25k price point, but I'll take another look.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Hi all. I'm the guy who wanted to hedge buying/leasing a car against a possible move overseas in a couple of years. In an update that will interest precisely nobody, the initial diagnosis:

Trabant posted:

I've certainly babied my G35, and if it weren't for the ABS pump/controller crapping the bed, I'd probably drive it for a good while longer.

has been proven wrong. The problem was neither the pump ($2,200 to replace) nor the controller ($2,400), but a bad relay between the two ($570). That's -- thankfully -- much less than the car is worth! Lesson: if you have a mechanic who'll spend an extra hour on diagnosing the issue, they can save you a poo poo-ton of hassle and money.

Well, that's my story, please like and subscribe.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply