AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

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Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Slo-Tek posted:

If you live within 6 miles of work, maybe.

Or not paying for electricity.

Wasabi the J posted:

Proposed Budget: $8,000
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Wagon is ideal, otherwise hatch or sedan
How will you be using the car?: I have a wife and two dogs, and constantly help everyone with driving errands, so five-ish passengers is common; we also road trip and car camp. I enjoy driving, even commuting, but my family cannot all drive manual.
What aspects are most important to you? Cost of maintenance is a huge factor, although most modern-ish cars seem to be expensive in every aspect of that; my father-in-law is a die-hard Toyota fan and is a service writer for them, so Toyota repairs can be considerably cheaper (I don't have a personal mechanic or shop and would love to find one that's easier to work with); I would like to drive something from this century; I live in Las Vegas.

This car http://cargur.us/8Gs_P caught my eye, but I don't know poo poo about Mazda's long-term reliability and repair costs, nor do I know what things are common "look-out" items. Time is NOT a factor, we will not be buying until the holidays when I return from deployment.

For every wagon, there are tens of thousands of minivans out there. I'd take a long hard look at Toyota Sienna if I were you.

# ¿ May 16, 2016 21:53

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 12:05

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

I though that regular hybrid Prius was enough to enjoy the HOV lane? I'm not in California and my info may be outdated, sorry

# ¿ May 17, 2016 03:33

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Ranger drives like a truck, and not a good one at that, so it's going to loving suck for anything other than carrying furniture/yard supplies. I'd suggest getting a sensible small car and just renting a truck/van when you need to move bulky objects. And if you suddenly need to replace your roof and need an actual ton of shingles, hardware stores will deliver for a small fee.

You can have a turn of the century Camry/Accord for a couple of grand. Don't limit yourself to a specific type of vehicle, like a wagon, because that leaves 95% of used vehicles off the table. Even a lovely Honda Civic can carry 500lbs of stuff, assuming it's evenly distributed. Get roof racks for carrying ladders, lumber, Christmas trees.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 13:59 on May 25, 2016

# ¿ May 25, 2016 13:51

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Blackchamber posted:

Reading some other online car buying guides I emailed all the Mazda and Honda dealers with exactly what I was looking for, allowing for the closest match in options, and for an out the door price.

Supposed to cut out all the bullshit so I can just compare prices and make a purchase.

It does not. I'm glad I made a dummy email account for this.

The Rizzo method, mentioned in online buying guides, only works on new inventory.

If you are shopping new, use this https://amexnetwork.truecar.com/main.html
Link it to that same dummy email account and list a fake phone number, lest you want a ton of spam. It collects offers from 3 closest dealerships. You can game the system by changing your zipcode to a more rural area and driving further to get your car. If you're in a market for a leftover, you're gonna get offers below invoice almost immediately.

Last time I used it, the same dealership sent me 3 emails, each with slightly lower price. They really wanted to get rid of that truck, I guess.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 23:58 on May 25, 2016

# ¿ May 25, 2016 23:54

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

So you have a car, a bike and your commute will be a mile away? And you plan to buy a brand new truck so you can actually use it once? It's not my money, but have fun lighting it on fire. The depreciation you'll be eating in the first year is enough to ship all your belongings and fly across country first class.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 06:39 on May 26, 2016

# ¿ May 26, 2016 06:37

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

IRQ posted:

Best car for going to law school is probably a used Fiat 500.

No, it's nearly a decade old European sports/luxury car, that is only 10% of its initial price. You'd be a fool not to buy it.

# ¿ May 26, 2016 14:46

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Stacular posted:

Recommend me a car!

Budget: Ideally I'm looking to spend $15,000 and up to $20,000 for the right car or financing option. I'm looking to put about $5000 down and I've got great credit. I'm about to finish my last year of anesthesiology fellowship/residency so my earning potential is about to quintuple in one year. I'd prefer to keep the cost down and finance with low interest or plan on paying it off in full when I start making non-resident Doctor money.

I drove a 1998 Chevy Metro for the last 14 years until it was smashed to oblivion by another driver going 3ish MPH. I fell in love with small, fuel efficient cars. I'm looking for a small car that's relatively efficient. I have two kids so back seats are essential (e.g no Smart cars). I'll be doing primarily city driving, commuting 10-15 miles total per day. I'm looking at Fiestas, Yaris, Versa Notes, etc. but open to a number of options. I take the occasional long road trip so reliability would be nice. In an ideal world, I'll buy a car in Seattle to drive for the next month before moving to Nashville, I'd love to drive it across country but I'm not married to that idea if it's financially absurd.

It's there a reason Honda Fit or Ford Focus are not on that list? Are you looking new or used?

# ¿ May 26, 2016 18:43

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Throatwarbler posted:

Eh I dunno a manual trans Mazda3 hatch is a better vehicle in every respect, has better rated fuel economy and according to Truecar is about the same price out the door as a MT Fit. The Fit is a good car but not at the prices Honda wants for it.

Mazda 3's hatch design sucks donkey nuts. The opening is irregular and narrow, so strollers have to go in at an angle. The cx3 I drove at the auto show has exact same problem. Hatch opening designed for looks, not practicality. Honda Fit rear doors and hatch have a square opening, which makers transporting kids and accessories much more effortless. Also, Fit has more headroom space, not sure if that's important.

Also, according to AI, there is an excessive rust issue, not sure how prevalent.

# ¿ May 26, 2016 22:35

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Turkeybone posted:

Thanks for this advice! Yes I can definitely just keep the car parked at work and give the alternate commuting a shot.. I'll have to move it once a week for alternate side parking anyway. I haven't had the timing belt done, so I'll factor that into the decision making (as well as the realization that I may not be on top of general car maintenance duties as I should be, and should factor that cost in as well).

what's that scrap talk? I'll come get it in 4-6 hours, if you don't want it. Say the word

But seriously, if you want to get rid of it, it's a $2,000 worth of car that will sell itself. You can even ask more and lower the price over time, but 2k is what it's worth in NYC.

# ¿ May 30, 2016 00:03

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

nm posted:

Citation needed.

The small transit connect gets a mixed 25 mpg (small engine) and the big transit is 16.

In my experience transit connect will get 25mpg downhill under perfect wind conditions. It's usually close to 20. The difference between those 2 vans are 10 grand. And one has twice the cargo capacity. Sprinter is even more expensive. How much weight and volume will you be transporting?

# ¿ May 30, 2016 23:49

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

I AM BRAWW posted:

This seems really good from Scion's part thought.

84/200,000 Platinum $3,709.00

Same from AAA cost me $109/year in the US. Up to 100 mile free tow, and about 5 calls to unlock doors and bring you some gas when you run out.

Also, please go test drive the 86 back to back with Mustang and Miata. Those are all in the your price segment and fit the description. Your opinion may change, and we can use your experience to fine tune the suggestions. Don't finance a used out of warranty BMW unless you enjoy setting money on fire.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2016 16:18

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Go to edmunds.com and do a quick comparison between all miss size sedans such as Camry, Fusion, Mazda6, Altima etc. They're all in your budget and will gladly accommodate your height and weight. You can look at trim packages separately, but right now the best thing to do is dedicate a Saturday, and test drive as many add possible. Don't commit to anything at the dealer, don't leave your phone number. You'll do the actual shopping later via many tools available online and here.

Also, driving a new car is a good way to have an idea of how used one should handle itself. If you decide to buy used/CPO. Good luck. Report back

# ¿ Jun 3, 2016 21:09

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Blackchamber posted:

Opinions on a price: Mazda 3 itouring with the popular equipment package. $21,632 not including taxes. It's 200 more than Edmund's true market value and true car's average but I'm not sure how realistic those metrics are.

You can just offer less and see what the seller says.

# ¿ Jun 4, 2016 20:19

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

When I first discovered snow tires, I bought a set for my new truck before huge snowstorm hit. Driving around people stuck in ditches was a magical experience

# ¿ Jun 12, 2016 17:50

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Does anyone have personal experience with high mileage mid 2000's Chrysler minivans? They're pretty cheap and I'm looking to get one to use as parts hauler. Mostly curious as to how well drivetrain components hold up. Thanks

This is a pretty standart price in my area
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5652047934.html

# ¿ Jun 26, 2016 02:05

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Great advise, thank you. I'm dismissing AWD and tow hitches, because gently caress Chrysler transmissions.

Is 2008 a new chassis or just a face lift?

# ¿ Jun 26, 2016 02:44

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

I haggle at those "no haggle" bullshit places and get deals. While their sale price is set in figurative stone, your trade in can be valued for anything under the sun.

Oh, you're asking 14k for the car that worth 12k on a good day? How about you pay me 3k more for that trade in. No? I guess another dealership may be more interested in selling a car today, on December 31st. Yeah, I'll wait for the manager.

I've done this at CarMax and Enterprise. But if you're no stranger to haggle, better deals are available in other places. I've only gone to those two because I buy outfitted work vans, and availability is not always a thing.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2016 21:44

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Why in the gently caress would anyone do that. True bottom cost of a negotiated commodity is all that matters. By comparing discounted price to a sticker price, you fool yourself into thinking that you're getting a deal. It's part of a mental game dealerships play, don't play along.

# ¿ Jun 28, 2016 22:36

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

nm posted:

If it like the Prius battery somewhere around 300k mi or 10+ years.
Also, the battery replacements are cheaper than you think. If the battery dies, I'd replace it before selling, but I wouldn't replace the battery before selling unless it dies, if that is what you're asking.

In my anecdotal experience, Prius batteries start to degrade after 200k, some faster than others. You can get away by replacing sections, not entire thing. I've seen it done for under $800.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 06:40

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Let me narrow it down:

quote:

You want to buy a used Ford Focus with either the Zetec or Duratech engine.

You want a Ford Focus made after 2004 with a z in the trim/name, like a zx5.

To lessen the �risk� of buying a used car, I suggest doing at least one of the following:
- Taking the car to an independent mechanic to be checked out

Civic/Corolla/Sentra/Elantra of that vintage and price range are also good cars, all that really depends on what you find. Don't be scared of high miles cars with full service records. Some people really do commute 100+ miles/day and change their fluids/consumables at proper intervals. Just make sure a trusted mechanic gives you thumbs ups first.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Aug 10, 2016

# ¿ Aug 10, 2016 23:22

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Buy the most expensive bright-colored 2 door convertible thing with a German badge. Status symbol cars are easy... Think, what would YOU be impressed by? Start there

# ¿ Aug 22, 2016 22:08

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Hostile V posted:

I'm in need of a new car because my Lexus RX 330 is getting on thirteen years and it's had a few costly repairs that have made me lean towards getting a newer car. I'm planning on getting a used car and trading my Lexus in to a dealership so proposed budget is around $8000 (including some savings and slightly optimistic hopes for the trade). I like the kind of car I drive now; I'm a bit of a big guy and I have issues getting in and out of smaller cars. A sedan would be the cheaper option but I know I'd have trouble getting in and out comfortably. I currently have to commute around 15 miles to work (30 there and back) and would just use the car to get to work and run errands. A four door model with some trunk space would be ideal. I live in New Jersey and reliability, MPG and cost/maintenance are most important to me; sometimes we get snow and sometimes I can't get out of going to work, something with four wheel drive would be ideal. In a pinch, MPG could slide, I'd rather not have to worry as much about repairs and maintenance.

I was leaning sort of towards the Scion XB models up until I found out they're a discontinued line and I'm sort of leery about getting one because of that fact, that's the kind of car I'm looking for, a SUVish vehicle. Any suggestions?

No matter how tall/fat/conjoined twin you are, size of the car does not directly correlate to usable interior space. Auto manufacturers design around all typed of drivers. If there is something you like, go sit inside of it. Chances are, you'll be fine in 90% of cars/trucks.

Dealer will give you pennies on a dollar when they take your car as "trade in". Sell it private party. Unless you're a very savvy negotiator and have done your homework. And still be prepared to lose money.

Can you not bend your knees? Do you need a tall midsize vehicle? If you can get in a sedan, please do. They are most common and very accommodating. Also, a Prius

# ¿ Aug 29, 2016 00:14

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

How many of those good trade in prices were in conjunction with purchase of a new vehicle? Dealer is aiming to make certain amount of money from the sale, they factor your trade value into that. I don't know what everyone's individual case was, but dealers don't usually lose in the exchange. If the car you're buying is a screaming deal under invoice, there is no way in hell they will offer you anything resembling a fair value.

# ¿ Aug 29, 2016 23:32

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

JnnyThndrs posted:

With all due respect to IOC, I would probably(depending greatly on visual condition) go with the newer, higher-mileage example.

Why?

Because a vehicle that new, with that many miles, is most likely a highway driven commuter, and highway driving is generally the best thing for a vehicle. All operating temps are always up there, meaning any accumulation of moisture in fluids has the best chance of evaporating away, the brakes don't get used as much, the transmission doesn't shift that much, the engine just thrums away in a tall gear at lowish RPMS.

Meanwhile, older, low-mileage vehicles tend to be driven by the proverbial little old lady to church once a week, and that's the worst thing you can do to a car(outside of a steady regimen of drag racing and autocross . Occasional short trips don't get the fluids warm enough, the engine oil runs off of cylinder walls, brake rotors rust, seals harden in one position, etc. And because 'it's never driven', scheduled service can be nonexistent or rare.

Now these days it -really- shouldn't matter much in the case of a 1-4 year-old car, materials are far better than they are even 10-15 years ago and both vehicles should be fine. But when you get up to ten-fifteen year-old cars, the 'cream puff' that has very low miles will often have a host of trouble once it's regularly driven again. If you're planning on restoring the vehicle, great, who cares? But if it's a driver, a somewhat newer, higher-mileage vehicle with good service records can often be much more reliable.

Buying work trucks, I often go for high mileage per year examples, especially if they are fleet maintained with a service history. Work trucks not only log miles, but also hours. So a 10k mile 5 year old vehicle with 5500 service hours is a loving disaster waiting to happen. That's because it spent most of it's life idling somewhere, which is kinda not good for it.

While a 3 year old vehicle with 90k miles spent most of it's life driving across the state, on a highway, in overdrive gear. That one is going to cost less and run without a hicup for another 50k

# ¿ Sep 8, 2016 04:38

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Bovril Delight posted:

This is exactly what I pictured.

Is this the car, ranked 1st as most likely to be purchased after a divorce?

# ¿ Sep 12, 2016 20:19

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

photomikey posted:

I personally think AAA is a ripoff, but I am happy to call a towtruck to change a tire rather than risk my life on a Southern California highway shoulder. The $50 every few years is cheaper than the AAA membership.

Do you call tow trucks often? Is $50 what you're accustom to paying? Because I haven't seen that kind on price for a tow, unless they taking you to body/repair shops that's giving them a hefty finder's fee.

I just had my truck towed yesterday. Shredded a front tire against metal structure, spare is dry rotted. AAA flatbed took me 86 miles to the shop I trust. It cost $116/year. I can repeat that 4 more times. They will also unlock it, bring me gas, give a jump, whatever. That one tow is already cheaper than what I would have paid out of pocket. Something to think about

nm posted:

You just bought a used german car. You're gonna want AAA. Not to change your tires, mind you.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2016 15:52

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Phone posted:

Buy the MX5.

The new Spyder is the mx5, with Fiat turbo engine and softer suspension. The turbo engine is a laggy turd that makes same horsepower as standard Miata. The only reason is to choose one over the other, is the looks and badge. It looks amazing and is technically an "Italian sports car", which may or may not get you laid quicker in certain company.

# ¿ Sep 21, 2016 17:33

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

WalMart charges $20 per tire to mount and balance, it's great

# ¿ Sep 25, 2016 21:03

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

My buddy is leasing a fully loaded Camry for $240/month with 2k down. That's a $33k car. He's a financial consultant and saving money is his full time job. Leasing a car can be economical enough. Previously he had great success driving cars from http://www.swapalease.com/ The premise is that you let someone else eat the downpayment, and you finish off the remainder for chump change.

# ¿ Sep 26, 2016 15:38

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Thermopyle posted:

It's interesting that people are asserting that leases are or are not fine without showing the math.

What math do you want to see? Here is a Prius that you can drive for 11 months. All numbers are present and accounted for.

http://www.swapalease.com/lease/details/2014-Toyota-Prius-c.aspx?salid=998763

# ¿ Sep 26, 2016 15:52

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

two_beer_bishes posted:

According to the carfax it's pretty well spread out.

You got nothing to worry about, go wild

# ¿ Sep 26, 2016 17:39

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Styliferous posted:

I've got a quick question. I'm in the market for a used vehicle after my current car finally crapped the bed and will likely need a new transmission. I've been looking very heavily at getting a Gen 2 Prius for somewhere in the $5,000 range, but I've heard a lot of cross talk about the lifespan of the NiMH batteries that power the electric motors in the car.

How concerned about this should I be when looking at a Prius in the ~150k mile range? I can post a budget if necessary.

A shop specializing in Prius battery replacement, told me mid 200's is when you should expect loss of performance. They rarely fail outright, and there is possibility of partial replacement, not sure how that works. Either way, your Prius will still run on gasoline engine alone. I wouldn't worry too much.

# ¿ Sep 29, 2016 16:58

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Civic is a mid size car now?

# ¿ Oct 3, 2016 03:46

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Cities issue permits for residents, that allow more liberal use of street parking. They bypass some sign restrictions, like 2 hour limit and such.

Either way, you have a one time purchase price, plus fees and taxes. Then routine maintenance cost. Registration and insurance reoccurring cost. And probably parking and permits. Not sure what your napkin math looks like, but you have to use Uber and rentals for several years, before breaking even remotely even.

I only mention because you're framing this from cost savings angle. If you can afford the expense, by all means, by a Prius.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2016 14:02

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

JnnyThndrs posted:

Just FYI, being towed after a rear-ender can mean anything from 'massive frame damage' to 'the taillight are all busted and the cops say it's unsafe to drive',* so it could be anything.

If it's gone 100K since then, drives OK, tires look OK and the hatch shuts/fits OK, I -might- take a chance on it if the price was right.

*source: I used to work a second job at a tow company and it was common for cops to order everything involved towed away.

Seriously. They will tow it if the rear hatch took a hit and won't stay closed. 100k proven road miles is petty much a clean health bill at this point, buy the car if the price is good.

Zeth posted:

(though if I find something good that doesn't come in a color I like I can always have it repainted later so this is also not vital).

Do you paint cars for a living? Then no, re-painting a car cost thousands of dollars, then lose you thousands in resale value because everyone will think it's an accident repair. Don't ever even think you can do something like that.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Oct 19, 2016

# ¿ Oct 19, 2016 15:13

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Is Trax much cheaper than Rav4, CRV or MX 3/5? Because why would you want one?

# ¿ Oct 24, 2016 00:45

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

FCKGW posted:

Mother-in-law wants to get a car because she's sick of borrowing ours to make trips around town. She's on a fixed income and lives with us so her budget is tight, but she won't be putting much mileage on it. Plus our uncle is a mechanic and can inspect/repair anything that comes up at cost.

Proposed Budget: $2500
New or Used: Used Obviously
Body Style: Mid-sized sedan. She's a big lady so compacts are out
How will you be using the car?: Strictly to go from house to grocery to church and back. Less than 1k miles/yr, no freeway driving.
What aspects are most important to you? Cheap and semi-reliable. Looking at used the Hondas and Toyotas have a minimum price floor above our range so they're probably out. ~100k miles we're seeing some early 2000s Ford Tauruses in our range that seem like decent buys (she had one previously), not sure what other models we should be looking at.

You want to check out late 90's Camry/Maxima/Accord, in that order.

# ¿ Nov 6, 2016 00:03

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

khysanth posted:

Yea looking for storage w/out having to fold down the seats. 4 passengers + camping poo poo.

A minivan would cover all your bases nicely.

# ¿ Nov 8, 2016 22:33

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

All kinds of weird and awkward people will try complimenting your car if you're in an old Volvo or VW. Then they'll ask if you're selling it. Then they want to know your email/phone/facebook info. It's part of life.

# ¿ Nov 13, 2016 15:48

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 12:05

Nitrox: Jul 5, 2002

Do not buy a small/medium truck, unless it's the exact size vehicle that fits into your parking/garage. There is nothing inherently wrong with them, other than supply to demand ratio. As in, there is limited supply and high demand. Many young guys buy the stupid things for image reasons, and the prices are stupidly overinflated. Otherwise you'll be much better served by a base model 1500 pickup, extended cab if you need more seating space. Bonus savings if you can drive a manual

# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 16:44

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

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