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Haha so the strut tower rusted out, and so they braced it with a log against the window, then the inevitable happened. Guy gives no fucks, apparently.
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Sep 30, 2013 05:59
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I didn't even know they made/sold chlorinated brake cleaner anymore. I don't think I've ever seen any.
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Oct 21, 2013 09:25
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Darchangel posted:I submit that it still better than the HT4100. Let's not forget that aluminum block, iron head, linerless abomination from the Vega.
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Dec 19, 2013 00:08
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QuarkMartial posted:There's also the fuel pump whistle that Crown Vics and Grand Marquis have. Not as bad as that Chevy fuel pump in the 90s trucks.
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Feb 24, 2014 20:12
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InitialDave posted:I find it strange watching Mighty Car Mods when they go to undo a 20-year-old bolted joint, and actually can. I took the factory exhaust manifolds off my 1965 and all the bolts came out with just a ratchet except one.
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Aug 3, 2014 20:34
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kastein posted:Responses from the guy who took the pictures: "and my left ear is still kind of ringing for some reason, weird, huh?  "
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Sep 26, 2014 22:00
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JazzmasterCurious posted:Timing belt was changed when the heads were done, but not the other service items (tensioner and runner wheels + pump + thermostat). The dumbass. And the tension must have been a bit too tight, there'd been a whine which is a symptom of that, apparently. Thus it broke. I changed everything over the last two days, now the climate control panel (diagnostics easter egg) gives me a "17.0 engine speed sensor malfunction" (camshaft position sensor) — this will cut the spark and fuel supply to the engine. I'll try and reset it with VAG-COM from a friend and see if the ECU will give out some spark and fuel, if that doesn't work it's off to a reputable shop and more money out the window for either replacement heads or a replacement engine. It still could have jumped time when the tensioner broke. That would lead to a cam position sensor code, because the cam position sensor would disagree with the crank position sensor. Since you seem pretty handy, you should be able to manually crank the motor with a breaker bar to line up whatever timing marks exist on that engine, see if it really has jumped time. Since you have it all apart to do the tensioner etc, it shouldn't be too much hassle to get it back in time. If it does run, do a compression and leakdown test to make sure you didn't smash anything.
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Sep 29, 2014 21:30
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1500quidporsche posted:Are we talking rebuilding or just swapping in something ripped out of the junkyard and slapping it in? I don't think a shop would willingly install a piece of poo poo unknown transmission in a customer's car. Also, for $4500 it better drat be a rebuilt transmission.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:59
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thelightguy posted:I mean, you say that, but then I'm buying a Fiat 500 Abarth next month which manages four and five star rankings without being the size of a WWII tank. OK, so it's 4 inches narrower and 5 inches shorter than the S-10. of course, it's way less long  e: ^^^ 
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Oct 11, 2014 06:20
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And that right there is why you use full floating axles on offroad vehicles. At least a C-clip eliminator! Yikes.
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Dec 11, 2014 00:11
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Yeah I've heard of folks snapping an axle trying to get un-stuck, and the obvious happens. My first instinct is to be surprised that a Jeep with work put into it is still on D35s, but looking closer at that wheel (fake beadlock pattern cast into the rim) it looks like maybe it's a mall crawler? Everything's so clean.
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Dec 11, 2014 01:02
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The only Jeep dudes I know either keep things stock and drive them on the street, or have them done up fairly right. I remember my grandpa had D44s under his CJ, but that would have had an AMC20, wouldn't it have?
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Dec 11, 2014 02:04
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Looks too yellow to be ATF... Dick Turbo, did you blow a line?
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Dec 22, 2014 07:43
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Splizwarf posted:Using a cherry picker on dirt seems like a bad idea. Put down a piece of scrap plywood. Plus, it may be easier to lift the motor then push the truck out from under it than try to roll the hoist on uneven ground (until you lower it, anyway).
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Dec 28, 2014 07:40
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Safety Dance posted:Has kastein ever pulled an engine not on dirt? To be fair, his engine hoist moves around on dirt a little bit better than most. 
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Dec 28, 2014 09:34
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To paraphrase Charles Babbage, I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such behavior.
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Jan 3, 2015 22:39
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I'm on a small screen right now, so when your post loaded I only saw the top half. I thought "well, yeah, there's no compression rings! dummy!" Then I scrolled down. 
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Jan 5, 2015 22:34
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I can start my truck moving in any gear, and I'm pretty sure I could dump the clutch in (granny) first and not stall it. Can't say that I've tried though. I'd expect to be able to let off it pretty aggressively even in second without it stalling. Torque!
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Jan 14, 2015 02:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Think about how skinny your washer lines are - driving around at highway speeds at ~28-30 degrees can be all it takes. But who would want to live in a place where it gets that cold regularly, anyway?
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Jan 16, 2015 08:20
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Safety Dance posted:variac If you want more power at less RPM, you'll want to use a VFD.
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Jan 25, 2015 21:03
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Safety Dance posted:That was my first plan, but someone said "Hey, we have this variac you can use." Yeah a triac (dimmer switch) is probably a better idea than a variac in actual non-testing use, but a VFD will still give you better performance. I guess they're non-trivial to DIY?
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Jan 25, 2015 22:41
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Slavvy posted:Yeah but you're reducing the vacuum in that scenario. In my boss' car the diameter of the restricter on the vacuum line itself was made bigger. The amount of vacuum the engine punched out was the same, it was just 'flowing' through a larger hole. I'd imagine it allows for a faster slew rate. The engine only makes so much vacuum, but it's acting on a bunch of different things. Power brakes, vacuum advance, kick down, actually pulling the air into the cylinders. By widening the orifice it seems like you'd be able to change the absolute pressure on the transmission side of the orifice faster. Maybe? I'm not great with physics.
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Jan 29, 2015 06:18
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Slavvy posted:But why? What flow? Vacuum, as stated above, doesn't 'flow' so changing the size of the hole shouldn't make a difference. It's emptyness, it doesn't care how big the hole is. Changing the size of the atmospheric air entry hole on the other side of the diaphragm would certainly make a difference, as would changing the area of the diaphragm itself. Because when you change throttle position, your manifold vacuum changes dramatically. Going from atmospheric pressure (WOT) to 10 inches of mercury (half throttle) is going to require that some air move through that orifice. The size of the orifice will govern how fast that can happen.
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Jan 29, 2015 07:37
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They're a good donor for 2.4 turbo drivetrains.
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Feb 1, 2015 21:47
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Wasabi the J posted:What did the Durango chose to do??? 13 inch pulled it apart, it's got a chewed up cylinder, customer said "gently caress it, just put it back together" so probably it's gonna be a 7-cylinder for awhile.
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Feb 7, 2015 01:40
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:My favorites from the airplane thread were component-rich exhaust and controlled flight into terrain. I believe that's "engine-rich exhaust"
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Feb 9, 2015 01:19
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Bajaha posted:Is there really no way for a tech to refuse work? It would seem if you've spent way too much time on a poo poo show like this you could just give up the time for this job and it just passes onto the next poor soul. Can't let the underclass get uppity by letting them have personal agency. If you did, soon they might even get the nerve to ask for a livable wage! 
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Feb 15, 2015 01:22
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Steamos posted:Just popped up on my Facebook: "Piston damage?" "I dunno, but I'm trying my best."
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Mar 4, 2015 22:00
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EightBit posted:I failed to get that info. I was only concerned with it having a good block. That's from the good motor? 
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Mar 11, 2015 08:11
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Slavvy posted:I have that exact filter tool and it is hands-down the best kind I've ever used. Until my co-worker broke it. One advantage to buying the Craftsman one over the HF one is the lifetime warranty.
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Mar 25, 2015 07:46
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Rectal Placenta posted:Makes the air flow faster. Duh. Waxing your modem, tryna make it go faster.
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Apr 10, 2015 22:17
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FuzzKill posted:How did they get the wires through the handrail? Well, since that is a new construction, the wires were probably there before the stairs were. So I'd guess they just poured the concrete around them, and then built the handrails around them.
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Apr 12, 2015 22:57
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you magnificent bastard
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Apr 14, 2015 02:04
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Horrible Mechanical Failures: gently caress you VW
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Apr 17, 2015 09:29
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:Customer complaint; brakes taking longer to stop than normal. Also the check engine lights been on for a while, they authorised the diag while theyre here. Customer states no drivability issues, just curious on the light. Haha I guess "no drivability issues" means "yeah most days I can get it to drive!"
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Apr 19, 2015 21:49
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Slavvy posted:Does anyone else get the impression that the reliability of a car is inversely proportionate to how knowledgeable the owner is? I see old e36's and e34's, old mercs, all sorts of unreliable, finicky cars limping around, utterly destroyed, driven by people who don't give a gently caress and don't know what the gently caress, and somehow they just go and go and go. Yet when I buy a purportedly 'reliable' car it ends up having nothing but problems, like it knows I'm a mechanic. I was thinking about this recently, and I think it's a combination of things. For one thing, we actually fix things when they break, whereas others might just leave them broken. This leads to the feeling that you're always fixing your car and no-one else has to, so therefore theirs must be more reliable, right? Nah, they just don't give a poo poo; theirs broke the same time as yours, but theirs stayed broken and so they "didn't have to fix it." Another aspect would be performance modification, you throw a cam and springs to make 75% more horsepower at 200k miles, well, poo poo's gonna break in short order. Or you put stiffer bushings and shorter springs in, and rattle some stuff loose that otherwise would last much longer. Plus, I think that we drive them a bit harder. How many people have acted like taking the tach above 3k RPM is an immediate death sentence? Sure, non-car-people drive fast and drive carelessly, which is ultimately much more damaging, but usually there's not as much WOT involved I don't think. Ricers / idiot kids excluded.
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May 11, 2015 23:26
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chutwig posted:Expensive car, cheap car, doesn't matter, most people just don't get their cars fixed until well after the point where a cheap problem has become an expensive problem. Yeah I think this is the most important bit. What made me think of it was my parents. Seems like every time I visit, I'll notice something like "hey, your belt squeals a bit at startup, you should look at the belt and tensioner" and they look at me like I'm crazy because it's not broken yet. When my dad gave me his truck, I had to do a bunch to it. Brakes, an oozing axle seal, bushings, tires, clutch hydraulics, steering rebuild... it's not that it suddenly started having problems as soon as the title had my name on it instead of his, it's just that I noticed them and decided to fix them instead of continuing to drive it like he would have for who knows how long.
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May 12, 2015 00:07
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Joe Mama posted:I annoy the poo poo out of my girlfriend with my "Why the gently caress is the space-saver on the driving axle" tirades. Are these not truck retreads? fakeaccount posted:I honestly look up to you on a profound level. You broke out o your parent's lazy ways and learned to perform preventative maintenance on your vehicles. That's a huge thing to do. People like yourself are responsible for making things better. If you'd been born into North Korea's royal bloodline, maybe it wouldn't be a third-world shithole. I think this is just due to being a car guy with mechanical intuition, and my dad is really not. He's more of an "A->B driving appliance" and "ignore stuff until it breaks" kind of person, and I'm the opposite.
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May 12, 2015 04:52
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Slavvy posted:Is the northstar the one that has one or two crippling deficiencies but is good on paper, or is it the one that's totally ok in every way but also extremely underwhelming in economy and performance? GM have so many lacklustre engines, it's hard to keep track. They have a head bolt issue, but I believe they fixed that in the later years. Or you can fix it yourself (I think studs are the go-to) to ward off future issues.
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May 20, 2015 23:23
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Plinkey posted:I had a 12 (maybe 13) mm wrench ride under my truck for about a year or two. I was just finishing up some kind of suspension something and the neighbor up the alley emptied their kiddie pool so I had a river of cold water suddenly run by down back. After it all dried I went back under and snugged up the last few bolts, completely forgetting about the wrench. The 12 or 13 mm wrench was on the opposite side of the frame and I had wedged it in for leverage, that was surprising later. I recently found a 10mm wrench still hanging off of the bleeder on my truck's clutch slave cylinder (WHY is the bleeder metric??? there's your horrible mechanical failure). I guess I left it down there last time I bled it. It was just hanging out there!
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Aug 25, 2015 06:41
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