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Cakefool posted:There is a remarkably small amount of propane in an ac system, not enough to worry about in a crash. Yeah. There are very few things that we could put in a car that are worse than leaking gasoline vapors since they are heavier than air. Hydrogen is even better (since it rises and will generally escape and be diffused.)
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Dec 2, 2011 20:00
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revmoo posted:I don't know how you live without it. Even in the winter it's useful. In fact, it's more of a pain for me that the A/C in my '02 is broken at this time of year than in summer. In summer I can open the windows and just be uncomfortable. In this time of year, I get condensation on the inside of the windshield that has the chance to flash freeze before the car warms up. Then I can't see.
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Dec 2, 2011 22:58
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BlackShadow posted:
He is. http://www.cnn.com/2012/01/14/world/europe/italy-cruise-deaths/?hpt=hp_t1 quote:The captain of the ill-fated vessel, which turned over on its side after the grounding, was arrested late Saturday and was being investigated for abandoning ship and manslaughter, a local prosecutor said.
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Jan 15, 2012 08:53
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My lower control arms on my '02 WRX are starting to look that bad. Actually, I wish they did look that bad since they are doing a recall on them right now. If they are bad enough, they replace them. If they aren't bad enough, they just rust-proof them.
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Mar 9, 2012 05:05
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MonkeyNutZ posted:My sister's Forester has been at a dealership for 6 weeks waiting for new control arms as part of a recall. Turns out the parts are back ordered and won't be available until mid APRIL. Luckily she's loving the brand new Legacy they gave her to drive in the mean time. That's another reason why I'm waiting right now. I can afford to leave it sit right now and not drive it as much until they catch up with the recall.
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Mar 9, 2012 16:19
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H110Hawk posted:You can't get the car checked out under the recall and then have them give it back to you until the parts come in to repair the damage? If not ask very nicely for an equivalent free loaner/rental car due to the obvious safety concerns. I don't really want my car sitting around at a dealership for an unknown amount of time waiting for parts. It can sit just as fine in my driveway. My '02 sees maybe 30-50 miles a week right now since I primarily use my '11 so I'm not really worried about the safety concerns. I've been under it recently and there's no obvious holes yet, so they should be fine for awhile. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 18:19
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NOTinuyasha posted:Just a scratch compared to the other poo poo that guy has restored. Doing a google translate to english on that page is like a mechanical failure all in its own. "It is strange that the cushions are not bummed, no?" Must mean, "It's strange the airbags didn't deploy, no?" judging by the reply of, "When not wearing a seat belt - it does not work"
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Jun 27, 2012 05:14
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Motronic posted:Near me (between Philly and NYC) it's significantly less than half. There's still no problem finding diesel, but most fuel stations that aren't on larger roads don't have it. The same with around Pittsburgh. I actually can't even think of a station near me that sells diesel. I know for sure that it's none on my normal routes.
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Aug 8, 2012 14:00
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Bang Me Please posted:I know what you're thinking of but thats not what I was thinking of. There are many rotors with threaded holes for removal purposes, lots of drums have them too. Yeah, that's how I remove the rotors on my Subaru. There are two threaded holes in the rotor and you thread two bolts into them and steadily put pressure on the rotor until it pops off.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:46
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CommieGIR posted:I'm sure its more an accountants doing than engineering. They no doubt save a lot on not having to forge and flesh out actual metal headers for each car rolling down the assembly line. They're lighter and they actually flow better.
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Jan 26, 2013 06:20
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Yeah, they were pretty much rockstars of the time. They were all young scientists that got to be on the cutting edge of a new field that was highly sought after by the military. They played it fast and loose and as long as the military got results, they didn't care.
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Feb 26, 2013 00:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:See, I took that letter as a good thing. Yes, it's a pretty sad failure to send a car out missing a fairly significant component, but I'd say the letter shows that at least someone cares a bit more than "Oh, another fuckup? Send out form letter #8327C." Or, you know, having the dealership itself be the only mouthpiece for the company (which, if I remember correctly, was a lot of Das Volk's problem with his accursed C6). Yeah, that's the way I take it as well. They realize it's an absurd situation so they just kind of ran with it.
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May 11, 2013 08:03
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My opinion is, unless you know the exact source and extent of a fire, best just to GTFO and let pros put it out and let insurance pay you for the loss. The last thing I would want to do is pop the hood for something I think is a small electrical fire and be greeted by exploding battery to the face. There's a whole lot of nasty poo poo under the hood packed very close together, some of it under pressure or easily pressurized by a bit of heat. It's just not worth the risk. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 16:55
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Geoj posted:Isn't E-85 the rough equivalent of 98 or 100 octane? Assuming you're driving something made in the last decade with a fuel system that can handle it, anyways... You're going to need more than just "something recent" with a fuel system that isn't hurt by ethonal to run E-85. Most cars won't be able to handle 85% ethanol without a re-tune and possibly bigger injectors at minimum. Cars that are built for E85 have multiple engine maps that can adapt to the lower powered fuel. Most vehicles out there aren't going to run properly at all. You would be better off putting midgrade in and letting the computer adapt to that than putting E85 in. The former just involves pulling timing, the later is a completely different air/fuel map. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 4, 2014 |
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Sep 4, 2014 21:09
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Geoj posted:Again... But what I'm saying is E85 isn't even the better option if the best you have on the gasoline side is 89 or 87. Those would be less likely to break something than E85.
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Sep 5, 2014 00:14
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In a similar vein, this happened a couple weeks ago near Pittsburgh after an afternoon torrential downpour. The reason why the car is gone in the 2nd image is because it's completely buried in the hole. The woman was backing out of the parking space and the hole opened up right under her. She actually had to call into the tanning place and have someone run out and rescue her before the car was completely swallowed up. This is right along a very busy section of US RT19 Business (McKnight Road), but it was actually a private property problem. The road and the entire business corridor were built alongside a stream way back in the day. The stream was captured in a pipe and the businesses and road were built over it. About two years ago, the township sent robotic cameras into the system to inspect them and warned property owners that they better do something about their condition. But a lot of businesses ignored it. Guess who's probably going to have a huge lawsuit on their hands now!
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Sep 5, 2014 20:42
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You can debate whether or not driver aids are making already bad drivers worse until you are blue in the face. However, it's the results that matter. I've been rear ended 3 goddamn times before and if some collision avoidance feature will keep the 4th from happening, I'm all for it. Distracted drivers are going to be distracted drivers. Until we change the methodology of our driving system to instill the level of respect that is required to pilot a 3500lb blob of metal down the street at fatal speeds, it's still going to be a rampant issue. We are also never going to get there unless we ban a huge swath of people from ever getting behind the wheel and that's never going to happen. It's all moot. In 20 years time we'll have minimal interaction with our vehicles on the highway, only piloting them on surface streets. In 50 years, even that will likely be gone under most circumstances. We, as a society, can't afford to keep letting people drive cars to get from point A to point B. That's the unfortunate truth. As far as the parking brake goes. I was taught to always use it when parked, but I also live in western PA where it is excessively hilly. That being said, I've never used it for a 'hill start.' Getting from the brake to the gas and clutching out before rolling back too far hasn't really never been an issue even on rather steep hills. My WRX has a hill holder now and I honestly find it pretty goddamn annoying.
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Sep 10, 2014 21:08
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Hell, even if you have to go the junkyard engine route, chances are you'll want to replace the timing belt on it before you install it ayways. So, it's not like the parts will go to waste.
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Oct 2, 2014 18:32
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It's a lot simpler than that too. People don't ride motorcycles/scooters/mopeds nearly as much in the US. If "have a motorocycle license" was a requirement to be a postal worker, it could cut down on the pool of potential workers substantially.
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Oct 14, 2014 20:30
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USPS actually already runs about 30 electric vehicles in NYC and they have a few other trials running now and through the years. It seems though that most of the time the company supplying them with the vehicles ends up cancelling the program.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:09
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veedubfreak posted:It's kind of weird to be this far into October and still running my summer wheels. It is supposed to be near 80 for Halloween. I know here in Western PA, I usually don't think of swapping things out until around Thanksgiving. We did get a couple of snowflakes last year in late October, but it's not really any serious cause for alarm because the ground was still too warm. All-seasons are going on the BRZ and Winters on the WRX. So, I'll probably swap out the BRZ wheels first in late November and hold off on the WRX wheels until well into December unless we see some sort of early storm. Never got around to swapping the winters on last year, I just swapped the summers out for all-seasons. The conditions never really warranted winter tires.
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Oct 22, 2014 20:46
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1500quidporsche posted:Its actually mandatory to have winter tires on your car in quebec december through march or something like that. Which they had a law like that here in Alberta as it would instantly take all lovely cars running bald all seasons off the road. So they could run bald winters instead?
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Oct 23, 2014 17:11
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Sagebrush posted:
I'm not really sure if I would call burning zinc 'safe.' Maybe just, 'non-explosive.'
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Oct 25, 2014 20:14
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Modern tire compounds are such that a lot of what makes a tire snow rated now comes down to aggressiveness of tread, so that really doesn't surprise me about A/T tires. Many of the high performance snow tires out there aren't much more than the company using their all-season compound in a more aggressive tread design. The specialized compounds are reserved for the more hardcore snows.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:26
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Things haven't been as dramatic for me. I've run both very good all-seasons and very good snows on my cars and the difference is noticeable under some circumstances, but really marginal most of the time. The car is, without a doubt, a tank in the snow with snow tires. However, some of the worst conditions I've ever driven in have been in all-seasons and never really had an issue with control during any of them. When things get really bad around here, things get really bad and nothing short of diamond carbide tipped tank treads are really going to make much of a difference. Ice+hills+curves=stay home and watch tv no matter how your car is equipped. As always, neither will compensate for the others on the road who go out with insufficient tread or expertise. So, the vast majority of the time you are going to be dealing with blind luck that you don't encounter someone that shouldn't be on the road at all during the conditions.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:40
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nm posted:they were loving amazing on anything but smooth, pollished ice (though still usable at low speed). Hence my comment about staying home. Snow is easy. Snow is drat easy. I've plowed snow with my bumper on crappy RE92s. If you can't drive competently in snow in anything other than dedicated summer tires, you need to hand in your license right now and burn your car. I love when we get inches and inches of snow and have no trepidation about driving in those conditions. What sucks is when you had that 40 degree day after having a week of sub 20 degree temperatures, right around sunset it starts to drizzle, just as it stays hovering right around freezing. Within 20 minutes everything is encased in a glaze of ice and your daily commute involves going over roads that look like this.  Then you get something like this and even studded tires aren't going to help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6249iHSJsKo
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Oct 25, 2014 21:13
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Carfax is useless for repair records. My 2002 WRX had seen the body shop 5 times in my 13 years of ownership and not one of them showed up on carfax.
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Nov 7, 2014 16:24
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Its not so much that cars are disposable. Most of the cars you drive off the lot today will go to 100,000 miles with nothing more than routine maintenance (and often times with even less than routine maintenance.) That's actually one of the things my dad frequently says he DOESN'T miss about the cars he grew up with in the 50s and 60s. Yeah, they may be dead nuts simple to work on with parts you pull from the junkyard, but you were going to rebuild that engine every 60,000 miles just because that's what the engineering at the time could give. Not that it really mattered though because the body would rot out on you in 40,000 miles. Now, we have cars with that sort of mileage looking like they rolled right off the showroom floor and are just getting into the meat of their lifespan. However, since the average car will last a whole hell of a lot longer than it used to, people will want to wholesale move on rather than keep it on the road when the issues start popping up. Either that, or whatever kills it and knocks it off the road is often terminal. I think people often decouple the nostalgia of 'keeping the old car on the road' with what that car's age actually was at the time. If you really examined the cases of going to the junk yard to pick parts to fix your old '70s or '80s clunker, you'll probably find that you were doing so at a much earlier time in that car's lifespan. Sure, you could go to the pick a part to get your 1983 Chevy Celebrity back on the road, but you were probably doing so at year 5 of ownership with less than 60k miles on the clock. That's something most people would find inexcusable in a modern car.
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Nov 11, 2014 18:14
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DJ Commie posted:What is really bizarre is that cars have been reliable and durable for 25+ years now, my 1987 Mazda 323 is now at 259,000 miles on the original drivetrain (new CV boots on original axles, clutch replaced only because of oil contamination) and it hasn't taken any work beyond maintenance, and I did it all when I bought it since I wanted a baseline on an unknown car. My Daihatsus never broke down, they also sometimes had original gearbox oil at 150K miles and they held together. My Subarus have eaten wheel bearings and that is about it. Checks profile....yup, CA. Sorry, your 323 would be a rusted out shell 10 years ago around here and would have long ago given anyone PTSD trying to work out it from fasteners that were no longer fasteners and instead transformed into permanent links through alchemy. 10 years is about all you can hope for in a car that lives in a state that sees snow before you start looking at having a body shop on retainer and needing to torch anything you want to take apart. Hell, I just did a brake job on my 4 year old car that has 39k miles on it and one caliper bracket bolt was nearly welded to the knuckle.
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Nov 11, 2014 18:56
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DJ Commie posted:Ever seen a rusted out Porsche 944? They actually were so well galvanized that they really didn't rust, especially compared to Japanese cars or generally any decade. As I remember, your 2002 WRX (yay!) had some pretty bad rust when it was 10 years old as well, so its not like Subaru the King of Snow does a particularly good job in that regard either. My point was that you are the outlier. In a good chunk of this country, it doesn't matter if the engine will go to 300k miles, the car will never see it, CAN never see it because of attrition of everything else due to environmental factors. That said, it's still far better than it was 20 years ago. I had an '86 Corolla that we bought in '94. So, it was 8 years old at the time. It already had it's fair share of body rust, far far worse than my WRX was at the time I got rid of it. This was actual perforation at the dog legs behind the rear doors. Yes, it ran and ran fairly well. Just fairly though. It always had a propensity to stall in damp weather, especially before it was warmed up and did leave me stranded a few times. Contrast that to a car that was FI and was never driven lightly (autocrossed for many years) yet still ran like a top 13 years later and had two quarter sized rust spots in the body. My '11 is doing better still at this point in it's life compared to my '02. Rose colored glasses. We just remember all the times driving the car, we don't remember all the frustrating moments of 'stuff needing fixed'. "Oh, it ran great, never gave me problems, except for the times it did."
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Nov 11, 2014 19:15
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My dad has to get the whole powertrain of his Traverse dropped due to stretched timing chains. At least the powertrain warranty was extended to 10 years/100,000 miles.
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Dec 30, 2014 03:13
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Huggable Bear King posted:Really?! Timing belts were the biggest dick move car manufacturers have pulled in recent decades. They all did it too, it's like they had a meeting or something. "yeah sure we could just stick with chains, but rubber belts are so much cheaper and then that just becomes a maintenance item so....gently caress em' lets do it" Then there were hookers and blow. Chains aren't exactly perfect either. They stretch over time and their tensioners and pulleys can become just as worn as ones on belts leading to the same sort of catastrophic failure. If anything, the move to chains has been "We can strike a maintenance item off a car and make it more marketable! Who cares what happens after 100k miles!"
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Dec 31, 2014 14:59
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Huggable Bear King posted:Chains get noisy when they're about to go and other than manufacturing defects they typically last the life of the vehicle. They are a PITA to replace though. You really can't say that as absolute when it comes to 'life of the vehicle.' Because what is the life of the vehicle? Is your measure of life different from the manufacturer? Maybe that was true 30 years ago when things were overbuilt because we didn't have our current standards of NVH or had fuel economy targets to hit, but that's not today. Things are engineered to the point where cost intersects with expected lifespan. What the chain is allowing them to do now is push the maintenance window out beyond the expected lifecycle of the vehicle so they can say the part is maintenance free. God help you if you ever have to replace it though. When I replaced the timing belt on my car at 112,000 miles, the belt itself was pristine. There were no cracks or frayed edges. The pulleys, however, were all shot. Every single one of them. Maybe they speced lower life bearings on the pulleys because the belt itself was expected to be replaced at 110k miles, it's hard to say. But i'm not convinced that the recent move to chains has been anything other than a race to lower the maintenance cost total in the first 10 years of vehicle life.
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Dec 31, 2014 18:00
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Slavvy posted:I'm sure they exist, but I personally have never seen a dual VVTI engine with a cambelt. I believe the 2011+ STI has dual AVCS.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:40
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I think the cable connections are tension based. As long as it's being accelerated, it stays hooked up. When it reaches speed and the equipment stops pulling, the tension lets off the cable and it disconnects.
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Jan 15, 2015 17:36
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You do more damage idling the cars to warm them up instead of just driving. Give it a minute to circulate the oil and then just start driving normally. It will get up to operating temp faster and everything will get up to operating temp together.
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Jan 17, 2015 04:49
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jamal posted:How does letting a car come up to temperature more gradually at idle do more harm than anything else? My car makes funny noises and I generally can't even get into 1st to take off from a stop when it is really cold. I definitely wouldn't consider driving normally. I'm not saying take the car to redline as soon as you jump in it. Just drive it gently. Warmup idle is barely lower than the RPMs you achieve just driving the car easily. Sure, there's a tiny bit more load on the engine because the car is moving, but it's not a huge difference if you aren't hammering it. Letting the car sit and idle is warming up the engine and maybe part of the transmission only. Differentials, wheel bearings, and steering components are all going to be pretty cold still after you let the engine warm up and the temptation is to just to start driving normally if you already have a warm engine. You may not have enough mechanical sympathy on those other parts as they warm up since the perception is the car is already warmed up. Plus, modern cars just take forever to idle warm up. Both my '11 WRX and '15 BRZ will barely budge the temp needle in low temps sitting idling. It's also goddamn impractical. I don't have time to sit and idle my car for 20 minutes every time I stop somewhere for an hour during the winter. I would never get anywhere.
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Jan 17, 2015 17:14
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I just don't like keeping a vehicle in an enclosed sealed space above freezing when it's been marinating in salt spray and is put away wet. Rust city.
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Jan 22, 2015 21:20
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Ambient humidity outside in the winter (especially below freezing) is going to be far far far less than an enclosed garage. That means that a) your car dries out quicker and b) there's less water around to participate in the reaction. It's not so much the heat as the fact that warmer air is going to hold on to higher humidity levels.
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Jan 22, 2015 21:27
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Certain years of Mazda 3s actually HAD a warranty extension because of excessive rear quarter panel rust. They at least did have an issue. Every once and awhile during the winter I'll hit a touchless car wash for the undercarriage spray. Mostly though, I drop $1.75 in a coin op car wash bay and use the plain water pressure washer to go over every inch of the car, wheel wells, and crevices. You can get 5 minutes of the pressure washer for under $2 and it usually does a better job than coin op places with soap and everything. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 03:47
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