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mewse
May 2, 2006

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

Yeah, I've heard this a lot too. I'm unable to find literally anyone providing an explanation with data though. It's mostly just claims and I'm somewhat convinced it's just claims being repeated over and over again. That's not 100% the case - this might be true that Wireless is indeed faster than a Wired solution for some reason, but I'm not willing to believe that based on what amounts to nothing other than Internet Gamer Say™. The absolute best result is the Gamer's Nexus test of a couple wireless Logitech mice vs a Wired DeathAdder, but the scope is so narrow, and being done under suspicious conditions (Setup by Logitech, at a Logitech marketing booth) that claiming that as a source of good data is ill-advised.

Alternatively, there are some truly goofy claims (To be fair, they probably meant 'thousands', not 'hundredths', but it still reads very funny):

Today, the difference in response time between most wired and wireless gaming mice comes down to wired winning by hundredths of a second, which is imperceptible to human reaction.

Forgive me for linking a LTT video but wireless gaming mice have been proven to have effective response times nowadays, on par or a millisecond slower than wired

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mewse
May 2, 2006

isndl posted:

Not sure about the MX Master 3 in particular, but as I recall older models had the middle mouse click act as the toggle for the hyper scroll. You may want to check to make sure you're okay with that, it was the main reason I picked up a Triathlon instead when I was looking for a wireless mouse for travel.

I really like my triathlon as a work mouse. Bluetooth has been solid.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Artelier posted:

So...I've been thinking of cutting off the "holders" of the USB on my G703. The claw-like thing here:



I figure it'll just make it into a "normal" micro-USB with no extra grip. Is this a good idea? I've got a few items that use the same type USB port (camera, Kindle, power bank, etc) so I figure I might as well keep just one cable.

I think that's a really bad idea. I had a portable usb3 hard drive with a similar connector (a little wider, usb3 instead of usb2) and throwing it in my backpack with the cable connected eventually broke the connector from the pcb inside the hard drive.

What I mean is that micro-usb connector is tiny and fragile and subjecting it to constant movement without those tabs will cause it to fail much, much faster than just leaving the tabs intact. You can get another microusb cable at a convenience store because they're used for charging cell phones, you can't replace that mouse cable (or mouse!) as easily.

mewse
May 2, 2006

xzzy posted:

Anyone got a recommendations for an all-rounder with 2-4 thumb buttons and software that isn't poo poo?

I've been using a Deathadder for many years now because it feels nice to use without an overload of features, but the wheel click is prone to failure and they get unreliable after 1-2 years. My most recent purchase just started glitching on middle clicks so it's time to replace and it seems like I should see what else is out there. In a first, the right button has started spazzing out too. I guess I ADS too hard.

I like the look of the logitech G604 or MX518 but half the reviews are raging about the software (which surprises me, I thought it was a settled issue that the razer software was the worst).

I especially like the mouse wheel on the G604.. I do a lot of flicking while I work and having a beefy metal wheel seems nice. But it's getting to that threshold of too many buttons.

The logi G102 imported from asia is the best value $20 mouse I know of right now. I disassembled it to install a 3d printed ultralight shell, and it's shockingly robust for the amount of money it costs. The side buttons have mechanical microswitches on a daughterboard, the same type of switch the primary left/right buttons have.

I haven't really had a problem with the software but I basically expect it to be garbage.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Tuxedo Gin posted:

Guess I have some reading to do. I honestly have no idea how mice work.

Assuming windows 10, go to Settings > System > Multitasking and try turning off some of this stuff

mewse
May 2, 2006

Klyith posted:

The G604 is the closest to the old G700, but it's not quite the same.

However, you're in luck! I took pictures the last time I fixed my mouse button contacts so I could write a tutorial, then never posted it. So here is how you can make your mouse last for many many years.


You will need: small screwdriver, xacto knife, scotch tape, and rubbing alcohol or electric contact cleaner

We begin, as all good stories, in medias res:


Notes on opening up mice:
1. the blade is useful to start peeling the teflon pad, you can kinda slip it under and lever up the edge.
2. logitech mice with the mechanical wheel switch for free-spin should be switched to the free-spin mode before pulling the top shell
3. mice with extra buttons probably have a cable connecting the top shell to the main board

optional but helpful is a non-stick thing to put the teflon pads on (I've got a bit of label sticker paper there)

Opening the microswitch:


Carefully pop one of the sides over the latch, and remove the top. Don't lose the tiny white plastic button bit.


Remove the leaf spring bit from the switch:



A thing I like to do is have a loop of scotch tape to hold onto these tiny bits.



Clean the contacts:


Also clean the contact area of the leaf spring, gently. The contact part is that bump on the right in the previous pic.

Optional step not pictured: if your mouse button is feeling mushy, you can restore a firm click by straightening the curved part of the leaf spring a little bit. That's what pushes back on the button. Very carefully! You're not flattening it, just making it a little less curved.

Now hook the leaf spring back onto the switch. This is the annoying part. I don't have a good method to tell you, it just takes me a few minutes of fiddling and eyestrain every time. Maybe tweezers would help?


The trick to putting the switch shell back on:

a bit of scotch tape to hold the button bit in place as you put it together. Tada!

Now put the rest of your mouse back together, don't forget to plug the cables for the top shell back in.

I found it easier to desolder and replace the whole microswitch but this is a very good write up

mewse
May 2, 2006

Tugboat Willy posted:

What’s the goon consensus on the Razer Naga Pro? I was looking to get a mouse I could use in MMOs.

I steer clear of Razer and have been happy with my logitech g600. There's some corsair mouse with the thumb pad now too

mewse
May 2, 2006

Argas posted:

Some day they will release a fancy new G600

Some day.

I’m looking forward to that but I just refurbed mine with a Japanese omron switch for left click, removed the weights that are just screwed on inside the case and some new feet. I found a new white version on eBay that I ordered in case my repairs didn’t work and that’s on the shelf now so I’m set for the foreseeable future or until they finally release an updated version

E: also the internal pcb is silkscreened “antivenom” just in case anyone was wondering whether they were targeting the razer naga

mewse fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 15, 2020

mewse
May 2, 2006

Rinkles posted:

Should I just get something new? (E: suggestions welcome)

K400

mewse
May 2, 2006

Argas posted:

Still stuck on a G600. They'll pry it out of my cold dead hand.

I don’t know why they haven’t bumped the sensor up by one revision, made the case more swoopy looking and released the “upgraded” version

mewse
May 2, 2006

isndl posted:

The Triathlon I bought a few years back has both and I used it primarily in Bluetooth mode.

Yeah I paired a triathlon to my work laptop via bluetooth and it works fine.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Rexxed posted:

My 1/8" 1x2 foot aluminum plate finally had some scratches in it after 6 years so I turned it around and am using the other side. Pretty good mouse pad!

Look at this guy not using a steel plate smdh

mewse
May 2, 2006

Argas posted:

Why are you me

I was reading amazon reviews of the G600 a few days ago and there are some that are like "I've used 3 g600's over the past 6 years because I keep covering them with mountain dew and cheetos, great mouse"

mewse
May 2, 2006

I'm on my second G600. The first one started double-clicking on the left mouse button so I desoldered the switch and put in a japanese omron (D2F-01F? The internal contacts are gold plated so they resist corrosion better than the chinese omrons).

Like two weeks after I fixed the mouse button, the scroll wheel died. I have the parts to repair it but haven't got around to it yet, I'm using a new G600 right now.

A lot of people don't know that there are weights installed inside the G600. Taking it apart, removing the weights, and putting on new mouse feet make it feel a lot nicer. I was really enjoying my refurbed old one before the scroll wheel died.

mewse
May 2, 2006

PittTheElder posted:

Right now I'm using a Roccat Kone EMP, previously had a Logitech G5 that I loved to bits. Any recommendations from the thread?

Logitech relaunched the mx518 which is the same shape as the old G5

mewse
May 2, 2006

Khorne posted:

[*] Wire - the wire usually breaks where it connects to the mouse. Can fix with soldering, requires a little bit of planning given how much tension

Ehh, it's usually a JST connector to the PCB so no soldering required if you get a new cord. Same problem with feet covering screw holes, though.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Chuu posted:

Had the double click issue on a Logitech G-Pro Wired, ordered some switches, replaced them, success! Been fine for a couple weeks now.

Except that now my mouse's middle click stops registering at all.

First, what are the odds I damaged something and it's basically completely dead? As in, no switch replacement would even work?

Second, assuming I do want to replace the switch (Logitech G Pro Wired), it would require buying the old school "square" type switches, like these. Except unlike the 3-pin switches I cannot find a US supplier for these. Anyone know what I should be searching?

I think I've seen them described as tactile dome microswitches but this listing is for tactile button switches

https://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-Assortment/dp/B07LCBLB8N/

mewse
May 2, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry I just have to share this poo poo because I wasn't expecting to cringe so badly from reading a support email



I'm sorry guys just sitting here trying to push out my maximum

mewse
May 2, 2006

I don't buy razer products but found it interesting that the upper housing and buttons are magnesium. A repairable mouse with hotswap sockets for switches and a metal body would be super cool

e: looks like many ROG mice are already shipping with hotswap sockets, neat

mewse fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Feb 3, 2023

mewse
May 2, 2006

Vegetable posted:

Dumb semi-related question: is there anything I can buy to keep my hands warm while using a mouse? I’m thinking like a giant mitten that’s flat at the bottom that can accommodate a palm a mouse and then some. Or something like that.

mewse
May 2, 2006

codo27 posted:

The wheel on my classic Intellimouse at work started to act wonky, would move an increment or two up or down after I'd be done scrolling. Ordered the Pro version. Could I maybe fix the wheel on the other one if I took it apart?

If you're lucky it's just dust in the wheel, if you're unlucky the sensor is dying and you need replacement components and soldering skills

mewse
May 2, 2006



"why'd i cop a probe"

mewse
May 2, 2006

change my name posted:

Lol I tried to update iCue to fix a mouse issue today and it literally corrupted my Windows install to the point where explorer.exe refused to launch any more

Nice

mewse
May 2, 2006

HalloKitty posted:

Batteries. We phased out wireless stuff years ago because of it. That and everyone would take dongles.

B-but my freedom

mewse
May 2, 2006

if the g600 is discontinued i will die irl

mewse
May 2, 2006

I have three of them (logitech g600) - my oldest one is in parts because I haven't been able to repair the mouse wheel sensor. I paid scalper prices on ebay to get a white one because they stopped making those years and years ago.

They did a revision a couple years ago that removed the braided cable, replaced with a lighter weight silicone cable. The design is so old they have weights inside the mouse that you can just unscrew and leave out if you open them to replace the switches (which I've done on my newest).

If they've discontinued it because they are going to finally release an updated model, that's great, if not, that's tragic.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Termyie posted:

That was my biggest issue with the Asus Gladius III Aimpoint. The mouse encoder failed within a month of use and there was no easy replacement for it since it was a Asus-specific encoder design. I also want to know who is deciding mouse shape at Asus because the ribbed sides was one of the worst design choices they could have made. I could never get used to it no matter how much I tried to use it. Asus also need to make it clear on their marketing or somewhere in the documentation that Kalith and Omron switches are the only brands that the socket supports because the TTC and Huano switches I tried to use made the mouse randomly turn off and on over and over again.

Armoury Crate turned me off from ever owning a piece of Asus hardware in the future. The amount of times that the software froze up from doing updates and the amount of useless stuff each download brought was bonkers. So much so that it caused the mouse to desync several times whenever the software randomly froze. It made me appreciate Steelseries GG when I installed it for my Prime Wireless I swapped the Asus mouse for.

This is like 100% opposite to my experience with the asus strix impact 2. I don't know if the wheel encoder is proprietary, but the hotswap sockets run huano switches just fine. The ribbed sides feel good to me. I didn't install armory crate, the RGB on the mouse is customizable with openrgb.

I can unscrew the mouse without tearing off the feet, and the screws holding the whole thing together go into brass bushings rather than strippable plastic threads. It's the most repairable mouse I've ever owned.

mewse
May 2, 2006

lines posted:

https://www.redragonzone.com/products/redragon-m908-rgb-gaming-mouse

This is fairly similar to the G600 though ultimately worse I think. Still, I've got one, as backup for when my G600 finally dies.

I bought this and it wasn't perfect (didn't have left/right tilt on the scroll wheel) so I decided to give up on the 12 button thumb cluster forever

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mewse
May 2, 2006

Rabid Snake posted:

My Kailh 8.0 switches I put into my Logitech G Wireless Pro in 2022 started to double click. They lasted shorter than the stock OEM Omron switches which double clicked after 4 years of use, which is disappointing.

I have had this mouse since 2018, I should probably just buy a new mouse but the battery life is still good on it. I will be trying out the Huano Blue shell Pink dot switches this time. Hopefully it'll last longer then two years.

I replaced the side button switches on this mouse too since it double clicked. If I could source a reliable battery for this mouse, this feels like a Ship of Theseus situation

If you want to keep running that GPW indefinitely there are hotswap PCBs available for left/right click

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