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Mcqueen posted:Two weeks ago I picked up another Viggen from the same guy I bought a Thule rack from not 4 weeks prior. Apparently he had some money troubles and was selling his '99 Lightning Blue two door for cheap. It was the model I wanted when I first fell in love with the car and most of the modifications I would buy are already on it. Sweet. I've just put roof bars on my ng900 and get loads of wind noise from them. It starts to howl from about 30mph up. Is there something I can do to prevent this? or is this normal for roof bars on cars? I've got a landrover with a roof rack which ive never noticed howling but then there is a tiny bit of engine/road noise in that! 
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Feb 6, 2011 11:22
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Sorry Viggen! - its not destroying if it makes it a more drivable car and gets it more used! A 99 GL isnt really a collectable model either. Captain Kosmos posted:My father gave me Saab 99 -82 as birthday present. I was going to buy it but as my birthday was coming, so father paid it for me, car was 50€ + 40€ for new clutch. Its easy to swap to a later engine! I've got 2 1980 99's and have been fitting a later 16v LPT engine into one of them. To do it you need to: Swap the 99 engine mounts onto the newer engine (bolt on) Craft an exhaust downpipe (using the 900 one as a basis) Get a double belt bottom pulley machined down to a single pulley (or get very lucky and find one of the proper saabs ones) To fit a 5 speed box you need to swap the front cover over off the 4 speed box to get the earlier mount (bolt on) You need to fit the 5 speed gear change assembly (bolt in) and cut the rod down The later engine is a bit deeper (due to the water pump and pulley locations) so you need to modify the bulkhead a tiny bit to get more clearance. It needs a bit of hammering at the top and you need to get perhaps 2 cm down by the crank pulley. I (and most other people) have done this by cutting a hole and then making an internally fitted cover that projects into the interior up behind the dash. It is not visible from inside and also means you can get the pully off later if required. You will then need to do some wiring. The wring on my 99's is really showing its age so i'd probably consider trying to swap the entire fusebox and ewngine loom over from the 900. Took me 2 fairly easy days to swap the engine over and get it basically running without an ECU (I'm running on LPG so it only needed an ignition module adding!) Do it 
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Dec 9, 2011 10:53
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I'm sure ive seen an NA swap in the UK. If i was going NA, i'd probably got for an NA 2.3L. Ive got a 2.3 ng900 at the moment and its a lot nicer than the 2.0NA and pretty much the same BHP as a 2.0 LPT Only crappy pics of the engine swap im afraid! my car  bulkhead mods for later engine -  why you need to do the top cutout  bottom pulley mod  modified part of the 99 engine mount  it fits!  c900 straight silencer  hangs on 2 custom brackets that bolt onto existing holes under the rear seat  c900 turbo exhaust downpipe (made from spare parts)  modified wastegate actualtor bracket (it hits the rad otherwise)  petrol tank delete  you may also need to fit the 99turbo style electric fan (goes infront of the radiator rather than behind it), and if you go for a turbo engine will need a combination of intake/turbo piping from a c900 8v turbo and a 99 turbo or to make your own. There is less space in the engine bay of a 99 so the new engine ends up very close to the 99 radiator.
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Dec 9, 2011 14:37
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InitialDave posted:A 2000 9-3 turbo with a year's MOT for £400 sounds intriguing, in that "multiple disasters waiting to happen" way... I bought a 2001 9-3 turbo auto with 6 months MOT for £400 in April(ish) this year. Came with a huge pile of reciepts and had just had a shiney new turbo fitted. I'm viewing it such that if a disaster happens the scrap man will give me atleast £300 for it! It is a lot of car for £400. Awesome for crusing on the motorway as it has aircon and cruise control, and seat heaters and they all work! (I've had 2 ng900's and none of these have worked) It is very thirsty (21mpg round town but 30mpg on the motorway). As £400 cars go it hasnt been bad, though it seems to be developing loads of niggly issues at the moment. I've done almost 9000 miles in it since getting it and it has cost me: £2334.90 in petrol £300 for an MOT (needed a patch welding and some bushes) £35 for 2 drive belts as they snap when you overtake people with the aircon on max! £30 for oil as it had an annoying leak in an oil cooler pipe - fixed with the speacial saab OEM £2 yellow O ring most recently I have had to bypass the neutral safety switch to cure an intermittent non start This week it has also burnt out the fan speed control resistor leaving me with no fans and it looks like a really fiddly job to replace. It has also just started having PCV plumbing issues and I have to fit a load of new pipes and the latest PCV kit (£40) as they all keep falling off and making it smoke and run funny when they do.
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Oct 27, 2012 20:03
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Took my 9-3 into the local Saab dealer today (first time I've ever taken a car there!) and had the sump dropped and cleaned, the autobox oil changed and the updated PCV kit and a load of other new PCV pipes fitted. Apparently the sump was pretty clean already (its a 2001 9-3 with 170k miles) which makes me sleep easier! It cost 3/4 of what I paid for the car but I'm hoping it puts it in good stead to last at least another 12 months - in which case it will be well worth it! Have only done 15 miles in traffic since but having a smooth gearbox that actually changes up and down promptly makes it feel like a different car. Also not leaving a constant smoke screen and having oil dripping onto the exhaust and then burning off all the time (out of a dangling PCV line) is a bonus. They also valeted it and cleared the check engine light - which stayed off for all of 10 miles before coming back on as soon as I overtook someone in sport mode! The CEL previously was on for the recirc dump valve (got a new one ready to fit) and for 'CAT efficiency low' so i guess it is back for one of them I assume there isn't much i can do to stop the CAT efficiency one? (other than a new CAT) Or will new plugs help it? (also get the flashing misfire CEL under full boost). It also has a slight blow on the manifold due to a missing stud. Will this affect the CAT efficiency CEL? Is it more likely that the stud is broken or just missing?... Tomarse fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Nov 15, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 23:55
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Viggen posted:I'm a bit surprised that you did not have the PCV#6 update, since that has been around since 2005/2006. Glad to hear you weren't sludged. It has PCV#6 now . Not sure what it had before! no idea why it hadnt been done - had one owner and had always been serviced at a saab indie specialist!. Reciepts I have show he used to spend a lot on it!It had a turbo not long before i bought it - so could that have filled the CAT with oil? I do have a spare off a lower mileage car. Will investigate after the blow is fixed! I'm going to buy a right angled drill chuck and attempt to drill the broken stud out using an insert in the hole in the manifold to centre the bit. Looks like a bastard but it is blowing quite a lot. On my last car i tried ramming sealant in the blows but it never lasted and that was a non turbo. Guess this was the first auto change. It was sticking and sometimes taking ages to change down and never used to rush to change up either! It can have another flush if it makes it to 200k!
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Nov 15, 2012 18:32
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Tomarse posted:Took my 9-3 into the local Saab dealer today (first time I've ever taken a car there!) and had the sump dropped and cleaned, the autobox oil changed and the updated PCV kit and a load of other new PCV pipes fitted. Ever since having this done my oil light had been flashing if I made hard right turns at speed (the oil level was fine). The only way to avoid it was to take all right turns at 10mph or below which gets boring very fast! Today I had an oil pump kit and oil pressure relief valve fitted and it has fixed it. Now i can throw it round right hand corners again and not drive like a grandad I've been driving my landrover quite a lot instead of the saab. I think i like this 9-3 so much solely because of the heated seats and aircon
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Nov 30, 2012 21:05
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2001 9-3 T7 - Will changing my oil up to 5w/50 synthetic be enough to hide what I assume is wear on my main bearings which is causing low oil pressure? Or am I better trying some 10w/40 semi synth? Ever since having the sump dropped and cleaned AND the oil in the autobox changed I get an occasional oil light flash on right turns and very steep hills at low engine revs. I assume that this has always been an issue but the autobox never used to drop below 1500 rpm before due to its ancient oil (which might have been 170k old). The light only flashes when it drops below 1000 revs and I am turning. I've replaced the oil pump and bypass valve, and already changed from 5w/30 to 5w/40 synth - which decreased the frequency of the flashing slightly. It doesnt happen until the engine is warm - which is why i have been working up the 30-40-50 oil scale rather than the 5-10 bit. Is my logic correct?
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Dec 31, 2012 15:34
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JayKay posted:Just got back from test driving the 9-5. I just managed to fix the screen in my 9-3 SID by using my iron on the glue that attaches the ribbon cable and then putting it back together with a stack of thick double sided tape to wedge it. Sounds daunting but really is a dead easy 10 minute fix! If only i had got round to it when i was still driving the car rather than when i was breaking it for parts!
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Sep 25, 2013 09:22
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West SAAB Story posted:Now stop spilling cola in the drat ignition! Did you iron both ends of the ribbon? I was stuck at 95% until I realised I had only looked at one end of the ribbon. 100% after that  You can also power the SID up with it all apart and the screen hanging off, then just push on the ribbon until you find the bit that isn't connecting properly and give that extra attention with the iron.
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Sep 26, 2013 08:24
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:l also need to figure out what to wire up to the EXTRA button, which is endlessly amusing to me Assuming that a c900 is now pretty much the same age as my 99's were when i first got them - consider wiring it to manually override the cooling fans for when the thermostatic switch stops working! On my 99T I now have 2 EXTRA buttons. One manually starts the cooling fans and one overrides the cold start injector so I can get it started easier!
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Nov 9, 2013 20:24
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I have a 1980 saab 99T which I rebuilt 10 years ago. It had an entirely rebuilt engine and gearbox as both were buggered. Its not been driven for the past 7-8 years because I bought a house and ran out of money and because it was always a fucker to start and I kept getting stranded. I now have it in the garage and am trying to get it going again. I have found that the only way I can get it running is by spraying lots of easy-start into it and cranking it lots or by putting a manual switch on the cold start injector and then leaving that turned on for 2-3 minutes until it seems to warm up enough to tick over on its own without the extra fuel. With the cold start injector running it starts instantly on the key - but is quite lumpy. Turning the injector off too early makes it stumble and stall - even if you rev it. After 2-3 mins you can hear it settle out and start running properly. Once it is warm it starts perfectly. Any ideas? It always used to be bad but used to run okay once you got it initially started. Its recently had a fuel pump (a second hand one) and I've dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out (had loads of horrible varnishy fuel in there) and have run fuel through to all the injectors which now spray nicely if you hold them in a jar. 5 years ago I replaced the K-jet Warm up regulator (which I always thought was causing this) with one from a c900T I had that rotted away (but used to start perfectly). Still had to fight to start it (which I did every few months)
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Jan 11, 2015 19:32
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Francis Baconator posted:I could go through the usual laundry list of suggestions, but I have an idea sure to solve your problem. Sell it to me. My plan is to drive it for 6 months (or atleast through part of an autumn/winter so I can get some cold weather boost fun) and then sell it so that I can play with my other 99 (an LPG powered T16..) It has an original factory water injection kit fitted. Driving it is like 'foot down..... lag lag lag lag lag lag lag gently caress gently caress gently caress WARP SPEED poo poo I NEED TO STEER WHILE IM HOLDING ON WHY ARE ALL THOSE GAUGES RED? poo poo I NEED TO MOVE MY FOOT BUT MY SHOE IS STUCK UNDER THE DASH' Please buy it!
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Jan 15, 2015 21:43
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atomicthumbs posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/4940397690.html I'm a bit late to this Craigslist link (it's now dead). I have a '80 99 n/a with a 90's 16v lpt engine in and a 5 speed box...
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Apr 1, 2015 22:08
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I started working on my 99 again this weekend! Stripped it out: .jpg) Took the rear screen out so that I could sort out the bit of rust that was under the seal on one side. Didn't break the glass .jpg) rebuilt a bit of the rear arch: .jpg) Need to get some filler over it and sand it but my filler had gone off so its going to have to wait until next week. Amongst a massive list of jobs I have to remove the front screen to sort out some rust along the top edge (and respray it properly) .jpg) Not looking forward to this. The rear screen popped out without too much difficulty after I removed the seal centre section and then ran a pick round the seal a few times along while spraying wd40 in it, but the front screen looks much more fragile.
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Jun 14, 2015 17:51
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atomicthumbs posted:apparently 185/55R15 works too, which is a little better than the original size of which exactly one type is available I've got 195/60r15 continental premium contacts on both of my 99's. Good tyres. Plenty of budget options in this size available too. I've got one set on some Incas and the other set on minilites so they should be fine on the soccer balls too. I guess they are a bit smaller in height that the original tyre but they look normal. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 12:27
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JayKay posted:I picked up 2x SID-2's recently off of eBay with the idea of practicing ribbon repair on them. Apparently the hot ( I fixed 2 SID's using my clothes iron and a sheet of paper
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Aug 14, 2016 11:19
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spog posted:Actually, I am okay with the single CD: it's a faff to burn them, the blank CD cost more than blank DVDs and you occasionally drive into the back of someone whilst shuffling through them, but I can live with that. Its pretty easy to hack in an aux-in isn't it?
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Sep 8, 2016 23:18
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spog posted:Not yet. I am hoping it is a simple fuse. There are some MAXI fuses in your fuse box that just say 'see main dealer' in that manual. Check all those. If it isn't then its gonna be one of the 25A or greater ones elsewhere, and it will have a relay too..
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Dec 1, 2016 18:07
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Hi Saab thread! Is there anybody left here with pre-GM Saabs? I started working on my 99T again this weekend and made some new metal wheelarches to replace the filler and rust that was there before. 
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Apr 24, 2017 11:03
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ionn posted:If there were no limiting factors such as space and reason, I would surely have a couple of old Saabs. Would not mind a 1980's 99 or 900 Turbo.  quote:Right now however, I'm fixing a friends 2003 9-5 (wagon, 2.3t automatic). The rear brakes need a complete overhaul, they were seized up and rusted to poo poo after sitting parked all winter. I got all the other bits that need replacing (rotors, pads, shoes, some mounting bits), except the hand brake expanders. A little 2-piece bracket thing that the wire connects to that pushes the brake shoes apart. Looks like this when it is still made of metal and not oxide and dirt:  . 2 x front calipers, 2 x discs, front pads and a master cylinder has just cost me £330 . How does this compare to 9-5 bits?The brake backplates are also hosed and I cant find ones for front handbrake vehicles for sale anywhere
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May 7, 2017 23:37
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Spark plugs? Wouldn't it be giving some codes and a check engine light if the DIC/plugs were at fault? (my 9-3 threw misfire codes and flashed the check engine light when the plugs were tired) Surely most engine related faults would cause some codes in this case? Could it be an issue with the transmission instead?
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Jul 30, 2017 23:56
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Old Binsby posted:I like Saabs, they look nice but not flashy, are comfortable on long distance hauls yet somehow also quite affordable around here (w. europe) on the used market, especially compared to the German mid-to-high-end segment. I guess the Saab automobile bankruptcies have something to do with that much in the same way Rover prices tanked when that brand went under. I'd rather have '900' than '75' on the back of my car though. So they look good, but I learned to love them driving long distance in most of the 90s models over the years due to another Saab-nut friend. They were all very comfortable down long stretches of autobahn, which is mainly what I'll be using a car for. Honorable mention for the 9000 that had the most spacious back seats I've sat in ever until someone offers me a ride in an audi a8L or a drat maybach or something. The dedicated black panel button is just the coolest thing I've owned 99's, c900's and every era of GM/ng900, early 9-3, later 9-3. The classic 900 is a completely different car to the ng900 and later. They are nothing like each other to drive. They are only the same in engine and in dashboard layout and in being Saab's. If you want a early 900 turbo then do not buy an ng900/9-3. They made the c900 up till 1993/94 so you can go a bit later in your searching.
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Jul 28, 2018 15:01
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Shittiest Saab job ever: When the seals in the clutch slave cylinder on your 99 fail and you have to gently caress about with big screwdrivers/crowbars slowly turning over the ending and working round every finger on the clutch and moving it enough to wedge the clutch spacer ring in so you can get the slave cylinder out past them. Photo also taken pre-draining the coolant and removing the radiator in order to pull the clutch shaft out in order to get the slave cylinder over it.. 
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Oct 26, 2018 00:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm looking for something quirky or odd, but something that's also well made and preferably easy to work on and with plenty of spare parts. I think Saab parts should be easy here in the world but I dunno if they are reliable or easy to work on. I get the impression they are a good example of an engineer's car. But not sure if that's in a good way or bad way. Buy a Saab Remember that you are talking about a 30+ year old car so any expectations of “reliable” should be tempered to match that! But yes, the Saab is well built and designed such that it is easy to work on. I’m in the UK and can still get parts for mine so you should have no problem! However remember that this is a 30+ y.o car so they are not always the cheapest parts or the quickest to get. And you may have rust… You should definitely aim for a 16v engine rather than the 8v. That one in your video was a later one so more likely to be a 16v. (Early ones have flat headlights, that one is a sloping front) The 16v came in non-turbo injection, low pressure turbo (lpt) and full pressure turbo (fpt) versions - but you can easily play with the turbo output yourself (if a PO hasn’t already done so!) With the classic 900 (pre-gm) the 2.0 is the only real engine you will find. The 2.1 was more used in the later gm 900 models. It is also a lot rarer (especially in the UK) so you may struggle for parts for it..
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Jun 2, 2023 08:32
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Think about what sort of project you want. Swapping engines around will take you some significant effort especially with you coming in fresh to saabs. I’ve owned somewhere between 8 and 10 99s and 900s now and an engine swap was still hard work in places! An early 99 is now very much a classic car. The 900, while still now technically a “classic” feels a lot more modern and will definitely make your life much easier. I would recommend starting with an 16v turbo 900 and go from there, or go newer and go for a 9000. Still fairly easy to get hold of either in whatever state you want! This is mine, which I commuted 300 miles in last week! (It is now a 16v turbo) 
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Jun 4, 2023 13:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:Is there any way to know aside from asking the seller or seeing inside the engine compartment? Or do all the Turbos proclaim it? No, they come in all flavours, early ones are still single carbed/double carbed, then you get N/A injection and lots of different outputs of turbo (lpt/fpt and lots of different variants). 16v generally from the 87 or so onwards (but not always). There are varying types of engine management between the late-80's onwards ones too. Saab very much liked to mix things up so there is an infinite number of variants, and they were good at raiding the parts bins so changeover years are never fixed. Turbos generally have a turbo badge on somewhere! If you are looking at an advert any seller that cant tell you if it is a turbo/non turbo and what version of it probably isn't the best seller to buy from!
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Jun 4, 2023 23:00
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I assume its you posting on the UKS forum and not another person from Finland with the same thoughts? Go find a local forum or club or some friendly people and test drive some c900 and 99's! How much project do you want? A k-jet swap into a carbed 99 would be sadistic. You've read my project thread right? Might open your eyes to see just what the early 99's can offer in terms of rust and what my engine swap took? (mine is 16v Turbo with a Speeduino)
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Jun 10, 2023 22:40
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UKS is good, but the server is a bit hosed right now (hence the errors you get), and they dont have many tech skills within the uk saab owners club to fix it fast (and I'm specifically not volunteering because doing tech for other car clubs made me hate a lot of people) UK classic car rules allow engine swaps. Buy a standard one and see how you like it. You wont lose money if you look after it and sell it if something more appropriate comes along later! I also have a carbed one, they are nice to drive! Bear in mind that to EFI swap an old saab you will need to do something like: - Swap the fuel tank to one that will take an electric pump, or plumb up an external pump. - Add a return line to the fuel tank Note that your chances of getting hold of an original Saab 99 EFI tank are now pretty much zero and if you do then you will have to work on the pump mounting. I spent around £500 just getting the one for mine repaired. - Do something to the carb and intake manifold to allow you to put injectors in it/use the carb as a throttle plate only/add a TPS. your chances of finding a turbo intake manifold for the early engine are close to zero. If you do find one you will have to get it machined to take normal injectors and work out how to add a TPS. If you want to use a newer intake manifold off a later engine you will have to work hard to make it fit the engine as the intake layout is not the same. - Sort a fuel rail to suit your injectors. - Do something to convert it from points to electronic ignition (I just ditched the dissy and went coil pack) - Work out how to add a crank position sensor (eg a trigger wheel) You could convert it to K-jet if you wanted, but you would have to get most of the parts listed above PLUS the k-jet only parts like the fuel distributor, warm up regulator, 1980's sensors, wiring loom and special fuel hoses and injectors. Please read up on K-jet first. It is mechanical fuel injection so has a lot of moving parts. It doesn't change the engine fueling simply by just changing injector pulses based on sensors. It does it all mechanically. There is a fuel distribution head (which it costs around £500 to get rebuilt here because it will be blocked with 40 years of fuel varnish), there is a warm up regulator that uses a separate circuit full of fuel, along with a block containing valves, a diaphragm and some springs and a bi-metallic strip to control warm up enrichment (and also costs about £500 for a refurb because it will be full of varnish and the moving parts rusted), there are also multiple 70's style timer switches and special relays. Then it also doesn't run at a normal fuel pressure so you need the K-jet specific fuel pump, along with the K-jet specific "fuel accumulator" unit (which are around £200), and the k-jet special injectors - and none of the mounting parts are standard.. You should also bear in mind that the early Saab engine has a timing chain that drives an additional jackshaft. This jackshaft drives the distributor and water pump. The water pump sits in the block and has to be removed with a special puller, and has a cover that corrodes and likely wont come out in one piece (so you are likely now looking at an electric water pump conversion). The jackshaft has teeth that after 45 years are prone to getting chewed up and you will struggle to find one for sale now.. I swapped the whole engine in mine because my old one was siezed and I didnt want to spend the likely £5,000 or so it would take me to get the parts to rebuild it. I have also run a K-jet car and spent way to many hours diagnosing weird k-jet faults, for which the only real solution now is loading the very expensive parts cannon. Speeduino was easier, much cheaper and much more fun!
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Jun 12, 2023 17:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:Yeah I'm not that interested in doing that anymore if it's gonna be expensive as heck. Any old carbed car will give you some big challenges to efi convert it. (Unless it is something American where you can just drop a fancy electronic carb on it!) Yes, the B engine is the early one (and before that there was a triumph engine). Starting with a H engine definitely will make your life easier! Also if you do get a H engine car you can swap in a 16v later without bulkhead mods like I had to do! (As the bulkhead was changed in 82 too)
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Jun 13, 2023 19:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:Oh my, a 1990 TURBO for 4000€ (might get it down still) You need to have a serious word with yourself. That interior is some late 80’s/early nineties beauty! The 2 door/4 door 900 is defo not the prettiest Saab model with that chopped square rear end but they have a certain charm which I thing grows on you.
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Jun 16, 2023 11:15
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His Divine Shadow posted:I am aware of this, but it's still an H engine even if just an 8 valve. It's not the engine but from what I can tell it's still a fine engine. Yeah, the 8v H engine is a solid engine. It looses the horrible jackshaft waterpump/dissy arrangement of the earlier B engine. However, that one is an early one with K-jet so lol :7:
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Jun 16, 2023 22:21
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His Divine Shadow posted:Too spicy for me! I like the ones on this car quite a lot though. No rims are low priority anyway. Louvres are a rarity, and it will likely take you a while to find some, though you might have more luck being closer to Sweden! Currently there is a set of 99/900 hatchback louvres on UK ebay for £750! I actually found a set of louvres for my 99 sedan earlier this year from a random guy on facebook who seems to sell a lot of them, and they were brand new old stock and only cost £300 including shipping from Poland->UK. Keep an eye on this facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/2668775176552732. The 900 sedan rear is different to the 99 sedan. His Divine Shadow posted:I never cared for those tri tip rims however. The ones on the car I am going to look at are much nicer. Though the best rims where on the green metallic saab. these ones are the fancy deeper/wider 3 spokes. I think the standard 3 spokes look good in a darker colour. I've got a ratty old set which i am thinking of painting gold! If you are looking at wheel swaps, the hub/wheel stud spacing changed on the 900 around 1987 (at the same time as the headlight panel went from flat to sloping), so you need to buy the right ones for the car you end up with!
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Jun 21, 2023 17:26
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Swapping the whole locks over is pretty easy. I have never managed to get the barrel and metal bit out of a door lock. The ignition barrel can be swapped fairly easily too (or just keep 2 keys). There are some "security" bolts on the ignition which are easy to get past with a small chisel or by hacking a socket up with a grinder, and then there is a release procedure for the barrel. I would fit a hidden immobiliser switch rather than an alarm. Easy enough to cut a wire somewhere and hide a switch in the dash. You could also fit a tracker and/or something like an airtag.
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Jun 23, 2023 00:00
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Sweet car! a non aircon car wouldn't normally have any aircon compressor brackets so maybe yours has had it removed? that is a bleeder for the cooling system. collapsing seats is normal. buy some base repair kits, and if they come as a metal version (the original is fabric), but a sheet of material ontop to stop the metal cutting into the 40 y.o knackered foam. The foam in my seats had disintegrated too so i had to use an electric carving knife to chop some foam up into new pieces! That rust doesn't look bad! dont start poking it too hard until the end of the summer if you have any roadworthyness inspections to do incase it gets worse. You could likely just treat and paint all that and live with it anyway (if its not an inspection thing) Ive never done the shelf in a 2 door 900, but if the material it is made from is anything like the headlining (which i have done a lot of), you can rebuild it by using PVA glue and channelling your papermache skills. use a PVA/water mix, and give it multiple coats and it will strengthen it. Reinforce it or paper mache it up as required. loads of pictures of headlining repair in my 99 thread i think! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jun 28, 2023 |
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Jun 27, 2023 23:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:Here's some more shots. I wonder if I should make a thread for this car, or just keep posting here? Those 2 holes in the head are where the aircon bracket would mount but every engine has them. The hook on the back of the waterpump is just the standard engine lifting point. just looking like a standard non-aircon car quote:Also changed the oil today. Could also be a loose bolt on the driveshaft drive mount. Check they are all tight. You can see the speedo drive cable at the top back of this photo (Its hard to tell what it is initially to a saab newbie!). it shouldn't be leaking from this. His Divine Shadow posted:The shelf, well at this stage I would prefer to manufacture a new one, I have been thinking about it and 18mm MDF might be better choice for it as well. I could not see a good way to remove the trim on the rear "pillars" to get at the side attachment points, I don't think they just pop out and back in. The c-pillar trims are made of some material covered foamy stuff which is very fragile. They have some form of christmas tree clip inset in the back which you can carefully lever out to remove them  be very careful removing them as the foam will be fragile Tomarse fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jun 28, 2023 |
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Jun 28, 2023 14:51
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His Divine Shadow posted:Learned about the APC boxes and the so called red boxes. I am pretty sure I got the lamest APC box () that gives 160HP only. But apparently you can adjust a few pots inside the box, or swap in a red box (apparently the same thing, just different pot settings) and get 185 hp (optimal conditions). Sounds pretty sweet. Yes, you can tweak the pots in it! You can also add a knock LED to it (and should do before you tweak it) I assume it also doesn’t have an intercooler? The 900 IC kit is a nice one to have if you can find one! It has some different hoses and slots in behind one headlight.
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Jul 3, 2023 02:19
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His Divine Shadow posted:Found this then, seller wants 150€ for it, I had hoped he didn't know what he had... Sound like a fair price to you guys? I guess they're even rarer outside finland or sweden. Definitely a fair price! If you get sick of it and are prepared to ship outside the EU and to the UK (which is now a pain) you could easily make money on that! Check if it comes with the full fittings kit too. Not the end of the world if not but much better if it does.
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Jul 3, 2023 15:57
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His Divine Shadow posted:Nope he was clear on that, no fittings for it. I figured I would use double sided tape or something. You will want some fittings to go with the tape! You can 3D print them, or buy ones that someone else has 3D printed. My 3 door one also was missing the fittings or they were broken so I ended up making my own out of metal - there isnt much too them, just some small flat plates which you tuck under the rubber trim and also stick onto the glass, with a tall nut tacked to it (so you can then put a small bolt into it). Will have to dig out my pictures for you. There is a metal rod too that supports the middle and you can use a bit of M6 threaded bar for this if you like, or just work your DIY fittings around it...
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Jul 3, 2023 19:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:I did read about people on swedish forums saying just tape held well for them. But if the fittings are simple metal bits then I should be able to make my own, haven't looked into their design much but if they are just like sheet metal that's bent into angles then I could probably make them easily. I bumped my project thread! rear louvre mounts here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3937310&pagenumber=7#post519091647 some slight closeups of my brackets here. Excuse the messy welds on there, this was before they were cleaned up and painted!. It is thin sheet metal with M6 threaded joiners and M6 threaded spacers welded on. The flat sheet is bent to match the screen curve then tucked under the seal and glued on with sikaflex.    I have security screws with weird heads on them to stop my louvre walking off easily. It needs a row of tape on the top edge otherwise it rattles slightly. 
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Jul 5, 2023 00:31
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