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Does anyone know of a good source for uniform and vehicle markings for the Estonian SS divisions? I'd like to get the Osprey book on the SS but I'm not sure how well that covers the Estonians as I assume like other Osprey books it focuses mainly on more popular or famous units and I really have no use for a bunch of pictures of Wiking and Totenkopf guys. My friend said that Crowood produces a book on SS schemes but as far as I can tell its just for camo. I know Osprey has the Eastern Front Allies book but I was afraid that it wouldn't have the Estonian SS because they were an SS division.
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Dec 28, 2010 03:04
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moths posted:Can someone recommend me a good 15mm WWI game? I've heard about Through the Mud and Blood from Too Fat Lardies (Very possibly in an incarnation of this thread) but is there anything else exciting? I was impressed with Warhammer Historicals: The Great War although opinions certainly vary around the net. I think its made to be played primarily with bigger mini's (the guy i played with had ones from Foundry I believe) but you could reasonably halve all the distances to rescale it. It's more of a skirmish level thing though, so probably not the right thing if you're going for a 15mm scale battle.
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Dec 28, 2010 03:40
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Hey FoW guys: So I've managed to complete my Estonian SS army, its even mostly painted (except for those halftracks). My question is: If I wanted to start an early war army now, are Hungarians as awesome as they look (they are also a mid war army too, but I have a midwar Afrika Corps army)? I totally want to start a army with lots of mustaches, bicycles and horses! But not if those things are terrible and will get me ground into dust by everyone else (see: late war Romanians).
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Mar 24, 2011 19:19
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The Oldest Man posted:Hungary isn't in EW yet as far as I know. Huh, two guys I know were building armies for Hungary so I assumed it was EW since no one plays MW around here.
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Mar 24, 2011 22:40
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Psychic Fetus posted:I have been a 40k player for some time so I'm really comfortable with that size but id take quality minis over a particular size and im under the impression that 15mm is the standard scale... For 28mm your choices boil down to Foundry, Black Scorpion and Eureka. In my experience BS is the best of those but the Eureka guys aren't bad. But seriously, 1/72 is the way to go. Use pennies for the bases. Assembling two large groups of figures will be around 40 bucks, more if you want technicals and stuff. I'd recommend NOT doing modern first world military. Its OK, but Africa, Middle Eastern Insurgents, and South America (communist revolution era) is much more fun IMHO.
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Sep 28, 2011 10:06
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Serotonin posted:And TAG and Empress and Mongrel and Devil Dog and MoFo. I was trying to think of ones that were in a more GW heroic style scale. Also I'm not a huge fan of TAG, while they make a big range, the detail is inconsistent and the quality control (especially on the weapon packs) is pretty low.
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Sep 28, 2011 23:41
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Havelock Ellis posted:I'm really tempted to buy some Perry Miniatures (I got into Warhammer when the Perrys were dumping out endless amounts of lovely figures, I still have a ton of old metal lizardmen skinks, I cannot part with them). I've not really touched historicals before, outside of buying a few Brit armoured cars for Flames of War, and then never finishing them. Napoleonics will be most likely to find you other people to play with since its so popular. You're unlikely to find another person who will also own an army of historically accurate samurai miniatures, so you would have to supply both sides of the engagement. In fact, a good rule of thumb is to have two armies for any historical game you want to play, sometimes more.
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Sep 29, 2011 05:31
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Psychic Fetus posted:What are the options for 1/72 scale models? companies or sites/forums that display the options would be slick! For modern your options are pretty varied. Plasticsoldierreview.com has pretty up to date information and pictures of all the major manufacturers of 1/72 scale guys. The ones I have personally are from Ceasar, Revell and Italeri. Italeri makes really high quality miniatures, but nothing time period wise after Vietnam. Ceasar makes the best modern military troops, but really only do American and Israeli forces. Revell isnt as nice as Ceasar or Italeri but have a pretty good range of modern military stuff. I have the revell SAS and German commando sets and they are decent.
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Oct 1, 2011 04:02
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Oxford Comma posted:No sir. Simple Green doesn't take off this particular paint. Brake fluid should work, Pinsol can also strip paint. You'll need a coarse brush to help things along tho.
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Oct 2, 2011 06:51
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Man, I've always wanted an all Infantry FoW army. And people tell me that I should play Americans. But gently caress those people. I'm gonna buy a couple thousand points of Black Death Russkies.
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Oct 9, 2011 10:09
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big_g posted:I love your style. Its the snappy caps. And the masses of SMG's, Flamethrowers, and that sexy sexy close range bombardment rule.
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Oct 9, 2011 12:54
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Colonial Air Force posted:I played an all-infantry Soviet army, I didn't really enjoy it, but I think that's because it was early on and I didn't realize how hard infantry are to kill without other infantry. We were probably playing wrong. The Black Death are pretty different from normal Russian infantry lists. They're fearless trained first of all. Second they're better set up to do the all infantry game since they dont rely as much on having huge packs of tanks. SMGs, Flamethrowers and mortars tend to make short work of enemy infantry, and they have access to a large selection of artillery and AT guns at good prices. http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/Documents/Briefings/Morskaya-Pekhota-Batalon.pdf
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Oct 9, 2011 14:24
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Get Fortress Europe. Its a good book for all-around lists and stuff and a lot of the late war books are patterned off of it. For Germans, Villers Bocage and Earth and Steel are good books, for Brits try Monty's Meatgrinder and Turning Tide, for Americans Turning Tide and D Minus 1 (for airborne). If you want a good single book for evenly matched allied and axis lists you could get Bloody Omaha, which is the small D-Day book focused just on Omaha beach. There are other D-Day books (the previously mentioned D Minus 1 and another called, suprise, D-Day) but Bloody Omaha is the one with varied lists for both sides (D-Day has a list in it IIRC, but is more scenario and terrain rules plus fluff).
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Oct 13, 2011 17:10
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lilljonas posted:Aw crud, Wargames Factory finally have pics of their 28mm samurai, and let's just say that they are a bit lacking. Now, is there a chance that I will refuse to pick up a box just to see if they can be painted up decently? Probably not. I just hope their ashigaru will be better. The only way these would look good is if you painted them up to be metal samurai robots. Because these guys seriously have a robocop level of movement going for them.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:15
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Man, if that Plastic Soldier Company stuff is as good as it looks I might finish my Jewish Battalion.
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Jan 10, 2012 09:36
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Screw my so called "life" I'm gonna finish these FoW companies Ive been avoiding. Now to go base thousands of points in Estonians. Because right now what I have in need of basing (that's otherwise painted): 3 Tigers 3 Panthers Two full units of heavy MG's Rocket Batteries (single shot) Rocket Batteries (NW's) Objectives Gonna be a fun couple of days. Maybe if I get crazy I'll start painting and basing the Jews as well, and if I lose my loving mind I'll work on my Mid War Army.
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Jan 30, 2012 08:43
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I just really like to have all my options covered. I don't routinely take Tigers every game unless its mid war, Just like I don't routinely take the single shot rocket batteries, I just find them hilariously goofy.
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Jan 30, 2012 21:48
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When I started FoW everyone was really into heavy infantry and light vehicles. I guess because the first year or so of their playing had been dominated by Bake and Russian tank spam. I played mostly Brits, Finns and American rifle. So naturally I tended towards the big smoke batteries and Heavy MG's, because those chew up rifle companies and silly little commandos into fine paste. Also partially why I did Estonians, since they put up a good defensive line against infantry assault (and it lets you play an actual HEROIC SS army).
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Jan 31, 2012 07:49
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1/72 is a great scale. I should really take some pictures of these modern Libyans I painted. The Ceasar Modern Urban Resistor (Terrorists) set is really quite good for that sort of thing. I wish they made a set that included some white people in civilian clothes, since my group wants to do some IRA themed stuff and we cant find any good minis. I have some OK ones that are military ish guys in ski masks but that was the best I could do.
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Feb 8, 2012 04:12
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Hotwheels are 3/16 scale, which is like 22mm IIRC. Now you have to strap guns to all his hot wheels and play Car Wars!
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Feb 8, 2012 11:21
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The modern militia is notoriously terrible. The big problem is the two guys in arabic dress, the one guy who has very exaggerated African facial features (he's not that big an issue honestly) and the fact that eight figures are hookers with guns. If I see it around at a shop I might pick one up. Its a shame that that's one of the only bad kits Caesar makes because their other stuff is top notch. I've been casually assembling a bunch of random partisans and such that I can use. Guns aren't a huge issue. Obviously the Armalite is preferred, but a lot of the IRA/UDA had a random assortment of weapons. Of interesting note is the Railway workmen set I picked up, because its about half workmen and half thuggish union breaker types. Edit: Three sixteen is true 28mm in theory. But most Hotwheels/Matchbox are probably somewhere around 18mm since they are often just too small for 20mm figures and just too big for 15mm. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Feb 8, 2012 |
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Feb 8, 2012 16:13
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Tamir Lenk posted:True story: At my old local game shop in the 90's, we mounted Hot Wheels on cardboard to play Car Wars. Just triple the scale, and play on a 4x8 table with some 40K terrain and buildings. The Pride and joy of my Car Warsing is my pink caddilac with the virgin mary on the hood. Also my armored subaru drifting car. One of the old GW games was made for matchbox/hotwheels cars, they sold packs of poo poo that you could glue to them.
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Feb 9, 2012 07:02
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I wasn't so hot on IRA stuff but they wanted to do a more modern skirmish level thing, so we decided on IRA vs UDA. Previously we did Gangs of New York, Prohibition era Mafia and Libya. We had also considered doing an inner city Gangs (IE Crips vs Bloods or similar) but shockingly the miniature support for that is absolutely terrible. This is all for Legends of the Old West BTW.
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Feb 13, 2012 02:51
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Arquinsiel posted:I don't know where you're based but have them re-create an orange order parade or the Omagh bombing. The situation in Northern Ireland is not wargamable in the traditional sense simply because it's not the kind of war that rulebooks will ever be able to cover (anyone making policy for the USA right now please take note and stop publishing those dumb books). I was lead to believe that during several periods there were street level skirmishes between the various Ulster factions and the assorted IRA people. More along the lines of gang warfare than actual military conflict, but that's been what our previous stuff has been about too. Colonial Air Force posted:It was either the January or February issues of Wargames Illustrated, but tehre was mention of some gaming event that did Gangs of New York. There is a company that does really good 28mm Gangs of New York minis, some make a brief appearance in one of the Legends of the Old West books under the section about different time periods for the rule set.
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Feb 13, 2012 07:25
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Whats actually good for a 40k game =/ how people set up terrain for one. Terrain heavy 40k games are super fun, they just favor the kinds of units that mainstream (IE 12 year olds and smellbads) 40k players salivate over (walkers and big tanks) and they promote a more FoW style "capture and hold" play style as opposed to the more loved "shoot the mans" style of game. Thats why I stopped 40k. Because all the people who played the style I liked (with objectives and other fun) weren't very nice people and were sore losers. And the nice and fun people were all in it to paint land raiders and have big open firefights between masses of orcs and marines.
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Feb 21, 2012 09:06
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Woo! Finished up the last of these Libyans I was painting. Took me a while to get a correctly sized pickup truck, and somewhere in there I acquired some more miniatures to paint and well, you know how that goes. My new project is more fun: Two Warhammer Historical armies based on A Song of Ice and Fire. I am so ready to paint all that red and yellow (ohgodpleasehelpmeIamnotready).
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Mar 25, 2012 22:59
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This seems like the thread to ask this in: What scale and rules would you guys use for wargaming in the Song of Ice and Fire/Game of Thrones universe? Since its basically going to end up as a historicals game with the names filed off owing to the fact that the setting doesn't really have combat magic or anything like that. So ideally something for 1400's Europe. I am prejudiced towards doing 1/72 because its my favorite scale, but someone else suggested using the GW LotR rules and a combination of LotR and Perry miniatures (since they are the same scale and style). I would want something that could go from a small skirmish of about twenty guys per side to a more robust a huge conflict.
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Jun 12, 2012 05:56
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MasterSlowPoke posted:At the smaller end of the scale, apparently GW's Legends of the Old West is actually rather amazing at skimish scale and isn't as focused on shooting as you'd think. Never played it myself, but should be cinematic enough for ASOFAI. Yeah, honestly Legends of the High Seas/Old West is probably better. The main reason LOTR was an option was that it scales up with War of the Ring really well. I like Legends a lot but its not terribly good for medieval skirmish gaming.
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Jun 12, 2012 09:38
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Unzip and Attack posted:I've looked at some other Perry boxes and the ones I've found seem to be much higher quality and more expensive than the ones I have. I remember buying these a few years ago for about $15-$20 a box (2 boxes) but they Perry ones are much more expensive. Warning: Streletz is the most mixed of bags.
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Jul 1, 2012 05:32
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So I'm thinking with all this new poo poo that I'm gonna get back into FoW. I need a silly fun army with cool back story that I can play. Here's my previous four armies: -Estonian SS (my mainstay force) -Russian Naval Infantry -British Jewish Battalion -Tunisian Tigers (my mid war force)
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Jul 15, 2012 06:57
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Hey I'm looking to see if anyone can identify a website for me. I used them to order my Russians and I was looking into maybe using them again to order Hungarians, Romanians or some other such funtimes. They had decent prices and a good range of different 15mm guys. I seem to remember their site being mostly camo green color and I think their logo had a crosshair on it. Anybody know who I'm talking about?
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Jul 21, 2012 00:34
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Does anyone know if there would be interest in some very cheap balsa wood FoW bases? I started making them when I was bored and things were drying and continued well beyond what I needed for my army and would totally offload the extras and any more I happen to make when I'm bored for very very very cheap. They aren't total rear end either since they are made from decent quality Aircraft Balsa.
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Sep 4, 2012 21:58
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Numlock posted:Well if you do end up going the FOW route, one of the good things about FOW is that you can pick any nation and it will have lists as capable of winning any tournament as any other. This includes France in Early War, they are also in Late war but are organized as Americans with different special rules. As a warning, you will be at a slight disadvantage if you choose some forces. Mainly Italians and Russians. I play a (admittedly sort of obscure) Russian army and the new edition made them a lot less good than they used to be, but its nothing compared to GW style edition changes.
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Feb 18, 2013 11:11
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Paper Mac posted:Hey folks. It was recommended to me in the miniatures thread to mosey over here and ask about skirmish games. I'm think I'm looking for something with a lowish figure count that's preferably not scale bound, but if it is, does 15 or 28mm. If it's 28mm, ideally it's something that someone else actually plays so I don't have to paint 2 armies. The only other requirement is that it has to have a non-boring opinion about the historical period it's conveying, expressed in mechanics/chrome/whatever. I will do Pictish raiding parties, Ottoman janissaries, Vietnam, wars between the Algonquin/Iroquois, I don't care, it just has to have some salient aspects of that conflict conveyed in the ruleset (or have really thematic campaigns or something). You're playing historics, you'll need to paint several armies or con your buddies into going in with you, there is no other way. HOWEVER, for skirmish games you should do 1/72 as the scale, because building two good sized skirmish forces at that scale is less than thirty dollars. 1/72 covers most if not all major time periods. Ambush Alley is a good starting point as is Saga. If you want something more thematic, the Warhammer Historicals line of Legends of the Old West and Legends of the HIgh Seas are really fun (if not terribly crunch heavy) skirmish games with a pretty good campaign system. They can pretty much be slightly adapted to any conflict between the Antebellum and WWII which is a bonus. High Seas can also work for AWI and Napoleonic (also Warring States era Japan) skirmish games if you wanted to do Militia vs Redcoats or something similar. I really love 1/72 because of how many options you can get and how many companies are involved in it. If you're building forces of around fifteen dudes a single box will often get you a load of options and http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Index.aspx will keep you up to date with all the newest releases in the industry. I recommend Caesar miniatures (look for the distinct black and yellow boxes) for skirmish gaming because they have the best variety and sculpt quality. They aren't that great for large armies because they have so much variance but for skirmish they really shine. The average price is about ten dollars for forty miniatures. You can also put them on WH40K sized bases and fudge them into pretty much any 28mm ruleset without much scale disparity, but traditionally they are mounted on pennies. saurkrautwerfer posted:Two part post: El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 09:00
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MohawkSatan posted:Anyone know of a company that sells 15mm WW2 guys that doesn't charge $rape for the minis or the shipping? Some buddies of mine and myself are going to start up playing Flames of War. We were looking at Old Glory, until we realized that the shipping to Canada is $40 minimum. Where are you buying your Old Glory stuff from? If its OldGlory15s you should see about getting it from WarWeb, they tend to have better shipping deals.
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Feb 21, 2013 07:04
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I think I payed in the area of ~95 dollars for my entire infantry company. They are the awesome Russian Naval Infantry and I grabbed whatever ones were being produced by a selection of the metal manufacturers. I actually have way more dudes than I will ever want to field, but thats sort of how it goes in FoW. My only regret is that I had to end up using FoW figures for the Flamethrower unit and they look a little out of place. Not to say Battlefront makes bad miniatures. My entire Estonian SS and Tunisian Tigers armies are in their miniatures and look snappy. There is just a ton more options and its a lot cheaper if you expand beyond them. I for instance have a unit of Soviet NKVD troops. BF doesn't make NKVD models because they are an extremely obscure thing to have (they are the Soviet Secret Police for reference) but I enjoy fielding them for fluffy reasons in some games. The same goes with other obscure things like bicycle troops and Volkssturm.
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Mar 2, 2013 15:08
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There are some pretty dramatic differences between the eras of German infantry equipment, but its most in SS stuff. And most of the major visual differences were between early war and late war so you have some leeway with mid war period troops. There are certain units those minis will not be appropriate for but most of them are specialized (Engineer and Pioneer units mainly) groupa that you would need special minis from any company to cover. PSC Germans are pretty appropriate for any force from late 42 to early 44. If you want to go for a more specialized force as opposed to general infantry company I would look at companies like Old Glory and Quality Casting. Both of which will mix with PSC pretty well, OG more so If I remember correctly.
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Mar 3, 2013 05:14
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YF19pilot posted:Quick question. Are there any MW Polish armies in FoW? They were covered under the Partisans ruleset which is no longer available/"under review" AFAIK.
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Mar 3, 2013 08:15
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YF19pilot posted:Eh, I was looking more for Polish units serving with the allies anyways, kinda like the Polish 1st Armored Div. in LW. Hopefully we can expect a bunch of updated mid war briefings this year for stuff like Hungarians, Romanians, Poles and the totally awesome Slovak Fast Division. Unfortunately for you the Polish Army didn't really fight in mid war. If you wanted to field them anyways you would basically just have a British Armor force from one of the Africa books, although their tank selection was mostly Crusaders. The Krajowa, what most people think of as the Polish Army in WWII, and the ones with distinctive looks and equipment didn't fight a major battle until the Uprising, and even then they weren't equipped enough to count as a FoW force greater than 500 points. This basically means you have one possible army you could play and boy are they a doozy. The so called "Anders Army" was a force raised from Polish PoWs in Russia after the Russians joined the Allies and they and Poland became friends or something. They hooked up with the 3rd Carpathian Division and then formed the Polish Second Army which fought in Cassino and Bologna. They also famously had a pet brown bear named Wojtek. Either way they would be equipped entirely in British equipment and uniforms. Some of them wore peaked caps and there was a distinct lack of uniformity between their forces. Other than that however their equipment didn't really change between Mid War and Operation Olive, so if you examine those lists and stuff you could get a pretty good idea of how to model your guys.
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Mar 3, 2013 14:59
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YF19pilot posted:I'll have to double check, but I don't recall them being in Cassino, but there is an online .pdf breifing for them (including Wojtek). The II Polish Corps wasn't in theater until 1944. However, reading the history in the .pdf, commando units that were part of the II Polish Corps were active in Italy in late 1943. So I could probably run British commandos from North Africa and just call them Poles to make me feel better. What became the II Polish was raised in 42 and began training in British held Jerusalem and Palestine. They didn't see combat until Italy in 43 but they certainly existed in mid-war even if they didn't actually fight any battles. Bologna and Cassino are the two major offensives that they fought in during Olive and there is a fair amount about the Polish divisions in Italy covered in a Late War briefing on the FoW website. But again, they were raised as a British infantry company, so their equipment and training is going to be identical to one.
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Mar 4, 2013 06:19
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