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Howdy Volvo Friends! I've been directed here by my good friends in TFR. Please be gentle if I say anything stupid, I've not really been to AI before. I'm looking to purchase a used Volvo. My favorite car ever was an 87' 740 GLE and I've missed it my whole life. That's why I'm looking for a Volvo. I've got a leg disability, so I will only be getting this car for puttering around town. It's not going to be doing 30 miles a day to and from a job. Because of my legs, I'm not going to be able to work on this car myself. I'm OK with putting some money into a car, but I don't want to buy a money pit that will require me to get another one in six months. Here is what I'm looking at - Used Volvos on Craigslist and dealers that are 3k and under. I'm trying to avoid anything that says turbo. In my price range, I'm seeing a lot of cars with over 150k miles from the late 90's and early 00's. I've got a few that I'm currently chatting with the owners about, but I'd also welcome Goon advice. What type of Volvos should I avoid? Are there any real big pitfalls, like models with poo poo transmissions and the like. Also, should I post the cars I'm looking at here? I appreciate the help in advance!
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Apr 21, 2020 22:06
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I'm in Portland, which seems to be heaven for used Volvos. When I lived in the south, there wasn't near as many to choose from. I've got a bunch of feelers out right now and I'm making a spreadsheet of cars I want to see. I'll probably be aiming to see some cars on Sunday and Monday, so I'll present what I have it narrowed down to beforehand. I'm really hopeful about a $800 1992 240 wagon. I swear to God, if that car works I'm getting it. For that price, it's hard to lose. I have a decent amount of savings and my family has a small income, but I'm as fixed income as it gets. Cheaper, especially when it's just for me to dick around town in, is always better. Thanks for the help and advice as well!
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Apr 22, 2020 01:07
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LloydDobler posted:I grew up in the outskirts of Portland, and I plan to move back there later this year. My dad ran a Volvo shop for 25 years, we're die hards. He's retired and old, and I want to wind down the clock with him. Mind if I ask you a question? Who is a good Volvo mechanic around here that isn't dealership levels of expensive? With my leg disability, I don't have any ability to do work on the car myself. I'm already factoring in repairs and maintenance being a thing with getting cars this old and high mileage. But if it throws an engine or transmission, I'm out!
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Apr 22, 2020 08:05
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I technically live in Portland, but I'm about a mile away from Gresham. I really appreciate knowing who to avoid. The internet is so overflowing with information now it can be a challenge to weed out the poo poo places. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but a 92 240 wagon is listed for $800. If I could get a functional old tank for that price I wouldn't give a poo poo if it needed some work.
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Apr 22, 2020 22:29
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I do have a question related to all the searches I'm doing. Do they make seat covers for the old style Volvos? I'm seeing a lot of 240s and 740s that seem ok (for their age) but have the driver's butt cushion basically exploded. I could give a poo poo how it looks, but I'm not wanting springs and foam to slowly invade my rear end.
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Apr 23, 2020 07:39
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LloydDobler posted:Swedish car parts makes them for 240s and even sells them on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Covers-Original-Upholstery-Interior/dp/B00STS5EHY Thanks for that link. With my leg disability, I'm not going to be going into junkyards and doing seat restoration projects myself. I'm looking for an easy fix and that is perfect. Hopefully I'll find one without a hosed seat, but half the listings I'm looking at have bad seat upholstery.
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Apr 24, 2020 03:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:The absolute newest 240s are 27 years old. Even on a museum-quality example, the foam itself is going to have aged a lot and will wear out very quickly with use. This is a perfect example of what I'm talking about. I'd just want something to put over a seat like that.
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Apr 24, 2020 07:37
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I'm an idiot. I had a link with a perfect example of the seat wear I'm running into - https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/portland-1991-volvo-940se-turbo/7110433934.html But again, thanks for all the good resources. I'm absolutely OK with having to put some money into such an old car, I'm just trying to avoid money pit situations. If paying 3k will get me something magnitudes better than 1-2k, I'll do it. I just cannot justify spending real big money on a car that's only purpose will be for me to fart around in.
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Apr 24, 2020 20:32
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LloydDobler posted:Do you want a 240 or a 740? My dad has a friend selling a really nice 240 and I know they'd take $3500 for it, but no lower. They're relatively local to you. Here's the ad. I appreciate the rec and have it in my bundle of cars to check on. It's a little bit over what I'm looking to spend, so I have some lower priced ones I'll probably be seeing first in the next few days. But I'll keep that in the mix. Goon recommendations rarely steer me wrong.
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Apr 25, 2020 17:58
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zundfolge posted:If you aren’t doing the work yourself you could easily spend $3000 fixing up a $1000 CL 240 and still not end up with a car as nice as that wagon, it looks to be very sorted out and has thoughtful upgrades where it counts. If it were closer and I hadn’t bought my ‘84 245 Turbo I would seriously consider it myself. I'm hearing that loud and clear. That car is on my list but it's not at the top yet with it being at the top of what I'm looking to spend. There is a guy nearby who is motivated to sell his, so I'm checking that out tomorrow. He already took $300 off his asking price. Is it a lemon? Infested with a family of aggressive weevils? Who knows! Bottom line, I'm a disabled guy who doesn't work at the moment. Our family (my father and I live together) has a nice car. I just need this car to be functional enough for me to have a social life. I'm looking to avoid majorly hosed things - engines, transmissions, that bullshit. My Volvo from a million years ago had transmission issues and in the middle of Tennessee that was a nightmare.
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Apr 27, 2020 03:20
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Got my search underway today and I've instantly moved the recommended Volvo higher up on my list. The car was functional, but Jesus it needed all sorts of little jobs done, jobs I can't do myself. But I'll say this - Driving a Volvo that was pretty close to my first car was like going back in time in the best way. I missed those ridiculous tank cars. Also, people sure are bad at telling you if dash lights are on before you get there. This one had, "ABS/Light/SDS" all lit up. Kinda wish I I got told that before I spent my time going out there.
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Apr 27, 2020 22:44
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Volvo Question - How often is the timing belt supposed to be replaced? I'm going through adverts on adverts and seeing a pretty wide range of "What's a timing belt? to "Timing belt replaced five minutes ago!" If my memory serves, the belts are one of the things that need regular work on Volvos.
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Apr 30, 2020 23:05
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Can you tell me a little about what a "white block" and "red block" indicate? I'm seeing some ads saying, "Timing Belt replaced at 130k!!!" but the odometer says 190k+. I'm guess I should avoid those?
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May 1, 2020 01:35
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When did Ford take over Volvo? Most of the cars that aren't obvious money pits are in the 94-04 year range. But there seems to be a distinct difference at some point between "looks like a nice, old school, blocky, Volvo" and "looks like every other car with a Volvo emblem on it." I'm guessing the change happens when Ford (or whoever) bought them? I'm frustrated,. There was a $1700 96' wagon that looked perfect. But it sold before I could go see it today. Last week there was an 87 740 GLE (the exact model I had in high school) for $1400 that sold before I could see it. Most of these cars are listed for weeks, right up until I try to buy it. The more I look, the more I'm willing to pay for a car. But I still think a cheap diamond in the rough is hiding somewhere.
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May 3, 2020 22:46
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Autoexec.bat posted:They were bought in 1999, you can tell pretty easily as the handles immediately changed to the cheaper ford ones and they discontinued all RWD cars right around the buyout. It's a shame, because I wouldn't mind a car that's a little less ancient. But gently caress, some of them just look like Fords with a hood bump.
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May 4, 2020 03:18
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I have another question. Thanks for putting up with me being a dumb rear end so far. OK, probably stupid question - Let's say I've got an 87', 97', and a 07' Volvo all in a similar price range and condition. Like I've mentioned, my legs have issues and I cannot work on the car myself. If I have a problem, it goes to the shop. Should I tend toward getting the newest Volvo possible? Or was there a specific time where the cars were higher quality and less problem prone? The whole Ford thing throws me for a loop. If I had my way, I'd get the oldest one I could. But I'm worried about a money pit situation when I just need something to get me from point A to B without catching fire if I get on the interstate. It's not going to be a road trip or work commute car. --------------------------------------- I know this isn't really Volvo specific, but I swear to God some people think selling a car is - - List car - Don't answer questions - Wait for someone to give you money without test driving There have been Volvos I'd have bought, if the people would loving respond past saying, "You want car?" and then strict radio silence when I ask something like, "How long have you owned the car?"
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May 6, 2020 22:10
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taqueso posted:Which model 07? This is the one that comes to mind - V70 Turbo https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/d/vancouver-2007-volvo-v70-25-turbo-wagon/7111990163.html But I've got about twelve I'm trying to call about. It's harder than you'd expect.
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May 6, 2020 22:18
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I don't want to spam this place with a bunch of listings, but once I've got it whittled down to some cars I'd actually buy I'll run them by you folk.
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May 6, 2020 22:43
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What do you mean by curved sheet metal? This is truly silly, but the once it gets into the 2000's the styling gets all...boring. I like the blocky tank aesthetic, but not enough to pay a shitload for it. I would have no problem making my car's sound system a Bluetooth speaker sitting in the passenger seat. I already play all my music through my phone.
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May 7, 2020 01:53
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I'm fixed income and share a condo we own with my father. I'm not flat broke, but I'm pretty close to it. Truth is, I could spend more than 3k. But for something that will literally just be a second car so I can have more of a social life, I have a hard time justifying the expense being much higher. I'm mentally telling myself I'll have to drop a grand in maintenance out of the gate and I'll consider myself lucky if it's less. I would be happiest with an old rear end, clean blocky Volvo. But I know that's getting into antique car territory. If I couldn't go Volvo, I'd still want European. I just like 'em, what can I say? Oh, here are the other two listings that made me ask my 07 vs 97 vs 87 thing. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/portland-1995-volvo-960-beautiful-car/7107212841.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/portland-1989-volvo-station-wagon-auto/7117244085.html Again, you all have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it. 
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May 7, 2020 03:12
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Awesome, that is the input I needed. I'm going to aim closer to the 97-07 range, because my legs preclude me from wrenching on my own car. Any repairs past replacing a burnt out tail light bulb will require a mechanic. By the way, my Volvo 87 740 GLE spoiled me as my first car. Replacing a tail light bulb was as easy as swapping a light in my home. When I got a Ford Focus as my poverty car out of college, doing loving anything was a nightmare.
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May 7, 2020 22:05
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I'd like to thank all you helpful people, because I bought a Volvo today! I found a 00' S40 with one owner, maintenance records for the life of the car on the Carfax, and 135k miles. It isn't the blocky beast I wanted, but every single one of those I drove had a host of issues. The car I bough needs one new headlight and is due for an oil change in 500 miles. I'll be taking it to a mechanic next week and getting all the maintenance up to date. He was asking $2350, I offered 2k and that was that. If it wasn't for the advice here, I would have got a much older car and likely hosed myself. This car had to lowest miles of anything I looked at, including much newer vehicles. So, I do have a question - The speakers are twenty years old and hosed. How much does it cost to get the speakers and the cassette deck knocked out for something newer? I'm trying to gauge if I'd rather buy a bluetooth speaker to shove under the seat or pay someone to put new poo poo in it. Good music piped in from my phone is a requirement for me.
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May 8, 2020 22:43
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always be closing posted:Post some pics that sounds like a sweet ride! I'll grab some once I have my leg braces on. Quick Question - It came with two keys, but one is pretty damaged. But it still looks like an original key. Today, my father went out to put my insurance paperwork in the glovebox. Well, we found out the car has a loving alarm the hard way. He went in through the passenger door when it went off. It isn't a keyless entry car. It's an '00 S40. Any idea how to deal with that alarm? I'd disable it if I could, the most valuable thing that's ever left unattended is a Garmin GPS. I've had my car broken into before and the GPS was left alone.
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May 10, 2020 22:34
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taqueso posted:If it's setup like the XC90, the alarm's horn bit is inside the front bumper on the passenger side :/ I just want to know what the gently caress sets it on and off if it doesn't have a key fob. Looks like it's time to read the manual. Oh boy.
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May 11, 2020 02:57
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NumbersMatching320 posted:Usually it's a little contact in the lock cyl that'll tell the module whether it's being unlocked with the key or by other means. So if it was last locked with the key or with the door open, if it doesn't see the next unlock done with a key it knows something is up. If that contact has a little shmoo on it from disuse (who uses a key on the pass door, like ever?) it would then think you're slim jimming it. It's going to the shop tomorrow for a general wellness check. I'll ask them why my Volvo likes to freak out for no reason. I'm tired of the old neighbors coming out acting like WWIII is kicking off.
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May 13, 2020 03:02
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Because we have been playing along at home, I thought I'd give an update - Took the car to a shop that was recommended to me by three different shops. Did my research and it has good reviews. The S40 was on sale for $2350. I got it for $2000, expecting it to need $1k or so in work because it's a twenty year old car. The shop says the engine, transmission, and computer are firing on all cylinders. Brakes are still good, tires are good, A/C and heat work, etc. It needed a lot of fluids changed, filters changed, some belts, some little things I've forgot, and a new headlight bulb. Unfortunately, it had a cracked...axel thing. It wasn't the axel itself, but something between the axel and the wheel. Repairs are going to cost me a little over 1k with almost half of that being the cracked axel thing. That's not counting the major belt job Volvos get every 105k miles, but I knew I was signed up for that when it was due. All in all, this car will cost me about $3200, which is exactly what I wanted to pay. Thanks, AI. I avoided some major money pit cars with your help and hopefully landed on a car that will serve me well. This car had the lowest miles of anything I looked at, so I'm hoping it doesn't explode into a ball of flames when I get it home next week. I promise to post pictures, but a white S40 is pretty dang boring. Question - I'm sorry to forget the exact name of it, but how much is reasonable to pay when it's time to replace the major belt system? Part of me wants to go ahead and get that over with, but I want to make sure the price I'd be charged is reasonable.
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May 15, 2020 22:20
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sharkytm posted:Scan and post the estimate. We'll evaluate the rate and charges, but it sounds reasonable for a good-quality shop. Cool, I will. I've had a lot of used cars over the years and everything they were doing sounded reasonably priced to my untrained ears. It was just the cracked axel cam thing that stung a bit. ($450ish) We are having a hard time finding when, or if, the big belt job has been done. That's the one thing I told them to hold off doing, if nothing else because I don't like telling a shop "Go Hog Wild" on my first repair visit. I'll get an estimate for it before I bring the car home.
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May 16, 2020 22:59
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Got my car back and I'm amazed. The shop quoted me $1250-$1500 to get everything fixed. Turned out they got it done for $1080. Steve's Automotive in downtown Portland sure appears to be quality people. In my entire life of driving used cars, I've never had a shop charge me less than the quote. For the timing belt, components, cam and crank seals, water pump, and coolant replacement/service they quoted me $1240. I'll have to get that done before too long. From what people have mentioned here, that seems reasonable. Pictures inbound when it stops loving storming. Thanks again for helping to guide me towards a good purchase. Without the advice here, I would have got an ancient Volvo and spent all my money paying people to fix it.
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May 19, 2020 22:31
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My Volvo has been at the dealer for a few days while they are trying to figure out the alarm gremlin. I want them to just disconnect the loving thing, but they have to figure out why it's going off. Their fear, which was the other shop's fear, is the battery is getting drained. My battery has gone from fully charged to throwing up warnings twice, apparently. I'm going to tell them to replace the battery. I've never had an old used car that didn't need a battery replacement in the first few months. This car had full maintenance records, including stamps and poo poo in the Volvo book, up to 95k. It looks like it wasn't getting much TLC from 95k to the current 137k. Based on the dealer recommendation, I'm probably going to go ahead and bite the bullet on the timing belt thing, too. After doing some reading and listening to the advice here, that sounds like a clusterfuck if it breaks. Currently at 3.2k into this car. Planning another 1.2k come timing belt time. If I've got a car under 150k miles for under 5k, I'm happy. loving alarm.
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May 31, 2020 02:38
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I just got my car back and remember I owe y'all a picture of the most boring Volvo ever. My 00 S40, in all its boring glory!  I ended up taking it to the dealer to solve the alarm problem. They had it for three weeks and ended up replacing my driver's side door lock for $380ish. I brought it home and the next morning, the alarm went off. I was majorly pissed and took it back. They disconnected the alarm horn and didn't charge me a cent. They told me there are no parasitic drains, no bad fuses, and the battery is good. It just seemed to have an alarm that freaked out for no diagnosable reason. The car wouldn't lock up or anything, the alarm just went bonkers. They told me there were repairs that could "fix" the problem, but I explained that this car isn't essential to getting me to and from a job. It only needs to work well enough for me to have a social life when the pandemic ends. Cheap fixes are better than having all the bits and bobs working. I want to keep using the dealer, because they have quoted the lowest prices for when it's time to do my timing belt/water pumps. With labor, they only want $950. They told me a still have a year or two left on my current belt, so I'm not in a hurry to do it. My goal was to have a functioning Volvo for $5k. I got the car for $2k and I'm currently at about $1.5k on repairs. For a 137k mile car, I'm very happy. That alarm problem was just super frustrating. Next, I'm going to fix the blown out sound system. But I'm immunosuppressed and not going to be driving it much for what looks like...a few years? Ugh. I know there is a sound system thread, but can I ask one quick question? If I want a quote on getting the head unit and speakers done, what shop is the go to for not getting ripped off? (Yes, I know Crutchfield exists and it isn't that hard to do myself, but I have limited mobility.) Captain Log fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Jun 27, 2020 |
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Jun 27, 2020 21:30
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captain chauncey posted:
Yeah, it's definitely a departure from the blocky beasts I've driven before. But thanks to this thread, I realized the blocky Volvos would have been more work than I was wanting to deal with. Every one I drove in my price range had some severe issues. I will still dream of having a 87 740 GLE again someday. Maybe I'll marry a mechanic?
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Jun 28, 2020 20:38
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First-gen S40 buddy. My 03 was my gateway drug into the world of Volvo - fiancee still drives it a couple times a week.
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Howdy, Volvo friends. I'm popping back into this unfamiliar forum to ask for a little advice. I've always loved Volvos, but I'm beginning to regret it. The History - As y'all may or may not recall, a while back I purchased a 2001 S40 with about 130k miles for $2k cash. I understood it would need some work, being a cheap car only meant to get me around Portland, Oregon. Our family has a main car (Hyundai '13 Tucson) that is very sound and would be used for anything important. I'm disabled, so my Volvo isn't used for a daily driver to a job. I put about a grand into to Volvo, fixing an axle and some other stuff. No problem, I expected it. It drove just fine, while not being the most luxurious car ever. It had a couple small repairs here and there, but nothing too big. But it made a lot of visits to the shop. It was due for the timing belt and water pump poo poo, which was about $1.2k. After talking to the mechanic at the dealership, which gave the engine and transmission a clean bill of health, I decided to do it. I figured I would drive it until the fucker fell apart, and the important stuff didn't have problems. It felt like I had fixed drat near every little thing I could, and the car surely would be sound for a while. I put less than 3k miles on it a year so far, it's not getting too stressed by my travel habits. Welp, after that, poo poo started going wrong. I'd have to go find the maintenance records I keep printed out, but it had some kind of bizarre gremlin with the battery that cost some money to fix. Then some other bullshit where the car alarm kept going off no matter what, to the point where it eventually had to be disconnected. Then, the brakes went out. I was sitting in a parking lot, and all of a sudden the brakes pedal shat itself and went straight to the floorboard. My brake fluid was suddenly empty, and I had to drive it home with the parking brake and not exceeding 30mph. Now, it's back at the dealer for what feels like the millionth time to figure out why my brakes suddenly died. Maybe it's nothing big, maybe it's the master cylinder, who the gently caress knows. The Request for Advice - As I mentioned, I'm disabled and do not have a job outside of the house. But I need a car to have a social life, as my other family member has a full time job and takes the main family car. This Volvo, right after I decided to do the timing belts and water pumps, is turning into a gremlin filled money pit. I won't know what's up with the brakes for a couple of days, but I'm expecting it will be something more than I want to pay. But unless it's ridiculous, I'll get them fixed just so I can sell for more than scrap. All that said, is it time to abandon this Volvo? I have enough money stashed away that I could upgrade to a "newer" car that would hopefully be less problematic. But if this one truly has low miles for being so old and a good transmission/engine, should I just stay the course? Are there Volvos in the 08'-14' range with a sub-$8k pricetage that wouldn't be a big headache to own? Like I mentioned, I accept older used cars need work. But I don't need a loving money pit. I know y'al like pictures, so here it is - 
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Jan 5, 2023 14:03
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LloydDobler posted:Sadly I know next to nothing about that generation and model. I do know the engine is the 4 cyl version of the whiteblock that we've all come to know and love and if you maintain the belts and coolant and oil seals they'll run forever. If you're actually going to a dealer you might save some money by going to an indy shop. They usually have better prices but not by much. But yeah these days being beholden to a mechanic is rough expense-wise. It's pretty easy to spend more than you paid for a cheap car lately. OTOH cheap cars have also become scarce. Thank you very much for taking the time for this kind response. I've also been in the Ask/Tell thread about getting a new-used car, and resoundingly told my sub-$8k budget isn't reasonable. But I've also got great advice from some people as well, so I cannot complain. GOOD NEWS!!! I found out a brake line blew. I'm not a car guy, so I'm not sure of the fine details. They replace the lines in pairs, and I got quoted $550. While that sucks, it's grossly less than I assumed I'd be paying. I'm going to try and speak directly to the mechanic when I pick it up on Tuesday, and get a better feel for if it's a rattletrap or not. Believe it or not, the dealership has been significantly cheaper than every shop that will work on a twenty year old Volvo. Sometimes to the tune of a couple hundred bucks. I also get coupons in the mail from them for the service department, so I'll probably walk with the repairs being closer to $500. A poster (Mototronic, maybe?) put it to me this way - There is maintenance and replacing consumables, which costs money but is a reasonable expenditure. Then there are repairs, like replacing a blown transmission and poo poo, which fall in the, "Should I ditch this?" column. So far, it's been a little a both. I'll keep y'all updated.
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Jan 8, 2023 13:44
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With my mobility issues limiting my ability to perform repairs myself and living on a fixed income, I know drat well an old Volvo isn't for me. But God drat, I still maintain the best driving car I've ever owned was the '87 740 GLE Sedan I had in high school. I bring it up because I was cleaning out my watch box and found the 1999 newspaper advertisement for what became my first car. This fucker has the best steering and cornering of anything, ever.  I grew up in the American south, where having a car as a teenager was a requirement. Sadly, this Volvo threw its transmission after a couple years. But my family helped to get it replaced. After a couple of years in college, it developed a problem that got it nicknamed, "The Rolling Failure." It was an automatic, but would stall itself out for the first ten to fifteen minutes of being turned on. I had to do laps around the parking circle at my little university, with the car constantly stalling out. Once it got warmed up, it was good for the day. It got sold for next to nothing to a mechanic, who apparently fixed it with a $100 part. In college, I worked full time, but room and board ate all the money. Which meant my family got to make the decisions on car repairs, and cut corners by sending it to three or four different mechanics who had shops with names like, "Big Jim's Car Repairs and Raw Shrimp Shop!!! WE BUY GOLD!!!" Had it gone to an actual shop, they probably could have figured it out before it got sold for nothing to someone who easily fixed it. Despite its gremlins, I still miss the thing. Captain Log fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jan 10, 2023 |
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Jan 10, 2023 14:49
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Irritating Repair Question for my 2001 Volvo S40 - I need two people to pop the hood. When I pull the latch, the hood doesn’t pop up by itself. I have to pull the hood latch, while someone else pulls up and triggers the latch next to the grille. I want to buy a little jump starting module, because I don’t trust the car. But if I cannot pop my own hood, the module would be useless. Is that an easy fix? Or should I just pay for it next time I get the oil changed?
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Jan 31, 2023 18:29
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builds character posted:You want something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dumble-Jumper-Connect-Cables-Trucks/dp/B07LFLG99R Nah, I'm talking about one of those little battery packs that hooks up to your battery. I've seen two different towing services use them over the years and found out they're only about a hundred bucks. LloydDobler posted:It's supposed to have a spring of some sort that pops it up. On the other cars of that era, it's actually a little rubber bumper that falls out so the hood stays where it is instead of popping up. Gotcha. I'll do some poking around under there and see if there is anything obviously wrong. I managed to source a rear taillight fixture thing for thirteen bucks when the dealership wanted $250, so I might have some luck. But if it looks like a pain to install, my bad legs means I'll be paying the dealership to do it.
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Feb 1, 2023 13:54
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builds character posted:Right, the first cable can be permanently attached to your battery and then the end can be left out where you can reach it by pushing it through the grill or similar and then you won't have to open the hood to jump start your car. But, I agree the fix is really fixing the hood latch. Huh, I'll be damned. Didn't know that was a thing and might have to do that, once the more important fix is complete.
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Feb 2, 2023 00:47
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LloydDobler posted:I just looked at my build thread for my C70. Until now I have never owned a car long enough to hit the time interval on the timing belt. I've put about 45k miles on the car since building it but I installed the timing belt on 12/4/2012. Didn't start driving it until April of 13 though due to ARD tuning triggering the immobilizer on 2 different ECUs. God that was frustrating. But yeah, I just passed ten years of ownership on this specific car, in addition to the 5 years on the previous identical car that donated the motor, suspension, and interior. I hear you on wanting to spend money on a low yearly mileage Volvo. If money was no object, I'd want a late 80's 740 GLE with all the money dumped into it. While I've learned my lesson with my S40, being that a budget car for a disabled person is not a Volvo, I will always love them. If I was stupid, I'd buy this 850 today. (I'm not stupid, but I can dream.) https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/portland-1993-volvo-850/7580867093.html
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Feb 11, 2023 13:19
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LloydDobler posted:For future reference, never buy a '93 850. It's the first year and has tons of unique components for some reason, including 4 lug wheels. Like the headlights and all associated trim around them is unique. '94-97 is all the same, and much of the chassis is compatible through 2000, with some parts compatibility even through 2004 due to the C70. Oh, I wouldn't dream of setting my money on fire buying this. I just dream of having that boxy style of old Volvo as my daily driver. Well, I dream of having one with a mechanic who can stop by twice a day and replace God only knows what poo poo would go wrong.
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Feb 11, 2023 14:17
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 18:52 |
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You’re thinking about painting your entire Volvo and not going with a light pink or deep purple? Shameful.
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Feb 12, 2023 18:09
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