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I’m in the market for a new (used) car, and rather than take the insurance payout from my dead 2004 CRV and just put it all into buying something of the same vintage with cash, my family is strongly encouraging me to instead look for something much more recent (ie finance a $10-25k car that’s <5 years old instead of buying a $5-10k car from 2006 with cash) So with that in mind I might as well follow my automotive crush dreams and look at a whole mess of used GTIs, right? 1) anything big I should be aware of going in? Model years/equipment trims to be avoided? Notable areas of wear and failure to look at in used specimens? 2) I know that at some point in the last five years (2017? 2018?) the optional 3) anything I should look for in terms of drivetrain/transmission health? What about mileage? I’d be looking at manuals, natch, and I’ve always heard horror stories about preowned stick shifts being sold or traded in by inexperienced owners who decided that manual wasn’t for them after they put 100k miles-worth of damage and wear on their transmission in <10k miles. I have a good handle on feeling clutch health, etc in a vague sense but I have no idea how I’d meaningfully assess that in the context of buying a recent model year used car. TLDR I’m afraid of buying a car that feels good for the first couple of months before the clutch fails like a year into ownership thanks to previous owner abuse. 4) I’m seeing a surprising amount of price variation—A lot of that is obviously trim package/autobahn vs plaid/etc but it’s weird to see 2018s with <50k on the odometer priced at $19k and 2019s with similar mileage going for $32k with a couple of weirdo outliers (2017 80k miles, wants $23 grand). Is that just the market being itself during a particularly churny time or is there something else I’m missing here? 5) are y’all happy with your GTIs? How have they been holding up long-term? My family have kind of a history of being “Honda+VW people” so I have many fond memories of electric gremlins, complaints about expensive repairs, and the like. I’ve always wanted a GTI, but I also want a car that I can count on putting 200k+ miles on without it turning into an expensive lemon. Edit: I meant Performance Pack* trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jun 9, 2021 |
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Jun 9, 2021 16:50
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Ok so. I think I want a GTI. I think I want a manual GTI. With the Plaid. I think I’m going to go out and shop for a car, and when I do so, I will be looking for GTIs and I’m ready to stop looking for other cars. The question now is which GTI? And how do I find the right one? My budget is ideally $20k or less. Preferably even under $18k. Basically I’ve got a down payment of ~$8k between insurance payout on my old car and budgeted cash and I’d like to finance in the ballpark of $10k, but less is always better and a little more could potentially be put out for the right car. TLDR, I’m looking at cars as cheap as $13k and as expensive as $20-21k with a goal to stay ideally in the $15-19k range. I’m seeing a lot of private sellers that I don’t know how to assess and a lot of dealerships that inspire differing levels of confidence. How old? Should I look for Performance Pack? Should its absence be a dealbreaker? Should I stick to cars made post-2017? Post-2018? Should I pick a higher mileage car (70k, 90k, 110k) that’s newer and/or has PP features vs, say, a 2015 or 2016 with <50k miles that doesn’t look like it has those add-ons? What about 2014 if the miles are good (<60k) and the price is under $15 grand? Should I just prioritize cheapness and good health/maintenance and forget about buying *the best GTI* with *the right options* and then add stuff like a LSD or tune in the aftermarket space on my own? I’m in New England, and just a cursory search online is leading me to understand that 1) I’d have to find a shop to do it, and not everybody will 2) the parts on their own are about $1k, the labor is anywhere from $1-2k on its own, and usually it’s done with a clutch job or bigger tune bc it involves opening up the transmission (so probably expect to spend anywhere from $2.5-$4k depending on total work being done). It feels like there’s so many variables. Like I could buy a car that’s got what I want and is/isn’t beat to poo poo and I could also spend more like $15k or more like $20k and it’s really a crapshoot. Also we’re talking about cars that are located like all over the northeast. Is it even worth going through all of that trouble? Could I just find a “good enough” car in my area and sign some paperwork and be done with it? I don’t even know how much better the PP is vs just the bone-stock GTI and I don’t really have the means or time to extensively test drive those differences.
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Jun 18, 2021 23:00
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VelociBacon posted:Do the stock GTIs not have an LSD? I thought even my 07 GTI had an LSD. AFAIK, with the Mk6 and Mk7 it was an optional add-on via the fabled Performance Pack, which was later also spun off into a Sport trim level in 2017 (those seem to be pricier than avg) that slotted between the base S and more luxe SE (leather interior, etc). Then in 2018 those Sport/Performance Pack features (LSD, bigger brakes, upgraded cooling, 10+ hp) were made standard. The problem is that all of the 2018/2019/2020 cars start to get out of my budget fast. Like I might be able to justify going to $21 or $22k max but I can’t afford $24k+ to say nothing of a brand new one.
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Jun 18, 2021 23:17
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I should add that the market is looking super stupid right now. Like, if I go on autotrader and set my max budget to $22k then the most expensive car I get at $21900 is a 2016 S with 29k miles. And that seams dumb when I can find five 2016s and five more 2017s between $15 and $19k and between 30k and 95k miles, and there doesn’t appear to be much rhyme or reason as to why one costs $16k and the other costs $18,999 beyond “that’s what they decided to list it as”. I think I’m starting to conclude that I should get the car that inspires the most confidence while also being new enough and as inexpensive as possible and gently caress everything else. If I get something like a 2016 or 2017 in the ~60k miles range and spend more like $16 grand instead of $21 grand on a lower-mileage car/car with the add-ons, then I can plan on doing a clutch replacement+LSD upgrade when it hits 100k or something like that. every pre-2018 that has “PERFORMANCE PACK ADDED” in the listed features is automatically a minimum of $23k and I don’t want to pay that much. When I totaled the drat CRV my original plan was to spend $10k all-in.
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Jun 18, 2021 23:39
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VelociBacon posted:Ah, this one is the Highline package or whatever so I guess it has it. Certainly feels like it. we’ll be back in the Highline again all the doors we closed one time will open up again
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Jun 19, 2021 01:31
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:agree with this. you're very unlikely to actually add an LSD, because adding a LSD adds significant cost down the line. It also will not benefit you if you want to resell the car. My budget was ~$10k when I originally planned to buy a car cash and not finance it at all, which isn’t a plan I entertained for very long. Once I had a range of car in mind (recent hatchback or crossover, <6 years, decent amenities and interior, well-rated, enjoyable enough to drive) and started looking at the usual suspects (Mazda, Honda, VW, Subaru, etc) it became clear that I was gonna be spending between $15 and $20k no matter what right now. So then it became natural to ask “well can I just get a GTI for around that much?”
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Jun 19, 2021 22:46
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Ok Comboomer posted:I’ve finally sat down and run the financials with a pro and come up with a range of what I’m willing to spend. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 05:12
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) at the highest end of my price range ($25k), but it is nifty. Also some less expensive 2019 SEs and IIRC maybe one S in the $20-24k range.
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So- unless somebody buys one of these large German boys out from under me in the next 48 hrs, I’m between a 2017 SE (Perf Pack/Lighting Pack, Sunroof, Leather, fancy Fender radio, NO DRIVER SAFETY FEATURES) for $23k and a 2019 Rabbit Edition for $25k with the plaid seats that I think look cool (this isn’t a dealbreaker, worst case scenario I toss a plaid blanket in the passenger seat of the SE), paint color and wheels that I like better (white vs black paint, black Rabbit wheels vs regular, again not really a dealbreaker). The big sticking point for me is that the Rabbit has the newer driver safety package which includes automatic braking/front collision warning, lane warning, and adaptive cruise control. Also it has the basic, but newer head unit + less good radio. I’ve come really dig the adaptive/radar cruise on my rental Corolla and it’s definitely a feature I’d like. Most critically, I feel I’ve become kind of paranoid about the automatic braking and sensor beeping poo poo. If I’d had it in the CRV I wouldn’t have crashed it, full stop. Am I being a weird bitch? Like, not only is the Rabbit pricier to buy, it’s $20 a month more expensive to insure. In “total monthly payment” (loan+insurance) terms it’s like a $70 difference, which isn’t exactly chump change. It should be obvious that the 2017 is the better choice. But I’m scared that 1) the sunroof is gonna be a pain point 2) I’m gonna crash it without the fancy electronic nannies. It’s totally irrational, and based entirely on my recent experience crashing, but I guess I’m just curious as to what you’d do in my situation.
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Jun 21, 2021 21:39
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Uthor posted:For me, $2k over the life of the car to have the one that you seem to like better and has the features you want seems like a no brainer. Styles Bitchley posted:You're not being irrational, you're weighing the tradeoffs of features you have interest in. So you'll have to answer your own question as it's mostly preference. Now I’m seeing posts from people saying that the auto-braking erroneously kicked in when they went over a metal plate, etc. Some people saying that they almost got rear-ended when their car erroneously stopped on them.
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Jun 21, 2021 23:02
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flightless greeb posted:I just hate auto braking in general. I had it in my crappy rogue and it would freak out if I passed someone who had just turned out of my lane too close. The VW was less sensitive and annoying than that at least. The Mercedes I have now will slam on the brakes even if I'm already braking which is insanely annoying also like dude I've got it lol Updates from Hot Hatch Thread: Ok Comboomer posted:The MX5 has a much better shifter than, say, the Mazda3. People were talking about it ITT like a week ago when I first brought up my car situation. Deviant posted:hello yes i would like to pay your mother for a pair of VW plaid pillows Ok Comboomer posted:if y’all are serious that could probably be arranged. The fabric isn’t cheap (~$80 a linear yard) but my mom’s a wicked good (hobbyist) seamstress
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Jun 22, 2021 05:42
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New update because I can’t sleep. I was looking over the Carfax for one of the 2017s I’m gonna be taking a look at and generally it seems reaally good: full maintenance schedule, no accidents, one owner....and then we get to the last week of May of this year and: Vehicle serviced -Maintenance inspection completed - Catalytic converter replaced - Drivability/performance checked -Turbocharger replaced/repaired This was at about 41.5k miles, and the car’s currently at ~42k. It’s about 10k miles lower and about $1-2k cheaper than the next cheapest non-S 2017, but the dealership is good+trustworthy (not VW, big area Honda dealer tho) and they have a “market price” policy that generally has their list prices lower than avg, so that isn’t entirely surprising nor unwelcome. Should I be concerned by this carfax or pleased? Does it sound like a good deal, or a lemon disguised as one? I can’t shake the feeling that this car’s a bit too good to be true and that its price/mileage ratio compared to other exemplars might be due to some dodgy history, even if it’s only like a grand cheaper. Like is all of this work being done just a normal thing that sometimes happens, and whomever buys this car next dodged a bullet by having these repairs/replacements done by the PO? or is this evidence of past tuning or modding? Rough driving and abuse? Could a car with a history like this have other, more serious damage to the motor? The only times I’ve ever heard of cars with low mileage getting their turbos and cats replaced like that it’s usually been accompanied with comments like “the shop said they found metal shavings in the engine oil” and IDK that I really want to be the second owner of a car like that. Rather than looking at this and being like “oh sweet! Brand new turbo+cat plus recently-sorted and inspected car!” I’m concerned that the car went through all of that work a month ago at 41k and was then immediately sold or traded in by the previous owner because of some secret issue with it.
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Jun 22, 2021 09:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I also suspect mods and probably wouldn't wanna deal with that smoke, especially since there's another car that better matches your preferences that hasn't been touched. well, I haven’t seen the maintenance records or carfax for the other car(s) so let’s not make any assumptions yet. Also- am I weird for being excited about hill assist? The one thing about regularly driving stick that I could absolutely do without is having to deal with catching the car from rolling back during stop-and-go traffic on inclined and elevated highways (such as what one might find on I-93 coming out of Boston). Like for all that purists online seem to hate it as unnatural or coddling or whatever (and I tend to agree, in an abstract sense) it seems like a solid gold QoL feature when you’ve been sitting in the Big Dig at a 25 degree angle for half an hour, shuffling forward 10 feet at a time.
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Jun 22, 2021 15:02
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Is 80k miles too many miles for ~$20 grand (2017 SE)? I’m seeing cars in the 50-70k range for $22-24k and I’m asking myself if the 15-20% difference is worth 30k miles. 80k is very close to 100k and it’s kinda wigging me out, but I’m not going to stretch my budget past, say $25k (which is where a lot of the <50k cars are) just for lower miles if the car is otherwise healthy.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:46
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VelociBacon posted:What is rear assist? The car screams at you that you’re about to be rear-ended so you can, like, prepare I guess.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:47
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nitsuga posted:That seems to be about the going rate in the market conditions we're in currently (which aren't great). I don't think the mileage should be too much cause for concern if the car has been maintained and otherwise taken care of. An inspection is always a good idea. I'd open your search up to Carvana, Shift, and the like if you haven't already too. I don't see anything jumping out at me right now, but new stuff gets put up every day. The problem I’ve been having with Carvana/Vroom/etc is that p much any GTI with the features I want gets bought immediately
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Jun 23, 2021 12:27
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One of the cars I’m looking at is a 2016 SE w/ Perf Pack. 80k miles for $18k, one of the less expensive cars I’ve seen although slightly higher in miles than I’d like, but that’s kind of where my budget is unless I want to start spending $26k+ all-in. Quite clean, passed all its inspections and poo poo, good maintenance schedule + carfax, drives well...so far so good aside from an aftermarket spoiler adhered to the factory spoiler (it was done well and shouldn’t be difficult to remove with the right solvent + 25 min of elbow grease) and a relatively tasteful and restrained aftermarket exhaust/catback. If I can save like $1-2 grand over the next most similar car (2017 SE, ~75k miles, fresh brake rotors, new 2021 rims on it that look sweet, but probably wouldn’t have been my first choice, they want like $20k for it) I’ve seen of late, should I be open minded about it? Or should I walk away just on the principle that it has mods? I figure if I really hate the muffler I can get a stock one for ~$100 and the labor can’t be prohibitively expensive right? Is this a decent idea to save some coin or am I playing with fire? Like even throwing $2k into fixing up whatever this car might need (doesn’t seem like it needs very much at all) vs spending that money on a similar car from another dealer seems like a decent idea right? The car wasn’t excessively tarted up- just the exhaust and spoiler. Still a red flag? Edit: also wondering if I should just avoid a 2016 for the turbo failure issues. Although if/when it goes I can take the money saved and replace it. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 11:24
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Ok. Ok scratch the previous post. I just saw a 2017 GTI Sport, with OEM Clubsport muffler and intake to make it sound like Rice Krispies, but subtly and tastefully. Impeccably clean, long/detailed service record, 87k miles for ~$19500. No extra fees, they’re replacing the front bumper after I pointed out a crack in the trim. ~$21500 all-in with taxes, delivery, plates, etc. Best car I’ve seen within my budget. So I put down a refundable deposit. Why not, I say. Worst case Ontario, I tell ‘em nah on Monday and they put $500 back on my credit card. Well now I got my dad yelling at me on the phone telling me that it’s “way too many miles, and way too many miles for $20 grand” and that I should finance $4-5k more to get something with fewer miles, like between 40 and 60k. Thoughts? I spent all week looking at cars in the 50-80k range and getting all-ins of $24.5, $25, $26k- which is a few thou more than I wanted to spend. Like even if I have to do a clutch job or any number of other things in the emergent future, it would still be less than the ~$4k I’m saving, right? Like if the car is otherwise in excellent shape? Anyway am I being dumb or should I just buy this car? I can afford a bit more, I’d be comfortable all-in in the $23-24k range but I don’t wanna keep chasing cars like this to gain 10k/20k miles for $2-3 thousand if the gain is more academic than practical, while paying $250/week at this point for a rental, and with the market doing what it’s doing, etc. Plus the insurance premium is lower, right? This is the closest to getting everything that I want in terms of trim, etc. I didn’t think I’d like the exhaust but it’s OEM and done at a dealer. I just don’t want to buy a car that will deteriorate faster/sooner or need a bunch of work. I plan to put a lot of miles on it (15-20k/yr), but I’m coming from two very clean high-mileage cars that I took to ~200k so high miles don’t really phase me. The SE I saw yesterday had an all-in of $24,500 and it had 79k miles, and this is undoubtedly a better deal for me. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 22:21
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Suburban Dad posted:The thread can not make this decision for you. I’m not asking them to. I’m simply asking if a car with 87k miles on it seems like a bad idea vs spending more for something less well-traveled
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Jun 26, 2021 01:42
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Murgos posted:I think you need to expect that you are going to put another $5k in it over the next 100k miles. If you’re cool with that then there you go. Yes that I expected.
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Jun 26, 2021 02:25
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TheBacon posted:As for mods, if they are in your taste they could be nice, agree with wherever said if they are some cheap bad taste stuff, I would be mostly turned off from the car The dude p much cobbled together his own Clubsport. He added the Clubsport S muffler, a relatively understated intake upgrade, Euro OEM taillights, and the bigger, higher res Euro MIBII display. Also 2019(?)/2020 wheels and some kind of dealer-optioned aftermarket radio/sub that sounds good. And a clear hood protector + bumper protector and some very tiny, practically unnoticeable mudflaps. Pretty much waiting for this dude to show up ITT
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Jun 26, 2021 03:05
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TheBacon posted:Actually on that note, have you looked into like long term rentals to be able to punt this maybe a few months? And see what happens this fall? I’m not sure it will really ultimately save you quite that much depending how much that would cost but another thing to maybe explore. you’re asking me to spend like three grand more on a rental (and basically blow my budget no matter what) to wait until the fall in order to see “if the market improves” when literally everybody’s been saying for weeks that it shows no signs of getting better? And if cars aren’t cheaper in September what do I do then, after I’ve spent the extra money?
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Jun 26, 2021 11:30
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Tyro posted:Rentals are totally hosed right now for the same reason that the car market is. I looked into a 2 month car rental a few months ago and the cheapest i could find was $2600 for 60 days for a shitbox. I’m paying $260 a week right now.
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Jun 26, 2021 15:46
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MunchE posted:The market is redonkulous right now and paying 20k for a compact car nearing 100k miles is wild, my Focus ST was $21k new out the door. Right now is about the worst time to be in a "gotta buy now" mindset so you're probably going to lose your rear end either way but at least with new car financing your interest rate won't suck Right now I can pay ~$27k for a GTI with like 20k miles on it. New we’re talking $30k+ across the board. If I want something in the 40-50k range I’m going to have to pay $24-25k, regardless of warranty status/year. That seems equally dumb to me in some respects, I don’t get any of the warranty benefits and I gain 1-2 years of hypothetical miles at 15-20k/year. Styles Bitchley posted:No. What would you buy and how much would you spend? My max budget all-in is $25k and I know what model/trim level I want. Not really interested in a 2017 S for $23k. And I can’t afford to wait, or buy a car somewhere else and fly to it, no matter how many times some of y’all tell me to.
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Jun 27, 2021 01:14
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I would absolutely buy something cheaper and drive it for a few years until the market gets better, which it will, eventually. It sounds like you're already stretching to buy this car. cool, guess I’ll just pull the trigger on this ‘15 Fit with a similar number of miles on it for $9k and then get a GTI in 2026 Joking aside, how do ppl feel about such as Veloster Turbos and FIT Sports and Civic Sports and whatnot? Looks like I can also get a FiST p much new for like 16-17k. Edit: wait a minute....https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 28, 2021 |
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Jun 28, 2021 02:34
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I found a DSG Sport with 30k miles, super clean, super stock, $21k. Night Blue Metallic. Didn’t think the DSG would do me right until I spent a weekend test driving Mazda3s and decided that a fast auto with fun flappy paddles makes more sense as a commuter right now. We’re in love and we’re getting married. ✌🏼 Now I get to call the other place and cancel that deposit.
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Jun 29, 2021 00:07
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Ok Comboomer posted:I found a DSG Sport with 30k miles, super clean, super stock, $21k. Night Blue Metallic. Didn’t think the DSG would do me right until I spent a weekend test driving Mazda3s and decided that a fast auto with fun flappy paddles makes more sense as a commuter right now. We’re in love and we’re getting married. ✌🏼 Cancelled that deposit. Unfortunately I’m just not financially in a place, and the market isn’t in a place, where I can comfortably afford the GTI that I really want without shelling way too much in monthly payments, and I’m not really keen on spending $24k when all is said and done on a 2017 GTI, that while very nice, isn’t really the one that I want either. I keep looking at the 7.5 refreshes and thinking how much nicer they look than the 7’s, and how much I’d rather have one of those, and everybody with a used one that has less than 50k miles on it wants like $30 grand for it. In two or three years, after the Mk8 has come to America (its fugly btw), the bubble will hopefully have long-ago burst, and lots of 2019s and 2020s and 2021s will be on the market for reasonable sums. Or at least they’ll cost way less than they do now. Or I’ll end up in a hotted up Civic, the new redesign looks gorgeous. In the meantime, I can pay like $5-10k less and get a well sorted-to-certified Mazda3 with a plush-rear end interior that will coddle me through the rough streets of Eastern Massachusetts. I can save a grand or two by going with a stick, but I’m wondering if it’ll become a pain after a while. I should just get an auto and then get around to dumping $2k into my e36 just to get it drivable again.
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Jul 1, 2021 16:54
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The other thing too is that I blew one of the Pirelli P-Zeros on the GTI during my test drive, while going over a manhole cover, because it’s got big, lovely, option rims on it. They’re loud on the road too. And for the last 48 hours all I’ve been thinking is how the very first thing I’d wanna do to the car is drop another $1500 replacing the wheels. And it’s just kinda turned me off on the whole thing.
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Jul 1, 2021 17:32
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TheBacon posted:As a bit of a ramble, but I think if you are a stick person it would be worthwhile to get the stick, but as a sensible alternative to save money, absolutely think that is a very good call. You may want to come out of it sooner rather than later though if the market returns to some modicum of reason. Idk, I think I’m still leery from the year I drove Lyft, in Boston of all places, after I’d left my horrible charter school job and gone back to grad school. I got really really good at driving stick, and making it feel like an auto and all that, but I also really started to hate it after a while, and eventually I developed tendinitis in my left knee. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jul 1, 2021 |
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Jul 1, 2021 18:06
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The only manuals available in the trim I want are either four hours away for $1500 less and double the miles (and not CPO), or a year newer and $2k more expensive with 50% more miles (and not CPO). Think I’m gonna end up with an auto when all is said and done. Thinking of this more of like a touring car than anything else. Plus I got the E36 languishing.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:36
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nitsuga posted:A manual would be tough to give up, but tendinitis and lack of availability would certainly make me think about an automatic. Is the E36 a manual at least? of course it is
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Jul 1, 2021 23:29
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Murgos posted:Lol at driving on Boston roads without tire insurance. is that what you call it when you replace your 18s with 17s? And only because you can’t fit 16s around your brakes?
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Jul 2, 2021 05:20
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Ihmemies posted:I am selling my 1999 A6 with 336000km's. Asking 2000€ with summer and winter tyres. Someone is coming to "look at it" tomorrow 🤷♂️ Reckless driving, speeding, or dui?
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Jul 14, 2021 05:22
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Ihmemies posted:I guess in USA police has a lot more space to make different kinds of judgements. In Finland things are done by the book, and the book says exactly what the penalty from different crimes while driving are. yeah, that's....that's one way to put it
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Jul 14, 2021 18:55
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TheBacon posted:Lmao wow ya For real. Ihmemies in USA the cop might've ignored you, or hi-fived you and asked you about your mods, or given you a warning like TheBacon got, or fabricated evidence to get you a harsher penalty, or simply written you up for one because he was feeling like an rear end in a top hat and it's your word against his, or insisted that you were DUI, or planted drugs in your car, or simply shot you to death
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Jul 14, 2021 19:25
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:if you were in Virgina you would have gone directly to jail. or been shot, who knows 
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Jul 14, 2021 20:20
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Suburban Dad posted:New cars cost too much goddamn money. don't look at used cars right now
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Jul 16, 2021 14:46
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wish we'd gotten the mk5/6 Cabrio here....and the GTI version that IIRC Europe got
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Jul 25, 2021 04:08
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I was reminded yesterday that the European 1-series (ie the American 2-series) is/was a hatch, including the M135i/M235i/M140i/M240i
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Aug 2, 2021 20:04
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TheBacon posted:My understanding is that is a completely different car and platform considering that’s a FWD based car. oh yeah that’s right
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Aug 2, 2021 20:28
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hellotoothpaste posted:Picked up a 2021 VW Atlas Cross Sport, and saw they have a fancier instrument panel (all digital) and a swipey button steering wheel to go with it. Does anyone know if that’s a swapout set of parts, or is that a stupid question? why didn’t you just get a used Cayenne?
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Aug 4, 2021 00:13
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