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The front passenger power window has stopped working on my 98 Jetta TDI. When you press the up/down button you can hear a faint click from the door; one click when you press the button and one click when you release it, and the lights dim slightly if the engine is off. Any chance you can diagnose it just based on that?
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May 3, 2010 22:25
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 23:36 |
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my1999gsr posted:I can somewhat diagnose this. It sounds like your window regulator assembly (which is a system of pulleys and cables) is in the middle of destroying itself. The only way to be sure is to take the inner door trim panel and inner door panel off and have a look at the mechanism to see what's going on. I've done this countless times for broken window clips and replacing door latches so that's the first step I take when the door motor isn't working as it should. If you'd like some instructions on how to do that I can help you - it's not hard just time-consuming the first time you do it. This probably won't help you, but the window stopped working in the exact same way in the winter of 08/09, then fixed itself in the summer of 09 and worked flawlessly, and then started having this behavior again this winter. Thankfully it was up when it stopped working, both times.
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May 4, 2010 08:48
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my1999gsr posted:Actually this does help. When the regulator assembly is going/gone it will never fix itself. Does the master window switch on the driver's side operate the passenger window or does it not work the same as the passenger door window switch? Edit: Actually went out to my car to verify things. The behavior is exactly the same when using the drivers side window control (of the passenger window) and the passenger side control. When you press the control, either up or down, there's a click sound from the door, followed by another click sound about a second later or when the button is released - whichever comes first. So if you just tapped the button, it would be a rapid fire click-click. If you hold the button, it sounds almost like the tick tock of a clock, with one tick and a slightly different sounding tick about a second later. If the car is off, there's enough current draw to slightly dim the dome light for exactly the time from the first click to the second click. If you hold the button down, there's no sign of significant current draw after the second click. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 21:52
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A.C.A.M. posted:Crunchy shifts. Echoing what my1999gsr said about the hydraulic system, my friend had a similar problem with his Ford Contour, and it ended up being a bad master or slave cylinder (I forget which).
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May 6, 2010 01:54
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On the turbo idling thing: a lot of why you don't have to idle turbo VW's is the fancy oils they use. Cheaper oils will break down if they're left in a hot turbo with no circulation. I don't usually idle my 98 TDI before shutdown, but in the rare occasion that I'm stopping immediately after going 40+ MPH I will.
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Jul 23, 2010 05:16
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Excuse my ignorance, but what does an RF module do?
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Sep 14, 2010 07:50
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My 98 Jetta TDI is leaking (what I assume is) diesel from the engine whenever it's running. I think it would be easiest to tell you where it's leaking from by telling you what it's near. On the side of the engine facing the front of the car, kind of near the top, there's a series of little braiding hoses going from injector(?) to injector all the way down the line. I've had those wear out and leak before, but the new leak is slightly below that. So slightly below that, there's a black plastic(?) thing that goes down to a little metal thing that looks kind of like a nut and goes into the engine. It's kind of bubbling up from where one of those meets the engine. That description was so lovely, I'll post a picture.  Click here for the full 1394x933 image. So what can/should I do about this leak?
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Sep 16, 2010 07:33
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Pipkin posted:Its probably leaking where the nozzle screws to the injector body or the washer that seals the injector to the head (most likely). Either way the injectors need to be taken out. If they are still the original nozzles and you have more than 100k miles on it they should be replaced anyway, along with the washers. They wear out, the fuel doesn't atomize as well anymore, hot spots in the bowl in the piston can happen and things can get all melty. So, my nozzles do need to be replaced, but I think where it's leaking from is actually a glow plug?
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Sep 16, 2010 17:55
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my1999gsr posted:The fuel is pooled around the base of the glow plug but it looks like there's fuel all over the area. Maybe shampoo the area and see exactly where the leak originates and go from there. Yeah, I removed the glow plug, put it back in, and then realized that it was just one of the fuel hoses running above that was leaking. Oh well, I'll be all set if any of my glow plugs goes bad.
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Sep 17, 2010 07:52
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Regarding chipping TDI's, most people at TDIclub seem to go with either Rocket Chip or Upsolute brands. I have a Rocket Chip and I love it, but I don't have an evidence to suggest it'd be better than the same level Upsolute. There's also companies that do custom tuning, but that's really for people that are upgrading their injectors/turbos/exhausts. idparts.com has injector nozzles on sale right now.
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Sep 23, 2010 21:39
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I think torque steer is always to one side. My 98 Jetta TDI always pulls to the right under hard acceleration (insert low HP joke here). I could be wrong though.
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Dec 12, 2010 11:08
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I've been pretty happy with my 98 Jetta TDI so far. Happy enough that I'm considering upgrading to a 2002 or 2003 TDI in the future. But if Honda/Toyota sold a Diesel in this country I'd be all over it.
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Feb 1, 2011 19:35
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I've got a 98 Jetta TDI. Can you look up the part number for the rubber cover for the viewing window thing on top of the transmission? The one that lets you look at the clutch/flywheel. I seem to have lost mine at some point.
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Feb 17, 2011 07:21
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$4k
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Feb 17, 2011 22:59
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my1999gsr posted:I can look but you're better off just calling your local wrecker/salvage yard - they'll likely just give you one for free. How much do you think it would cost for a new one?
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Feb 19, 2011 01:54
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my1999gsr posted:$4-$10 depending on if it's even still available in your region - it was back-ordered when I had my parts dept. look it up. Can you tell me what it would be called?
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Feb 20, 2011 08:14
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I drive a 98 Jetta TDI, and I love it. I keep track of the fuel every time I fill up, and my lifetime average since buying the car is 43 MPG - which includes a lot of city driving, short winter trips, 80+ MPH, and general driving the car like I stole it. You might consider picking up a 2002 or 2003 (they put in a more powerful but less fuel efficient engine in 2004) Golf/Jetta TDI. They only make 90 HP stock, but you can get a tuning chip for a few hundred dollars and/or bigger fuel injectors for a few hundred dollars. Do that and maybe put on a better exhaust, and you'll have more than 200 ft-lbs of torque. It turns into a pretty snappy car to drive, even if it's not going to win many drag races. Even with these mods, you'll still get 50MPG on the highway.
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Mar 31, 2011 20:39
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Billy Tully posted:except that the races have to be pressed in (and out if you are reusing the drum). Billy Tully and I confused the hell out of an auto parts worker once when we showed up looking for a "race driver".
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May 19, 2011 23:35
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poo poo. Started my 98 Jetta TDI up today and a light in the shape of a thermometer was blinking on the dash. Shut her down and looked under the hood and the coolant was well below the minimum. (To be clear, I didn't overheat, the car was just warning me of low fluid). I guess I'll try to get some G12 on Monday, and look for leaks. Think it's reasonable to drive the car if I keep an eye on the temperature gauge?
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Jun 5, 2011 10:43
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I drive a '98 Jetta TDI. I payed $5000 for it in 2005 with 100k miles. Of course I could have sold it for a few thousand dollars more than that when gas prices spiked like a year later. TDI's do hold their value really well, but $6,000 is too much.
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Aug 20, 2011 04:48
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Whenever something is X Years / Y Miles it's referring to whichever comes first, so yes.
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Aug 28, 2011 21:49
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I know I'm a little late to the discussion here, but for the 3rd generation Golf/Jetta (94-98)the ones built in Germany have held up a lot better than the ones built in Mexico. It mostly has to do with serious rust problems on the underside of the ones built in Mexico. Something to do with the superior German adhesives, or perhaps inferior Mexican adhesives.
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Oct 9, 2011 05:07
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I'm not suggesting that Mexicans are inferior at assembling cars, just that there have been quality differences in the past and that there may be quality differences in the present. Edit: I currently own a 98 Jetta TDI that was built in Mexico City. If/when I buy another VW, I'm going to try to get one that was built in Germany. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 20:23
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There's something wrong with my glow plug system - 98 Jetta TDI. I got a check engine light P0380 the first day of fall that was actually decently cold. I measured the resistance on my glowplugs with a multimeter and got 0.8 to 0.9 ohms on all of them. My research indicated that a lot of cars are just hypochondriacs with regards to glow plugs, so I left it alone. Once it actually got cold cold, I realized that the car was starting kind of hard and there probably was a real problem. The 50 Amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. It blew again the next time I started my car, if not sooner. I figure the next step is to replace the relay, but I thought I'd ask here before I buy a part I might not need. Do I need to disconnect the battery when I replace the relay? I didn't for the fuse but maybe I should have. Thanks.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:31
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Motronic posted:It is pretty unlikely that a relay is going to blow the switched load side fuse. In fact, I can't think of any way that would happen short of some very odd type of malfunction in the relay itself that I've certainly never seen. I was thinking maybe the relay went bad in some way where it's shorting internally. Like I said, the plugs are all within .1 ohm of each other and within spec. I looked for shorts in the engine bay, but the harness wires very quickly join a bunch of other wires in a big bundle. I'm not sure how I'm going to check the amperage draw if the fuse blows immediately. A relay is only $50, so I think I might just see if it fixes things. Edit: To be perfectly fair, I'm not positive that the fuse blew immediately. The check engine code came back immediately (I had cleared it when I replaced the fuse), and when I checked like 6 starts later, the fuse was blown. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 01:07
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Thanks. I appreciate the advice. A lot of my wanting to throw money at is that I don't know how else to diagnose things. This is probably a stupid question, but do I need to worry about damaging my multimeter when I try to measure 50+ amps? I'm confused about how the plugs could be drawing too much power; shouldn't that be determined by their resistance?
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Nov 14, 2011 03:57
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It's pretty amazing what I've been able to do on my 98 Jetta TDI with a (borrowed) VAG-COM. I'm assuming that you can do even more on newer cars.
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Dec 16, 2011 08:01
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My 98 Jetta TDI takes a long time to warm up, unless you're getting right on the highway. The glow plugs also run for a while after the car starts up to try to help with this. Newer VW TDI's have additional electric heating systems and are supposed to warm up much more quickly.
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Dec 26, 2011 09:18
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Is there any kind of learning function built into the DSGs? I know that some new transmissions try to adapt to driving styles, and maybe people that don't like their DSGs have ended up with crappy learned behavior.
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Jan 2, 2012 07:35
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There are years and models that are generally known to be good and known to be bad. I purposely bought a 98 Jetta (last year of MK3) instead of getting a 99 or 2000, which had a lot of electrical problems. I don't know much about Passats though.
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Jan 16, 2012 22:15
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Keykey, if you're still have limp mode troubles then try the guys at forums.tdiclub.com
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Jun 6, 2012 06:35
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The myturbodiesel forums are also pretty good, if you want to keep trying with internet advice. VAGCOM should definately be done though. There's also codes that might come up that aren't OBDII codes and won't trigger a CEL.
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Jun 6, 2012 16:33
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Does anyone have any experience with unsticking stuck wastegates / actuators? Some part of the assembly seems to be rusted stuck on my 98 Jetta TDI. I've been putting it up on ramps, spraying everything with penetrating oil and trying to wiggle it back and forth. Right now it won't move at all. I replaced the N75 valve before this because it was easy, and I have replacement hoses, but I haven't bother wit that yet because I can't move the actuator arm by hand.
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Jun 27, 2012 06:05
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PhancyPants posted:I just bought a 2004 Golf TDi off a buddy of mine for cheap (...for the area), and I'm pretty sure it needs a new clutch. My 98 Jetta TDI did this and I waited too long to do anything about it. It was a bad master cylinder. I say that I waited too long because my clutch started slipping because it overheated from always being partially engaged.
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Sep 4, 2012 02:55
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PhancyPants posted:Is it a terrible thing to replace yourself? The clutch Master Cylinder isn't too bad. They slave could be bad as well, and is even easier to replace. The hose between them is mostly steel but with a rubber section to allow the engine/transmission to move around in the bay. The rubber can wear out so it expands when pressure is applied, and could also be your issue, although I'd expect the cylinders to be much more likely issues. You can also try just bleeding the system and seeing if that helps. It might help for a little bit and then go bad again, which could indicate a bad cylinder. The bleeder screw is easy to find on the slave cylinder. It's 11 mm - one of the few 11 mm parts on the car.
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Sep 14, 2012 21:04
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fknlo posted:Someone I work with is thinking about getting a mk5 Jetta TDI. I know the '09 has the common rail engine and telling him about the HPFP failure possibility scared him a bit but I know that the pre '09 models had a different engine. I've done a bit of research for him and haven't found anything really serious, is there anything outside of standard VW maintenance he'd need to know about on the earlier models? Before the Common rail models was the PD engine. It had problems with camshafts wearing out and failing, especially if the wrong oil was used. I would go to tdiclub.com for more info.
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Sep 17, 2012 02:21
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I adjusted the emergency brake on my 98 Jetta TDI today (rear drums). I tightened them down all the way, but the cables really need to be replaced. What's involved in that job? Do I need to take the drums apart or do the cables just attach to the back somehow? Thanks.
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Sep 30, 2012 04:06
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I think one of them might be broken, but it might just be really stretched. Maybe if I add a bunch of washers to it I can get it tight.
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Sep 30, 2012 06:07
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Well, neither of them is broken. It's just that the right one is stretched like an inch, and the rubber surrounding the cable is broken at one point. I was able to get the brake working pretty well by adding a bunch of washers to that one... or so I thought. Turns out that that brake wasn't actually disengaging after I put the handle down, which had nothing to do with the washer system up front, although it may have a lot to do with the fact that that brake hasn't been engaging at all for a long time and the exposed cable letting crud in. I jacked that wheel up to get a better sense of what was going on, and I could always eventually get it unstuck through some system of pulling the cable back and forth near the brake and maybe kicking it, but getting it unstuck a couple of times didn't seem to make it want to stop sticking. I eventually went back to having that cable be so loose that it doesn't engage at all. I checked the MA Inspection guidelines and I should be able to pass safety - the parking brake just has to stop me from 20 MPH in less than 80 feet. Also it's supposed to hold the car back if revved to 1200 RPM in 1st gear, but that doesn't make sense for a manual transmission.
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Oct 1, 2012 05:34
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 23:36 |
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The DPF Regeneration is also the reason that you can't run Biodiesel (above 5%) in the new TDI's, whereas the old ones would take it fine.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:03
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