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frozenphil posted:I've seen a bunch of the v6 versions, but no 5.0s. It's kinda weird, really. I just came back from dropping my car off from Anderson Ford in Clinton, IL and they were supposed to do a 5.0 GT build. Still can't get it and it was going to be a magazine car. Also I'll probably do a full write up with videos once it's (finally) tuned and running but I am a SN95 and mod motor believer. This car was my daily driver last year until it started eating and blowing too much oil. It went in for a basic engine rebuild... 1996 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra still using the Teksid Aluminum Block & B-Heads  No longer is it stock though.  Bored out to ~5.0L, Comp Stage 2 Blower Cams, 9.2:1 pistons, stroker kit, Procharger F1-A supercharger cog driven and intercooled, 80# injectors, Anderson Ford PMS tuned by Anderson Ford, flaming river manual steering, Aerospace Engineering breaks, Weld ProStars wheels, 28" M/T slicks, 8.50 second NHRA certified roll cage, Strange Ford 9" rear end w/ 4.10 gear ratio and spool, MMR aluminum intake (They've sold some, they're ridiculously priced. I'm fairly certain my car is the only one out there right now running with one) tuned on VP Racing Fuel 116 octane leaded race gas @ ~$20/gal (DOH!) It can still be driven on the street as well. Its weak link right now is the Tremec TKO500 transmission which should hold it but doesn't shift worth a drat especially at the RPM needed to create full boost. Was looking into phase tooth options but ended up decided on a Liberty LSC5000 4 speed. Refusal to put an automatic in the car. Race cars have clutches not computers.  Best part is when it was initially getting dyno tuned the kid said, "I don't think your boost gauge is working." I was pretty sure it did. About an hour later he got the car up to around 3500 RPM and it finally moved (electric gauge so there was no vacuum display.) He goes, "Hey, it works. The car doesn't even start to make boost until 4000 RPM. It's set up for ~22 psi right now with the capability to go to 38. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 16:23
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quote:I'm not too racing car inclined or anything, so this might sound really stupid. Why are you using 116 octane when you've got a low compression ratio of 9.2:1? Again, I come from an old american car history (lincoln continental '68, Jeep Wrangler '90 4.2L) where using 91 octane is common. It was originally being tuned for 93 octane pump gas. The shop was okay with it that tried to tune it. They suggested maybe going to at least 100 or 110. In order to really push the tune it is a hell of a lot safer running those kind of boost numbers on a high octane. Danny at Anderson Ford explained it pretty well. Basically the problem is detonation. you really don't know if you're going to run into it (probably will) and he said it's a better safe than sorry situation in the long run. It's also a hell of a lot safer for the motor and will allow the car to see higher horsepower numbers in the future if I decide I need more boost. Could it run on 93? Yeah. I bought a full Nitrous Oxide Systems kit but the engine builder said it was probably overkill. quote:What kind of power is that making, 7-800ish hp? quote:Very interested in hearing about your results with this. It would be even better if you had some back to back runs with the stock manifold to compare it to. You know, since MMR won't give any information about it other than "IT IS TOTALLY AWESOME TRUST US AND GIVE US YOUR MONEY ON FAITH!" Yeah, unfortunately it never saw any stock runs. They advertised this as being "OMG SUPER AWESOME FOR FORCED INDUCTION PROVIDING X%" results but never actually posted a number and only saying they saw big improvements (I forgot the exact percentage.) Wasn't going to hurt to try it and was already in over our heads with the build so we bought it when it was 'on sale.' They say it clears the stock hood. It didn't but the entire front end is modified. It rubbed so I had to buy a Cobra R hood and the tubing for the blower still rubs a tiny bit so it has hood pins now. There is also a remote IAC setup but the manifold itself didn't come out of the box for the average bolt-n-go guy. The IAC had to have a bung welded to the elbow off the throttle body. Everyone on MMR forums that have it basically ran out of cash doing their builds or don't have results. I have heard they get really uppity about people criticizing their products. quote:30PSI with a blower?!? drat. Yeah. It really came down to reliability and simplicity. Turbos are more efficient and can put out insane power numbers but they're more complicated in my opinion. ProCharger are pretty drat easy to take care of and don't require additional electronics. Turbos felt like they'd become a problem down the road where the Supercharger is fairly straight forward. It is also is a hell of a lot less tubing all over the place and I don't have to worry about building boost and all sorts of crazy stuff at launch and then worry about cooling down. You guys probably know a hell of a lot more about them than I do. Also, the F1 series ProCharger literally sound like nails on a chalkboard. It's absolutely disgusting sounding. ProChargers have a really distinct sound and when it comes down to it... quote:Jesus Christ. Automotive Insanity. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 01:46
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Skyssx posted:Yay math! If you're asking about gear ratio and fuel economy it is almost a useless point. You can put 4.56 in the car and barely see a drop off. I can't find the thread over on Modded Mustangs forums right now (it's stickied in one of the forums) but basically it came down to the same decrease you get using air conditioning. edit: Stolen from "The Busher" over at Modded Mustangs using a stock '04 GT: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/modular-mustangs/30116-3-27-vs-3-73-vs-4-10-took-couple-hrs-2-complete-enjoy.html code:Before going insane mode on the car I had a 4.10 gear on my '96 Cobra. It could have used a 4.56 if I had to do it again. First gear wasn't that horrible. You shift out of it quickly no matter what. What's the difference if you're out at 15mph or 20mph? You won't be in first gear unless you're doing sub-10mph anyways. (That or being awesome and winding it to 5,000RPM with your exhaust  )
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 18:46
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Bridgestone Blizzak have a "performance vehicle" size option and 19" isn't unheard of. I downsized on my M3 to a 18" 2009 M5 wheel with Blizzaks and the car drives better than everything on the road. If you start looking right about now you may even find some discounted nearly 50% off on Tire Rack. They get rid of them every off season. I also ran 17" Blizzak on my 96 Cobra when I had it. They were older and sat in a garage a while but the rear end hooked extremely well in the snow. (Run 4 snow tires! I only had 2 because I bought them from a guy who only had 2 he didn't need. It was a temporary fix for the winter when we got our 3-4 snowfalls a year.) Here are Bridgestone Blizzak LM-60 (I run these in 18" on an E46 M3) in 2011 GT Couple w/ Brembo Brakes: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...ating=S&tab=All Little over a grand for the whole set up. Obviously if you have stock brakes and do research and stuff you could find someone dumping stock wheels. On SN-95 it was a pain if you had a Cobra due to brake size. I don't know how new GT and V6 compare with wheels but if they're interchangeable just buy a whole new set. The hell with having people put tires on and off your nice wheels twice a year. I know 15" Weld Racing wheels ALMOST clear a GT Mustang's rear brakes but probably not the front? So I'm pretty sure there are 17" options out there? The smaller the wheel size the better performance you get out of your winter tire (and drag tires as well - cheaper too!) edit: Throwing in the "All-Seasons" are useless. The only purpose they serve is to throw on base model cars because most people really don't have any idea what the hell. They're the same ones who don't know what oil weight is, put "mid-grade" gasoline in their Toyotas "because it's better", and consider rain a "FREE CARWASH!!!" Tire Rack has a pretty good test video between winter vs. all-season. Basically all-season are terrible compared to winter tires - no comparison. If you live in a state that never snows there's no reason not to run summer tires year run in my opinion. They're good until like 40 degrees and even then without snow they drive fine on the road. Just don't take an on-ramp at 110 miles an hour when its cold in Florida. (When is this, 3 times a year by fluke?) Do people really think summer tires = no rain? Maybe if you're running Mickey Thompson E/T Street drag radials everywhere. (I did this - you have to plan your trips around the forecast. Hehe.) Any summer tire will drive perfectly fine in the rain even if it's that Chinese cement company that makes tires. (Ling Long) Right now one of the best cheap performance summer tires out there are the Hankook Ventus V12. They're getting awesome reviews. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 19:14
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BaronW posted:If I'm ordering a V6 automatic will the 3.31s have a significant drop in MPG? My commute is ~52 miles round trip cruising at highway speed in the morning and hellish stop and go on the way back. (I basically drive the entire 105 freeway in LA) A 3.31 is the biggest baby gear on earth. Fortunately a V6 automatic Mustang is now a respectable choice of Mustang compared to past offerings. If you're buying the 6 for the gas mileage to performance factor I'd spend the $400. It's really going to wake the car up. Alternatively if you have cold feet on the situation you can always buy whatever gear (2.73?) that comes in it and then be utterly disappointed. It's about ~$200 for a gear kit and about ~$350 to have someone install it correctly. Going this route you can get a higher gear than a 3.31 (which still is pretty boring.) Even with a 4.10 the car will probably pull 60 by the end of second gear. It's all dependant on how much throttle you're giving it. I'd recommend going to a 3.73 minimum myself down the road. The mileage difference is not a factor at all. All that you'll really feel is the fact that the car is a hell-of-a lot more responsive. I posted a chart a page or two back ago that looked at different gear ratios / speeds / RPMs on an SN-95. You can get a pretty good feel there. Basically what I'm saying is go bigger by all means. A 4.10 in a manual feels like more shifting but in an automatic it'll just feel like way more power since you're not inconvenienced by the shorter gears at all. 2004 GT: code:Q_res posted:This seems like a good time to forward a question I've been mulling over. Is there really any reason to get the 3.55s in the GT over the 3.73s considering they're the same price? I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will pop up and find a reason against it but I'm going to say nope. Maybe I'm just stuck in the SN-95/II days but any naturally aspirated car deserves the biggest gear possible if you're looking for performance. When looking at forced induction it's a different story. Let the motor do the work and not the gear (to a point. I'm not ever going to run a 4.56 on my setup.) Not to mention no one is ever going to go in your car and say "hey, you have too big of a gear!" Instead you'll hear, "holy hell, this pulls like hell." All you're losing is top speed and you're probably never going to notice the car only does 170 mph instead of 210 or something ridiculous. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 16:30
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Does Ford still stamp the pumpkin with the gear on it? I know on the SN95 you could find your original gear ratio by looking at the stamping on the rear end housing and it would say what the car had. (On the 8.8" and 7.5" rear ends. Cobras were all 3.23 I believe. It was the 6 and GT that came in random gears). It will end in like #AS#AAS##355 and you'd be like "Oh, I have a 3.55." Something like that. It's stamped on there pretty clearly. No idea what's going on here: http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/2011mustang.shtml Has some information on 2011 VIN. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 00:58
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Ugg boots posted:Last September I bought a 2010 V6 (Automatic), and after coming from a 1984 5.0L V8 I'm obviously missing the power a bit. I've been looking into making some upgrades to squeeze some more performance (specifically acceleration/lower-end) out of it since I'll theoretically be driving this for a few more years now. Everything you do to a V6 is sort of blah pre-2011. A catback is going to do nothing but make noise. You're really not going to ever feel a difference. Would headers, an x-pipe, and catback setup do something? Yeah. For sure. Is it worth the money? That's up to you. Honestly since we're all talking GEARZZZ the biggest boost in the seat is going to be a big gear in the rear end. Everything else (short of forced induction / nitrous options) is just going to nickle and dime you to living hell and you're never going to be satisfied. Since you're looking at cold air intakes make sure you pick up a decent one. Many of them actually hurt performance due to wicked heatsoak. With a true CAI that goes through the fender this is less of a problem but many of them love heatsoak. (BBK, sup?) As mentioned before, troll mustang forums. Corral.net is huge so always stay on top of their classified section since it's big. Modularfords.com is more detailed and the dudes there will explain to you why something being half a millimeter off is going to make you lose .05MPG and .08 Horsepower. You can also cruise ModularMustangs.com as well. Community is pretty large and there's a ton of people who have no idea what the hell so if you go there the air intake recommendation thread will be huge. (As will the 14 other ones posted under the sticky since people can't read.) Personally I'd recommend C&L Intake parts for anything you're doing intake wise. They make quality products and you really can't go wrong with them. If you want a cheaper option I'd recommend the K&N FIPK II Air Intake kit. It's going to replace your stock tubing and give you a cone filter with a heat shield around it. If anything it sounds cool. edit: I totally forgot about JLT. 
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 02:11
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Taaaaaaarb! posted:Question for frozenphil or whoever: can the heads in a 16-valve 4.6L Mustang be swapped out for 24- or 32-valve heads? frozenphil is a genius at this stuff and he's probably right. If you're talking a SN-95 GT swapped to a Cobra motor then the only part that may not work is the upper intake manifold. The Cobra manifold was huge and I'm not entirely sure the bulge in a 96 Cobra hood was fully cosmetic. There may be rubbing issues but I'm not sure. You can image search an SN-95 Cobra and see that little bump. GT manifolds were tiny little squares that looked like a dust buster would be more effective up there.
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Aug 25, 2010 19:50
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frozenphil posted:I'm not sure, but I'm guessing so. Being able to swap parts around was a big part of the design philosophy behind the modular engine. I mean, they called it a modular engine. It's also entirely acceptable to do the following with a Lightning engine as well: 
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 02:54
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kimbo305 posted:If you haven't seen this in Vanderhuge's wagon thread: This is absolutely incredible and he could probably make good money hand painting these things?! Like it's not even tacky it's so cool. I think...
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Nov 22, 2010 02:07
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Some of you may remember my post from the bottom of page 3 about my '96 Cobra that I took to Anderson Ford. Well, it's still there, but it runs now. Here's a recap of some of the car (more has been done, well, purchased waiting for its return home...) VibrioCholera posted:I just came back from dropping my car off from Anderson Ford in Clinton, IL and they were supposed to do a 5.0 GT build. Still can't get it and it was going to be a magazine car. Danny called the other day excited. Their lead guy went out with stomach surgery half a year ago and that set them back on getting to cars apparently. They've played with it here and there and finally figured out the stock ignition on the car is not handling all that boost. It doesn't kick in until 4500RPM or so. MSD box on order. He also said the 60# injectors were enough so they're going to swap them to 85# LI injectors as well. The good news was it idles and runs. In its current state its making no horsepower but it still sure does sound pretty. He was pretty excited to show up and asked my father if we wanted a video of it online. Of course he said yes. I watched it like 10 times. He said he didn't want to push it too far but said it'll do every bit of 7,000RPM. Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyReg61CgkU edit: I have a full brand new in the box Holley nitrous kit (probably not doing this...) in the box sitting in my basement with a bunch of other parts. Probably going to take the mufflers off too. Useless. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Feb 1, 2011 22:51
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Huggable Bear King posted:That is so loving badass! This really makes me miss my 95 Thanks! It still has no numbers yet obviously but hopefully will have a real dyno run video with numbers in the coming weeks. Now to go get my license...
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Feb 4, 2011 02:38
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frozenphil posted:Apparently simple bolt-ons and a Roush TVS supercharger are good for 10 flat ETs at 138mph on these cars. If you doubt Justin Starkey's (of VMP tuning) tuning ability, check out this video. That was the prettiest launch I think I've ever seen in my life. Holy hell. I wish I lived closer to this guy to get my stuff tuned. Are there any ridiculously well known tuners in Illinois who can do high horsepower Fords? Apparently the car is almost done at the current tuner but I'm starting to think I need a closer tuner than 3 hours away and the Chicagoland area would be nice. It took them apparently 7 months to get the car running right.
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Mar 7, 2011 |
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Mar 7, 2011 16:47
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frozenphil posted:Dude, you have one of the best modular tuners in the country near you. Tim Barth works over at Mr Norm's Garage these days. Tim used to own Modular Horsepower before Mr. Norm made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Seriously, get your rear end to Tim and tell him the entire Southeast is still pissed he left. So he still does tuning on the side I take it? His contact info is right there so I'm going to hit him up shortly if needed assuming the car won't run. Season is starting in about a month. quote:Oh yeah, that's why he was hired; Mr. Norm needed a Ford tuner. Tim is seriously in the top 3 Ford tuners in the world. Search around on the various Ford forums for his name, you won't find a single bad thing about him which says a lot in my opinion. He used to be a heavy hitter in the King Of The Street competitions that 5.0 puts on. I believe he's won a few of them. Dug around a bit, I see this now. drat, I sort of hope they don't fix things at the current tuner and I can take it to him. People hail him as a Mustang Jesus or something. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 7, 2011 |
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Mar 7, 2011 17:22
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Going to say thanks for the recommendation of Tim Barth, frozenphil. Getting the car back somewhat running and taking it up to Rockford to Mr. Norm's Garage. They were awesome guys at Anderson but I don't think they ever dealt with ~30# boost modular motors. Supercharger doesn't do ANYTHING until around 5000. He was always honest and even said the biggest they deal with is 12# or so. Between computers, fried MSD ignition, coils, and wires it's time to try something else (Oh yeah, MSD=Booooo.) They fixed a ton of wiring issues and general problems and didn't ruin anything - just can't get it to run right. Numbers running incorrectly were just shy of 800 HP at the wheels. After 5500 RPM or so the car just won't run due to ignition issues so his guess of 800RWHP is probably low. Part of me would like to go to an COP ignition only because they have two-step options. SN95 have little / no options with a manual. Tim got back the same day after leaving a message and he said everything should be absolutely no problem. It's pretty much sat a year doing just this in various garages around Illinois. It's been pushed for more miles than it has driven. Season is a month away... Hopefully when it's back the TKO500 and Spec Stage 3+ clutch hold on long enough.
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 17:11
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Mr. Norm's Garage is pretty incredible. Just got back from there. I didn't talk to Tim Barth since he was out or something for the day but the amount of awesome stuff there is  . They run one hell of an operation. No idea why but seeing the original Sox & Martin Cuda there was really freaking awesome. I think everyone knows the Sox & Martin cars. Have to admit after seeing what they do I almost thought, "Maybe Mopar is pretty cool..." Then I realized owning a 2011 Norm's Garage Cuda would cost an arm and a leg. They're way confident in what they do. I asked a few times if he wanted the spec sheet... the guy was like "Eh, we have your number. Should be fine." VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 05:33
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frozenphil posted:Told you, homie. Yeah, I'm glad I came here before some Mustang boards sending me to dipstick Illinois to another guy who would hack it up. I knew the TKO 500 was going to eat poo poo... last tuner was tuning it with it in it. I know very little in terms of transmissions. I mentioned my desire with a 1000+ HP setup to go to automatic (I want to choke on those words but it's the safe / consistent / cheapest way to keep the car running). Thought a PowerGlide would work. Not even a day later they call back saying they look over everything and the car would spit a PowerGlide out and to go Turbo 400. I'm new to automatic land but pretty drat glad I looked into it. If it's going to cost $8k (after transmission + additional parts and labor/freight) to get a transmission to handle the car I can't imagine what it would have cost to run a manual that wouldn't break.
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Apr 14, 2011 21:19
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frozenphil posted:Muwahahaha! This is all awesome information as usual. I'm not sure what they're planning for it but when he calls today I'll ask what's up. I don't know what it was about the PowerGlide. MAYBE to get one that handles all the boost? (the car is going to see street use eh, once a month probably for 3 miles round trip to cruise nights. Can't afford gas for the street at this point in it.) I know ATI makes some that can handle a ton of HP but the jump from a 1300 HP to higher is pretty big. Maybe it has something to do with nearly 30# of boost and almost all of it starting around 5000 RPM? I have no idea.
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Apr 15, 2011 19:45
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KidDynamite posted:Yea I called up Progressive, Geico, All State, and NJ Manufacturers and they all basically gave me the same prices. None of the reps could tell me why it would be so much difference. It's pretty mind boggling to me. I'm about to turn 25 so I'm going to wait a bit and see if that affects it any. Well hot drat! I forgot I was turning 25 this year but I remember why it's okay to keep looking forward to birthdays after 21. Too bad by the end of the summer that excitement is over. Also, if I was that guy with #1 of the Boss 302 there's no way in hell I wouldn't have that on the next Barret Jackson. I'm not wealthy enough to garage queen something like that and even if I was I don't have the self control to not drive it around. Cars are for driving. Rather sell that bastard for like twice the price to some rich dude and buy a GT500 or another Boss 302 or something and buy something like a 3 series to daily drive with the spare cash.
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Apr 19, 2011 22:02
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frozenphil posted:This is so hilariously lewd. Isn't that the Hellion hellscreamerdeathturbosupercharger setup or something they have? I remember it being a monsterous money sink when you really look at doing that versus just a monster turbo / SC / twin turbos or something. Like the ultimate form of extreme overkill. I'd still want it though.
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May 19, 2011 15:03
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frozenphil posted:It's the hellraiser, yeah. I don't know about it being any more of a money sink than any other combo. The GT500 guys are seeing 800rwhp at something ridiculous like 8psi. There's one rolling around making 1200rwhp at 18psi or so. There are rumors of someone doing the Kenne Bell 4.2LC blower with one of these kits making over 2000rwhp in his daily driver. Probably rents out a gas pump at his local Mobil station for storage. It probably burns at a rate of 2mpg parked.
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May 20, 2011 20:45
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My car which has been on a two year trip around Illinois dealing with miserable tuning experiences and general tomfoolery seems to finally be done (thanks to frozenphil's recommendation of Tim Barth @ Mr. Norm's Garage). Mickey said it's about a week away (that guy is awesome.) I went to their open house the other day to take a look at the car and just visit and really look around. I post in here because obviously I love Ford and Mustangs but my lord a Mr. Norm's Garage 2011 Cuda would be awesome. Anyways, I'll share some shots I took. Car should be all around bulletproof.  Hanging out in the garage. They were only doing dyno pulls/tunes that day. They had to modify the exhaust to fit the new transmission choice in. (Yes, as you'll see there is no longer a clutch. Due to money/safety/consistency it made sense to ditch it.) That blue Mustang that looks like a full blown drag car has a full interior and a $5000 sound system. It's twin turbo and expected to push over 1200HP. They said the owner wants to drive it on the street and will never race the car. The only pass it will probably see is the one they make with it and that is it.  Don't usually have too many opportunities to get a good shot of the rear end / undercarriage. Pretty sure that'll hold. Strange 9" rear end, 4.10, spool, Strange suspension.  You can see the JW Turbo 400 and Kook headers. New K-Member and Canton Oil pan are pretty. Also see the monstrous cog setup that pulls the F1-A.  Here's a repost of a year old shot still being built. Front end was customized a bit. The engine builder did a good job keeping functional fog lights. Haha.  Soon. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyReg61CgkU This was running all sorts of horrible with too much fuel and stuff still messed up. It pushed out 730RWHP without being properly tuned/configured on this pull. The paint makes me cry. It's in very good shape for its age but getting thrown around shops for two years its sad. It will see many hours of detailing ahead. This winter I'd like to get it redone and go with gold drag wheels and some loud color added with the white. I have an insane amount of other stuff to do to it and still have a brand new NX nitrous kit that can be put on it for whatever reason (traded cheap for it.) Going to go to a fuel cell as well. I'm actually really excited about going to an automatic. I'm not saying a really good driver can't run that power in a manual. It just wasn't a financially sound decision to stick with a manual with this kind of horsepower. It also takes out launching errors, bad shifts, etc. In a game where .01 of a second matters it was a better decision. The shifter (B&M Pro-Ratchet) is awesome. YouTube for an example of just how cool it is. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 15:19
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frozenphil posted:If you're nervous, have the dealer "install" the tune for you and keep your warranty. Just saying the air filter makes that entire kit worth every penny. Should have made it funnier and put a Fram Air Hogs in with it or something.
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Jul 5, 2011 05:31
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I got the car back and again, Tim Barth was amazing. Car is wonderful. Their quality of work there is top notch and I was shocked at where the price tag wasn't when they were done. The South must be really pissed off he's not there anymore. It did around 650 on a MustangDyno with only 20# of boost. He said adjusted for the other one (DynoJet) if we wanted to see NUMBERZZZ it'd probably be sitting about 100-150 higher apparently. There is a hell of a lot of car to handle right now but I don't see why going over 30# isn't in the future. Without even having ANY IDEA how to drive the car right it pulled a 10.98 at 129.8MPH. That wasn't building up boost, launching correctly, shifting at the limit, etc. The 60' was abysmal too but it's a learning process. The "oh poo poo" factor of a car that absolutely rails you in the seat and causes every organ to cower against your rear rib cage is unreal. I'm not afraid of it, but I don't think people truly realize what the hell a 9 second car feels like. That's all BEFORE the gigantic F1-A starts making boost around 4000 RPM. The car is heavy as hell too. It's in excellent shape and I decided to keep a full interior with a rear seat delete kit. Granted nothing works except power windows, locks, and switches. My biggest complaint is it runs VP Racing C16 which costs around $85 for 5 gallons. I'll get photos, videos, and numbers when I start to sort the car out more.
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Sep 1, 2011 15:25
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I'm going to do a big writeup since the car is finally alive but I finally broke the 9's with the car. There's still lots of little bugs to work out but it ran a 9.81 @ 138.50 mph up at Great Lakes Dragaway (Union Grove, WI). They weren't even prepping the track and the car hooked and ran amazing. There's still lots of little kinks that need to be ironed out but it was one of the best feelings in the world to finally see that single digit. Also, it ran out of gear a little after the 1000' mark if I had to guess, I could still see the boards and was already shutting down since it was about to bounce off the rev limiter. There was a hell of a lot more in it. I'll put more once I organize a solid post. I have videos and stuff but here's a photo of one of the launches. That's coming out at 4,000 RPM. The bored .030 out 281 stroker takes a while to build boost and turn that F1-A but when it does  . I don't even think it's pushing even half of the boost at launch. Never looked at the gauge though. edit: Here's a video of a launch running in the 10s. There was a piece of tape in front of the intake that wasn't seen for a couple passes that was really killing the power. http://www.youtube.com/user/rpaymaster?feature=mhee#p/a/u/2/ZQJogm3K1-8 VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 02:13
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frozenphil posted:BOOYAH! Thanks! Yeah, not entirely sure if it's going to get too much better out of the hole. Maybe there's some slipping but it sure doesn't feel or look like it in the video. There's also a really high possibility I shifted first short but I doubt it. Going to have to hook up the tach to see my shift points. That was also the only 9 second run the car would let me do unfortunately. It's stalling really bad between runs. On top of it they asked to see my competition license which I don't have since I didn't bring my physical and papers. Never thought I'd be running that fast. They would have let me keep running and I made one last pass but the car wasn't cooperating so it wasn't a great one.As far as torque converter goes I'm pretty sure he put the best Turbo 400 / Converter setup J.W. Performance Transmission had. If need be I'll change it later for sure. I think a lot of this is still driver error. Tim is going to have it back in a few weeks to give it another tune, fix the bend in the piping before the MAF (probably stalling issue), and I have a taller tire for it. It has 28" MT E/T Streets right now but I have brand new Goodyear slicks (28"). Apparently they measure closer to 30 whereas the E/T Streets are smaller. Not to mention I'm not even running real slicks at the moment. This may fix the gearing issue. I threw a video up. My channel has more of them. Camera man wasn't exactly pro on it because he was more concerned with watching the car. Heh. edit: I'll catch up to sza once it has enough gearing for the entire 1/4.  Also, the F1-A still has about 18 pounds of boost left in her if I need it. Pushing right around 20 at the max right now. I could probably fix any specific issue with this if I needed to. It's just sitting in the basement:   Seems literally like the definition of automotive insanity if I ever actually used it. Car doesn't need it but part of me still wants to hook it all up anyways. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 03:42
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ratbert90 posted:No, I buy cars with clear coat and wetsand them. I do the exact same but because everything I have is used. It's like a fresh start. It does take a long time though. I have no idea how you're wet sanding then buffing it all out in 5 hours. It takes me 5 hours to just use wool and foam pads in stages (minimum)! That M3 photo is atrocious though. My E46 has very little orange peel but now that I think about it the fender area is by far the worse off the top of my head.
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Nov 8, 2011 13:59
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oRenj9 posted:Can you explain how that shifter works? Is he just moving it back and forth to shift gears? What does the button on the top do? On an automatic car it's a trans brake which sends a current to a solenoid attached to the transmission and it makes first and reverse lock each other up so the car doesn't roll out and you can rev it to your desired launch RPM. When it's go time you just let go. On the Liberty's Gears 5-Speed that's probably a line lock? I have no idea why he's pressing it. I never went with the Liberty. I'd go with it being a line lock because it looks like he's still running the clutch setup. As far as the transmission goes it leaves zero driver error for missing shifts. It has gates and every time you pull or push it's a gear. There are also clutchless setups where you just hammer the gears without a clutch. It's certainly the only way to go if you're running a fast car with a manual. A conventional stick is going to cost you a zillion dollars to build and maintain. Not to mention all the room for mess ups. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 14:16
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BDawg posted:So nice to post pictures of your new car and get comments nearly 3 weeks later about how bad the paint is... thanks, guys! I like your car still.  I also had no idea there was a Brembo edition. I thought it was the typical models + California.Also, I'd be happy with orange peel. Specific Fords (mainly white SN-95 Cobras and most of the white Police Interceptors) loved to just shed paint off in pancake sized sheets. Go to early 90's and find an Aerostar that isn't a brick of rust. I swear those things rust in Florida too.
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Nov 9, 2011 16:08
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Dinurth posted:Maybe someone here has some insight into what's going on with my car. '01 Bullitt Forgive any ignorance on the topic but it sounds like you could benefit from checking out and making sure your sensors are okay. Mainly your Idle Air Control Valve which could be doing this. Frozenphil or someone else will probably nail this first try but that's where I would look.
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Nov 10, 2011 21:56
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I put the car back up at the shop. The car is going to a 3.55 gear on top of a new tune. The supercharger tubing is getting totally redone to fix the idle issues. After talking it over the car won't run higher than a 28-28.5" tire without tubbing it and that's just really expensive. So a 3.73 was agreed on but a new option came up that made a lower gear work. It's also getting faster. In passing we were talking and he mentioned nitrous. We mentioned I had a nitrous kit just laying in the basement. He said, "why not use it?" So I am. It's being installed to the trans brake so it will launch off at least a 150 shot of nitrous. All the safety measures are being installed. The car will be well into the low nines or high eights by next year. I guess launching off nitrous is a huge boost. This hobby is stupid expensive but well worth it.
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Nov 11, 2011 23:25
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BDawg posted:Thanks assholes. YouTube is probably the best DIY guide. Be warned it's really time intensive and you are prone to screwing up. Use painter's tape and mask all edges and sharp corners. If you make it through wet sanding the DA polisher is nearly fool proof so it's easy sailing from there. Also, you'll need a select speed speed rotary such as the Dewalt or at minimum a dual action polisher such as a Porter Cable 7424XP. Now you need to buy pricey compounds, the best and easiest ones to work with are Meguiar's 105/205 combo. With a couple different pads you can do most of the car in a couple days or just hit the really bad spots if you wanted to I guess.
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Nov 14, 2011 13:57
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Going to throw a pretty wild question on there for everyone. Hail Mary shot before the weekend. I've got a 96 Cobra. It's not really stock anymore, I changed a few things. It no longer has the PATS system (per the builder) and it's running an all FAST computer and ignition system. So anything to do with a stock computer is really out the window.  (Showing you it has quite a bit there. 28# of boost and a shot of nitrous to help her out.) Decided to try push button start. Should have been easy. It's turning into a nightmare. I'm just not getting any spark. I feel like this is really something simple I'm missing. Even when putting it all back to being turned on via the key it won't even crank. I'm pretty sure all the fuses are fine as well - I checked them all. I'm lost.
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 22:09
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Power everything but the FAST XIM/XFI 2.0 doesn't seem to be delivering spark. All I did was start running a wire to make an ignition switch and starter button. I'm no electrical engineer so I don't know if they could screw up some kind of weird loop.
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Jul 4, 2014 13:14
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Found the problem. While removing old useless emissions wires and stuff I made a dumb error and if I was smart would have found it earlier. Since it's been rebuilt twice and worked on so many times there have been a lot of hands in what turned out to be less than optimal wiring. Hence why I was pulling it apart. Hell, I've cut the entire fuse panel out of the driver's side and redoing it all in the glove box. No reason for extra crap. Anyways, One of the hot wires for the ignition was spliced into an AC wire. I stripped that wire out without realizing they had a hot wire going to it for some reason. All is well and we're currently rewiring the car. Because text is boring this is a sloppy photo of the awful process. Thanks to those who offered total common sense which I thought I covered. I decided to recheck grounds and test wires and figured it all out pretty quick once we stripped everything we didn't "need." Wiring sucks but once it's done it'll be a treat. 
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jul 21, 2014 |
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Jul 21, 2014 04:17
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Listed as "fair condition" Not sure at what point you call "fair" a 20 hour detail, need for a whole new front end, realign all body panels, and go knows what else. Is there anything on this thing worth $3200?
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Jul 22, 2014 14:33
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