Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
This thread is for the general discussion of all things Mustang. Whether you have a vintage Mustang, a Fox body, or the new DOHC 5.0 hotness, this is the place to ask questions, post your super sick kill stories, or show off pictures of your new Cobra R wheels.

History

If you don’t know the entire history of the Mustang, read the Wikipedia page for a very good accounting of the history of the car.

General Information

First off, no one in the Mustang community refers to these cars by generation. If you post on a Mustang message board or go up to someone at a car show and talk about your sweet 5th gen Mustang they are going to make fun of you and/or call you a ricer. Mustang generations are referenced by their platform name or number if they were made after 1978, or their exact year if made before 1979.

It breaks down like this:

1964.5 to 1978: use exact year
1979 to 1993: Fox body
1994 to 1998: SN95
1999 to 2004: New Edge
2005 to present: S197

Forums

Mustang forums, as a rule, are cesspools to be avoided at all costs. As with any rule there are exceptions. There is one hard and fast rule of Mustang forums, never, ever enter into the off-topic chat area of the website. You do not stray from the tech or classified sections lest you lose your sanity and faith in humanity. Don’t even do it just to troll unless you’re trying to refine some high level trolling techniques because these people will eat up every last thing you say as if you believe it 100%. You’re not a good troll just because you trolled a Mustang forum. In fact, you’re probably a lovely one.

The decent Mustang forums out there are:
  1. Modular Fords
  2. Modular Revolution
  3. The Corral
  4. SVT Performance
  5. The Vintage Mustang Forums
That’s it. There are no other worthwhile Mustang websites.
The first two are modular engine (factory engine in 1996 to current Mustangs) specific, but most people into Mustangs have played with their share of Windsor pushrod engines.
The third and fourth are really only useful for their classified sections. Use SVT Performance for SVT specific vehicles and parts, and the Corral for everything else.
The Vintage Mustang Forums are your go to place for 1964.5 to 1978 Mustang knowledge. If they don't know the answer, no one does.

The Corral is the Mustang equivalent of slashdot.org for IT. Most people in IT read a bunch of different IT websites and blogs, but all people in IT read Slashdot. The Corral is the same way in regards to classifieds since people will post their ads on a bunch of different websites, but everyone cross posts their ads to the Corral. Think of it like a craigslist aggregator for Mustangs and Mustang parts.

More information will be added to this post as I think of it or as it is brought up in the thread.

frozenphil fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jul 16, 2010

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
FAQ

Error code PO340:
Effects the New Edge vehicles, especially '02 to '04. If you get a check engine light (CEL) and the code comes out PO340, which is a "Cam Shaft Position Sensor" fault code, replace your alternator. 99.95% of the time the problem is with the alternator and not the cam shaft position sensor.

Spark plugs ejecting out of the head:
If you've heard of someone that has had a problem with spark plugs ejecting out of the head, more than likely they are using NGK plugs. The problem with the NGK application for the Mustang is that they allow a few threads from the body of the plug to be exposed into the cylinder head. Once those steel threads start heating up they will melt the aluminum head around them. Eventually enough aluminum melts away so as to allow the spark plug to be forcefully ejected from the head. The solution is to not use NGK plugs in your modular engine.



I want to buy exhaust stuff!

frozenphil posted:

If you're buying exhaust stuff, especially Magnaflow stuff, go to http://www.performancepeddler.com/ and click "Log In" up top. Then, under "Wholesale Log In", enter clubgp. Congrats! That $860 cat-back is now $560.



placeholder: I'll add more stuff to this as it is brought up in the thread or as I think of it/come across it

frozenphil fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jul 13, 2011

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kimbo305 posted:

One thing that always confused me is these designations don't account for the motor changes (among other small changes, but motor is obviously a big one). Like how the SN95s switched from 302s to 4.6, and how the S197 is switching from 4.6 to 5.0. Is there another way to do that, or do you go back to year?

Honestly, most people just refer to the specific year. I've seen people say SN95 with a 302 or whatever, but to me it's just easier to say '94 Mustang GT.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Bob Morales posted:

If you have an SN95 everyone assumes it is a 4.6 because they are stupid.

Also, this is the most bad-rear end SN95 you could get



Saleen S351

The Super Stallion was the most badass SN95 you couldn't get.



oRenj9 posted:

I'm glad you made this thread. I've been wanting to learn more about Mustangs, but, at least two of the forums I visited limited the number of pages you could read to about 20 before forcing you to sign up.

Stay far, far away from any Mustang site I didn't link. They're basically a right wing FYAD except they are never accidentally funny.

I should probably throw a link to the vintage mustang forum up there too. Horrible website, but those people are loving scary with their Mustang knowledge. Need to know what thread pitch the center console carpet trim screw was? They know.

frozenphil fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jul 16, 2010

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

AtomicBomber posted:

Anyone know how long builds are taking on the new GT's?
I cant flippin wait! I will go out of my mind if I watch the summer go by without this car.

Initially cars were held up due to some issue, but Ford hasn't said what it was yet. Some say it was an issue with the Synch radios, some say a transmission issue. All we do know is it affected cars with and without Synch, and with either automatic or manual transmissions. Because of that we don't really have any good idea of just how long it will take to get your car. You could get it in a few weeks, or it could be a few months.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Nait Sirhc posted:

Go drive a Mustang and then go drive an E55. Tell me what you think.

I'm seeing mid 12s for the E55 on average. That sound right? If so, that's the exact same as the 2011 Mustang GT.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Elephanthead posted:

I am interested in a SN95 302 convertible. I live in the rust belt and I am wondering if I am in for a world of pain if I buy one locally. How well do these guys stand up to corrosion?

You have to take it case by case. Some cars live in lovely conditions and never rust, some live in the desert and rot away.

kronix posted:

First of all, I live up in Boston so I'm curious if anyone else has driven a car like that up here in the winters.

A friend daily drove a '94 v6 Mustang when I was stationed in Alaska. He nor I never had a problem with it. I don't know what the latest and greatest snow tire is, but he had Blizzaks on his car.

quote:

I can't decide if I want the 3.73's or not.

3.73s will put you somewhere around 2500RPM at 75mph. The modular engines love their RPMs, so don't fear the gear.

mungtor posted:

I admit complete ignorance on the Mustang diff (because I'll end up lusting after one and can't afford it) but the key for the GTO and the M3 is the limited slip rear.

If it's a Mustang made after 1996 with a v8, it has an LSD. All 2011 Mustangs, v8 and v6, have an LSD.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

johnny sack posted:

What do you guys think a 2011 GT premium might go for in 2-4 years? They're, what, $33k new?

I'm hoping one with low miles, in good condition will go for like $17k.

That's possible. I'd say $20k is more reasonable for just 2 or 3 years later though.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

KickStand posted:

Nice looking New edge, I was thinking about those wheels in black but I think I will either go with the cobra replicas in 17x9 and 17x10.5 or the black GT500 wheels. Everyone should whore out thier stangs in this thread!

For the love of God, please don't get the same kind of drat wheels as everyone else in the Mustang community. I just can't fathom why everyone who drives a Mustang has this burning desire to buy the same kind of wheels as everyone else with a Mustang. There are dozens of wheel manufacturers out there. A few of them even make good looking wheels that will fit your Mustang. Break the cycle that Mustang owners have fallen into and buy something unique.

I don't mean to single you out, but this is one of my biggest pet peeves with Mustang owners.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kalvick posted:

On the other end of the spectrum, I hate people who put body kits on mustangs. Anything with a European or Asian style to it, just looks terrible on a mustang.
The only body kits for a mustang should be, stock, Roush, Saleen, Cobra. Any other combination is just wrong.

Agreed. However, a mix and match of those can look really good. I'm very partial to the '03/'04 Cobra front bumper, Cobra R hood, and Saleen S281 3 piece rear wing combo myself.





KickStand posted:

Good call I do like to be different, I am finding some other wheels that I guess arent typical of Mustangs that I can go with. Id really like some sort of BBS style wheels (not basket weaves although that certainly would be different)

:ninja: Well hey would you look at that... http://www.elementwheels.com/proddetail.asp?prod=sm521885bsm521810b

True Forged offers discounts to modularfords.com members. Their Chicane line might be something you're interested in. They are a completely custom wheel shop and can do whatever color you want, on whatever part of the wheel you want, in whatever size and backspacing you want.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

ultimateforce posted:

How much power (hp/torque) to wheel stand a SN95era Mustang? An inch or so off the ground is all I am looking for here?

What type of suspension and rear tires? NMRA Factory Stock class cars pull the wheels with around 350rwhp or so using stock-type suspension components and drag radials.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
Fastlane is the first to come out with a power adder setup for the 2011 Mustang GT. They use a 72mm Borg Warner extended tip turbo (S400) pushing 6psi to make 530rwhp on the stock long block.

This engine is loving retarded.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

JnnyThndrs posted:

All GT's after 1982 and all V8 Mustangs since '86 came with LSD's... but sometimes(worn-out T/L's) it doesn't seem that way :D

I wasn't 100% sure when they added them to the Fox bodies as standard so I put out the year that I was 100% sure of. Thanks for the clarification.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Lord Fizzlebottom posted:

I've seen nothing but newer cars so far. What about the old guys?

Technically there's one in the first post.

<---

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kronix posted:

I'm just trying to convince myself that I'm not getting hosed price wise...does anyone think I can do better?

That's about as good as you're going to do with the car still being relatively new and in demand. The best I've heard of are people finding dealers willing to go $500 over invoice.

Kona Blue is the best color, but don't get it in that color because, when I eventually get a new Mustang, I want mine to be unique like my Sonic Blue 2003 GT was.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Faceless Clock posted:

I actually saw that color on a Fiesta at a auto show. I couldn't decide if I liked it or not. It has a nice shimmer to it as lighting conditions change, but it seemed to lack real punch.

With that said, the lighting at the show as kind of poo poo (it was Portland, our auto show is absolute crap) and it might look different in real sunlight.

This picture is the closest I could find to how the color really looks under normal lighting.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Bob Morales posted:

What the gently caress



It's like a Camaro SS and a Mustang hosed
That car did 22xmph at Bonneville, he can paint it however he wants. Vitoman's Cobra was the first modern Mustang to popularize that color scheme.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chRRi_GW54o

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
Sorry you got a lemon. Every manufacturer puts out some in a production run. If it makes you feel any better, my 2003 Mustang GT has only had an alternator replaced outside of normal wear items in 108k miles.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

mod sassinator posted:

I still haven't seen a new 5.0 on the road yet. Damnit people get out there and start driving them! :)

I've seen a bunch of the v6 versions, but no 5.0s. It's kinda weird, really.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

VibrioCholera posted:

MMR aluminum intake (They've sold some, they're ridiculously priced. I'm fairly certain my car is the only one out there right now running with one

Very interested in hearing about your results with this. It would be even better if you had some back to back runs with the stock manifold to compare it to. You know, since MMR won't give any information about it other than "IT IS TOTALLY AWESOME TRUST US AND GIVE US YOUR MONEY ON FAITH!"

I want to like MMR, I really do. I just don't trust companies who "sponsor" forums, release no information about their products, and get users who dare question their products or post bad experiences with their products banned. It also doesn't help that Mark Lutton, the owner of MMR, was the head guy at X2C, a company that went down in flames for scamming everyone that walked through the door once they built up some goodwill in the community.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

oRenj9 posted:

30PSI with a blower?!? drat.

Why wouldn't you go with a set of turbos if you had a race car that required that much boost? It seems like it would be more efficient.

Look at the race series where turbos and superchargers compete against each other, the superchargers tend to dominate. John Urist owns Hellion Power Systems, an aftermarket turbo kit manufacturer. John runs a Procharger on his race car and has won 4 championships in a row in NMRA.

Turbos are awesome, but they aren't the be all end all for performance.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Pudgygiant posted:

Two questions
1) I'll be driving in Colorado, lots of mountains and lots of braking. Is there noticeable fade on the stock brakes? If I'm never going to track this, are the Brembos still worth it given the driving I'll be doing?
2) Is the 3.55 rear end decent for highway driving?

1) You're not going to fade the stock brakes with regular driving. However, I have a feeling Brembos are going to be a sought after option in the resell market.
2) At 70mph in 6th gear you'll be turning 1988 RPM with the manual or 2110 RPM with the automatic. This is based off of the stock 18" tire's 27.3" diameter, 3.55 rear gear, and a 6th gear ratio of .65 for the manual and .69 for the automatic.

Tire height and transmission ratios are taken from here, tire size conversion was done here, and gear calculations were done here in the "Transmission Final Gear Ratio Manual Entry" section.

With the 3.73s in a manual (can't get them in the automatic from the factory) you'll be turning 2089 RPM in 6th gear. This is why we tell people "don't fear the gear". We're not in 1968 anymore. Transmissions have more than 3 speeds as well as overdrive. Even 4.56 gears will only spin 2554 RPM in 6th at 70mph.

frozenphil fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jul 24, 2010

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

IOwnCalculus posted:

Absolutely true, but how short is first? I get the feeling 4.56 behind a stick would be very hard to launch without absolutely smoking the rears.

3.66 first gear for the manual cars, 4.17 for the automatic. :laugh: I didn't say it was a good idea, just that you can do it and not have the engine sitting at 5k RPMs on the highway.

JnnyThndrs posted:

I've(against my advice, but the customer is always right) installed '56's in several mod Mustangs, and first gear just ends up completely useless - you end up shifting at like 11mph. I also have a very strong suspicion that if you took the same car with 3.73's, it would be faster in the quarter anyway.

Really depends on the setup and what you're able to live with. Bob Cosby used 4.88s in his '99 Cobra. He daily drove that car and raced it in NMRA Factory Stock where he won a championship in 2004. The DOHC engines really wake up once you start spinning over 7k RPM. Brandon Alsept shifted his old NMRA Pure Street 4v at 11,800 RPM. That is not a typo.

His new 2v "only" gets shifted at 9k RPM. He said his new cams are bigger than the MHS Stage 5 NA cams which spec at 250°/248° @ 0.050", 0.540" lift. Stock are 200°/209° @ 0.050", 0.505" lift. If you know cams then you know how insane of a jump that is.

frozenphil fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jul 24, 2010

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

JnnyThndrs posted:

When I say "4.56's are too much", I'm referring to the 99% of cars out there that are using stock cams/heads, of course - once you get into really big cams, things change pretty dramatically.

Pure Street and Factory Stock (naturally aspirated classes) both have to run stock heads, stock intakes, and stock plenums. Woe be unto you if tech finds grind marks or a shiny surface inside anything. Basically all they can do to the engine is a stock overbore (smidge over .020" as class max for the 4.6L is 289ci), cams, and Pure street can use aftermarket exhaust manifolds.

With that in mind, the 350rwhp they make is loving impressive because it is almost solely RPM and tuning.

But yeah, 3.73s are pretty much perfect for the 2011 GT as you'll be crossing the stripe in 4th gear right at redline with a 28" tire. If you can shift your rear end off you might as well just skip 4.10s so you can use all of 5th and head straight to at least 4.56s.

Devyl posted:

For most people, 3.73's or 3.90's are more than enough for what they have. It just seems most people want "them big gears to make my car stand up when I stomp on the gas pedal".

4.10s are pretty much the default standard for a 2v or 3v with an automatic unless you're running a turbo. There's just no good reason to go lower if plan on drag racing the car. RPM is your friend with a modular engine and the gear just helps you get to your friend faster.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
Steeda's Tri-Ax shifter is just about ready for you manual 2011 owners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uEgBr-9RaM

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Killbot posted:

Whenever Ford decides to sell the 5.0 as a crate motor I am stuffing one under my hood.

The package will be available soon, probably this fall. It comes with the complete engine assembly with all the front end accessories as well as the engine harness. Should run around $8k if the previous offerings are any indication.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kimbo305 posted:

Does the harness include a 2011 ECU?

The 3v engine assembly did, so I would imagine it will since it's rather integral to making the combo run.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

ApathyGifted posted:

Which brings up another thing: rear seat deletes.

Steve Shrader makes the best one on the market.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Faceless Clock posted:

I've actually found myself thinking that one of the advantages to the V6 Mustang is that it is relatively light. That's just weird, but its true. Most cars of this size are between 3400-3800 pounds.

Despite what people say, they're probably just going to get heavier, because IIRC there are new rollover and side impact tests being commonly used (the one that slams a car into a pole sideways).

The v6 weighs like 40lbs less than the v8. You're not saving much weight there and it's solely in the engine as the rest of the car is the exact same.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

johnny sack posted:

Does anyone here have a glass roof and can you take a picture of it to show me? Is it removable like a T-Top and does it fit in the trunk?

It is not removable.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Devyl posted:

Can anyone recognize this rear-end? Came off a '67 Mustang my uncle is building.


Click here for the full 1024x768 image.



Click here for the full 1024x768 image.


Can't tell you anything about it without the axle tag other than it is a 9" made in 1967.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

JnnyThndrs posted:

It's NOT NOT NOT a 9", it's an 8", the little brother of the 9". You can tell, even without a tag, because you can see the lower third-member bolts when viewed straight-on. On a 9", the pinion "hangs over" the lower bolts because of it's larger size and you need an open-end wrench to remove two of them.

I could have swore that I saw those lower bolts covered. Woops! At any rate, C7 indicates 1967, so it is probably the original rear end. I'd imagine the car was a 6 cylinder.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Oxytocin posted:

Does anyone know the weight difference between the Coyote and the 4.6 3v? Still aluminum block?

The Coyote weighs 10lbs more at 430lbs. It is still an aluminum block.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
Whipple is almost done with their 2011 GT supercharger. Rumors are 550hp with 6psi.



frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Oxytocin posted:

So what are the weaknesses of coyote? Also, in your estimation, does it seem like Ford tweaked as much as possible out of the design, or will we see a lot higher numbers than we've seen out the 03-04 terminators. In other words, do you see it benefitting as greatly through aftermarket as we've seen in the past?

1)The pistons and rods are going to be the main weakness. I don't see them living behind 500hp for long if there's even a hint of detonation.

2)We've already seen aftermarket gains of nearly 75rwhp with a full exhaust system, CAI, and a tune. I'd say that bolt-ons are still very much viable. The 2011 GT, in naturally aspirated form, makes more power than the Terminators did stock, so I'm not sure what you're asking. If you're asking about modified engines then yeah, the Coyote should make more power than the Terminators because it has more displacement and better flowing heads.

3)It's a whole lot easier to make more power when the engine already has forged internals and a supercharger on it from the factory, but the Coyote seems to be doing rather well with simple bolt-ons.

Killbot posted:

I'm hoping that the rumored 2012 Boss comes true. I would like a modified Coyote delivering loads of power but without the extra supercharger weight.

If they make it and don't bring the original colors over as options I will be very upset. Basically, make this terrible photoshop a reality, Ford!


Click here for the full 800x530 image.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Oxytocin posted:

I guess I was asking in terms of potential.
I was under impression the terminators were massively underrated with lots of untapped power on reserve, especially factoring forged internals. But this is coming from someone who never owned one skewed with beer goggles typing on his phone at the moment.

I think I'm looking for reasons to dimiss this generation and uncovering little.

The '03/'04 Cobras were underrated as they generally made their rated power at the wheels instead of at the flywheel. There's always going to be more left in a factory supercharged engine than there is in a naturally aspirated one.

There really is no reason to dismiss the 2011 Mustang. At least '03/'04 Cobra owners finally realize this as you can now find decent low mileage examples for under $20k.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kronix posted:

I understand that TCS and all the electronic goodies help but it seems to me at some point we're hitting the actual limit of what tires can put down.

We've got a ways to go. :smug:

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

kronix posted:

If you plan to daily drive your car, I can't understand using anything but all seasons. From what I understand summer tires are completely useless in the rain as well, who wants a car that can't get you home in a flash rainstorm?

You do know that they make summer tires that can handle the rain, right? The Goodyear GS-D3s I used to run on my Mustang were the best tires I have ever used when it was wet and stuck like a whore in the dry. The General Extreme UHPs I'm running now are basically a copy of those Goodyear GS-D3s and are every bit as good while only running $85/tire.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Sarthek posted:

Sorry about the iPhone photo guys, but I just wanted to double check: is the ATF in the engine block of my '66 289 supposed to be this colour?



I would be more concerned with why you have ATF in your engine block at all.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Sarthek posted:

Oh, that one's easy: my old radiator was taking a political science class and got a bit carried away with itself after a lecture on segregation.

I know that can happen, I've just never actually seen it before. Wild.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply