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ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
So my research advisor told me yesterday that he had ordered a 3d systems projet sd3000. Does anyone have any experience with the project line? I've never worked with any kind of rapid prototyping hardware, so I wanted to get a feel for if I'm in for headaches or if it's easy to use. Our applications at this point are for making custom enclosures for research electronics, and making magnet arrays (which require good strength and high resolution).

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ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
So where am I supposed to buy new nozzles for the original Replicator? Both of the extruders on ours seem clogged (with PLA), and I'm not optimistic about fixing them, but it looks like there aren't any distributors of the bona fide parts. I do see a lot of cheap clones from chinese sellers on eBay, though. Is that my only option?

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Yeah I already took one home and put it to my gas burner. The inside has a layer of ash stuck to it, but at least I can see through the nozzle now. Hopefully I was able to remove enough ash that it won't clog again immediately.

Aurium posted:

I've also seen some talk about the possibility of using caustic soda (NaOH, sodium hydroxide) which is the active ingredient in most drain cleaners. So you could try soaking it in a solution. Note that NaOH can also react with brass. That said I haven't seen anyone who said yes, this worked for me.
Oh well poo poo, I have a bath of 1M NaOH sitting at work. But yeah reacting with brass is no good. I can try it as a last resort if burning doesn't work out.

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Right I've been poking at it with needles for a while and all the bulk ash is gone, but there's still a thin film of it covering the inside which I can't do anything about. I'll just have to give printing a try and hope it works.

If it doesn't, am I stuck with the chinese knockoffs then?

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Seems I was successful. The nozzle extrudes pretty smoothly, with only an occasional curl. Thanks for the help!

Also my group has been looking at possibly getting a newer printer. We make components for engineering projects, and we don't need incredible resolution or accuracy, but having a good support material is key. We want one that has dissolvable support for doing parts with smooth internal structures (like narrow channels and tubes for carrying fluid, so the support really has to dissolve away completely without needing to be physically ripped off). Are there any printers in the ~$5000 range that can do stuff like that? Build volume is not really critical.

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Welp, I spoke too soon. I ran one small print just fine, but then started a larger one and left it overnight. I come back the next morning to find this:




My best guess for how it happened is that early on the extruding motor lost its grip on the filament and stopped extruding for a while. Then it eventually started extruding again, but by that time several layers had been skipped so the extruded material didn't make it onto the build and just curled up around the nozzle and grew into a giant lump. Eventually it got so big it reached down to the platform and tore up the first few printed layers. The thing is the plunger in the extruder was already set to be very tight (all four washers, and a relatively new plunger), so even this doesn't seem very likely.

I was able to preheat the extruders to remove the mass of crap, leaving this:


I was able to scrape off most of that as well, but there's still a thin layer of PLA completely covering the right extruder block, including the connector to the heating element and where it connects to the rest of the extruder assembly. It can still extrude okay, and there didn't seem to be any real damage. So I tried to start another test print. However now I notice a problem: the right extruder preheats much slower than before, and it never seems to quite reach its set temperature when starting a print or loading/unloading filament. Like if I set it to 225, it will crawl up to 222 and sit there. If I set it to 230, it will crawl up to 226 and sit there. The only way I've been able to get it to heat enough to start printing is to first preheat both extruders to 230+, then start a print job. Apparently having the left extruder hot helps the right one heat up enough.

If I do that, it seems to print okay again:


But this preheating issue is not good. I don't know if it's something wrong with the heating element or the temperature sensor, and I don't see how this could result from being covered in PLA... any ideas?

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~

UberVexer posted:

Prior to being coated with PLA, was the ceramic tape still wrapped around the heater blocks? From your pictures it looks like you might have hosed up the tape on the right extruder more than the tape on the left.
drat, I think you might have it. I didn't know that tape was there fore thermal insulation (thought it was to shim the height of the extruder nozzle). Yeah in the process of cleaning out the PLA I was pretty rough on the tape (it got underneath it). I don't think I ripped the ceramic part, but it's really loose. I'll try cleaning it up and re-applying with some new kapton.

quote:

You can buy the ceramic tape from a bunch of places online.
When you say ceramic, you mean something like alumina right? I think McMaster sells alumina tape...

Many thanks.

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ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~

UberVexer posted:

http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=10

Something like that. For most of your Replicator problems QU-BD will have the replacement parts you need. I'm pretty sure they built a company off of selling replacement parts for less than Makerbot.

Looks promising, but I can't tell what combination of parts I would need if it turns out I need to replace the entire hot end. My replicator is one of the older plywood ones. This looks close to my heater blocks, but will it fit with the rest of the assembly?

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