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Claes Oldenburger posted:The wax printing and resin printing machines we use for jewellery start at about 35,000 and go up to 60,000+. Getting jewellery quality (0.02mm-ish resolution x/y/z)is going to cost you well, well over 10k. I was looking at things like this. Their shop is down, but they have a selector that breaks products down into pricing tiers, sort of. Basically they put down the magic number as above or below 10k. I suppose 35-60k qualifies as above, just so far above as to make such a distinction a bit silly. Perhaps it isn't a jewelry quality printer though, or I'm reading too much into a dumb marketing thing. Probably the second.
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Mar 23, 2012 00:07
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Rodney Chops posted:Totally still on the fence about that exact same choice. I'm kinda leaning towards attacking a rep-rap. I'm not an electronics junkie, but there seems to be alot of support for them. Inititally I was just going to get a makerbot, thinking a reprap would be too much messing around. The more I read, the more I'm finding you need to constantly fiddle with stuff regardless. So maybe its best to know it inside and out by building it. One it's printing there's pretty much the same messing around with it. Fixing extrudes, keeping it calibrated and the like. A reprap has the additional option of messing around with different firmwares and host programs, where as makerbot has great support for one firmware. If you want a challenge you could put one of the alternative firmware on a makerbot though. The big area of additional fiddling around with the reprap isn't while it's printing, its if you decide to self source. You run around gathering plastic bits, a few dozen kinds of fasteners, pick one of around 3 electronics setups, one of 4 cold ends, and one of a whole bunch of hot ends. The advantage is that in the end you get a mildly more capable machine if you've done it right, or a much less expensive machine if you've done it right. You get to choose. If you're interested in a kit reprap, I recommend the Makergear prusa. It's pretty much the best mendel kit out there, and it's still 275 less than a makerbot. If you're not big into electronics, you may wish to put the extra 50 up for a soldered board though. On the other end of the scale, there's the H-1 which is a kit done by a plastic injection and cnc company. For 260 dollars you get a complete hardware kit, supply your own electronics (160 unassembled 200 all soldered up) for a grand total of $460. They also have the option to drive it with a cnc (mach3, emc2, etc) interpreter which is kinda weird and slightly cheaper. Useful to people who want to use their previous experience with a cnc host and have a parallel port. The Makerbot replicator, though, is still pretty much in a class by itself, except for a handful of individuals who have made one off dual head printers. It is pricy class of one though.
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Mar 27, 2012 17:23
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That huxley kit is pretty great too. It's a good buy. They have a blog post on it that shows some pretty good quality too. The reprap founder was involved in that particular one too. If you want a small printer it's hard to do better. The h1 is cheap because its made by a much larger preexisting company that did cnc machines, so they are already buying most of the parts needed for a reprap in bulk. They also do plastic injection molding, so they can also make the plastic parts very cheaply. The complete h1 kit is only if you want to do the cnc parallel port controls. Otherwise, you can just put one of the standard reprap electronics (that they don't sell) on the hardware kit and run it like any other reprap.
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Mar 27, 2012 20:41
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Young Freud posted:Man, I've got a hard decision. Everything is coming together, but I'm really trying to make a decision on whether to get spend almost $2k on a Utilmaker or buy a cheaper Thing-O-Matic MakerBot or Replicator. Don't buy the thing-o-matic. At this point it's just more expensive and less capable than a good prusa kit. The replicator on the other hand, does other cool things. If you're actually considering the ultimaker, you really should get that one. No, you do not really need the NetFabb engine. It is a good G-code generator, but the reprap people know that good g-code is key, and are improving all the time. It's also something that you can upgrade to later if you decide you need it. The only way to skip out of the laser cut parts though is to have them made locally. They are integral to the frame, and they include the build platform as well.
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Apr 18, 2012 17:19
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Weee, finally got the shipment notice for my Ultimaker! A calibration cube.
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Apr 21, 2012 07:32
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Makerbot news everyone. They've sold out of Thing-o-matic kits, and are no longer offering it for sale. It's Replicator or nothing now. I'm sure you'd like to read the blog post about it yourself. Obsurveyor posted:But you couldn't have .1mm raised script which is what I was talking about. I guess accuracy would get you smaller negative relief features in some cases but you would never be able to get positive features smaller than the nozzle itself. This isn't exactly true, while the plastic is extruded out of a moving nozzle, it can stretch and thin. I guess it goes back to exactly how you're defining smaller too, because a long thin individual strip of plastic would still be larger than the nozzle in one dimension, while being smaller in another. You can also squish the layer of plastic being deposited to a thinner layer height than the nozzle opening. How far you can push this is still dependent on nozzle diameter. Cakefool posted:Edit: they claim 0.3mm typical for a fast/smooth print, possible to print at 0.1mm if required (Assuming they're talking layer height)  ?People have been doing .1mm for a while. The real excitement is .04mm on a ultimaker. There's also this set of people going down to around .02mm on an ultimaker again. The standard ultimaker nozzle is .4mm. No notes on different nozzles. Or possibly .01mm on a prusa. The prusa doesn't note a special nozzle either, so there's a good chance it's just the standard .35mm nozzle that goes with it's kit. I suppose it might be good for the price. It's been quite some time since I've comparison shopped on that angle.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:43
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Blackchamber posted:I have a question about the ABS plastic used in 3D printing, and that is: Are all abs plastics the same? Absolutely not. Let's compare ABS to another plastic: HDPE. HDPE stands for high-density polyethylene, and like it's name implies, is pretty much pure Polyethylene. They make milk jugs out of it. That males it easy, HDPE is HDPE ABS stands for Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. To simplify: Acrylonitrile is a plastic. Butadiene is a synthetic rubber. Styrene is a plastic. All of these have wildly different melting points, wear properties, and costs. ABS is a mixture of these three to get a good balance. More to the point, how many ways can you mix three things? (the answer is infinite) Even if we restrict ourselves to common proportions (15 to 35% acrylonitrile, 5 to 30% butadiene and 40 to 60% styrene) you can still run the gamut from very rubbery to very brittle. When you're talking about something as finicky as an extruder, tiny variations in melt point, viscosity and so forth matter. This bites people in the rear end all the time, and they don't even know it. For example a new filament supplier will show up offering ABS at some cheap random proportion and then people wonder why it gums up extruders. All the supplier says is that it's ABS and that's all the buyer knows to look for. Technically the material sheet will tell the whole story, but it's rarely provided an most people wouldn't be able to read it if it were. The good news is that these problems are mostly things you can experiment and dial your machine in on a per spool basis. The bad news is that you pretty much need to. And that's before you start looking into factors like air pockets, out of round or just poorly sized filament. It's a surprisingly hard problem to make it right and consistent. Pockets will lead to bad prints and sputtering. Newer sprung extruder designs tolerate poorly sized or shaped filament, but many older designs just choke and stop when the filament gets too thin for a good grip. Color also has a noticeable influence. In many ways PLA has been a boon here, as it's just on kind of monomer. Colorant can still gently caress it up though. I'd buy from Makerbot, Makergear or Ultimachine. They're all known for high quality and consistent filament. There are other good places, but read up on them first.
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May 1, 2012 07:27
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There's FreeCAD which I've never used but seems to be a decent 3d modeling cad program. There's OpenSCAD which lots of people use to create parametric items, but is less of a 3d modeling program, and more of a series of scripts to make a 3d model. Because of this, there's quite a learning curve. Google Sketchup is actually pretty decent. There are some file conversion issues, but if you already know it, it's ok. Art of illusion is one that I've seen many people use, but it's not really a cad program. It's very popular due to its short learning curve. The reprap wiki has a pretty decent summary page about various software packages. It also links some other pages about using that particular software package for use with a printer.
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May 25, 2012 17:03
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thexerox123 posted:How much modification would be needed to make one of these print chocolate? Hehe. Some work has been done on it. A few links to get you started: A video! On the reprap wiki about some of the things you might want to know about printing chocolate a printable nozzle and pump for pastes a syringe based extruder for many foods At the core of it most of the machine works fine, but there's plenty of room for improving the quality of nonplastic extrusion. Simple things can turn out nice though, if a bit odd. There's also some work being done for molten sugar printing. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26343 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VHFlwJQIkE (okay yes, its being demonstrated in the biological context, but sugar is sugar)
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Jul 11, 2012 06:55
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ADMRL Perkins posted:I've built and calibrated an ultimaker and a printbot jr for our local hackerspace. (Xerocraft in Tucson). I've been using both of them so much that I think it's time for a printer of my own. I really can't go backwards on quality from the ultimaker so I'm looking into printers with the same, if not better resolution. I'm technically inclined and poor so I'm thinking the prusa mendal or the mendal max. Has anyone had experience with either of these? Are the prints on par with the ultimaker? And is there a print quality difference between the two? As far as kits go, nobody has the the quality of a well tuned ultimaker. Most kits go the opposite way and try to go for cheaper. The last few pages have had a number of complaints about build quality and support of the cheaper kits out there. Broken parts, missing parts, poorly matched gears etc. The mendel derivatives are a special beast though. When you self source it, you can get top quality parts and still come in way cheaper than an ultimaker. You don't need to work in a profit margin, but what you don't spend in money, you do spend in time. I'm not familiar with the new mendelmax kit, only the old one that had a BOM. But it was effectively just a stiffer mendel, but otherwise used standard reprap bits. I don't know how good the new one's extruder is, and that's definitely one of the things that directly impacts print quality. The stiffness that the original mendelmax's extruded aluminum chassis would help it keep quality at higher speed, but at low speeds would have minimal effect. The important things on any printer are good extruder(hot and cold ends), good belt gears, straight rods, then linear bearings, and shaft couplings. Basically the mechanical bits. Mendels vary from pretty bad to excellent depending on how much care you put into it. Dialed in mendels are pretty much the only people other than the ultimaker that is actively working on only getting layer heights below .1 mm. Pretty much everyone else is happy considering .3 to .1 mm to be high quality.
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Jan 2, 2013 08:09
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ADMRL Perkins posted:Thanks for the input, I think I'm ready to take a crazy plunge. I'll keep everyone up to date, I'll post any spectacular failures and I'll try to do a side by side comparison against the ultimaker when I'm done. Spazzle could you clarify what you mean about the difference in sizes between the BOM and the .STL files on thingiverse? I assume you mean these files http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12645 What hotend do you plan on using? I usually recommend the j-head, but a lot of people get good results from an arcol. If you go with a jhead get it from one of the reputable vendors, like the guy who actually designed it, not an ebay special. The ebay clones have some questionable modifications. I'd also like to point out that that thingiverse link also has a link to a newer version of the mendelmax. I have no idea how or even if this affects the BOM stl discrepancy.
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Jan 3, 2013 06:52
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Hu Fa Ted posted:While we're on the topic of acetone, I've heard (anecdotally) that it's basically nail polish remover and other than the foul stench isn't particularly harmful, what's the take on that? Most nail polish removers are acetone, some fragrance and some color. As far as toxicity, it's about twice as toxic as ethanol. It doesn't seem to have any long term hazards either. If you breathe high concentrations of its fumes for extended periods, it can act as a CNS depressant though. The vapors can irritate the eyes and throat, so you'll feel it if you're breathing too much. For the quantities involved in plastic welding, you'll probably never run into it. It can cause minor skin irritation, and persistent skin exposure can also defat the skin. This sounds far worse than it is (it mostly causes excessively dry skin) but can potentially lead to an infection. Chronically defatted skin can also have long term effects (mostly constant irritation), but that's a more problem for factory workers who deal with solvents for 8 hours a day. So it's pretty safe, and very safe compared to most other powerful solvents. You shouldn't drink it, but you'd have a difficult time injuring yourself with it.
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Feb 4, 2013 02:21
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kafkasgoldfish posted:I think I've read that PLA burns out cleanly for a lost wax (lost pla) mold. You might hop over to the blacksmithing thread**, those guys have discussed metal casting (you might even find a local goon who could help). Incidentally, look around locally for shops that do this too. I know there are small shops that do one-off castings and small production runs, I know a guy who knows a guy that works in one Here's some info on lost PLA casting.
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Mar 16, 2013 19:15
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. They might entertain a small private project. I once got a big laser shop to do about 4'x4' of cuttings for me during their downtime and the cost was super reasonable. Those kind of shops are much more approachable then one might think.
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1.75 has less cross sectional area and thus has less pressure when being forced through the smaller nozzles. This gives extruders more margin with these smaller nozzles for better detail work. It's easier to use smaller and lighter but weaker motors. Your filament drive system can handle plastic dust better. You're less likely to strip the filament. If the device you're using to press the filament into the drive system comes loose, it's less likely to have a problem. It also melts faster/more uniformly because the heat has less distance to the core of the filament.
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May 27, 2013 19:45
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Tres Burritos posted:I feel like there are so many other options now that it hardly matters. There's also thingiverse to consider, which much more of a hub than any of it's competitors.
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Jun 20, 2013 05:29
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The very earliest reprap designs and were also made with an eye for combination milling and printing. The Darwin has much more crossbracing than any pure printer would ever need. Not that it helped as the darwin, even with it's crossbracing, was not stiff enough for good milling. The mendel has very little crossbracing. The simple reason is that the qualities that make one machine good don't really make the other. Subtractive manufacturing has strict tooling speed limits. Additive manufacturing doesn't. Subtractive manufacturing needs lots of stiffness, not just of frame, but of tooling. Additive manufacturing needs a barely stiff frame, and has almost no tool loading. These have implications for how you'd move the tool around. Since you barely care about speed for subtractive, but need stiffness, the typical solution is screw drive. Early experiments with 3d printers with screw drives, many of which were little more than adaptations of a desktop milling machine with a 3d printer head, gave printers that were both workable, and horrifically slow. Which is why almost all printers use belt drives. Which are in turn basically unsuitable for milling. Now, there are screw profiles out there that don't sacrifice speed. They're also much more expensive, and they require beefier motors, as they do trade off motor stress for that speed. For the $3000+ microfactory, there's room in the budget to do it right. For the other one, at less than 1/3 the price, who knows. At the same time, the question of just what are your expectations for a $1000 combination machine.
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Aug 30, 2013 05:32
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TwystNeko posted:So what's the consensus on the Velleman K8200? (specs) It's RepRap compatible, and I can get them locally for about $850 CAD. I haven't seen anything good or bad about them, and it looks to be a decent starting point for a beginner. I've built one. It's had the nicest instructions I've worked with. The parts are organized in various bags that are numbered so as to find them during the steps, rather than doing things like just get a few M4 bolts out of the M4 bag. There are a few steps that I think should be re-ordered, but none that out balance the rest. Alignment was a breeze due to the extruded aluminum. The pcb heatbed is slightly bowed, so I think they should have included a glass plate or something to build on. For comparison, I've also assembled a makerbot thing-o-matic, and a discontinued model from http://shop.seemecnc.com/, (who make the rostock delta), and a self sourced prusa iteration 1/2 hybrid. I've also worked on a couple of other kits other people bought. The default settings that Velleman supplied are pretty good. Still working out calibration, but it was by far the fastest to get tolerable prints out of. I'd recommend it.
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Oct 3, 2013 04:52
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Cockmaster posted:Some Korean team is trying to sell a 3D printer designed around DC servomotors in place of stepper motors: One thing that springs to mind immediately is that such a system would be basically immune to missed steps. It's also easier to do velocity ramping and higher top speeds with servomotors which translates to faster prints. A motor encoder combo has the potential to be cheaper than an equivalently specced stepper.
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Jan 19, 2014 02:25
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Bad Munki posted:I'd love to see a spreadsheet that has a good sampling of printers, with (aside from pricing) ratings such as "print quality out of the box," "potential print quality," "tinkering required," "cost to maintain," that sort of stuff. Anyone seen such a thing? A sort of Consumer Reports style analysis of the 3d printer market. Make had a pretty decent issue devoted to comparing a variety of printers.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:22
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You can burn it out with a blowtorch. Don't get it too hot, you can deform the nozzle. Direct the flame inside it. But it does tend to work well. I've heard of several people using it successfully. I've also seen some talk about the possibility of using caustic soda (NaOH, sodium hydroxide) which is the active ingredient in most drain cleaners. So you could try soaking it in a solution. Note that NaOH can also react with brass. That said I haven't seen anyone who said yes, this worked for me.
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Jan 23, 2014 06:48
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Yeah I already took one home and put it to my gas burner. The inside has a layer of ash stuck to it, but at least I can see through the nozzle now. Hopefully I was able to remove enough ash that it won't clog again immediately. Once it's ash, you can poke at it with a thin pin or drillbit to clean the rest out.
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Jan 23, 2014 14:59
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Right I've been poking at it with needles for a while and all the bulk ash is gone, but there's still a thin film of it covering the inside which I can't do anything about. I'll just have to give printing a try and hope it works. I think it'll work but if it doesn't, you could always buy a slightly larger drillbit and just have a wider nozzle. I think the normal size on those is .35, and I've seen up to .5 I think. Keep in mind that those little bits are fragile. If you end up having to do this, make sure you adjust the diameter in the settings. I don't know exactly where it is for a replicator, but it's in the slicing settings on repraps.
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Jan 23, 2014 17:54
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Seems I was successful. The nozzle extrudes pretty smoothly, with only an occasional curl. Thanks for the help! Considering even the best fdm printers still leave ridges are you might be best off with a resin printer which are naturally smooth. With doing internal tubes, it should be able to self support with the tube bodies. That said pretty much all printers are capable of printing the dissolving PVA plastic. So really all you're looking for is a good quality dual head printer. If you're happy enough with the makerbot print quality and software you could do much worse than the replicator 2x.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:54
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CapnBry posted:My printer generates some fantastic prints except the interior dimensions of small holes are always way off. A 6mm diameter hole comes up 5.5mm. The error is pretty consistent, a 10mm hole comes up 9.5mm. I'm thinking that it's extruding too much plastic, which would cause everything to expand (and thus the holes to contract), but shrink the model down to compensate for the external creep (which would also shrink the internal holes). It's hard to say what causes this with a well calibrated extruder but the most likely scenario is that your filament averages too large. A way to experiment with this is to watch it print out some small pieces with 100% infill, and see if there is excess plastic deposited Or you could try just cutting down extrusion bump up the size of the parts some (either in size of model, or steps per mm of the x/y axis), and see if that starts to correct it.
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May 7, 2014 15:24
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Linux Assassin posted:Hey- side note about moisture and filament: People who are experimenting with nylon routinely bake it to drive moisture out. The only comment I have is that PLA can soften and creep at low temperatures, so good control is a must.
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Jun 10, 2014 17:03
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A friend of mine just bought a printrbot metal. It's definitely better than the earlier wobblebot printers. It's not the one for me, but it works well for him.
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Jul 10, 2014 03:22
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I've used a mega prusa and was consistently disappointed in the extruder cold end, and the mounting they used for both ends of the bowden tube. It's a real pain to put new filament into it, either to run a different color, or to fix a jam. It otherwise worked acceptably well.
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Aug 8, 2014 00:28
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Adding to yet another printer I have experience with, the Up! mini. Good stuff: Good print quality. (after a modification) Support breaks off incredibly easy. Really incredibly easy. Fastest I've ever gone from out of box to good print. First print was excellent. The bed leveling routine, while badly documented, is pretty impressive the way it can compensate for uneven beds. Good quality printer. Looks nice. Big Bad stuff: For some reason they've decided to set the bed temperature with a fixed 40°C thermostat. This is bad because it's both way too cold to keep the prints from peeling off, and that you can't even adjust it higher (or at all). Basically I get 3ish nice prints off every bed and then every subsequent print warps off. I've replaced it with a 100°C thermostat which works better, but the bed doesn't have anywhere near enough power to get it up to temp, it stalls out at a bit over 60 after a loooong preheat. So far this has been good enough, but only just. This is a known issue in the Up! mini community. Minor bad stuff: The less than fantastic documentation. It's not terrible, but it's clearly translated. It is comprehensive though. Which is great. It has a few usability issues. The core functionality is great, but there are a few oddities/strange choices. So, its clearly cut down from their main model, as my major issue (fixed low bed temp) isn't present there. It's about $600 on amazon, which isn't so bad. It's a problem that warping spoils prints considering it needed buying a new component and soldering to stop it. It'd have been better if it was just lower quality prints rather than botched prints for a cut down model. Providing that bed temperature really isn't an issue in the main model I can definitely see why make awarded it best in class for push button printing. If you can solder, I'd recommend it. Otherwise the warping is bad enough that I wouldn't. helno posted:Has anyone tried out a Printrbot Metal?
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Sep 4, 2014 03:12
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Cheekio posted:I'm putting together a small stewart platform with some 9g servos, so I just need something rigid to collect the servos to the platform. I'm thinking 12 gauge wire will be plenty thick enough, and from there I can see if thicker wire is a good option or if I should be looking to some other material. I've used 4-40 all thread. It's common in hobby shops if you want local. As a side benefit if you want a machined ball joint most of the suspension components fit the same stuff.
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Sep 22, 2014 03:10
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nogthree posted:Can't talk though, we just ordered a few up minis. Anyone have some experience with those to pass on? Speaking of the up mini, it also uses magnets to hold the extruder. I've recently (last page) posted some thoughts about it in this thread. It's a flawed but mostly fixable machine, and their slicing program produces fantastic support, and good quality prints. But out of the box it harkens back to the bad old days when there were no heated beds. Since I posted that though, it's also developed a nasty habit of stripping filament and stopping feeding. That was after someone fed some random plastic though it, which it choked on a bit.
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Sep 26, 2014 04:31
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TwystNeko posted:So I've been tentatively offered a Prusa i2 machine as a partial kit. Is it worth buying cheapish and upgrading it to an i3? We haven't really discussed price, it was mostly "I have this kit I never finished building, wanna buy it?" Upgrading a prusa i2 to an i3 is effectively throwing away most of the structure, and then buying different structure. You might as well just buy electronics at that point. Or just build as is. deimos posted:As with many things in life: it depends. What hardware? What electronics? Which steppers? How much total? These are the important questions. You might be able to simplify and ask, what kit?
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Nov 13, 2014 23:05
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There are people out there who have done some ridiculously dialed in prints on an ultimaker. I don't really know how good people have gotten the M2, but it is beloved.
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Jan 21, 2015 06:43
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nolen posted:Any chance someone could tell me what would cause an issue like this on a print? I'm completely new to this whole scene and this is actually my very first print. What are you running your printer with? If you're using slic3r, you can minimize its appearance by selecting a random point to start every layer. Go to the print tab, Seam position -> Random. Make sure to save the settings, and use them when slicing. Some printer host software makes this a little obtuse.
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Jan 24, 2015 22:59
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IndianaZoidberg posted:5 hour print detaches from the bed at 95% completion. Get a pair of calipers, measure. Cut off that much of the model, and print the rest. I've done it a few times and have been satisfied with the results.
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Jan 30, 2015 04:25
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Chainclaw posted:The octoprint page has started giving me "500 internal server error", haven't found much useful on Google besides the official documentation which says "The server encountered an unexpected condition which prevented it from fulfilling the request." Anyone familiar with this error? I'm wondering if my Raspberry Pi is failing in some way or the Arduino driving my printer. Error 500 is a standard http server error. Octoprint leverages http to get web control of a printer, which is why your searches are returning such generic information. According to the official Octoprint docs it displays "If the upload failed internally." That's still a pretty generic problem, so I can't say for sure where the problem is. Take a look at the octoprint log, and see if there is anything that can help you there.
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Feb 4, 2015 06:02
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meatpimp posted:Just looking for straight ABS, is there a difference in brand, or is it just a "buy on price" type of product? There is definitely a difference between brands. ABS is made up of 3 polymers, and the ratios can vary heavily. Different mixes can print much nicer than others. It's also important for the dimensions of the filament to remain constant for consistent prints. If it gets too thick, or too thin the extruder doesn't deposit the amount of plastic it thinks it is. Bad dimensional accuracy can also cause jamming. Poor quality filament can also contain air pockets, or high water content which can lead to the exturder sputtering which leads to poor prints again. You can bake out water, but can't do anything about air.
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Apr 25, 2015 20:00
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Wade Wilson posted:Marlin boards are surprisingly durable for firmware flashing. You have to really gently caress up to ruin an Arduino RAMPS board (and I'm talking physical over-voltage). Another, somewhat smaller one: http://shop.re3d.org/collections/gigabot-3d
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Jul 30, 2015 23:19
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SlayVus posted:Can I get some thoughts on this printer kit off of EBay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Level-Geeetech-Latest-Delta-Rostock-mini-G2-3D-Printer-Full-DIY-Kit-GT2560-/281703016361?hash=item4196cee7a9 A friend of mine bought the predecessor that kit. No leveler, and ramps instead of their G2 board. It very much suffers from it's make it as cheap as possible nature. Its parts are poor quality, and the hardware for the bowden tube broke and had to be replaced. When something went off with the controller board, he tried to reflash it, and when he asked Geeetech for the firmware they sent him an unconfigured copy of marlin. At that point he dumped the printer off onto someone else.
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Sep 9, 2015 19:10
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blugu64 posted:A little late to ask but is there anything inherently wrong with sticking blue painters tape on top of kapton? Blue tape (Scotch 2090) on a heated bed(60c) seems to be holding PLA (inland) way better then the kapton did without a raft. Tinkering around with this thing after work has been scratching my fiddle around with electronics bug, and made me feel like a nerdy middle schooler all over again There isn't much reason to put down kapton if you're just going to cover it.
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Sep 18, 2015 03:30
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 09:28 |
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The description notes that there's no active cooling going on. You can also see it causing some artifacts. In the back right there's some rippling going on. They think a fan would fix it.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:47
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