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I like and use fusion, but there are some major caveats to the free version. The whole one year at a time thing. They could stop it (very unlikely imo) or change and reduce the terms of what they're offering. Which they've done repeatedly. Another is that the free version is limited to 10 editable designs at a time. You can archive old designs so you don't lose them, but it's clunky and inconvenient. There are others, but these are the ones that have effected me the most.
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Mar 17, 2021 00:54
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aldantefax posted:Hello 3D printing thread! I am diving in head first to the world of 3D printing with a Flashforge Creator Pro and hope to scale up in the future to get another 3 or 4 that are in storage right now in production. I got the whole lot used for a deep discount, but due to space restrictions at the moment I am going to go with just one and then replace the nozzles and get the leveling and test prints done as soon as some PLA comes in (today, hopefully). I have the previous machine to the creator pro. It's a solid machine. Many people will probably tell you that simplify3d isn't worth it anymore, but these machines don't work with cura or prusaslicer (easily, there's a hacky software stack). The left nozzle on mine was removed. I've never missed it, and kind of recommend you do the same. It lowers carriage weight, reducing ringing. This lets you speed it up and increase print quality. Also that style of dual extrusion is extremely finicky to align. If want it go ahead, but again, I've never actually missed it.
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Mar 30, 2021 20:38
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The tool chain for using prusaslicer with a x3g printer is either. GPX in standalone mode. You take your gcode and run another program on it then drop it onto the sd card. It's not super convenient as it a console program that wants a number of arguments. GPX run by prusaslicer as a postprocessing script. Also bad as prusaslicer doesn't run it with additional arguments. To get around this someone has written either a batch file (that didn't work for me, for reasons I don't remember) or a perl script. I eventually wrote my own batch file. Octopi running a GPX plugin converting gcode on the fly. A friend of mine was satisfied running it this way. I found it to be unreliable and prone to hanging. I used it much later than he did, so maybe octopi started to ask for more things than the GPX plugin was prepared for? GPX and sailfish also apparently don't really agree with how prusaslicer wants to do toolchanges. I'm not really sure how, but the source I'm using talks alot about it. So if you'd like to make dual extrusion even more buggy (somehow?) There's that too. I overall, I don't recommend it unless you're explicitly unhappy with simplify3d and flashforge's slicer for some reason, and want to get into weird weeds.
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Mar 31, 2021 20:10
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It was done a few years ago, and there's a sample config for it. The primary issue was that it used a few peripherals that weren't on other printers, ex it uses thermocouples, digipots for current control, some are atmega1280 based, and a couple of other things. Other than the flashforges, old maketbots and a couple of other cloners, they're rare boards and have only gotten rarer. The people who would know and care about these problems (aka most marlin devs) would just as soon not buy the printer so not high priority. I've done work adapting marlin to new printers with odd hardware, but my current FF GPX based setup works well so I'm loath to touch it. As such I've never done the marlin conversion and don't want to guess my way though helping someone else.
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Mar 31, 2021 20:28
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I just can't stop writing about the Flashforge / mightyboard. The Rev D, E and F boards are basically supported. There are some problems with the arduino ide not actually referencing all the pins properly. Platform.io should work, but they've had some issues in the past with using an older library from arduino that doesn't. Apparently the the Rev G and H board switched the thermocouple chip the the ADS1118, which doesn't seem to be already be in marlin. Someone worked on it though, but doesn't seem to be merged in. Here's the page I based my slicer config for use with gpx on. The bat file didn't work for me because it still required perl and is only there if you want to use perl from WSL instead of a native perl interpreter. I didn't want to bother with perl at all and didn't feel I was missing out on much because it's mostly there to apply fixes to the second extruder. While it would still be helpful for second extruder only prints, I don't have a second extruder installed at all. Anyway, I wrote my own trivial bat to just invoke GPX with the proper arguments. To continue talking about problems, some portion of my workflow chokes on files with spaces in the name. I'm not willing to debug it further, but every once in a while it gets me. For completeness, don't use the gcode this page. There's a few problems with it. It'll work, but there are problems. The other page goes into this. I did use the comments to write a bat file though. Sagebrush posted:I think that aldantefax is using a Flashforge Creator, which is a clone of a Makerbot Replicator 2 Technically, the motion system is a Replicator 1 dual clone. It's not obvious because the case looks much more like a r2 instead of the laser cut plywood r1. They have a different steps per mm, and this tripped me up for a while, because I set the slicer at the time to the wrong setting and my prints came out at ~90% leading me to just scale them up in the slicer. Also the clones led makerbot to quickly release the r2, not open source it, and was basically the inciting incident to makerbot to move from their older open source based designs towards designs that cloners would have to reverse engineer. This culminated in the disastrous smart extruder. (Along with the stratasys aquisition.) aldantefax posted:Something's got the right nozzle on this machine jammed and I don't have any slim pokey things long enough to get into the feed barrel or whatever it's called with the nozzle and feeder tube out to get at it. I decided to just use whatever nozzle was on the left extruder and got it extruding no problemo! If you have some thing thin enough, just poke at it from below, usually it's enough to break up or dislodge the clog and it'll come though.
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Apr 1, 2021 04:17
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aldantefax posted:
230 def is on the hot side for pla. It isn't unheard of, particularly if you're trying to go extra fast, a steel nozzle, or just have a cold machine. Its usual range is usually more like 180-220, I'd probably try again at 200 or 210. There are also temp tower tests to see where the optimal temp for a specific spool/material/brand is. You'll probably have to look up simplify3d specific instructions.
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Apr 1, 2021 06:26
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It's not cooling the nozzle that you want to cool, it's cooling the plastic after it's deposited. I know there are ff compatible part cooling fan mounts out there. The one in front of me has one on it. You can also run it with the door open and w/o the hat. Pla doesn't need either.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:47
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Hadlock posted:What is the shopping list of extra crap I should buy for an Ender 3 Stiffer bed springs. They keep your bed level much longer. An aluminum extruder. The tension lever on included plastic one almost always eventually cracks. Of the commonly printed materials only ABS and ASA really solvent weld with acetone. You should be able to get HIPS to work with Limonene, and I think MEK as well. Neither of which are too nasty. For PLA, PETG, nylon and such you're looking at very nasty stuff. Baronash posted:Yep, Amazonbasics PLA. At z=0 (which may not be home) the nozzle should be right on the bed. A piece of paper is used because it's also bad to drive the nozzle into the bed, and for consistent spacing. If you used thick paper and had a light touch you're probably too far. It's also possible your bed is warped, and you may need to level for local parallelism where your printing rather than across the whole bed. How did you clean it?
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Apr 2, 2021 06:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:Hips glues well with model cement, which is mostly mek I think? Model cements are incredibly variable. Looking up msds they can contain
I'm sure there are others. Most models are made of polystyrene which honestly works with a wide variety of solvents. MEK in particular is recommended because it's not too nasty and is pretty aggressive. I suspect people recommend limonene because it works ok, and they know it from using hips as a dissolvable support. It's also not so nasty and smells nice.
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Apr 2, 2021 19:27
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Sagebrush posted:ABS is acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (styrene being usually about half the blend) and HIPS is high-impact polystyrene. Both should work quite well with any glue designed for plastic models. On the one hand, yes. On the other hand the limonene HIPS dissolvable support method is supposed to worked with ABS prints. If ABS is remaining hard after being soaked in limonene until the HIPS is soft or even dissolved it's probably not going to solvent weld if your cement is limonene based. There are some people who complain that the abs hips limonene method doesn't work as well as advertised, reporting squishy, bleached, or brittle abs. And there are people who say they get it to work perfectly. I'm just going to shrug, say it probably depends on a specific material mix the spool/brand/color is made of, and point out potential issues.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:39
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Hadlock posted:What is the current go-to tool chain for beginner level modeling and slicing? Fusion 360 + Prusa Slicer? To create some babbys first cube etc Depends on what you want. If you want mechanical stuff it's a good choice. They backed off blocking STEP export. That said 99% of the time you'll be saving bodies as a STL to print with.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:57
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You can still export STEP last time I tried a few weeks back. You can still get a dxf. Right click on a sketch in the left hand tree thing and select save as dxf. I do this all the time for laser cutting. Their headline messaging isn't clear on this, and I think they may have removed it from some kind of project export thing that I never used in the first place. If you need a dxf of a face just make a sketch on it, and it'll automatically project all of the geometry of that face onto the sketch. Then save the sketch. It'll be a very transparent blue so it's hard to see unless you turn off the body, but it's there. If this doesn't work you've probably turned off autoproject geometry in new sketches or something like that in your settings.
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Apr 2, 2021 23:14
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You can also tell the slicer to randomize the start and stop position per layer. Depending on the model this can be a big improvement as the errors don't stack up. If the starts and stops are bad it just spreads issues around the print though, so they should still be reduced. Other models are better with it aligned as it can hidden on a corner or on a less visible area (say, the inside of a leg).
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Apr 3, 2021 03:42
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w00tmonger posted:Saw a video of a benchy being printed in 6 minutes, and the thought of building a machine that can so that sounds dope as hell. Powerful extruder heater (ex volcano, but there are plenty out there), with excellent filament grip, light print head. You'll want a parallel kinematics, corexy or linear delta are the 2 most popular. If you wanted a more novel design, an h bot, a parallel scara, or rotary delta would also hold promise. Someone did an 11min on a bed slinger so there's a good chance you could get close on an ultimaker style cartesian. The voron gets a fair bit of love in this thread, but I suspect that printer is a HevORT, as it's linked in the description. Here's some more extra fast hevort action. CNCkitchen recently put out a video showing him getting started on a voron build.
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Apr 4, 2021 06:36
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It's also advantageous to increase the extrusion width if you can. Cnc kitchen found improved strength all the way out to 200% of nozzle diameter. Some of this is just more material, but a single .8mm line is stronger than two .4mm lines. It's also faster and bonds better. https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-effect-of-extrusion-width-on-strength-and-quality-of-3d-prints
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Apr 4, 2021 20:22
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snail posted:Go spend a few bucks on proper feeler gauges and use those for calibration. You already have paper. The actual distance is a red herring that you won't know ahead of time. To actually dial it in you need to dial it in with a first layer test. At best a feeler gauge will easily get you back to a value that you know works.
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Apr 4, 2021 22:05
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SchnorkIes posted:This is huge though I don't really agree. Once you know what you're doing dialing in a nearly working printer is easy, but this misses my big issue. It won't help you for the first time, which is when someone who's having problems is going to need the most help. Adding a feeler gauge to the process still doesn't help a new person with things like how a feeler gauge should actually feel. They'll get it wrong just as often as someone they go how hard should the paper be pinched, only now they've stopped what they're doing, went out to buy a new thing, and wound up in the same place. The end point is the same, dial in your first layer with a first layer test. Does it look wrong? It is wrong. E: The common and obvious instruction of dialing in your z to the gold standard a piece of paper is not the end. It is the start. A feeler gauge might give a better start (you know, if you know a reasonable thickness), but telling someone who's having first layer issues with an almost working printer to go out and buy a layer gauge won't get them a working printer. Explaining how a first layer test goes and how it should look will. Aurium fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 22:28
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snail posted:What do you mean not know ahead of time? There's a whole ritual about nozzle widths, materials and first layer heights, and there's a mountain of empirically developed knowledge of what to use. Strictly speaking, I'm generalizing more that necessary here. For something like pure PLA from a reasonable toleranced vendor, and a not poo poo cold end with .4mm nozzle, we could probably call out a thickness gauge that will work for 99%+ of people. If someone grabs some plastic out of the dumpster and shoves it into a nozzle they drilled out to ~1.1mm who the gently caress knows. snail posted:If I instruct my slicer to run a 0.3mm layer on the first layer, I expect 0.3mm, not some value that could be up to 30% off. We spent all this effort chasing e-steps and x/y calibrations and then hand wave the Z, wondering why the first layer isn't going down. By that you should be using a 0 thickness feeler gauge. You're unless you're explicitly compensating the thickness of your gauge somewhere in your slicer (z-offset, or some custom gcode are the most probable) or firmware(sooo many place you could) you're already hand waving the thickness of your gauge. If you are compensating for it. Well, good for you, and I mean it. Some of the nicer prosumer printers supply little thin strips of pei of some defined thickness and consistent surface quality to gauge against. It's a better thing. But if you are hand waving it, you'll need to tune in your first layer. Or pick gauges until you find one that works, which is equivalent. snail posted:Ah, I see your confusion. You should not 'feel' the feeler gauge, it either clears or it does not. You're not trying for a resistance test against an uneven surface. Now have that conversation with every new person who goes out to buy a feeler gauge because they also need to learn how to use it.
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Apr 4, 2021 22:58
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Hadlock posted:What's everybody's calibration pattern? Links please I just put down squares in the slicer where I want to look. Near the screws, maybe near the center, etc. I like prusa's model, a nice long tail so you can see if your bed is consistent, and a square to check for plowing. It's not as useful for manually leveled printers as it's harder to tell what's going on with a single line than a few next to each other. Though you can compare the flat top near the square vs far away. Someone has pulled the gcode back out, but I'm not super stoked about running gcode on a different machine, but read though it and it seems fine to run on anything. They also include a stl, though with the disclaimer that it's just there as a thumbnail, so I don't know if it's fit for purpose/the right size/how it would slice. Also. yikes/lol. Wibla posted:Is this peak "just get a prusa"? because it sure feels like it Well, they do use a bed sensor to skip the whole paper bit with the sensor and skip straight to how the first layer looks, along with building the test print into the firmware, and a few other nice automated things.
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Apr 5, 2021 00:51
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Hadlock posted:Is there a cheap flexible bed upgrade for the ender 3 series, can I just strap whatever Prusa are using on top on my glass plate There are, just search "ender 3 flexible build plate" I have no experience with any. What I can say, and why I'm posting anything (cause otherwise this would be a let me google this for you post) is that the prusa holds its bed on with an assortment of small Neodymium magnets embedded into the carriage, where as most of the upgrade kits use some of the stick on refrigerator magnet mat stuff. I think the prusa solution works a little better, as it doesn't stick another layer between the heater and the build surface, but the mat style is much easier to retrofit.
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Apr 5, 2021 01:16
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Wibla posted:I had to print a 3x3 inch test file to get it right, don't like the built-in pattern on the mini+ much beyond initial "get the nozzle close enough" stage. I'm going to guess heat creep, which some people have reported with the prusa mini. https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/l3jgpa/guaranteed_fix_for_your_prusa_minis_extrusion/ You could try pointing a fan at your printer. The goal is to keep the heatsink, and thus the heat break, cooler. The hotend can easily compensate for the additional thermal load, though the print itself could suffer. You could also try printing faster, as a continuous supply of cool plastic would also keep heat where it belongs. Just printing cooler could help as well, as less heat will transfer up. This assumes that the pla will still print. Ironically, most of these suggestions will make other sources of jams worse.
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Apr 5, 2021 01:49
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Their beds are as flat as pretty much anyone else's. They are aluminum core pcbs though, so you could do flatter yourself if you had a milled metal one. For other printers without compensation with similar quality beds it would depend a bit on the molten plastic dynamics. I would expect that the molten plastic would still flow down to the bed copying the contour, with far places having less squish than other locations, leading to a variable first layer thickness and patchy bed adhesion. For sufficiently tilted or warped beds without compensation would simply not print. I'll leave it as and exercise for the reader under what circumstances this is an improvement. Compensation can allow you to print with extremely flawed or tilted beds, though I know that the firmware will warn you about at least some of them. For xy skew the printer warns above .12° and calls above .25° skew severe. That's not this though. You can also get a report on the mesh, and thus quality/tilt of the bed and physically adjust it.
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Apr 5, 2021 03:20
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w00tmonger posted:How do I go about getting cut 2020 and 3030 extrusions. I have no loving clue what I'm doing and the only stuff I can find is big lengths There's a bunch of vendors out there that will cut it to length. None that I have experience with. Search for "pre cut aluminum extrusion." ebay also has a variety of standard pre cut lengths as well, if the dimensions work for you. I'm also going to shrug at the tolerances. I know misumi will do it, from talking with people they were happy with he quality, and complained about the price. But skipping them, hack saw (or a portaband) and a file/sandpaper to clean it up. You don't get anything approaching square cuts unless you're in practice. If you have one, a chopsaw and a nice high tooth count wood working blade (cross cut, not ripcut) will work in a pinch. Go easy. More over there are also blades actually designed for cutting aluminum. They look basically the same as woodworking blades, but have geometry designed for aluminum. Decent saw = pretty square. Not metalworking square, but pretty square. Effort can get you very square. This is what I do, and design around. There are ones designed for steel studs and conduit, I'm honestly not sure they'd be better or worse for aluminum vs a crosscut blade over them, as the tool geometry for steel and aluminum tends to be pretty different. If you're buying a new blade though, which I assume you would be, you really should get the one for the material you're cutting. After that there's the usual metalworking solutions. Though they're basically all different saws and finishing options. If they were a serious option, you probably wouldn't be asking in the first place. Guess based on recent posting: if you're doing a voron there are a few kits out there.
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Apr 5, 2021 04:04
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:How does it print? Fast? Any aftermarket upgrades I need to worry about? I don't have one, but just so you know, the ender 5 isn't a corexy printer. It's a serial cartiesian bot, just not a bedslinger. The entire x axis rides on the y axis, like the old makerbots. It's not a bad layout, they can be slightly faster than bedslingers, though still not great as the y axis has to moves the x axis instead of the print. They're usually easier to enclose, but this one has a bunch of stuff outside the superstructure, not really in this case. The real disadvantage is that they have a larger footprint and structure (aka cost) relative to their build area than a bedslinger.
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Apr 5, 2021 06:45
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If it's anything like the various ender 3 line up upgrades, try to find one with a 32 bit board and silent drivers. Imo 8bit boards with silent drivers are better than 32 bit w/o.
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Apr 9, 2021 01:07
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Syves posted:
Reprap firmware. Lots of nice features, excellent web interface. It's under active development. Mostly confined to the duet boards, so you probably won't actually be able to run it. There are a few ports to other boards. Rexxed posted:You should keep in mind voltages. Most computer fans, such as all of the noctua 40mm fans I can find, are 12V. The Ender 3 and many other printers are 24V. It looks like the Flashforge Creator Pro which you have is also 24V. You'll need a way to drop the voltage to run 12V fans like noctuas or pick a different model of 24V fans. This could be complicated if your printer is set up to vary the voltage to the fans to speed them up or down since it will probably use PWM for it, and running that through a buck converter might produce some anomalous results. I haven't tried it myself although I do run some 12V fans in my Ender 3, I just run them as chassis fans to keep the 2208 stepper drivers cool on the replacement mainboard so they're both running off of one buck converter. Maybe someone with more electronics experience than myself would know if there's a way to go there or if there's a better choice to drop voltage (two 12v fans in series might make sense but then where would the second one go). We had someone here running fans on a buck converter a while ago. It worked, but it basically disabled speed control. The fans after the buck converter just saw a constant 12v. There were also some fans on the same rail connected in parallel with the buck converter. They ended up being powered by the input capacitors of the converter, and didn't really throttle either.
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Apr 13, 2021 02:54
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Shamino posted:Someone talk me out of buying a cheap 5 year old lulzbot. I've always wanted one and have some extra room for another printer. It almost certainly runs 3mm filament, so you'd probably be stuck buying filament specifically for it, or doing a conversion. E: If you always wanted one, sure. The filament is the only thing I can really think of as an issue. I got an old ultimaker for much the same reason, and it also has 3mm filament. Aurium fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Apr 13, 2021 |
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Apr 13, 2021 02:56
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Nerobro posted:You wired it up wrong, you're not the first. Most of these boards control the switch to ground.... Stop using the positive from the board, and ground the fan through the board, and your PWM will work normally. We meaning this thread. On the other hand, yeah. That'd work perfectly. nice.
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Apr 13, 2021 07:05
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Dominoes posted:Out of curiosity, what types of things are y'all printing? I just started this adventure. Have been using to prototype electronics enclosures with an Ender3 in PETG and ABS. Am considering using in early iterations of commercial projects to validate interest before injection molding. One of the projects is heat sensitive, so ABS may be the best bet. 2 are moisture sensitive. I make a lot of different brackets. It makes working with pipe or 2020 incredibly easy. Connect them together at any angle you want. You want to mount a pcb to it? Camera? Holder for a mouse? Motors? Lights? A usb hub that was never designed to be mounted to anything? All easy. Also, holders and hooks. I've made a few mechanical toys, but mostly as little gifts. Nerobro posted:You're right.. I seem to vaguely remember that discussion. sorry for pointing it at you instead of everyone. No problem! You provided a solution to the problem I brought back up, so it was still a good post. (I will be honest and say the misattribution did bug me, so thanks for the apology as well!)
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Apr 16, 2021 05:26
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Baronash posted:I didn't bump up the speed for the new board, I ran at 70mm/s on the old control board as well. Current settings are the easiest thing for me to believe with what you've said. Those are intended to be drop in boards though so I'm surprised that they wouldn't come well configured. That said the old board could have just been set higher than the new board, and thus more able to go fast. If you move the carriage do you feel any binding? It's possible (unlikely, as I don't believe it comes with any default profiles) that your slicer is overriding the motor current settings in the start gcode. Look for a m906 or 907 code. The old board would have ignored it, as it wouldn't have been able to set it. I've also seen similar layer shifts with overheating drivers. It's possible the current is too high, too little airflow, or a stepper with a short, or some other problem on the board causing higher than expected ambient temperature. If possible try pointing a fan at the board. toplitzin posted:no cracks and running as direct drive. We just had someone with under extrusion caused by turning on mm3 mode on the printer. Any chance you might have turned it on in the slicer without turning it on in the printer?
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Apr 20, 2021 18:49
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But they look super professional!
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Apr 26, 2021 00:07
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Dominoes posted:Hi. Does anyone know how to fix this issue on the bottom side of my print? The surface shown in the majority of this pic is the button when printing. Presumably due to the holes that poke out, the support structure isn't separating cleanly, leaving the rough edge. I'm assuming I can fix this using the slicing software. How would you approach? Thank you. While not great, that's not all that bad as support scarring goes. If you want a truly cosmetic face you always have to value print time (placing a slower way up), post process time (ex. Sandpaper) and design. Ex, If you could make that face flat. You can reduce the extrusion multiplier. (Flow rate in cura) This may change dimensions a little, as well as affecting strength, and if pushed too far it'll compromise the print entirely as it will create gaps. Improved cooling would help. The most obvious way is a better part cooling fan, but there are inter layer pause and delay settings. Easier is to print at a lower temperature, with the caveats of part strength, and jamming if you go too low.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:05
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SchnorkIes posted:Stratasys and their licensees apparently use 70-100C for ABS-based materials. I feel like a lot of the jank and headache associated with hobby ABS over the years comes from the fact that it's being printed at 40C and not 70C and want to explore this moderate chamber temp range instead of using a cardboard box or focusing on PEEK performance. Sustained 70-100C isn't what I'd call "completely normal" for consumer 3D printer parts, though I agree that there are easier parts options for it than for 200C or whatever. First off, go for it. You'll probably get fine results. That said hobby ABS has frequently been printed completely in the open, much less with a chamber, much less actually heating one to 40C. So ABS being hard should be read in that light. To be honest I think you're ascribing too much to stratasys' choices. The early repraps quickly produced higher quality prints, it was under their guidance that makerbot's awful smart extruder was released, and being the patent holder they have an incentive to make the chamber sound needed, and that it was working hard (that it was strongly needed). But hey, if you want a project go for it. The feedback you're getting it just you don't need to as there are other setups that work well.
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Apr 29, 2021 03:11
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SchnorkIes posted:You might be right about Stratasys, very irritating company with their drat patent. Trying to think of some other mid-range kind of filaments to spec around, I know polycarbonate runs pretty hot and is prone to warping so that's a natural choice, some of the nylons would probably work well with more temperature control, maybe better to make sure it can go a bit higher than ABS on the material totem pole than trying to dial in on ABS. While neither of them are extrude particularly hot, both Polyethylene and Polypropylene are very warp happy and would benefit from a well controlled high temp chamber. They also don't want to stick to things making them even more likely to break free under small amounts of warping. And yea, nylon is always a good suggestion.
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Apr 29, 2021 04:16
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Opioid posted:Still having issues with my CR-10 V3 ever since I installed this BL Touch. Had some great prints before it, I just was doing the manual leveling in 4 corners using a piece of paper to hone in the bed level prior to every print. It looks like you should wash your bed. I'd recommend soapy water (ordinary dish soap) and be sure to get all of the soap off it after. Alcohol can just spread oils around so while it's good for maintenance, it isn't near as effective at removing them.
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May 23, 2021 22:34
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Huh? BLtouch is awesome. You bed can go seriously out of whack before it starts to affect the print. Of the 3 different sensors I've tried, (smarteffector, IR and BLTouch), it's been the most reliable and hardest to screw up. I'm also going to second this. Autoleveling in general makes things much more fault tolerant, allows for easier use for noncritical parts, gives convenient adjustment points, and adds tools for diagnosing problems. The bltouch is a good all in one package for adding a height sensor that doesn't depend on bed surface or construction. It can be a bit of a pain to setup particularly if you have an obscure printer. I did it once from scratch on a friends printer, and even having previous experience with configuring marlin it took a ton of troubleshooting and nonworking states. There's a huge amount of info for an ender. It is also not a necessity. It's most helpful on printers with unstable beds. The stock ender 3 qualifies, but the stiffer springs are such a cheap and effective upgrade that you really should do them. It's also helpful on printers with a very large bed. Hadlock posted:I saw a video where the guy just replaced the springs on his ender with solid aluminum spacers and put his trust in the BLTouch, which is an interesting take That is also how the prusa is setup. Nothing to adjust is nothing to drift out of adjustment.
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May 25, 2021 06:06
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah, but the Prusa also has live Z adjust if you need to use it.. So would a well configured marlin. E: I mean, it'll be called z baby stepping, but it's what you're talking about. Aurium fucked around with this message at 19:46 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 19:28
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NewFatMike posted:Thanks! I'll think about putting it together despite not really knowing lasers that well. Under typical use something as simple as a cardboard box would work for the incidental reflected light. It would only be a short delaying action if the laser breaks off and dangles around, or other situations where the beam could make direct contact with the enclosure. To be honest, if you expect your laser to make contact with the enclosure you're already doing something wrong. Direct contact with a 15w diode laser basically can't cut though even modestly thin plywood, (say 5mm), and would be my first recommendation for a reasonably easy and sturdy enough enclosure. But it can still char it, and thus plausably produce a fire. You're not really going to avoid the possibility of fire unless you go with metal. This is all kind of straightforward. More likely, you're asking about a window. Unlike CO2 systems, diode laser systems like that are firmly in the visible range. Basically, if you can see though it, be exceptionally wary. Looking it up, I've found that the ortur is a 445nm, 15W. So firmly a class 4 (there was never a possibility it wasn't, given it's a laser intended for cutting) So, that's really what you need to look for, a class 4 viewing widow rated to block 445. An an example without endorement. In contrast, here's something with basically the same example image, but with the explicit warning not to use it on a class 4 system. And here's a class 4 window, but not rated for 445, and would effectively be worthless on such a system. There's also measuring it by optical density(OD), which is how much the material attenuates light. I don't have experience with it, so I can't give practical info. Those sheets are rated at OD5+, as are many laser safety glasses. This might lead you to be live that this is good enough. You should also recognize that a laser 1/10th as powerful would still be firmly class 4, and they're just using that as a guideline that the sheet is good enough for class 4. Does that mean it's good enough for a 1.5w, a 15w, or a 150w class 4? FWIW, my read is basically yes. It's a log scale, OD3 is 1/1000. OD4 1/10000 OD5 is 1/100000. As a reference, a 5mw laser is safe (almost always true, but you can do some other things to make it not) a 15w * OD5 would be .15mw. At least until a direct laser strike burns or melts though the window. Which it may, as you'd be dumping 15w of power into the window. A direct strike on an OD3 would give 15mw of transmitted power.
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Jun 21, 2021 06:13
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If you live z adjust until you're closer to the bed than you would otherwise, do you get adhesion then? Not so far as your actually contacting the bed, but far enough that you'd start to see plowing. Aurium fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 21:46
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