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Got my Mars 2 pro setup yesterday and printed my first rooks. I'm super impressed with the detail and smoothness of the print, but they came out slightly crooked, like the bases collapsed on one side a little bit. I suspect it's because the flex plate that I installed has a tab on one side that sticks out and got caught on the edge of the tank. Any ideas how to avoid that other than cutting off the tab completely? Also, what do you use to remove supports after printing a model? and when is best to remove them? before curing or after?
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May 22, 2021 18:52
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 05:37 |
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Ok new newbie question. How long should I be washing an curing resin prints? or where can I find this information for the resin I'm using. I'm using Elegoo water washable, and I'm using it in an Elegoo Murcury wash/cure station. My rooks I washed in the station for 5 minutes then removed them from the plate, dropped into a new water vessel and scrubbed them lightly with a brush before putting them into the cure station for two minutes. That seemed to work but I just kinda did it on the fly.
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May 23, 2021 03:27
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Doctor Zero posted:I haven’t used water washable but that seems reasonable. I might go to 3-4 minutes for cure. Over washing doesn’t matter at all. Depends on how clean the Water/IPA is. I haven't seen browning, but I have gotten what looks like white powdery residue. I'm using black resin because I didn't know any better.
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May 23, 2021 18:38
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Finished my first (mostly) successful print last night. Didn't do the best job cleaning, I didn't have quite enough IPA to fully cover the model and had to turn it over in the pickle jar. Removing the supports left a little bit of damage on the back but I'm still pretty stoked. Gunna have to hit the drug store for more IPA this afternoon.
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May 26, 2021 17:28
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What's a good primer to use on resin prints? I tried Badger Stynylrez on my Ironman bust and it peeled off in spots when I removed some masking. Is there something that will adhere better resin? Ideally something I can spray with an airbrush and not a rattlecan.
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May 30, 2021 16:53
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Blender will import .stl files, let you edit them like that and then export them back to .stl I spent an hour or so watching a this guys video tutorials and learned enough about blender to make basic edits and modifications to files to meet my needs.
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Jun 5, 2021 22:23
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Did you re-level after installing the wham-bam plate?
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Jun 15, 2021 03:16
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I've only been doing this for a few weeks and so far my prints have been turning out great, except that they're lumpy on the surface where the primary supports are located. I've been dealing with it by orienting the model so the bottom or back is being supported but I'm looking to print some stuff that needs to look pretty smooth on all sides. Is there any way to prevent this?
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Jun 15, 2021 17:11
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RabbitWizard posted:Does anyone here have experience with....putting prints in your mouth? I printed a pacifier for a friends kid and it worked out well enough and now I think about printing one "for real". The part that goes into the mouth will be from a real pacifier of course, but I'm sure the thing will get chewed on anyway. I have read that you should not 3d print sex toys and I'm assuming that if you don't want it near your sexy parts you probably don't want it in a baby's mouth. Instead they recommend 3d printing a design, creating a mold and then casting it in a body safe material, mold making kits can be found at any arts and crafts store, but I'm not sure what type of castable material would be appropriate for baby chewing.
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Jun 15, 2021 17:59
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Today I learned the importance of putting drain holes in hollow resin models. I printed three spaceships and one of them I forgot to put drain holes in, so I drilled some holes, wasted a bunch of resin and made a big old mess.
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Jun 16, 2021 14:21
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Deviant posted:How big do you make them? I was doing 2 holes at 3mm diameter, and I don't think that's big enough, was trying to shake out IPA after a wash like the last jellybean in the jar. These are pretty big models so I've been making them 5mm. I ordered some 5mm UV LEDs to make a probe lamp for curing the insides of models, so I wanted the holes to be big enough to fit them. We'll see how that turns out when the parts arrive this week. Also put at least two holes at different locations in the model, one to let air in and the other to let liquid out.
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Jun 16, 2021 16:53
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I hadn't thought of using compressed air to clear them out. That's a great suggestion.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:35
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Toebone posted:I'm trying to print a copy of this HeroForge mini at 300% and it keep breaking apart. This is my fourth and most successful attempt, everything worked aside from the base. I tilted the mini back 45°, generated automatic medium supports in Lychee, then added a bunch of heavy supports. Build plate was just leveled, resin is 75°. Any ideas of what else to try? This looks like the results I got when i punctured my FEP and got resin on my screen underneath it.
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Jun 18, 2021 05:08
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Deviant posted:i guess i could just blast it on the wash and cure station and filter that Just don't do that in the cleaning bucket with the little wheel at the bottom. That's a setup for a bad afternoon. I left my IPA outside in a clear container for about a week, despite it being sunny and hot it didn't do anything for several days then suddenly yesterday there was a thick film of white goo around the sides of the container and all the IPA in the middle was clear again. I strained it twice and put it back into an empty bottle, I dumped all the goo onto a paper plate and left it in the sun for the afternoon to dry out and then threw what was left in the trash. Cleaning the container afterwards was a pain, since I can't just run it under the tap, more IPA and a lot of paper towels and it's ready for the next batch.
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Jun 21, 2021 01:45
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I initially confused screen gasket and screen protector and only got a gasket. Then I punctured my FEP and got hardened resin on my screen (but not inside my machine) so I had to spend an afternoon alternately spraying my screen with IPA and scraping it with a non-marring paint scraper. Fun times, don't be like me, get a screen protector AND a gasket.
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Jun 21, 2021 17:59
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InternetJunky posted:I don't know if you have a monochrome machine, but if you do then you got very lucky. For me, any monochrome screen machine that gets a resin leak has always resulted in a screen replacement being needed (unless I have a protector in place). The polariser that is on top of the screen is just so fragile that even great care with a scraper can still easily tear it. Yeah it's a mono screen, I might have gotten lucky, or the plastic "Razor Blades" i got a wallmart actually did their job as advertised. Either way I got all the resin off and have been making perfect prints since then.
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Jun 21, 2021 20:14
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Is there a better place than Amazon to order resin? I'm going through a lot of it. Also what resins do people recommend? I'm mostly printing minis and other small toys, I might do some enclosures for some Arduino projects in the future. I've tried Elegoo Water washable, and it printed fine but was a pain in the rear end to cleanup and properly dispose of. Elegoo Standard Gray and Plant Based Gray both printed fine. I got some of the Phrozen 4k Aqua and it seems to be a bit better than the Elegoo standard, but it's out of stock at Amazon. They have Blue and Green Aqua, but they don't say 4k and I'm not sure if there's a difference in print quality. Is there anything else people recommend?
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Jun 21, 2021 22:35
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InternetJunky posted:Ok, I have to try this now. That would be awesome. I've seen "ABS-Like" a few times, what does that mean? I'm not sure what ABS is (or more specifically what products I might have encountered that are made from it) and what properties of it I would want in a print. How does it differ from "Standard" resins? Doctor Zero posted:This stuff is my favorite, although it's not the cheapest. Low odor, good color, not very brittle, and doesn't discolor if overcured. It does go out if stock sometimes though, so you may want to stock up, or have an alternate. Yeah I got 4 bottles from their recent sale, now it's just about as cheap on Amazon, as their sale price was but they say "In Stock Soon".
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Jun 22, 2021 00:41
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Nah, the film and gasket thingie that protects the screen from resin drips or leaks. You mean a screen protector? Just search for “<model of printer> screen protector”
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Jun 22, 2021 05:41
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Acid Reflux posted:Nah, he's just punching little holes in stuff when he does hit it. A 5.56 round going ~3000 feet per second isn't going to transfer a whole lot of energy on its way through few millimeters of PLA, especially if it's soft from the heat. ...But he wore some crappy sunglasses and held his other hand up in front of his face. I'm sure that will protect him.
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Jun 27, 2021 23:33
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Would electroplating help with the heat issues though? The magazines were warping just from the ambient temperature, it seems like the parts wouldn't last long from the heat of firing multiple rounds.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:53
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I left a bucket of used wash IPA in the sun for a few days to let the resin cure out of it and it turned yellow. I strained out the resin jelly and was left with dark yellow IPA that didn't smell all that strong, I poured it back into my jug for re-use later. Anybody seen that? Will it affect it an any way?
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Jul 5, 2021 01:02
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Darth Brooks posted:
For printing small stuff, models, miniatures and action figures the detail on a resin printer is pretty much a necessity. For printing bigger things like statues, cosplay props or owrking parts a FDM printer is better. Here's a recent example of a resin print I did as an example.  There are a lot of people, including some in this thread making a business of 3d printing custom minis and collectibles. Doctor Zero posted:Yeah, it's the new Chitubox Pro and Basic that are the only versions that support the new encrypted file format right now. So I have a $500 E10 board sitting in a box doing nothing, because I need that new format to use it. Yeah, I could use parallels or something, but that's an even bigger pain in the rear end than just having to slice with Chitubox. On top of it, the only version I could use is a beta, so who loving knows how and if it will work doing that. So is the free version of Chitubox not going to support their special file format? I have the free version running on my mac, my printer accepts the .ctb files that it creates.
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Jul 6, 2021 17:17
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Fortunately I'm not looking to buy a new printer in the near future, hopefully by the time I do this will have been sorted. I really hate subscription software tools, I still use old pre-CC versions of all my Adobe products.
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Jul 6, 2021 18:51
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Deviant posted:What do people think of water washable resins? Babysitting this huge container of IPA is a chore. Would you prefer to babbysit a huge container of contaminated water? I tried water washable resin at first thinking it would be easier to deal with and it really wasn't. It took a lot more effort to wash with water and still resin residue was left on my prints. When I was done I had a container of resin contaminated water and no real idea how to dispose of it, so I left it in the sun for a few weeks for it to all evaporate. Deviant posted:I guess the followup is about how scuzzy do you let your IPA get before you filter/replace/whatever? I do: From the printer still on the build plate directly into the wash and cure station with 99% IPA for 3 minutes. Then scrape off the build plate into a pickle bucket with 99% IPA, returning the build plate to the printer. I remove the supports, give the areas around/under the supports a quick brush and then put them on a paper towel to dry before going into the curing station. The IPA in the first wash gets pretty saturated but it still cleans fine, I have yet to end up with residue on my prints from this method. If anyone sold the propeller buckets on their own I would buy a few of them immediately. Or if I could find a pickle bucket with strainer that was bigger... I've looked all over for both and come up empty.
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Jul 8, 2021 19:46
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Deviant posted:You using this same pickle bucket as everyone else? Yeah that's the one I use, it's perfect for minis and stuff, but large prints like vehicle models don't fit. I found one similar one that was taller and narrower on aliexpress but otherwise I can't find anything similar with a basket and an airtight lid. Edit: Turns out Elegoo sells the Mercury buckets, they're out of stock but had a link to Amazon, which has it in stock. My previous searches on Amazon didn't find it. Yay! Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 8, 2021 |
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Jul 8, 2021 20:39
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I have a mars 2 pro, which as far as I can tell is the same as a mars 2 but with a built in filter and a just slightly larger build plate. It works great, my prints are super detailed and I'm very happy with it.
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Jul 9, 2021 16:41
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RabbitWizard posted:I printed my first bigger thing, for me that is a print time of more than 10 hours. The mother of my gf is having a birthday soon and likes owls. I printed one in white PLA. Then modified a tree stump model to grab the owl a bit so it doesn't fall off and printed that with wood filament. First off… Adorable. Second, wtf is wood filament? How does that work?
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Jul 13, 2021 08:36
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Biggest problem was the need to be hollow. I used 5% Archimedean Chords in Prusa which were relatively easy to pull out but leftovers can be seen if you look at it from the top.
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 05:37 |
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What do you all do with empty resin bottles? I assume I can't just throw them in the recycling bin.
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Jul 18, 2021 18:57
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