MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Got my Ender 6SE a couple days ago and have been printing near non-stop with out of the box filament, and settings, and it's been drat flawless so far (and nothing has caught fire). It's also so quiet, I have to keep checking to see if it's still working sitting 10 feet away from it.

My Ender 5 was having bed adhesion issues, but I'm going to move it into a back room without AC and put it in an enclosure, so hopefully that will be my factory workhorse.

FirstAidKite posted:

What's the typical initial cost for someone who wants to try some 3D printing, like the overall cost for printer, materials, and anything else that is required beyond the printer and materials?

I doubt I'd be getting into it anytime soon but I'm interested in printing some stuff for tabletop gaming and I'm not entirely sure what I would even need to be looking for in a decent 3D printer.

Also, dumb question but are 3D printers noisy or something that requires dedicated ventilation due to fumes or bad odors?

You will need at bare minimum 1) a printer and 2) some filament. I'm pretty sure most printers come with some filament, so you can probably just get away with #1. I wouldn't recommend going all out on a high end printer if you are unsure. $300-$400 seems like a decent price point for budgeting, but you can probably get cheaper.

When you say table top gaming, do you mean minis or terrain or both? On a filament printer, minis will look anywhere from not bad to crappy, depending on the printer and your ability to tune the slicer in. Terrain takes a surprising amount of print surface depending on what you print. If you want good quality, it also takes a while depending on how many parts you print at once.

Some 3d printers are noisy - you probably don't want to put it next to your bed. But they are generally quieter than AC units. Filament printers are very non-toxic. Resin printers are highly toxic and (from what I hear) smelly. They do, however print minis way better than filament printers. I don't have direct experience with those though, so I'll just stop there.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Sep 2, 2020

# ¿ Sep 2, 2020 23:24

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 07:14

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

FirstAidKite posted:

Potentially terrain but if I had a 3D printer, a majority of its use would be for miniatures. I don't mind doing any cleanup work on them to make them look more presentable and to try and mitigate that sorta grainy look 3D printed stuff has, but ideally I'd want to be able to minis that are at least "not bad." What would you recommend for that?

I have had horrid luck printing minis, but mostly because I never got my settings down right for supports and supports in Cura were really lovely for a while. They have since improved that, but I'm too busy printing terrain right now to try a miniature again. I will soon.

I have an Ender 5 and an Ender 6SE. I would think an Ender 3 would be just fine since it's pretty similar in quality to the 5. I'm printing terrain on the 6SE with a .4 nozzle and .12 MM layer height and it's been really nice. The layers do show when you prime stuff, so you either have to sand it, or prime it with something that fills in a bit. I've ordered some gesso to see if that works. The 6 has been printing some nice accessories like cabinets and carts and stuff. I'm also working on printing out an entire Red Rocket (I'm printing mostly Fallout Wasteland Warfare stuff).

On the Ender 5 I have switched to a .2mm nozzle and I'm printing at .08 layer height, and things are coming out very nice but they take a really long time to print. I will try to print a mini again soon, after I clear out my queue of stuff to ensure I have the settings down nicely. (As I said above I've been having print bed adhesion issues with that one).

So you may want to look at the Ender 3 - it's priced reasonably and it's a decent starting printer. There may be better ones out there for minis, but mine have been absolutely stellar for terrain (and I don't have first hand knowledge with anything else).

Also, your slicer is going to make a big difference. I have been using Cura because it supports Mac and it's fairly easy to pick up, and it's free. I have read that Simply3d is a little better at fine printing and supports, but I haven't tried it yet because it's not cheap. But that may be the difference I need. We will see.

E: I just looked, and you can get an Ender 3 Pro on Amazon for $236 in the states because it's on sale.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 7, 2020

# ¿ Sep 7, 2020 19:19

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Well, thanks, because you asked, I looked into resin printers and the Anycubic Photon is only $169 and the new version that comes out within the next month is pre-oreder for $209 so of course I pre-ordered the new one. :homebrew:

I guess I can let you know how it works.

# ¿ Sep 7, 2020 20:17

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

drunk mutt posted:

Anycubic is having a 5 year anniversary sale as well as it looks like they are introducing new lines for both FDM and Resin.

The reason I mention it is, the Fusion is only $169 USD right now ( https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer ).

https://www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-5th-anniversary

I preordered the new one for $209 but there is also the wash and cure machine on sale for $129. Anyone know if that�s worth it or am I better off building my own rotating platform and UV light box? I�m pretty handy but also not opposed to paying $ if it saves time and :effort:

# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 23:00

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Rexxed posted:

Creality's making a belt printer. Long loooong prints.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UwaWLnGmXk

Wow.... under a grand. Would be awesome to get if you are selling prints, but with that being released, the market may saturate quickly. Still awesome.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2020 11:50

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sagebrush posted:

Yeah, half a roll of carbon fiber filament will destroy a brass nozzle. Regular PLA isn't anywhere near as abrasive, but it will still wear down over time.

Personally I put an E3D NozzleX on all the printers and forget about it. It will essentially never wear down even a little, and 20 bucks is not that much more than a good quality brass nozzle anyway. The cheap 10-pack brass nozzles are false economy because they are frequently drilled to the wrong size and have rough tip geometry. The nozzle is literally the central tool of your entire printer so don't cheap out.

Do you have to crank up the hot end temp?

# ¿ Sep 10, 2020 23:58

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Anyone had any issues with heat creep on Prusament filament? I love the stuff, but if I print anything longer than 2 hours on my 6SE, the filament gets hung up in the Bowden tube. I think I can use it in my 5, because I have an all metal hotted in that and the Bowden tube doesn't get very warm, but if that doesn't work I'm going to be all :negative:

because it really is gorgeous filament.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2020 15:21

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Sounds like a lovely hotend problem.

Quite possibly, but I don�t have the same problem with any othEr filament.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2020 18:29

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Doctor Zero posted:

Quite possibly, but I don�t have the same problem with any othEr filament.

Yes, I'm quoting myself. It turns out I do have the same problem with another filament, it just doesn't happen every time. I printed some of the samples that came with the printer and they turned out fine each time, so I am now trying to figure out what the gently caress I did in Cura to cause this.

# ¿ Sep 14, 2020 20:33

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Oh my god Simplify3d is :swoon:

# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 23:19

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

stevewm posted:

Meh... I still wish I never wasted the money on it. It doesn't do anything better than any other major slicers out there these days.

And LOL, it still doesn't seem to support sending directly to Octoprint or Duet without a curl script. Something that has been a requested feature since like 2017.

I just have experience with Cura but S3D is like 100 times faster, has way better rendering, and I love the process concept. I�ve always wanted Cura to do something like that neatly. Plus it has the printer terminal. Not supporting Octoprint does suck since I just bought one. Oh and I�m pretty sure you can split large prints up too, which I know Cura doesn�t do.

I still have 12 days to cancel it, but right now I love it. What else besides Cura would be comparable? I�m on a Mac so I�m a bit limited by that. Matterhackers?

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Sep 16, 2020

# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 23:56

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

stevewm posted:

I always end up back at PrusaSlicer. (A fork of Slic3r) Which does have a Mac version.

Cool! Thanks. I'll check it out.

# ¿ Sep 17, 2020 00:36

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I put calipers on the copy paper I use and it�s .10 mm. I�ve recently seen people recommend 3x5 cards, so I ordered some. I suppose I could use Magic cards lord knows I have a shitton that aren�t worth anything.

# ¿ Sep 21, 2020 21:08

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

RadioPassive posted:

I did this, and now the first layer adheres to the bed, but it is extremely thin. It is visibly close to the "too low" lines in the posted image, but without gaps in the print on the first layer. Each further layer under extrudes and looks starved for filament, including many gaps in the print as in the image.

I do not think this is a z-offset problem.

What would the fix for under extrusion be?

Calibrate the extruder?

# ¿ Sep 21, 2020 22:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

A 3x5 card is .27 mm and copy paper is .10. So I have no idea why I�ve been seeing videos that say level with a 3x5 card unless it�s because it is stiffer, and then you adjust to Z offset to compensate. Weird.

At least I have 3x5 cards now if I ever need to do a high school research paper.

:shrug:

# ¿ Sep 23, 2020 16:24

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Motronic posted:

The particular piece of paper you have in the bond and weight you have it in from that manufacturer is .10. Paper is not a universal thickness.

Sure but unless you are using card stock to print on, it�s not going to be as thick as 3x5 cards. That�s what I was getting at.

# ¿ Sep 23, 2020 17:42

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sagebrush posted:

It doesn't matter what you use to set the initial nozzle offset because you always must adjust it before the first print. You can use a piece of paper or an index card or a feeler gauge or a 1-2-3 block and they will all be consistent and they will all be wrong (or if one is right it's pure coincidence).

Get the nozzle offset in the ballpark, run a calibration routine, and adjust by eye until the traces look like the reference images I have posted many times before.

If you are having to manually set the offset across multiple points on the bed like it's 2012 again, or if your machine doesn't have a live Z adjustment, get in the future with a bed sensor and modern firmware.

Cool, that's what I thought. :cheers:

# ¿ Sep 23, 2020 20:02

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

calandryll posted:

Yeah I don't use it for dimensional accuracy, it's just a quick way for me to see if I've fixed a problem.

The reason I was thinking it was a clogging issue was sometimes the extruder drive creaks or pops and from my quick search it was suggested a potential clog in the nozzle. One thing I do see is that my extruder will grind some on the filament, leaving behind little pieces. Which also suggested a potential clog.

All 3 cubes were printed with the same gcode at the same temperature, etc. Previously, I did a heat tower and the best results were at the temperatures the cube was printing at. I'm just confused why in a few days things have gone to poo poo. I have other nozzles I'll try replacing it. I have another spool but it's probably not as dry as it should be but I've seen similar issues with the extruder grinding on it.

Maybe I'll look into the cost of a direct drive for my printer.

Dumb question. Has the temp in the room you print in changed? It�s getting cool here so the basement where my printer sits is about 5-10 degrees cooler. I noticed things that used to work fine starting to get issues so I slowed down my print speeds a little and it seems to help. I will be playing with temperature settings this weekend to see if I can crank up the speed again.

I dunno just a thought. The vets in the thread might say it�s coincidental.

# ¿ Sep 25, 2020 18:50

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Are heated filament boxes A Thing people use or are they just to sucker Amazon shoppers?

(I mean the boxes that are used while you print)

I just leave my filament on a spool and I go through it in a couple weeks.

# ¿ Sep 25, 2020 23:22

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Hypnolobster posted:

A feed drybox is worth it, and while it's easy to add a heater it's extremely not necessary as mentioned by others.

It's nice to know that you can walk away from the printer for a week or three and not even consider moisture problems.

cool, thanks goons. That picture gives me ideas - we have the exact same containers... :hmmyes:

# ¿ Sep 26, 2020 00:34

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Maigius posted:

What are some good filament brands that have a shorter delivery window than Prusament? Asked for some for my birthday, and my parents need recommendations.

I got my Prusament (in the states) within a few days. They sent DHL international tracked. MatterHackers website also sends very quickly and they are in CA. I haven't actually used it yet, but I got their MatterHackers Pro brand that's supposed to be as good as Prusament.

# ¿ Sep 28, 2020 11:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

My new Photon Mono just came today. I probably won't be able to do anything with it until the weekend though. :negative:

I can post pics of how things come out.

On that note, why do I see so many models online with people complaining about them not being pre-supported? Are the Slicers for SLA really lovely with supports, or are people just lazy?

# ¿ Sep 30, 2020 00:56

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PirateDentist posted:

I ordered an Anycubic photon and wash station about 40 days ago, finally due to arrive this weekend.

Still unable to find isopropyl in any large bottles. Anyone know a good substitute I could use in the wash station that�s remotely affordable? Or do I need to start collecting a shitload of tiny 70% bottles one trip at a time?

You can get big containers of 99% IPA on Amazon again assuming you are okay with or can order on Amazon.

# ¿ Sep 30, 2020 23:09

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Probably nobody cares, but I think this is amusing.

Anycubic: We've shipped your AnyCubic Mono!
Me: Hooray! :derp:

(box shows up) WTF, this is the wash and cure station.
Anycubic: Your Wash and cure station has been delivered!
Anycubic: We've shipped your Wash and Cure!
Me: :what:

Anycubic: .....
Me: (new box shows up) Here's the printer. :hellyeah:

# ¿ Oct 1, 2020 13:06

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Owlbear Camus posted:

getting this phenom up two flights of stairs on a dolly is going to be my upper body workout today. Made it to the first landing.

E: is there a good glue to use to bond resin to resin, or is just dabbing a little more resin and curing it the only way? I can't seem to get parts to bond for poo poo.

What are you using?

# ¿ Oct 1, 2020 23:05

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Owlbear Camus posted:

Photon resin in the Photon and Siyara in the Phenom.

I mean to glue it.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2020 02:11

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

csammis posted:

It�ll come separate. I believe that there are postal regulations about shipping resin with anything else.

Opinions differ but I love the Anycubic water washable resin. I started out using normal IPA-wash stuff and after I switched, gently caress using anything else. It�s so much easier for cleanup and ambient smell and it comes right out of the tap. I don�t know about current times but at the beginning of the pandemic it was goddamn impossible to find 99% IPA. I bought a 12-pack right before things went to hell but the impending availability problem was the impetus for my switch.

Do you have to change the exposure time or whatever it�s called when you are printing? I may switch if not since I routinely dump distilled water from the dehumidifiers down the sink. I could use that instead even thought I just bought two gallons of IPA.

# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 13:48

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

sharkytm posted:

Umm, dehumidifier condensate isn't distilled. Distilled is like $2/gallon at CVS.

And don't dump resin waste down the sink, not that you were advocating for that.

Ah you are right. I mean condensate. Regardless, I�ll not sure I�d use tap water, but the stuff the dehumidifier has doesn�t have any minerals and I get like a gallon free every day.

# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 18:30

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

csammis posted:

I think you may be overthinking this part. You�re just going to be rinsing off models and maybe the build plate (I use damp paper towels followed by dry to wipe the plate). My rinsing container holds about a quart and I�ll go maybe a dozen prints before it gets even a little cloudy. Prints go in, get a swish and a light scrub with a soft brush to get it out of crevices, they come right out. It doesn�t have to be hyper pure and it doesn�t have to be in any great quantity.

I could be! I�ve only been doing this for 48 hours!

So the test prints on the Anycubic Photon Mono came out excellent, but those are boring, so here�s my first real print.

It�s as good as resin minis if not better, because there are no mould lines. (The one on the left is primed)

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Oct 5, 2020

# ¿ Oct 5, 2020 00:09

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Here's my running total for the new Anycubic

Sliced in Chitubox: 2 print failures (out of 2)
Sliced in PrusaSlicer: 0 print failures (out of 3)

To be fair, I probably need to adjust the support settings in Chitubox, but without touching anything, the PrusaSlicer just works and Chitubox does not. ( I am using auto support as a starting point and then adding manually to any islands in both).

At least I know how to clean the resin tub now!

# ¿ Oct 7, 2020 16:56

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Yooper posted:

What's your workflow for using PrusaSlicer with the Anycubic resin printer? Is there a PrusaSlicer profile for it?

Not yet. I have the Anycubic Photon Mono and it uses a different file type as the rest of the Anycubic lines so the only thing I can do the actual slicing in is the provided version of Anycubic slicer.

My workflow is load the model up in PrusaSlicer, rotate it 35 degrees or so, turn the supports down to 70-80%, mash auto-support, then use the layer slider to look for islands. Then I export as STL with supports, load it into Anycubic Slicer and have it create the file.

I suppose I should pass it through Anycubic validation, but meh, it works so far. :shrug:

Funny note, the Wash and Cure station I also ordered doesn�t even work with the build plate on the Mono. I had to rig up a couple of plastic retainers from a clock we got in order to mount the build plate in the Wash station. :haw:

# ¿ Oct 7, 2020 21:59

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Question for SLA printing - If I have an STL that doesn't need supports (no islands), should I still create supports for the bottom? It's a wall for buildable scenery, so it's kind of a big rectangle and should be pretty easy to lever off the plate.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2020 14:31

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

NewFatMike posted:

You can print directly on the plate, but you do risk bending it on removal more than it being on supports over a raft.

Good point, since it's not cured. Okay, supports don't add that much material. Thanks!

# ¿ Oct 8, 2020 15:12

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Nerobro posted:

There's also something to be said for releasing from the resin tub. It's common for things with large flat areas to be printed at an angle to help prevent large areas sticking to firmly to the bottom of the tub. (At least i think that's the reason)

Makes sense since I just tried a test print and the part that was aligned flat pulled right off the supports and the one that was angled did not. I guess I'm angling everything from now on.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2020 18:48

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Those look great! When I got my ended 5 the filament was merely okay. When I got my 6 the included filament was decent enough that I actually ordered a second spool from creality.

On the subject of 3D programs what do people think would be best for making scenic mini bases and maybe one day bigger terrain? I�m not so interested in making minis themselves.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2020 21:27

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sagebrush posted:

For anything organic and sculpted you're gonna want ZBrush ($) or Blender. I'd suggest starting out with the Blender sculpt mode to see how you make out.

CAID programs like Rhino or Alias are well suited to smooth hard organic forms, like say a car body or GLaDOS, and to mechanical objects, but not to living things.

3D solid modeling programs like SolidWorks or Fusion 360 are very well suited to mechanical design and not great at anything else.

Sweet. Thanks. There is also a free version of Zbrush called zbrush core mini that I can check out.

# ¿ Oct 9, 2020 14:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Can people not use Sculptris for that any more?

I think Sculptris is now that Zbrush Mini Core thing. At least I couldn't find a recent link for it for Mac. Maybe my Googlefu sucks.

# ¿ Oct 9, 2020 17:40

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I go back and forth. But I just had an idea for interlocking tiles and I think that would be easier in Blender. Welp time to learn a new tool!

# ¿ Oct 9, 2020 18:05

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PirateDentist posted:

My anniversary sale photon came in a week ago, while nice, fumes were not nice. After trying one other crappy solution to deal with that, I just went gently caress it and printed an adapter for the back vent to a 4" hose. Got a dryer duct, an inline variable speed fan, and a big carbon filter. Amazon thinks I've got a grow op going, but I have completely eliminated all resin smell entirely. Not really any louder than the stock fans either.

Did you vent it outside? Mine is in the back workshop which already gets cold enough in the winter that I'll probably have to put a space heater in it, so I don't exactly want to go cutting holes in the wall. Also, if you could link the adapter, that'd be swell. The fumes don't really bother me much but if I could reduce it, that would be cool.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2020 22:14

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 07:14

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PirateDentist posted:

Nope, it's entirely inside. I was going to vent it outside, but decided to give the filter a try, otherwise it'd still go outside. As long as the fan is pulling enough air I can stick my nose underneath the LCD right on the printer and can't smell any resin. I can't get a hint of it coming out of the filter either.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754 I printed it on my other printer in PLA.

I got the parts suggested in the details of the file since they looked fine. It was about $100 total, but you could probably go cheaper with the fan if it'll be in remote room. The carbon filter is like 70% the size of the photon. For testing I just set the fan right on top of it, the weight alone keeps a seal. If you still wanted to vent it outside, if you built a little housing or something out of a bucket it'd be a nice final filter to keep the smell from bothering anyone near the vent.

Sweet thanks!

# ¿ Oct 12, 2020 03:05

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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