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Delivery McGee posted:
I wondered about that, my only guess is so that people don't tear their hands up and sue or something. The really good keyless chucks, however, don't need keys. The one Dewalt uses is amazing.
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Mar 8, 2011 01:50
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truncated aardvar posted:I'm looking at a drill bit sharpener. I'm looking at Drill Doctor - anything else I should consider? That's what my dad has. It's been absolutely awesome. I was really skeptical for a little while but it actually works shockingly well.
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Mar 24, 2011 07:38
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Seriously, he's right. For that matter, that whole era of tools (and the era slightly before) was all fantastic stuff that will last forever. My dad has a Van Dorn 1/2" drill that truly is ridiculous in terms of durability and torque. It's almost impossible to stall it out, and it will lift you off your feet if you're not careful. We've got a Stanley from the same era that's 1/2" and just as impressive. I really want a 50's Thor 3/4" drill. And a 20's Van Dorn 1/2" Ugh I love old power tools.
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May 6, 2011 06:49
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Those Hakko irons rock. I really wish I'd have bought one instead of my WES51. The stand alone is a lot nicer, and weller insists on sending pointed tips with their irons.
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May 19, 2011 15:12
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Oh my god, I've used those before. They're loving terrifying. Wire wheels on a grinder are pretty grabby and you can smash a finger into something if you're not careful. Carving miners/wood grinders are a hold the grinder against your hip and hold on for dear life sort of situation.
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May 20, 2011 03:07
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With cutoff wheels on grinders, you need to be fairly cautious of sideloading them too much, which can make them break apart (always wear eye protection) It's important to never use them like a normal grinding wheel, or at least very gently if you're trying to save time and knocking off a burr/whatever. You've also got to be careful with which side of the wheel you're pushing into the material and which direction the body of the grinder is facing. Generally you want the body pointing towards you and the wheel pulling the grinder away, and to pull the wheel backwards into the material. It'll work pretty much any direction, but you need to hold the grinder steady to keep it from hopping in and out of the cut.
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Aug 20, 2011 19:15
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LordOfThePants posted:These are what I used to buy when I was in charge of purchasing safety eyeware at my old job: This design rocks. They're all I've worn for the past 3 years at my job. I generally wear a pair of the tinted ones when I'm outside, and a pair of the clear ones in the shop. I keep a few extra pairs in my locker so I can have nice clear goggles under a welding helmet and I don't have to keep taking them off. Work stopped buying the condor/AQ brand ones and switched to shittier square glasses, so I've been buying these. http://www.amazon.com/DPG54-1C-Performance-Lightweight-Protective-Wraparound/dp/B000FPANVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317867339&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/DPG54-2C-Performance-Lightweight-Protective-Wraparound/dp/B000FP8IGS/ref=pd_sim_hi5 Dewalt branding, but it's nice to have some distinguishing colors on my glasses so I know which are mine.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:19
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Anubis posted:Has anyone used one of these alaskan sawmills before? http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317916128&sr=8-1 Ideally you need a chainsaw with a lot of rear end for chainsaw mills. I've done it with a Stihl 440 and 660 and it works fine, although it's still not terribly fast. Ripping with a chainsaw tends to clog up, get fairly hot and take quite a while. It makes some gigantic strings of wood rather than chips.
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Oct 6, 2011 20:56
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Anubis posted:Hmmm, I have a 46cc 20" Poulan. If the blades are sharp and time isn't really a huge issue (as long as it's not taking an hour per 6' or anything stupid like that) do you think I could handle 10-12" wide logs? I know I'd be way under powered for 16-18" but if I could even do a 10" wide run that would make it worth my while. That should do it if you go slow. You're going to need to make really really sure that the teeth are good and sharp, rakers are right and the bar oiler adjustment (if it's got one) is wide open. Ripping really is pretty hard on saws, and 10' cut will really heat things up.
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Oct 7, 2011 01:19
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That harbor freight set is totally usable. The slipjoints are sort of loose compared with quality stuff, and the sidecutters will turn into mangled pieces of poo poo after some harder usage. Still worth the $10 e: on a related note, the Vise Grip Groovelock pliers are absolutely awesome. 10" v-jaw option is pretty much perfect. http://www.cycleworld.com/2011/06/14/irwin-vise-grip-groovelock-pliers-tool-time/ 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 20:19
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That mostly seems hugely annoying, and probably also hugely unsafe, contrary to the entire idea.
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Dec 14, 2011 04:42
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If you're feeling strong, throw on a pair of gloves and just unscrew it by holding onto the grinding wheel, hold it close to your chest and get a bunch of leverage by pulling your arms apart and back. It works great, unless you put the wheel on with one of the wrenches or you wore the wheel down really far. Sometimes just a palm grip on a very worn down wheel will do it too.
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Feb 7, 2012 08:43
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They rule, and particularly rule for electrical work. If you look around a bit, it's not hard to find the combo packs of two tools, a charger and two batteries that's often the same price as just a single tool. The non-impact driver is probably the best for electrical for doing switches/outlets/conduit/driving screws/panels/etc. The impact will do a little better in terms of power, but it's not as controllable for finish work. The new fuel brushless versions are impressive, too. I've got the hex impact and the fuel 3/8 impact, my brother has the hex impact, the regular hex driver, drill and the jobsite radio (which rules). He's probably going to pick up the little portaband at some point too, as it's the perfect size for cutting unistrut. Brother is a commercial plumber, I work for a park system building trails/welding/repairing equipment. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 05:47
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Doublethink posted:Any recommendations for a good caulk gun? I have an elcheapo delux manual gun already but i loving hate that thing, it works good enough for basic sink caulking and poo poo like that. Need to caulk some cracks in some hardy plank siding. Lots of ladder time on this project so something that is easy to handle, comfortable, and smooth to work would be preferable. Would like to keep the tool cost below $150. http://www.amazon.com/Newborn-Brothers-930-GTD-Trigger-Drip-Free/dp/B000BQS5GO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top This one in particular is great, but most of the "dripless" guns are absolutely bitchin. They're progressive instead of having a ratchet, which largely keeps the drip/slowly tapering spooge problem from happening. Definitely qualifies as smooth and comfy. I personally can't really stand the electric caulk guns, I need the feel from the good manual ones. e: any good caulk gun should have a way to hang it on a ladder/pants to get your hands free, and a tip cutter/seal poker. Those things alone usually make life a lot nicer. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 00:57
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I've always wondered if replacing cells in dead, tired batteries would be worth it over buying new (often expensive) batteries. I've never remembered to pull one apart when they die, I usually chuck them and then remember the next day.
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May 31, 2013 04:29
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wormil posted:I'm looking at tap and drill sets and found this Greenlee set that drills and taps at the same time, it has good reviews. I haven't done any tapping before... comments on this or other recommendations? They work great in my experience, but you can't use them on anything thick. Less than 1/8" if I remember right. I used them for building a few different projects out of 3/16" steel and they're really nice and fast. I'd recommend getting a regular set, and if you've got a drill press, tap guides are a wonderful thing.
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Jun 14, 2013 22:14
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If it'll fit, then a miter saw is going to be far faster.
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Sep 2, 2013 00:57
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If you store then with the left side down, they wont leak/will leak less. Obviously this doesn't work with a long bar unless you rest it on something. It's just leaking past the oil pump. They're a giant pain to replace and 2-6oz of oil leakage isn't really a terrible waste. I don't really recommend turning down the oil flow control to keep it from leaking. That should always be cranked wide open, and you'll probably forget someday and toast a bar and chain. This is assuming that it's leaking out from the bar and not because the cap is loose or something.
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Oct 24, 2013 02:24
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Same goes with rigid. Decent tools, great value, and the lifetime warranty is not something to get lax on.
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Nov 18, 2013 03:47
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Anubis posted:If we were to assume that money was of no object (it never isn't but let's go ahead and start there), what is the best hand drill (corded or cordless) in people's opinions? It's mostly for woodworking, so if that affects any opinions. I've been using a cordless ryobi 18v cordless (which has been reasonable but the batteries are dying) and an old 70/80s craftsman plug in that is slowly dying. Christmas time says it's time to get something nice. Milwaukee is almost certainly the leader in battery tools at the moment, closely followed by Dewalt. Everything else is a mild step down, but truly in this day and age you can't go terribly wrong with any known good brand.
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Dec 26, 2013 15:54
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Start with air. Good air tools are around the same price per tool and last decades longer than the currently best Makita and Milwaukee battery tools. e: I guess I'm thinking about just working on cars/equipment in the garage and impacts/air ratchets/grinders/etc. If you're talking about actually building a house and garage and electric vs air for that purpose, I'd get battery tools. Still would need air nailers, but little compressors for that are cheap anyway. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 09:31
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If you like Canadian Explanations, here's a good one explaining the typical inner workings of an electric impact. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOpVnhdx58w 2:00 begins the hammer portion
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Jul 26, 2014 13:51
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coathat posted:Anyone ever use one of these Tri-vise things? http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Vise-PVL001-4-Plate-Vise/dp/B0035BBI52 Get this instead. http://www.lowes.com/pd_201222-89771-LLL001_0__?productId=3116981 I use one at work occasionally. It's pretty handy. Too much paint on the spot for 2x8, at least for treated wood. Had to hit it with the grinder for a minute to get it to slide over. Otherwise it's great for quick stuff.
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Nov 10, 2014 14:42
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wormil posted:The best is when you mark and cut a piece you already cut for something else. I've been doing a lot of shop projects at work lately, carts, cabinets, fancy tool hangers, etc. We work 10h days, and I usually push my shop days even longer because I'm having fun, but good lord I've learned that I completely fall apart after about hour 9. I've been halfway through assembling cabinet carcasses and found one panel the wrong size after spreading glue about 3 times now. Lots of pocket holes on the wrong side, lots of dowels referenced off the wrong edge, etc.
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Nov 17, 2014 03:03
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Nothing wrong with used compressors. As long as it doesn't look like it's been running nonstop for a year doing a house remodel, go for it. Are you sure you need a pancake compressor? Good for a brad nailer/finish nailer and filling car tires but not much else. e: beat me on the edit. I don't really hate pancake compressors, they just get used a lot for things they can't do well. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 30, 2014 |
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Nov 30, 2014 04:06
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I want to get a router, mainly for use in guitar-related projects. (Pickup cavities, rounding over body edges, etc.) Is there any reason to look at compact routers? I'd agree with the previously linked Porter Cable being a great way to go. The compact routers are nice for small roundovers, but not much else unless you want to go agonizingly slow. I built a couple guitars when I was a teenager with a big Hitachi plunge router and it worked awesome.
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Dec 16, 2014 02:12
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I've used the 6 1/2" LXT version for a couple weeks at work. Not bad, like most battery circular saws it's not exactly spectacular in larger solid wood. Kicks rear end in plywood and doing framing with 2x4's. I really like the Makita stuff, it's largely on par with Milwaukee as the best of the current battery tools as long as you're just after carpentry stuff. I use Milwaukee stuff personally and Makita/Rigid at work, and they're a tossup doing general work. The 7 1/4 Milwaukee Fuel is the loving tits, though. It's as good as a corded saw. CPOOutlets should have reconditioned Makita stuff. e: http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-r...on&prefv1=recon That is really cheap, holy hell.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:01
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I'm about to drop some money on the HF dust collector and I was going to get a ~14 gallon shop vac for the small tools. It's good to know the Ridgid is worth it.
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Jul 6, 2015 01:45
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My plan for a disc sander is a big aluminum offcut disc like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/110859626019?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and then the 2hp harbor freight 1700 rpm motor and a bushing with a fairly wide flange to bolt it to. Nice and easy, but big and cheap. Get everything bolted together and stable, spin it up and true it up with coarse sandpaper on a block and a rest. I plan on building a heavy base out of MDF and keeping it as a fixed 90 degree table. That ebay store has some 18" discs too, but they're thick as hell and it's not worth the potential for either huge gyroscopic problems lifting your entire homemade disc sander off the bench, or paying to have it milled down to a more reasonable 1/2" or so. I'll just deal with the tragedy of having to build a cheap 14" sander. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 01:25
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I've got a couple other projects I have to get to this weekend like putting up OSB sheathing in the shop, painting and building a drat assembly table, but right after that I'll post some pictures of how my disc sander build goes. I've got everything purchased already.
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Jul 16, 2015 01:30
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wormil posted:Anyone want to recommend a corded angle grinder under $100? It's for the usual grinding stuff + metal cutting. Light usage, homeowner/DIY stuff. That 11 amp Dewalt is my favorite 4.5" grinder ever. I'm not a big fan of dewalt, but I've beat the gently caress out of them and never killed one. Bosch are generally well known for being extremely bulletproof, and they're easily the most common on big construction jobsites. I've never used the normal range of Makita grinders, just the ridiculous auto clutch/quick brake/etc version that's expensive as hell and seemed bulky. That said, you really can't go wrong with any of those if it's just normal use. The difference between them is almost entirely ergonomics and brand preference.
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Aug 21, 2015 23:51
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My Makita 5" random orbit has been great and I'd definitely recommend it. My monster Bosch 1250DEVS 6" has been even better, but it's expensive and absolutely ridiculous. Owns like hell, though.
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Sep 28, 2015 03:41
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Zuph posted:One of these things? http://kk.org/cooltools/clamptite/ Even just having good quality tie wire of a few sizes is incredibly helpful. I had to lace a v-belt back together a while back and if I didn't have tie wire, I'd have been hiking a few miles to get back to the truck.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:18
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kmcormick9 posted:Xposting from AI: ~lots~ The Hitachi is actually a real tool, the HF is a pile of hot spicy utter garbage. It's really not worth cheaping out on miter saws, and sliding miter saws are doubly not worth cheaping out on.
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Feb 24, 2016 02:13
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bobua posted:Picked up my saw stop professional with 36inch fence yesterday and none of my friends give a poo poo about tools so I'm excited posting here. Nice. At some point in the next year I want to upgrade/sidegrade to a Sawstop professional from my Grizzly cabinet saw.
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Sep 18, 2017 21:22
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Rescued an old Stanley No. 4 that might have been my great grandfather's from a family river house today. Going to get it cleaned up and sharpened.  you've got to keep the custom knob.E: and yeah, deep rust sucks on a handplane, but after it's cleaned up and lapped flat it's really not a problem. Definitely need to get every bit of rust out of the deeper pockets of pitting after it's flattened or it'll leave rusty streaks behind.
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Sep 27, 2017 00:29
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The most important lesson with an impact driver is that the trigger is not an on-off switch, and sneaking up on "tight enough" is not a matter of on-off-on-off-on-off blips.
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Oct 3, 2017 23:11
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canyoneer posted:After 3 rooms of laminate and trim, my saw blade is getting pretty dull and is burning the MDF trim I'm cutting. I've got another room of laminate and trim to do, then it will probably not be used a bunch. That looks like the carbide is plenty big enough to take a couple sharpenings, but that cost is per-tooth. Higher tooth counts get sort of expensive, and it's not quite as worth it if the blade is inexpensive. That one is sort of in a middle-ground. You might have someone local, but otherwise Ridge Carbide is the best. https://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening-service/ If the blade is particularly dirty/pitchy, it's worth cleaning too. You'd be very surprised how often a blade seems ridiculously dull but doesn't actually need to be sharpened. Soak in Simple Green (or something similar) for 5-10 minutes and scrub it a little with a nylon or brass brush.
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Mar 14, 2018 23:15
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The big danger of polesaws beyond things falling completely vertically onto your head is dropping larger branches that fall tip-down, compress the branches and then spring the butt end into your face. It's a small version of the same reason you don't do tree work from ladders.
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May 10, 2018 00:21
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DreadLlama posted:Can anyone recommend a cordless tool battery franchise which includes both a 7 1/4" circular saw and a random orbital sander? Makita or Milwaukee on the prosumer level, followed by Ridgid. e: V huh, I didn't think Ryobi had a 7 1/4" saw, but they do! Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jun 9, 2018 |
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Jun 9, 2018 18:56
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