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MrPete
May 17, 2007

truncated aardvar posted:

I'm waiting for my 18 year old Makita hammer drill to die, or even to show some sign of underperformance, so I can get a new one with a keyless chuck. It doesn't look promising.

Take the drill to your local small electric motor repair place and get them to put a decent quality keyless chuck on for you. Might cost a bit but the drill will likely live another 20 years anyhow

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MrPete
May 17, 2007

truncated aardvar posted:

Makita UC3520A - 350mm blade, 1800W motor.

Sup fellow Bunnings shopper! I have one of those Makita saws on my list to buy next week. Got half a camphor laurel tree worth of logs to cut up for lathing :D

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Jet Ready Go posted:

Is there any type of bit I should look for specifically? Or would they very obviously say "FOR PLASTICS YOU SISSY" on the front of the package?

Go buy a dremel, just do it you'll thank us later.

Now, for the bits. If you want to cut plastic, get yourself an EZ-Lock mandrel and some plastic cutting wheels. Otherwise get something like the EZ-Lock Mini Cutting Kit which includes wheels for metal.

Also, check out the dremel website, they have a handy section on the sidebar where you select your tool, the action you wish to perfom and the materiel you're working with. It will give you the appropriate bits to use (you sissy).

Did I mention check out widgetsupply.com? No? cos I loving love that place :D

MrPete
May 17, 2007

truncated aardvar posted:

I'm looking at a drill bit sharpener. I'm looking at Drill Doctor - anything else I should consider?

Bought my dad a DD750X, he reckons it's the best thing he's ever used for sharpening drill bits

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Picked myself up a wood miner!

quote:

Aggressive carving tools for use by professionals only. These tools screw directly onto the 10mm threaded shaft of 4" angle grinders. Like the name says, they are more like wood mining machines than carving accessories. Face protection must be worn and these tools should not be used in the vicinity of other persons.

Should be fun :D

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Hypnolobster posted:

Oh my god, I've used those before. They're loving terrifying. Wire wheels on a grinder are pretty grabby and you can smash a finger into something if you're not careful. Carving miners/wood grinders are a hold the grinder against your hip and hold on for dear life sort of situation.

hahah awesome, I'll see if I can get some video of the destruction then!

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Well fellas, the wood miner was a bit of a bust. For all the scary warnings and whatnot it was pretty tame. No worse than freehanding a router in my opinion.



That's a piece of camphor I was using as a test. It took the wood away OK but nothing spectacular. Did work a bit better on a bit of lovely pine from an old pallet.

Anyhoo, time to pony up and just buy the Arbortech wood carver like I wanted to in the first place!

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Slung Blade posted:

Was the grinder itself powerful enough to make it spin at the speed you wanted?

Yeah, grinder was not an issue. I really pushed down hard to try and make it stall but it didn't.

I was just expecting a much more aggressive cut for all the warnings and whatnot.

The Lancelot looks like it might do a better job!

MrPete
May 17, 2007
I think the thing to take away from this clamp discussion is that you can NEVER have too many clamps.

Short ones, fat ones, long ones, quick ones and slow ones.

There will never be one clamp to rule them all, just an army of them coming down braveheart style.

MrPete
May 17, 2007
yeah they really would have been able to put the squeeze on the english!

MrPete
May 17, 2007

The Wormy Guy posted:

On a related note, thoughts and reviews on the Rockwell Jawhorse? Because of the space issue I thought this would be a great "workbench" that I can fold away and put to the side when not in use. It seems pretty versatile in every way.
I have the ancestor to the jawhorse, the triton superjaws. It has been fantasticly useful over the last 10+ years. Can only imagine the jawhorse would be even better. Expecially since I seem to recall something about the original engineers who did the superjaws designed the jawhorse.

http://stusshed.wordpress.com/2009/01/14/and-now-for-something-completely-different-photos-of-the-jawhorse/

MrPete
May 17, 2007

echomadman posted:

Can anyone recommend a Dremel type tool that is not a bucket of poo poo? Gone through a few cheap generic ones and they lasted ok for their ~€20 pricerange but all broke in under a year.
Just recently i treated myself to a genuine Dremel and it loving exploded within a few weeks, not impressed, i could have bought 6 or 7 cheap ones for the same price.

Always been told that if I want to step up from a dremel to a proper pro quality rotary tool I should look at foredom. So I'm passing that bit of advice on to you!

http://www.foredom.net/

MrPete
May 17, 2007

taqueso posted:

We are drilling holes through plastic/thing sheet metal, power isn't a big concern. Can anyone recommend a right-angle adapter with chuck? Most of the ones I've seen are for hex bits or really cheap looking.

Found this tonight while looking for something else, they do exist!

http://www.carbatec.com.au/right-angle-drilling-attachment_c10160

australian website so may not work for you but if one place has them somewhere else will too :D

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Reggie Died posted:

This is a little off topic, but...;

I have a Ryobi mitre saw stand (best stand $75 can buy IMHO), but it's at a job site with my Dewalt chop saw. I went to the Ryobi website to make sure it would work with my new Makita, and ran across this picture.

http://www.ryobitools.com/product_image/image_url/1363/large/A18MS01_4_Final.jpg

That tray idea is brilliant!, but I have no idea how it's attached to the stand. Those tubes are hollow, and the legs wouldn't fold down completely if it was attached permanently, so I doubt it's screwed or glued. Any ideas?

If I was going to make something like that, I'd put a top piece of plywood on and a couple wingnuts through the whole thing to clamp it onto the pipes.

Easy to take it off when no longer needed and it'd still be below the level of whatever you're cutting

MrPete
May 17, 2007
my old man always tells me to turn a fuckup into a feature

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Rd Rash 1000cc posted:

He did wonders with you.

No but really its good to hide mistakes but you will always know its their.

Nope he tells me quite often I'm a fuckup :)

I see imperfections in my work that even after pointing out to other people they don't see. Nature of the beast really.

Now! to swing this talk back to tools, has anyone got a favourite #5 jack plane I should look at buying?

MrPete
May 17, 2007
I think I want to buy one just on the strength of the guy doing the videos. Seldom come across such well done tutorials for products.

Edit: I just found that yes you can buy the parallelogram. Go to the online store, and it's in the spare parts section

MrPete fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Sep 2, 2012

MrPete
May 17, 2007
I bought the bosch earlier in the year, it's a pretty sweet saw. Will dig out the camera tomorrow and get some action video if you like?

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Blistex posted:

No, that's fine.

How are the 45 degree cuts? Actually 45?
Any side-side play?
Anything loosening up? Causing sloppy cuts or wrong angles?

These are pretty much the only things I am worried about. I'm pretty tired of using chop saws that have horrible tolerances and never make the same angle twice.

My saw out of the box is a fraction out of square. Maybe .1 of a degree or so. It is very consistent however, it doesn't change each cut. The manual indicates it should be easy to adjust it all to be square I just haven't done it yet. Have only used it for rough work as yet and the accuracy isn't paramount. Beats the poo poo out of my $100 gmc mitre saw.

The laser line indicator wasn't calibrated to the blade that comes with the saw. Again not a big deal for me, I'll be replacing the blade soon anyhow and will adjust then.

Everything locks in quite well, the stops for angles click in very solidly and I cannot detect any play. Adjusting everything from the front is quite nice as well, makes it easy.

The glide action is silky smooth and feels very robust.

I don't know if it's because the motor is a belt drive but when you pull the trigger the saw does have a tendency to jerk upwards a bit. Not a huge deal once you get used to it but has caught me off guard a couple times.

Not sure I would want to carry it in and out of a truck every day to a jobsite, thing is loving heavy. The gravity rise stand or something like fastcaps best fence would make it a lot easier in that regard.

Dust bag is catching a fair amount but I still have dust all over the shed. Need to upgrade to active collection and see how that goes.

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Speaking of squares, I forgot to show you guys the present I bought myself earlier in the year

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Not sure if they are widely available over in the States but I am loving my new 18v hitachi brushless gear.

Made in Japan and the impact driver is IP56 rated. No complaints here so far!

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Bad Munki posted:

You got a link for that? I've been looking for a small trailer since I'm going to be selling my truck some day. It looks like it has brackets for sidewalls you can drop in?

I read an interesting build thread about these trailers years ago.

Just had a quick google and it's still up.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f104/harbor-freight-folding-trailer-modification-write-up-review-463480/

Guy does a lot of welding and things to make it a much more capable trailer. Might be worth a read at least.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

His Divine Shadow posted:

Has anyone here used a Talmeter? It's a swedish thing and people in swedish forums have been saying good things about it, looks like an interesting take on the tape measure
http://www.hultafors.com/products/about-our-products/tape-measures-with-precision/talmeter/

No but I'd like to try one out. Hope it doesn't suck cos I just spent 37 bucks on a 3 metre tape!

MrPete
May 17, 2007
I've read the argument that a cheap slider is worse than a cheap fixed as the slider just won't be as accurate due to cheaping out on the sliding mechanism.

As an aside, I'd only recommend a 12" saw if it's going to mostly be in one place all the time.

I have the 12" bosch glide saw and while I love it, at close to 40kg it is a massive awkward pain in my arse to move anywhere.

Just something to keep in mind

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Mmm scythe chat!

I am subscribed to this guy on youtube. Every now and again I will put on a video and just relax. Makes me wish I wasn't left handed (apparently left handed scythes are stupid spendy/rare?). Oh and had somewhere that would need mowing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7foFm6jNNE

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Hubis posted:

Barbarians.



An elegant mower, from a more civilized age.

I've been thinking about getting one of these fiskars, do you have any lawn area that isn't all smooth and perfect like in the picture?

How does it handle the poo poo areas?

MrPete
May 17, 2007
I recently added a cordless circular saw to my tool collection for emergency use.

Having to cut up a sheet of ply using a handsaw in the middle of a monster storm like some kind of goddamn savage was really not fun.

Maybe I'll never have to use it but it's there and really didn't cost a lot to buy a bare tool to fit the batteries I already had.

If you see one on sale sometime it wouldn't kill you to have it in the "just in case" pile.

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Obviously the solution is to just buy corded and cordless. Everybody wins.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

rawrr posted:

The Sortimo ones in the video are apparently hard to find retail (and are $80 each),
Holy cow, finally something is cheaper in Australia than over there? Sortimo T-Boxx (the ones that Adam has, there is also the slightly smaller/cheaper I-Boxx) only cost me $60 here!

Anyway, ToolGuyD has a bunch of articles about parts organisers. Seems like it might be worthwhile waiting for an Amazon sale on the Stanley ones.

If anyone does decide to splash out on the T-boxx, you won't regret it. They are so very nice.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Harmburger posted:

I guess I'm looking for a miter saw and didn't know the term. Something to just make accurate cuts without having to own a bigass saw.

Something like a Nobex miter saw might suit then.

You should give us an idea of budget too, otherwise someone (me) will suggest a Jointmaker Pro

MrPete
May 17, 2007
japan makes some cool lightweight tools

http://www.themechanicstoolbox.com/lobster-tools-by-lobtex-um24-6-150mm-adjustable-wrench/

http://www.asahi-tool.co.jp/product/lightool.html

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Regarding PPE, I just picked up a pair of sensgard ear chambers recently. So far I like them! They work a bit better when I'm outside wearing a hat than the big ear defenders I normally use. Added bonus, way less sweaty ears.

Tried some foam earplugs but guaranteed, every loving time I'd put a pair in some assclown would call or drop by wanting to talk to me. Then I'd have to take the foamies out, ask so and so to repeat what they said, deal with their poo poo then go grab another pair and re-insert (because the originals would roll off the clean spot I put them and into the dirt).

MrPete
May 17, 2007

BUGS OF SPRING posted:

Drum Sanders retail for crazy amounts. North of 2k new in Canada.

Being in Canada and wanting a top mount sander have you considered just making a vdrum kit from stockroom supply?

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Ultragonk posted:

UK Goons where are the best places to go to buy tools? I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to DIY and the tools my father have given me were one he took from when he was working on building sites a few decades ago. As a result they're not very good so I was looking to replace them.

Two I know of in the UK are Toolstop and Axminster (mostly because they ship international) but they've been good to deal with.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

OhDearGodNo posted:

For $300 I can buy a new fence with a better saw attached to it.

Since you have an aversion to spending moneys, make your own fence + rail. This guy has a whole series on doing it (he sells them too if you get lazy).

http://vsctools.com/diy-guide-rails/

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Bad Munki posted:

Gentlemen. :tipshat:

http://i.imgur.com/ZmY80xc.jpg

Sunset no longer has any power o'er me. :colbert:

http://i.imgur.com/NNNcSYl.jpg

This is 50% done, but I need to finish more of the ceiling first so I have a place to hang them. Was going to do 4 across each bay, but it lined up nicely at 3 across and I'll be putting lower-hanging lights over any benches along the sides anyhow, so those'll be better served that way.

That looks really nice! It's amazing what a nicely lit work space can do for productivity.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Bad Munki posted:

I'd like to put some better filters on it, though. Those cloth bags are like 6' tall, anyone know of a replacement higher-quality pleated filter rigid cylinder type thing that'd fit the bill?

Most forum posts and stuff I've read about dust collector filters seem to mention these dudes. So get something from them :D

https://wynnenv.com/woodworking-filters/

MrPete
May 17, 2007

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That reminds me -- when I decide I need air filtration in addition to eye/ear protection, I end up wearing three pieces of PPE on my head all at the same time (mask, goggles, over-ear muffs) and it can get kind of unwieldy with all the straps and sometimes the mask causes the goggles to fog up. Anyone have any recommended integrated PPE "headsets" or whatever the term is that do ear/eye/breath protection? It's fine if they protect other stuff too (e.g. if they have a helmet or something) but those are the three I need most frequently.

You can get something like the Trend Airshield Pro which is an on the head helmet that does air filtration and has an impact shield built in. Can be a bit top heavy though, depends on how long you want to wear it at a time.

Rolls Royce option is the 3M Versaflo system. That has a belt pack air filter running up to a helmet. You can get all sorts of different head units, from simple lab sorta ones to full on hard hats with flame retardant shroud. You can add muffs to the helmets, they have a connector just like on hardhats.

It costs a loving packet though so bring your credit card.

MrPete
May 17, 2007
Tape Chat!

Have 3 x 8m lufkin tapes scattered around the shed, they all work really well. Good blade locks and strong return springs.

2 x 5m tapes as well, one is in the car and the other sits in my desk drawer in the house. Amazing how often you need to measure something real quick. The 5m blade locks are pretty useless but the springs are good. The blades being narrower means it's a pain to measure long stuff by yourself but that's not how I use them very often.

I have one fastcap tape and I mostly like it. It's the lay flat model so it's useless for measuring things as it flops all over the place. Great for laying out stuff on a plywood sheet for cutting though. They have a pretty huge range too.

Want to love the Hultafors Talmeter but I just can't. It's a cool concept, having a tape that you can mark circles with plus do pipe diameters. In practice though the thing that sticks out the bottom of the tape and the body makes it impossible to quickly pull out the tape to take a measurment. The blade kinks easily too. Oh and the blade lock is reversed, so you have to hold it down to retract it. Probably ok if you're used to it but it just annoys me.

BMI 429 is a novelty tape, it extends itself out to 2m when you release it. Fun to play with but I've never used it in anger, think it's in the "silly purchases" box with the hultafors one .

Lastly there is the 30m Empire fibreglass tape. It's good for outside stuff. No complaints yet!

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MrPete
May 17, 2007

Hubis posted:

On this, I've seen some woodworking blogs specifically recommend folding rules like this. Assuming you've already got a rigid straightedge for marking and whatnot, is there an obvious advantage/use case for these over a tape measure?
No idea really. I have one of those floating around that my dad gave me. Old school carpenters used them heaps.

I know some models have an extendo bit in the end, so you can take a measurement of the inside of a box or cabinet carcase easily. Maybe it's just personal preference?

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