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kafkasgoldfish posted:Or unless you're putting together Ikea furniture at night in an apartment complex. Apparently somebody has never lived in the 'hood.
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Dec 13, 2013 20:38
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His Divine Shadow posted:The old fashioned models are pretty fast, if not as fast as that one: Ok, but is faster than this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ejWHlPLaE (skip to 1:59 for  )
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Apr 22, 2014 17:40
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Has anyone tried reconditioning old power tool batteries? I think this is a question better fit for the hobby RC thread in AI. I have never heard of restoring batteries, but I have heard of people opening their battery packs and replacing the cells inside. Never heard of that done on a drill before but I cant see why it wouldn't work.
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May 3, 2014 00:03
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I want to start a new hobby of woodworking by building a table/bench, and I want an end vise, something between $150 and $20, most likely $48 unless someone says otherwise. Will I really notice the difference between the three different priced vises? Sure they are slightly different sizes and different openings, but that is a hell of a price difference.
Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Dec 21, 2014 |
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Dec 21, 2014 18:28
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Josh Lyman posted:In terms of pliers, does the essential basic toolbox include needle-nose, linesman, tongue and groove, and monkey? And a vise grip for good measure. Lineman's pliers can't cut up close to something, like I particularly like to use diagonal cutters to snip zip ties off packages (hard on scissors). Tongue and groove or channel lock could replace slip joint, but they are a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive. Actually, I am not really sure what channel locks are good for. I mean I'm sure they are good at grabbing pipe (which I rarely do), but I use slip joint pliers to either pinch items or hold small nuts and bolts, for anything a slip joint can't handle I would prefer a wrench instead of channel locks. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Dec 26, 2014 |
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Dec 26, 2014 13:38
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Are airtools actually useful for woodworking? I'm certain a rattle gun would be useless, I could see using a spray gun for finish and an air nailer might be nice but not used enough to justify purchasing a compressor. I am tempted to get a compressor, but honestly I think the main reason I want one is so that I can air up my tires in the garage instead of driving to the nearby gas station in -20F with high wind to spot either a half dozen cars lined up or discover the air is out of order.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:14
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I pulled the trigger on a Harbor Freight/Central Pneumatic 2HP 8gal compressor today. I strongly considered the 2.5HP 10gal but in store it felt considerably more heavy and my shop will be in the basement and the cars with go at tires are in the garage. I'm sure there other solutions (air tank or smaller garage compressor) but I liked the portability. Will I regret this decision when it comes time hose down a king size headboard with reddish brown poo poo?
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Jan 5, 2015 04:05
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asdf32 posted:Inflator and nail gun in 18V: You're supposed to be helping me feel good about the compressor I just bought.  And neither of those tools can spray finish or dust of tools. Please don't post a cheaper electric tool with these abilities. 
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Jan 5, 2015 04:29
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uwaeve posted:I've been considering a small light-duty compressor (airing things up, blowing dust, etc) without the real consideration for any tools that will be run by it. One of the things putting me off is the accessories/hoses etc. I am sort of envisioning this aspect to be the part where I can avoid the most frustration with some advice. Is there good hose management/quality of life stuff I can buy to accessorize a compressor? Like are there certain hoses, hose reels, regulators, rotary joints, etcetera that are going to reduce the gently caress THIS aspect of using the thing? I'm OK spending a little bit, I just don't want to never bust it out because it's a huge pain in the rear end with kinked hoses, who knows what else. I am curious to know more about the issues you are having. What type of hose did you try that you disliked? All I know so far is according to the cartons at Home Depot, PVC hose is light and resists kinks, while rubber hose does not try to curl up like PVC. So far, I only have one nylon spring style coil up hose from Harbor Freight and I'm sure I will need eventually need a real hose.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:58
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uwaeve posted:I've actually never had/used anything other than a lovely Sears $20 (inflator) job, it's just I envision a compressor and accessories to be one of those things that'll cause disproportionate levels of frustration if I don't get some advice. Maybe just buying the Campbell-Hausfeld MY FIRST COMPRESSOR Accessory Pack is fine, idk. Personally, I consider a compressor to be less confusing. I mean you have plugs/receptacles (Automotive, Industrial or Universal, buy industrial) that are about $3 each at Home Depot, plug male end of hose into compressor, plug male end of tool into hose, flip the on switch (after reading and removing a dozen "ADD OIL BEFORE STARTING" stickers on your new compressor) and adjust the regulator. With cordless Lithium ion batteries are awesome, but you have to either buy the same brand and type of everything for all your tools or keep a big box of chargers and batteries (bad idea). Sure the cordless freedom is cool but for me the process is always grab the drill, setup the ladder and other crap, find out the battery is dead and then get to work an hour later. I don't hate cordless tools (except for NiMH batteries. . .) I just think that an air setup will be about equally as confusing as a cordless setup. And rattle cans are no match for a compressor. I also might be a little biased after buying babies first compressor. PuTTY riot posted:Enjoy the bitterant that will inevitably get onto your fingers/the air and then get into your mouth. Yeah gently caress you canned air! I only huff 100% pure compressor pumped air! Am I doing this right?
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Jan 6, 2015 18:49
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Brought home a Harbor Freight 10" sliding compound miter saw, piece of poo poo is impossible to even install the blade, clearance in the housing is too tight and it rubs everywhere. I read the directions for taking the arbor apart, but the motor shaft is too long causing the blade to bind. I can get the blade in if I disassemble the lift arm inside the blade housing, but then I can not reassemble the arm with the blade in place. I guess time to go donate a loving 20% restocking fee to Harbor Freight tomorrow so that I can go buy a real saw. I am probably going to get a $199 Ryobi 10" slider from Home Depot.
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Jan 11, 2015 02:43
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I will find out in a coue hours. Upon boxing it up, I also noticed the shaft is too short, both flanges without the blade take up the entire shaft, once a blade is between the flanges, the outer flange would be just floating held on only by the nut without the shaft to support it. I knew this thing would be a piece of poo poo, just didn't think they could gently caress up this bad.
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Jan 11, 2015 12:53
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tater_salad posted:Can we put in the op that the hf slider is a huge piece of poo poo. Even that would not do enough justice to convey how the drat thing is impossible to even mount the blade. I honestly believe they simply put a completely wrong motor shaft on this since it is impossible to use it. The shaft both sticks out too far, and is too short to safely mount a blade, so someone hosed up when trying to copy the blue prints. I read reviews about HF, I read all about the 10" and 12" slider, most reviews I read actually said the 12" was pretty good. I am a little tempted to just exchange it for another one since that would probably last me either 6 months or a lifetime and either save me $200, or be an $88 expense. However, considering the quality control is low enough they could let this piece of poo poo slip by. . . I am just gonna go get a real saw. This also makes he have second thoughts about my compressor.  At least the compressor doesn't involve a 10" metal disc spinning right in front of my chest.Doctor Zero posted:I have the 12" and it's just fine. I wish I could have received a just fine saw, as is I simply don't feel safe buying an HF saw anymore. I fully believe a $200 Ryobi will last me a lifetime without killing me.
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Jan 11, 2015 15:59
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My logic is a 10" can cut a 4x4 or a 2x4 but not a 6x6 or 2x6. A 12" can cut a 2x6, but not a 6x6 (maybe?) or 2x8. . . a 10" slider however can cut a 2x10 or almost a 2x12. So the 10" slider can cut more dimensional lumber than a 12" non slider. The 12" fixed gains an extra inch in thickness but looses a lot in terms of width.
Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 19:34
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What corded drill should I buy for woodworking that is less than $100? I don't want to have to charge batteries, I'm going to use it at home all the time where I will have an outlet or extension cord nearby, I have a cordless "drill" (7.2v screw driver) for just in case stuff, and I think I can get a more powerful and cheaper drill if I go corded. I think a $59 DeWalt 8amp is my best bet but I don't want a repeat of the Harbor Freight miter saw incident. . .
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Jan 12, 2015 04:30
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Doctor Zero posted:I wonder if they will waive the fee if it's so obviously defective. Fee was waived no questions asked, it took less than 5 minutes and everything about the process was just very mundane as if they had done this hundreds of times before. The Ryobi is in my basement.
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Jan 12, 2015 05:30
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Bad Munki posted:Your first clue should have been the 78 layers of packing tape re-sealing the box. Actually my first clue was the scrap of white paper taped to the box. Either someone had a bad Christmas, or it could be related to how the clerk had to tell their helper to stop taping on defective tags. 
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Jan 12, 2015 14:04
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Picked up the DWD110K at Home Depot, it still shot screws like crap at first and ate 2 harbor freight Phillips head bits. Eventually I decided to try switching from a 1/8" pilot hole to a 9/64" and the difference is night and day.  For reference, I'm putting 3" drywall screws into 2x4s to finally assemble a workbench (all the lumber is there and one set of legs is complete!) Is there an easy to read chart for pilot hole size? I don't believe my box of screws is labeled with the diameter of the screws only the length. I tried to guess by holding up the bit in front of the screw and you can tell how that worked out. . .canyoneer posted:I have this one. For reference, the difference is actually that the DWD112 has an all-metal chuck, the DWD110 also has the spirit level on back. I honestly don't know what they mean by all metal chuck, especially since the outside of the chuck looks like plastic in the amazon pictures. I am assuming they might mean all metal gears? Also, I have learned that the ratcheting chuck on the DWD110 does not allow me to get as tight a grip as I would like on a screw bit, when I placed the naked Philips driver in the chuck and tightened it down, the bit immediately slid all the way back in the chuck when I applied pressure. I quickly rectified this by using a quick change adapter but I was still a little surprised. . . With my cordless drill without a ratcheting chuck I am able to tighten it down by hand enough to prevent a bit from sliding back in the chuck.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:45
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canyoneer posted:Speaking of quick change adapters, I have a huge tray o' bits from Ryobi, with quick change adapter included for all of the screw heads, hex bits, ratchets, etc. Cool! Hex shank drill bits? My local home depot had those and others on the shelf.
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Jan 13, 2015 00:18
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thespaceinvader posted:My inclination would be to invest in a decent impact driver. It's even quicker to not do bit changes at all, than it is to do quick changes, and impact drivers are better at screwdriving than drills. Can you recommend a good corded impact driver for under $100? I still am not ready to transition to cordless, and all I see for corded are well over $100 with the exception of a Porter Cable, Craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I am tempted to get the Harbor Freight because on paper the specs are better, it's cheaper, and they can't gently caress up something as simple as a drill, right??  Besides, I am already familiar with their returns process.
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Jan 13, 2015 12:48
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So far in my search I think I have decided I can go with a Porter Cable 1/4" corded impact driver, a lot of reviews say "just got it, it's incredible" but a lot of reviews say the motor starts smoking sometime between one hour to 91-days after opening the box. . . The harbor freight option is a $45 1/2" corded electric impact, but I'm pretty sure that if it doesn't set my house on fire it will be great for removing lug-nuts and snapping the heads off every screw I try. The $129 M12 looks like probably the best impact driver. . . But for $139 I can get an 18V Ridgid X4. I don't know if Ridgid's quality is acceptable (it's probbably acceptable for my usage) but it is 18V vs 12V, and the home depot specs list the M1s at 1000ft-lbs and the Ridgid at 1750ft-lbs. But I'm also very tempted to go with a Black & Decker solution (stop laughing. . .) I know it would be lower quality, but I already own a Black & Decker 20V Lithium-ion product- a weed eater. I have a "20V Max Lithium 4.0AH 2x" battery, and a charger, and I could cheap out and buy a bare impact driver. . . What are the odds my batter would be compatiable with a DeWalt branded impact driver? I am extremely tempted to get two batteries, two drills, $105, not a harbor freight brand. . .
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Jan 13, 2015 19:35
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Don't buy brands that have stipulations to tell people to "stop laughing" I believe Black & Decker is a capable brand for weekend warriors, I'm sure a contractor could destroy B&Ds best drill in a day or less, but I know full well I'm not a contractor. I add the stipulation purely because the original recommendation was for a Milwaukee (high end) and B&D is a known low-end weekend warrior brand, which might suite me better than a high end Milwaukee. mAlfunkti0n posted:The gist of it is, buy it right the first time so you don't need to buy it again and again down the road. If anything, I think the batteries will "expire" long before I wear out any other part of the tools. I believe with any brand of cordless drill I would need to buy again sometime down the road. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 19:53
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mAlfunkti0n posted:It really all depends on what you need the tool to do. A weekend warrior could destroy tools easily if the application requires something more powerful. Match the tool to the use and you will be happy. Batteries are a consumable and should outlast the tool if things are built properly. Yeah, I only want to drive screws into wood. . . I really don't care for working on cars ($$$, greasy, too cold/hot, etc) so I will probably never need to combat rusted on bolts or other stuff requiring lots of torque. But I am also up for considering DeWalt 20V drills if my B&D brand battery and charger are compatible.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:05
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I think I have decided that I need to return the corded DeWalt drill, and get an M12 combo kit, I think this is the best one: $160 3/8" drill, 1/4" impact, 1 free XC battery I've been trying to convince myself to maybe upgrade to the M12 fuel kit, but that would be $289. . . If anything, I think the best next step up would be an M18 non fuel kit for $199 since I think it would have similar power to the M12 fuel. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 04:06
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Doctor Zero posted:I don't think the Dewalt will be able to use the B&D battery. They are close but the manufacturers change the bits around it to make it only fit their brand. This really pisses me off. I later found out on an Amazon page for one of the batteries where the seller asked if a B&D lawn tool battery would fit a In the end, I decided to get a $169 M12 fuel impact driver kit with the driver, 2 batteries, and a charger. Then I found the M12 non-fuel drill/driver on Amazon for $40, so for $200 I'm getting the larger fuel batteries, a higher power brush less impact driver, and a compatible drill. I can sell the drill later if I really want to upgrade it to a fuel drill, but I doubt that will be necessary. Total with shipping and tax everything is about $220 vs $289 + tax for a fuel kit from home depot. What did surprise me was how Amazon wanted about $200 for the impact driver kit and HD was cheaper. I also looked at a couple other suppliers, they were all the same or higher - sears was the worst at $256 for the fuel impact driver kit  I guess they must have to mark it up to make the Crapsman line look better.
Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 19:04
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I did consider that saw when I got my miter saw, it is $199 US and does not come with a free stand. The Ryobi I got from Home Depot was $199, so since they were the same price and value, I assumed it might be higher quality to go Ryobi instead of Kobalt mainly because Ryobi is not a store brand. Looking at them closer, I see a few differences - The Kobalt has a handle at the back of the slider, the Ryobi does not (I want that feature!), the Kobalt has more substantial table extensions, the Ryobi ones are just loops of metal bar. From the picture, it also looks like you can lock the blade guard open on the Kobalt, I'm not sure if that is a useful feature but it might be nice to have. Also the slider mechanism on the Kobalt is either really complex or enclose, I am not sure if I like it or not. The biggest difference I can find between the Kobalt and Ryobi is weight, 36lbs for Kobalt, 44lbs for Ryobi. Lots more features and less weight for the same price as Ryobi could mean better engineering/value or lower quality, I will let you decide. . . But if Lowes had that same deal in the US I would do it. Actually, what I would really do is the table/miter saw because how often can you say that your BOGO was a miter saw?? And a 7 1/4" miter is probably useful enough, if it wasn't free I would still prefer at least a 10". They are sure proud of Kobalt wrenches, I can buy a 22 piece metric/sae set from Harbor Freight for $20 (they can't screw up wrenches, right?) I went with a $12 Crescent 9-piece set from Menards.
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Jan 16, 2015 19:59
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0gSJa3L_7c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HsT7P6ZtGw What happened to this tool? I cant find a place to get these anywhere. I don't need one, but I am just surprised they seem to have disappeared.
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Jan 17, 2015 16:28
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CharlieWhiskey posted:When I have too many things for a peanut butter jar and not enough for a tool box, I get out the needle and thread and an old pair of jeans and DIY one of these: http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/20-Pocket-Heavy-Denim-Roll-With-Pouch/productinfo/130-1120/ Pics please? That sounds like an easy and cool project but I kinda suck at sewing by hand. In related news, the HF air tool starter kit I bought is everything you would expect from Harbor Freight, the inflator has to be finessed at all odd angles until you find the sweet spot that puts air into the tire, and the top of the tire gauge snapped off by the time I got to the second wheel.  I pressed the head back on and I think it worked just fine but still. . .
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Jan 18, 2015 00:26
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thespaceinvader posted:Impact drivers? Nothing's happened to them to the best of my knowledge... http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DC825B-18-Volt-Cordless/dp/B002RT7K4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421538006&sr=8-1&keywords=impact+driver for instance. Yes I have an impact driver coming in the mail, but what about the impact adapter to turn a regular drill into an impact wrench? I have no need for one, but the idea still seems interesting.
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Jan 18, 2015 12:40
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The Bosch kit is a brushed drill, which is not particularly bad but overall everything is not as good a brushless drill. The M12 Fuel line is brushless, the motors are more efficient meaning more power and longer running time. You can get a Milwaukee M12 non-fuel kit for about $210 CDN. I don't know the prices of Bosch or Milwaukee brushless combo kits, but you can expect to pay significantly more. I don't have any experience with Bosch tools, but from my research (highly scientific youtube videos ) I just felt that Milwaukee's features suited my needs better. A cordless drill/driver will not replace your corded hammer drill. If you think it will replace your Magnum, just lug the Magnum up to the top of a ladder a couple times after untangling the extension cord. Because of the price/power difference, I ultimately decided to go with a brushless impact driver and a brushed drill/driver. I don't want to pound into masonry very often so I doubt I will be missing out on not having a hammer drill. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 19, 2015 03:13
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E-Money posted:I'm getting married at the end of March and have been thinking about registering for some new/upgraded tools. Unless your already invested in M12 batteries and such, ha e you considered the Mr screwdriver? Otherwise, register for a drill and impact driver combo.
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Jan 19, 2015 19:29
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Surprised there is not a marriage between tools and kitchen appliances. A mixer that is powered by a milwaukee drill sounds great. 
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Jan 20, 2015 04:12
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Clearly the problem is you don't have any M12 gear for when you need a smaller, lighter, more compact equipment, you also lack M28 gear. And where is your electric caulk gun and heated jacket???
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Jan 21, 2015 19:01
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A relative gave me a 12" variable speed bandsaw, an Alltrade MB8 1996-B3. This machine was manufactured in 1984 (discontinued in 1986) and is proving quite difficult to find information for. I am 99% sure this thing is scrap metal, I plugged it in, pulled the on switch and it ran at what sounded like 10,000RPM for a couple seconds before I shut it off. Since then, I have fondeled the switch as much as possible but it won't turn on again. The blade is broken, there is a sticker on top that says it needs a 59 1/4" blade, Google suggests that this machine can take blades ranging from 59" to 59 1/2", is this a safe assumption? I don't know how to judge the condition of the drive belt, and I doubt it is routed right. The belt is about 1cm wide and about as thick as a playing card. The belt is flexible and does not appear to be cracked, although one edge is a little frayed. When spinning the pulleys by hand, the rear pulley spins fine, the drive pulley spun fine with the belt off, the top pulley also spun freely but sounded like it was rubbing on something. I also suspect the blade guides were fiddeled with as they appear to have a gap about 2-3mm which is significantly larger than the thickness of the broken blade that it came with. Assuming I can make this turn on again, I could pick up a blade for about $10 and run it until it dies (be that 2 seconds or 2 years). Otherwise, I could get the same $129 bandsaw from Home Depot/Ryobi, Menards/Performax, Sears/Craftsman (or pay $20 extra for a Powertec sticker), or
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Jan 28, 2015 18:12
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asdf32 posted:Ryobi just switched the bandsaw to green FYI. At least green will match my Ryobi miter saw, but I really liked that deep blue. As for electric yard tools, when it came time for me to get a
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Jan 29, 2015 00:05
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Sointenly posted:Anyone have one of these? Festool just wants to get their name in your head by putting the cheapest ($300) power tool they make on TV.
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Feb 2, 2015 19:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For my workshop project, I need to get a nailer and air compressor. Any recommendations? The nailer has to be able to do 16d common nails (3.5" long, .162" thick) for the framing work and 8d commons (2.5" long, .131" thick) for the plywood. I have zero experience with nailers and compressors, and there's a billion different modes/options for these things. I'd prefer safety and control over ease-of-use, so e.g. I'd be a bit worried about using a bump nailer. I went with a Harbor Freight 8gal compressor and it works pretty great. Haven't owned it very long, but Google reviews all said HF compressors are safe. I could have got a Husky for not much more but already have the HF unit. For a nail gun, I managed to find an 18ga Bostitch brad nailer at a pawn shop for $30. 18ga is not big enough for what you need but I did see tons of nailers of all sizes at my local pawn shops. I like to buy cheap first and it either lives on forever in misery or it dies and I know what tools to really spend monemoney on.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:46
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You say its the smallest 240V but mine is 120v, where are you from? Sucks about the first one, lemons happen, but sanding and painting a car sounds like too big a project for an 8 gallon. The tag on mine said it would only be good for occasional spraying. I did get a 1 year warranty on mine, I will be happy even if it dies right after the warranty ends.
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Feb 6, 2015 03:57
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uwaeve posted:Grabbed one for my wife and she lives in it. You say your only heats the upper body, is it one of the newer models with the hand warmer? The hand warmer is down near the waist so I assume it would heat your lower body too. I cant justify spending that much on a Milwaukee jacket (but I would love a plain hoodie with the logo. . .) mainly because it is simply not cold enough here and I don't want to use my batteries for a jacket.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:10
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I invested in a Milwaukee 6390-20 circular saw, and I think I want a rip fence or a rip guide. I see there are two options, the rip fence is extremely straight forward and easy to tell how it operates. The rip guide however is a little more intriguing, I guess it is just different. It is hinged, but I am a little confused about why there an extra bar sticking out on right side of the hinge, or why is the hinge a u shape with a hole at the bottom? Is there something more that can or needs to be attached to the rip guide? I am considering ordering both a rip fence and rip guide simply because they are $7 each and might as well just pay shipping once so I can find out which one I like. I doubt I want the rip guide, but is there anything (besides folding out of the way) it can do that the rip fence can not do?
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Feb 10, 2015 21:29
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