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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
It doesn't hurt anything to leave it pressurized, but turn it off so if there is a leak it won't run all night.

And remember to drain the moisture from the tank on a regular basis.

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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Anubis posted:

I was always told that you don't want to leave air in there overnight, ever. Especially if it's going to get cold where you store your tank. Rust on the inside can lead to a pretty dangerous situation.

Most of the moisture in the air comes out after you pump it up to 125+psi and let it cool back to ambient. Any condensation from a drop in temperature would happen no matter the tank pressure. Refilling the tank from empty and letting the air cool would cause far more condensation than any temperature change.

You want to always keep at least a tiny bit of pressure in a tank to keep all the valves sealed tight to keep dust and insects out. Some valve assemblies can also corrode if their mating surfaces are left open to the air, causing them to leak.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Too slow and too much pressure breaks drills, too fast dulls drills and heat treats parts. A quick formula for proper speed is 200/drill diameter.

And yes, lots and lots of cutting fluid. I really like this stuff for drilling thinner material. It's a bit sticky, so more of it ends up on the hole and less dripping on the floor.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
What's second best to getting new tools?

New place to put tools.


11 drawer craftsman. Unfortunately no ball bearing slides, but it's otherwise the same as their current professional line. Bigger casters, thicker metal, box frame construction, etc.

I've got 18 drawers to stuff tools now. Oh god what should I buy to fill it? :allears:

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

grover posted:

What's the technique for sharpening bits on a grinder? Do you need a jig to get the right angle, or is eyeballing it good enough? All my most-used bits are horribly dulled...

This guy has a ton of really good videos.

The Use & Care of Drill Bits part 3. He doesn't get into the actual sharpening until about 6 minutes in, the rest is theory.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqn2VPGYA9c

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I'd use an angle grinder with a plywood blade. Something like McMaster Carr #4079A16

A normal cutoff disc might work too, but might get loaded and slow down after a while. They're dirt cheap though.

Reciprocating saws are more work to start, and towards the end of the cut they'll want to grab and vibrate.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Now that I'm wearing them all day every day, my 5 year old sears safety glasses just aren't cutting it. Anyone have any recommendations?

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I'll have to swing by grainger at some point I guess.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Nerobro posted:

I wear paintball goggles. Little or not fog. They'll stop some serious flying poo poo. And they can be had cheap.

Far too heavy and cumbersome to wear for 10 hours on end.

I wound up with these. The frame is a bit thinner than the picture shows and it's clear instead of black, they're very light, and I haven't had any issues with fogging yet.

The 3m 7500 series is the best respirator I've ever worn.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
+/-.003" isn't that bad for something like that.

You'd be amazed at how strong set screws can be.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

TopherCStone posted:

I want a rotary tool to help make scales for straight razors. I don't however, want to spend as much as a Dremel costs. Are there any decent lower-cost options?

I have a black and decker that i bought expecting to get a couple uses out of, ten years ago. Only three speeds instead of the variable control and i think some of the dremels turn faster, but it takes the same size tools and works like a champ.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Don't waste your money on gimmicks. Pick up a couple of huot tap and drill indexes and fill as needed. They're under $15 on Amazon, last forever, keep your poo poo from getting chipped up in your toolbox, and make everything neat and organized.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
You can buy used machinist squares for like $20 on ebay.

I bought an irwin square at home depot for like $8 and it's square to within .005" over 6". More accurate than anything you'll be cutting by hand.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

dwoloz posted:

Any recommendations for safety goggles/glasses that don't easily get scratched up? Im guilty of often not wearing them because the two pairs I have reduce my vision considerably because of how scratched up they are.

The biggest thing is to replacement them more frequently. Any plastic lens is going to get scratched up over time.

These are cheap and decent. Not much optical distortion and they fit nice and close.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
You can buy 9"x12" granite surface plates for cheap on ebay. Guaranteed flat to a couple tenths. Perfect for lapping.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I've had one of these for years. Loads of torque at low rpm, perfect for running larger spade drills and hole saws and stuff. The second handle is easy to adjust to whatever angle you need. Don't even think about using it one handed. It's heavy as poo poo and if it grabs it'll gently caress your wrist up.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

TheBigBad posted:

Xposting from the quick fix thread:

Any machinists lurking about?

Is this a surface gauge? Anyone recognize it or know where to find one similar? The surface gauges I've been able to source out have been more puny.



Looks like a height gauge.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
You can buy small surface plates on ebay for like $60 shipped. Guaranteed flatter than a piece of counter top, but probably overkill.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Yes, but in his defense, most of those are pretty terrible.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Green wheels are silicon carbide. They're more abrasive, but a lot softer so they wear out really fast. They are good for nonferrous metals as long as you go light and don't load them up. Harder steels tend to shred them and they don't cut as well.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
We leave them out as bait so the uninitiated don't go looking for the diamond wheels. :ssh:

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Not a big deal, as long as you drain the water out of the bottom of the tank before you store it.

And it's basically a bomb so don't run it over with your car.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Yes, but it'll probably cost more than a new cheap compressor. You can also get them inspected for relatively cheap($150-200) by an air compressor maintenance place.

Or make a fixed mounting plate for your pump and motor and use several of those $40 portable tanks from HF.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I mean buy the cheapest compressor you can find and put your old motor and pump on it.

e: This is the one and only reason to buy an oil-less compressor. If Harbor freight tanks have an ASME cert then that works too.

oxbrain fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Oct 30, 2014

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

melon cat posted:

I understand. But how big of a compressor are we talking? Would that MAC700 I mentioned earlier be sufficient? The only mobility I'd ever need is to occasionally haul the unit into our house to use the brad nailer during renovations, and that wouldn't be too often.

Impact wrenches use a ton of air at full load, like several gallons per second. If you need to loosen stuck bolts it just won't work. At minimum load they take a lot less, but you're still looking at a couple seconds before the tank pressure drops too much. Even a 60 gallon tank will be cycling a lot with any serious use. I don't recommend pneumatic tools for home shop use. The cost of a big enough compressor is more than the cost of a whole set of electric tools. If you're just changing tires and loosening mildly stuck bolts you'll be a lot happier with an electric wrench.

That makita will work great for nailing and filling tires. It's more expensive than a cheap pancake compressor, but it should be a lot quieter and last longer.

dinozaur posted:

No. A standard impact wrench uses 5cfm @ 90psi.

5cfm is the minimum to spin it. To hit the advertised torque ratings it'll be more like 20-25.

oxbrain fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Nov 2, 2014

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Anubis posted:

Or how about a 3rd option. What do we do when we don't have a strong enough tool? Buy more tools! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFRYlwnuNZ8 Fair warning, I've never done this and this guy might be a idiot or maybe a genius wizard because this looks brilliant but for all I know it could fail horribly. I might try it to set up a better wood finishing setup.

Holy crap that guy is trying to make it sound like he's doing something super complex and ingenious. You hook two compressors up to the same line with $5 worth of fittings. You don't need special hoses or special parts, just basic air line fittings. They don't have to be the same size or power, just set the regulators to roughly the same output pressure and you're good to go. Unless you're modifying the compressors there's nothing dangerous about it. It's the same principal as basically every large industrial air setup.

oxbrain fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Nov 3, 2014

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Fiskars makes great axes. Just be sure you keep it sharp, it doesn't have the weight to power through otherwise.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

Gounads posted:

Really? The one I posted has a 5lb head. My current axe is 3.something ... 5 seemed heavy

Wow, those feel way lighter than the other axes I've used. I'm too used to mauls. gently caress doug fir forever.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
They make a 20lb version. :hawaaaafap:
http://www.amazon.com/Wilton-22036-36-Inch-Sledge-Hammer/dp/B006MGMNTW

http://youtu.be/zadub8fOZj8

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Drain the water out of the tank, but leave some air pressure. You want the valves closed so the seats don't rust or get crap in them. Otherwise, don't worry about maintenance. The pump will give out before anything else.

Brand doesn't really matter for blowguns and accessories.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
It doesn't really matter, just some positive pressure. As long as it still hisses when you press the valve. Say 10-40 psi.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

snickles posted:

I got a bostitch 6 gallon compressor from my father in law for Christmas and when he was demonstrating it to me, he showed me his air gun. After returning home I bought a Kobalt branded air gun and it seems, well, leaky. The air pressure at the tip seems much lower than the one he had and a significant amount of air is lost via lateral holes on the air gun. Is this normal and I'm just misremembering the power of my f-i-l's air gun?

Those holes are supposed to be a safety feature. I'm not sure what they protect against, but they're OSHA standard.

I can't stand that type of air gun. There is no control over pressure and they're uncomfortable to use. Get something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO6E1E

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
A machinist or engineer ruler would also work down to mm.

http://www.amazon.com/English-Metric-high-contrast-machinist-markings/dp/B00CD9UC90

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
If you're making a raised floor why not run ducting and use forced air heat?

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
5086 is some gummy, nasty poo poo. I can't see getting a good result cutting it by hand. On a cnc router, possibly. Speeds and feeds are pretty important and you may need oil to keep it from sticking to the cutter. You want a high positive rake, insanely sharp tool and take shallow side cuts. Rough everything as close as possible before finishing because it has a lot of internal stress from the work hardening. If it's annealed, just kill yourself now.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
I've got a set of 3m peltor x series that are rated at 30. You can improve on that by wearing earplugs underneath if you want.

Osha says get down to 70-85db and you're good.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.

The Wolfen posted:

I don't often have much to add, but I have a pair of active noise reduction 'muffs as well and I love them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_i=desktop

That's the pair I have.

These aren't active, they just disable the microphones when the outside volume gets too loud.

However, you can glue one of these on the side and listen to music.
http://www.amazon.com/Okra-Portable-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B00N9HDQKW

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Are there any cheap dremel-like tools that aren't going to poo poo out under light duty? Is the $30 harbor freight going to leave me crying?

I've been beating the poo poo out of my black and decker rotary tool for over a decade and it works just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
Make one of these.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c--5c3Egv4E

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
If you want digital calipers that will last and be accurate, get mitutoyo. There is no competition that comes close.

If you don't want to spend the money, go on ebay and get an old set of vernier calipers. They're just as accurate and way tougher than anything with gears or electronics.

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oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.
That looks like a broach. Is the hex a standard wrench size?

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