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Corvettes seems to always be the worst in my region. In January one of them emptied their entire coolant supply on the track twice thanks to lovely hose clamps, and in February a different one kept going at the finish too hot (was designed to be slow), and punted the timing equipment a good hundred feet on the third run.
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Mar 13, 2011 08:29
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leica posted:Like I said, run it on a course and see how much better (worse) you do than with power steering. Besides, I drive a FWD econobox, not a Miata. I find manual steering to be better than power steering in autocross in regards to feeling and response of the vehicle, and if you go fast enough you'll hardly know the difference (adrenaline might help with this). A proper alignment doesn't hurt either.
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Mar 15, 2011 00:42
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A warning as summer approaches: drink lots of water and try to stay in the shade when possible. We had someone faint yesterday in grid due to heat exhaustion
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May 8, 2011 21:43
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I'm getting bumped to STR next year and have to compete against S2000s, which have 100 more hp for about the same weight at my RX-7. Any clues on how to remain competitive?
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Oct 22, 2011 00:09
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CSP isn't really active in my division, and I'd rather not spend 8 times as much on tires per season, especially if I'm just going to win by default.
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Oct 22, 2011 00:39
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e.pie posted:Those autocrosses are one of the biggest things I miss since I've moved to Colorado. They were a great way to get some cheap seat time. rmsolo.org From the look of the video, ppir has better nuances
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Nov 23, 2011 07:14
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e.pie posted:Are you in CO? I've been wanting to meet some car people here. I'm in Boulder. There are a few north of Denver, quite a few in Denver, and tons in the Springs
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Nov 23, 2011 08:39
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e.pie posted:Never heard of that. Sounds poo poo tons better than the convoluted SCCA classing system. Eh, ran something similar in Wisconsin. Anything that would bump you up a class in SCCA usually carries enough points to bump you up in the points system.I've found neither system is really better or worse, just different ways of accomplishing the same thing.
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Nov 23, 2011 23:04
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Anyone else notice the safety issues like course workers with backs to cars and the timing van directly in the path of finishing cars? I'm really not surprised this happened after seeing those.
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Nov 24, 2011 22:55
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mlmp08 posted:As has been said, walking the track helps. Eh, even when I watch videos of tracks I've run, I find it hard to follow. Your eyes and swiveling head can see a lot more than some fixed camera. Ever since I started running blind (no course walks, no time as I am chief of workers and by the time all the clusterfucks are sorted out the cars are about to start running) I've figured out that looking ahead, which is hard to do from a camera view, really helps in sorting out what is what.
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Jan 12, 2012 21:56
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The Locator posted:Congratulations. Just remember to say I'm sorry a lot and acknowledge that everything is your fault (even though none of it is) 
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Jan 17, 2012 02:48
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Podothehobbit posted:So here's an odd question. I posted it on our local forum board but still have not heard anything official from the local safety stewards. A few weeks ago I suffered a small fracture in my right ankle and had to get a low leg cast to immobilize it. This has not affected my ability to operate the clutch/brake/gas on my car but I was honestly curious if there was a rule/restriction out there in SCCA land that did not allow drivers to participate with a cast at all. As it is right now I currently have a cast boot that covers the entire foot as well as being able to bear my entire weight on the foot in question. If you want something almost official, try posting here: http://www.sccaforums.com/forums
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Feb 22, 2012 08:04
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A vid from Saturday's event shows a few inches in some key places can mean a half second difference http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zltzx1Mp_1c&feature=youtu.be
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Mar 26, 2012 05:14
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You should have gotten RS3s
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Apr 6, 2012 22:46
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whiskas posted:RS3s don't heat up nearly as quick. Star Specs are the way to go. Not heating up as quick hasn't been a real problem in Colorado, even with our winter events. When the Star Specs overheat and require more than 5 minutes to cool down however, that can be a major issue. Star Specs are ok tires. Certainly not bad if you are looking to have fun or only be locally competitive.
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Apr 9, 2012 20:35
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peepsalot posted:I'm a terrible environment hating criminal with no cats on my car. Does this make me ineligible for pretty much anything but some super mega unlimited class(or any class?). I've never autocrossed, but I vaguely remember reading over a rulebook that seemed to require cats for pretty much every class. How big of a problem is this. Kicks you up to Street Prepared
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Apr 24, 2012 06:10
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Back to actual autocross (because there is a separate thread for the FRS/BRZ, with like all the answers and more to the crap in this thread) one of the top drivers in our region put together a coaching video from his various runs at Sunday's event. A bunch of good stuff in it, and not a half bad view (a lot better than some youtube videos I've seen). Be sure to have sound on, because he actually talks about what is going on in the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_woZLAcR5aI&feature=youtu.be
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May 1, 2012 17:39
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That stopbox looks terrible, and dangerous. If you brakes failed before the turn, you'd have about 30 feet until you hit what look to be spectators. We just had a huge thing in our region about making stops that are straight because when you have a sharp turn before the stop, people were going at, and often above their limits to get that last hundredth of a second off of their time and ended up punting two of our timing lights a good 40 feet.
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May 9, 2012 05:04
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Muffinpox posted:Speaking of which I've been waiting to order new tires since the ambient temp keeps dipping below 40. Now I'm debating whether to buy RS3/DSS for daily driven tires that I'll use at auto-x for my AP1 S2000. Has anyone tried these back to back? I'm leaning with DSS since I'm mainly concerned about wet performance, but from what I've seen the RS3s aren't as good in the rain but are heads an shoulders above most street tires for wet grip anyways. Also the AP2 sizes are in stock for RS3s since not many cars use them. Star Specs will handle the cold better
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May 11, 2012 00:34
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Sockington posted:The wife's Mazda5? Just don't tell the wife
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May 16, 2012 20:30
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ExecuDork posted:Also, tires. My current tires are all-seasons apparently designed for endurance on long smooth highways, hence they have no grip and I'm probably melting them all over the parking lot. When they inevitably fail, I'll be looking for something that I suspect might be impossible. Star spec or S.Drive.
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May 30, 2012 04:52
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S.Drives are a good balance, but don't excel in any one particular area, which sort of fits the bill, since each ExecuDork wants balance between many different conflicting areas. I'd recommend Falken 512s, except they tend to get chewed up in Autox
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May 30, 2012 21:51
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Muffinpox posted:What about Hankook V12 Ventus? I've only seen one car with them but they were faster than my S.drives in the wet and also felt like they had better handling characteristics. Never tried em, nor do I know of anyone who has. Sorry
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May 30, 2012 22:54
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The Locator posted:Khumo V710's. The best all weather tires.* A couple ST* guys here in Colorado run Star Specs year round, but if v710s are anything like Hoosier A6s, standing water will kill you.
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May 31, 2012 04:54
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kimbo305 posted:Is there a page listing SSF (as it seems to abbreviate when I google) for most cars? Not that I've seen. The most comprehensive source is NHSTA, and they've moved away from straight SSF numbers Crustashio posted:Canada. We switched to the scca rulebook here last year but I don't think all of the organizing clubs are really well versed in it yet. Yesterday they were telling us we can blow the rear stop box coned as those aren't a time penalty, but I always though overshooting the box was a DNF. Any cone anywhere (hell even in grid) is a penalty. Going out of the stop box and not reentering where you left is a DNF, although most corner captains I know won't call it in because the 7+ cone penalty you got in the process will already kill the run.
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Jun 4, 2012 17:30
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kimbo305 posted:Our regional rallycross uses a hydraulic tube that you lay over the finish, like the ones the DOT uses to measure traffic. Much less finicky than lights when you're slinging rocks and dirt up. Aren't more autox orgs using this as well? good lights are not bad, and don't get hosed up when a car goes through the finish sideways
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Jun 6, 2012 17:08
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I got my SA2010 (HJC AR-10 2) from soloracer.com
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Aug 8, 2012 00:22
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the poi posted:Been looking at the same one. You like it? Mostly, just a minor nitpick. I think I have a slightly odd shaped head because if it isn't sitting just right the "chin" part of the helmet is right next to my chin and can interfere with talking. Unfortunately for me, its one of the best fitting helmets I've tried, so I deal with it. I just have to shuffle it a bit until it fits right. I wouldn't worry about loving up much. Worst thing I've ever seen happen was the owner of an Audi S4 accidentally shifted into reverse instead of first at the start, and ended up launching in the wrong direction. He caught the mistake in time and just rubbed bumpers, but the chief of safety still had to write an incident report. Don't expect to win anything, but do expect to have tons of fun.
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Aug 8, 2012 04:14
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The Locator posted:ProSolo is completely different. It is run with two cars on a Christmas-tree drag race start on mirror image courses, with competitors doing multiple runs on both sides in fairly quick succession, and your best time on each side counting. Unlike regular autocross, your time starts when the light goes green, so reaction time and launch are a big factor. Solo 1 was basically time trials, and as far as I know, they still call it time trials in the Club division
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Aug 9, 2012 18:49
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Muffinpox posted:Nice, I need to relearn my downshifting technique, I like to use the side of my foot and have problems missing the gas if I downshift during cornering. Obvious solution is don't downshift while cornering but sometimes u need to drift bro. You might want to look at how you attack slaloms too. Your steering input seemed fairly late and quite jerky. Smooth it out, turn earlier, and go faster.
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Sep 18, 2012 05:34
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Muffinpox posted:Is that commenting on one of my S2000 videos? I'm not driving the lotus, DNFing on the exit box is usually just embarrassing. Sorry, I assumed the lotus was you, although if your July 7th video is any indication, you could smooth out your steering a bit as well. The lotus driver seemed like he had set steering positions, and would jump quickly from one position to the next then hold that position for a bit. In contrast, you started out good on turning in early and smooth, but then something happened about half way though. Seemed like something threw you out of your grove and caused you to start turning in later, which seemed to make you turn more, which then ended up being too much. You then corrected quite a bit fast. Serious question, do you talk to yourself on a run?
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Sep 18, 2012 06:58
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Muffinpox posted:Yea, I let my eyes drop. I wasn't sure if you were commenting on earlier videos where I tend to slow down/speed up in slaloms and end up being late and wide vs. taking them at steady state throttle, another S2000 owner had the same critique about too much steering input unsettling the rear making me slow. You might try talking to yourself, even if you are alone. I've found it helps to process what you are seeing and doing during the run and after. Things like "where is that pointer cone" during a run can help to remind you where to look, and "poo poo I was late here" will help you remember after the run what to correct.
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Sep 18, 2012 17:09
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TrueChaos posted:Last Ottawa event of the year... one more at Picton airfield this weekend. Not bad, but plenty to work on. I personally think the camera angle sucked, however there not much you can do in that car to "fix" it. Basically I had a hard time seeing the course until you were on top of it, and difficulty gauging how close you were to the cones, until I saw that you were way off (more on that later). Good things: you look ahead, most of the time. You are finding the next element and figuring out where you need to go before you complete the current one. Its a little hard to see from the video if you are doing it all the time, but you seem to be doing it most of the time. Its something you'll have to constantly work on, but you seem to understand the basics. "Bad" things: -From the video, it sounded like you coasted a lot. Generally you want to be either gas, brake, or modulating the throttle (keeping you speed up/small acceleration in sections where you can't go flat out). -It looked like you were several feet off of nearly every cone, especially in the turns that were over 90 degrees. If you are in a U-turn and you are 4 feet off that apex cone, you just went 8 feet out of your way (4 out and 4 back). Start aiming to hit cones until you actually do. It'll tell you where the body of the car ends and where you need to be. Then back off a bit so you stop hitting cones, but are still right on top of them. I'm assuming the camera was a gopro based on the fish eye distortion. Mount it on the rear quarter panel on one side of the car with the large suction cup so that you get a good view of how far off the cones you actually are. -Your steering inputs are late, and you need to connect features together. Turning early means you turn less, which allows you to go faster and straightens out the arcs thus minimizing distance. For connecting features together, study the slaloms. I saw you go up to a cone, turn, go straight, go to the next cone, turn, etc. The whole thing should be constant back and forth fluid motion. The steering wheel shouldn't be static and there shouldn't be any straight parts. Once you've got it linked together, you should notice you can carry a lot more speed. Then you should start working on "backsiding" the cones in the slalom. Basically you want to be turning so far ahead that you are starting to turn for a cone when you are next to the cone before it. If you draw a line between two cones in a slalom, you want to cross that line right on the backside of the first cone and start turning right around when you do that. Does your club allow you to ride in other people's cars? If so, I would recommend you take advantage of that. Ride in cars similar to yours (if possible) and pick out one major thing others are doing that you are not, such as slamming on the brakes. Then experiment with that thing on your runs for a few events. Remember, its cones in a parking lot. Don't get too focused on what you suck at to the point where its not fun. Its supposed to be fun, and most of your improvement comes from experience, pushing the limits a little bit each day, not trying to make massive improvements in one go. Brigdh fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 07:09
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TrueChaos posted:Thanks! This is exactly what I needed. Looking ahead is the one thing I've really been working on all season, and it has definitely helped. I'm normally closer to the cones, but we had 3 runs in either direction that day, and in both cases I coned my first two runs trying to get close to the cones, so my third run I backed off a bit to get a clean run in. It's definitely something I've been more conscious of lately - especially in 90 degree or more turns. I'll definitely try a different mounting position for the gopro next event. I agree, only focus on improving one thing at a time, because what ends up happening is your normal skills suck a bit as you concentrate on the new thing, which ends up splitting you concentration as you try to keep you skills at their normal level while working on the new thing. I'd say steering is probably most important for you right now. Once you start getting it "right", it will unlock greater speed potential. Even though it sounds backwards, I've found that you generally need a minimum speed to drive a slalom correctly, and the faster you go, the easier it becomes. The back and forth weight shifts from faster speeds actually help turn the car (not drifting though)
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Oct 10, 2012 17:06
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TrueChaos posted:Will do! One of the things I've been told before is to try to be more smooth with my steering inputs - is that kind of what you mean? I'm trying to wrap my head around what to be thinking about during a run. For example, I've been telling myself to look up for most of the season, and I put a piece of tape across my windshield and tryed not to look below it. Maybe if I focus on linking my turns? Linking turns, which is part of being smooth, involves looking ahead. Not only are you looking at where you are, and where you need to be, but also where you need to be after that, and trying to form one smooth arc that links all three. This is different than "point to point" driving where you get to where you need to be next, then you decide how to continue. There is a slalom in your video at about 30 seconds. To enter, you jerked the steering wheel left. Visually what I saw was you exited that turn, then decided you needed to be over to the left to enter the slalom. Since you were already on the slalom when you decided that, you had to make a big steering input that didn't flow well from what you did before.
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Oct 11, 2012 03:33
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Phone posted:At least go HP+. Why recommend HP+? For street and autocross, they are generally dusty, noisy, and overly aggressive (pads and rotors will wear out much faster). With those two things being the focus, and track days being rare, I'd go with the HPS instead.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:58
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Autocross video time! My third event and the first time i managed to make gopro work and would like some criticism (positive and negative) on how i can get better at this whole malarkey. Driving technique, car upgrades, camera angles, everything is fair game. I tried to make this not a boring "hood cam" video, becuase nobody but the driver likes those. Sorry to poo poo on your parade, but that video is not very good from a coaching standpoint. I can't see your hands, I can't see your helmet (thus where you are looking), and two of the views don't give me any sense of the course. First view: you were probably 2-3 feet off of every cone you should have been only a few inches off of on the left side, which is the easy side to get correct. Second view: I can kinda see the course, but the massively uneven angle makes it hard to comprehend without really concentrating. I would probably watch the section 50 times and really comment, but I'm not gonna go through that effort. Only thing I got from this was you were feet off of important cones on the right side as well Third view: bloody hell, this is terrible. Interesting and artsy, but utterly terrible for coaching. Also, the camera was mounted too low. If you were on the cones like you should be, then your camera would have been knocking them over. I probably could comment more, but I'm not putting in the effort unless you make it easy for me.
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Oct 15, 2012 20:05
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His time: 0:46, my time 0:54 buddys r comp s2000 time: 0:57.
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Ziploc posted:Cameras are cheap. Multi-angle dat poo poo. Just curious, what are you using to sync the multiple videos? A loud clap?
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Oct 17, 2012 22:38
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Ziploc posted:That is exactly how to do it. I was wondering if you happened to have a novel different way to do it.
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Oct 18, 2012 20:34
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Ziploc posted:I should have worded it differently. That's how I do it. Yeah, typically it works really well, I've just had some issue with it depending on camera location, and ambient sound in grid, so I was wondering if you happened to be doing something different.
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Oct 20, 2012 20:34
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