Zhentar posted:

So they converted a general travel lane to a second HOV lane, raised the HOV requirement to the strictest allowed. They decided to spend millions to add toll access too; the tolls will pay for the cost of collecting tolls.

Geirskogul posted:

If you feel tingling in your head you're too close to the shower and/or need to wear thicker shower shoes.

`Nemesis posted:

A friend of mine inherited a house that was built prior to grounded outlets being a thing.

She has asked me if I can update a select number of outlets to be three prong.

Is there a guideline for how to do this properly? I would assume that simply swapping two prong outlets to three prong is dumb, but I also don't want to stumble into rewiring a whole house either.

kid sinister posted:

Nope. Leperflesh was right. Wire nuts are for covering twisted wires.

OSU_Matthew posted:

That's because you guys have metric electrons, right?

Though in all seriousness, I wonder if it's because your residential voltage is 240 vs our 120? I could definitely see that being justification for different safety related limitations.

This is a stupid question from someone with a very lay understanding of electricity, but is UK's 240v household electric single phase? Or is it split phase like the US?

Sagebrush posted:

Why don't British houses just have the scandinavian boiling water taps if they're so obsessed with tea?

Zhentar posted:

If you didn't watch the youtube posted earlier, the UK power grid uniquely experiences huge spikes in demand that they call "TV pickups", caused by hundreds of thousands of people switching on their tea kettles at the end of TV shows. On a daily basis, over the course of of five minutes, grid demands will spike up by hundreds of megawatts. Special events will cause spikes on the order of gigawatts. To deal with it, they had to develop the fastest responding power generation in the world, a pumped storage system that can go from zero to 1.3GW in 12 seconds (compared to typical "fast response" power plants that take 5+ minutes to start up)n

GotLag posted:

Is he just letting go of the chainsaw?

some_admin posted:

Does anyone here (USA) have professional knowledge of NFPA part 54?

My RInnai direct vent gas furnace is installed in the basement, and says that must adhere to NFPA 54.
I signed up at NFPA and read it a few times, from what I can tell, this means that the exhaust gas vent extensions cannot be mounted where they not inspectable, and that joints in the vent extensions cannot be concealed.

Of course, mine are installed behind the drywall, no access without ripping out drywall.

Just curious if I am understanding the NFPA part 54 correctly.

The Rinnai installation manual shows the pipes routed outside the drywall in a basement installation.

some_admin posted:

Yep, thats exactly the kind of thing I am worried about. Imminent CO poisoning OR the house burning down. OR both.

We're super aggravated because the HVAC *contractor put these Rinnai heaters in with too long of a pipe and too many elbows and now the flame chamber and heat exchanger are
rusting out 5 years into ~20 year lifespan.


* = supposedly RInnai certified, at the top of their website for local installers.

Pigsfeet on Rye posted:

The horror begins...:

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3431884&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=119#post442930815

kid sinister posted:

Good Lord. How big was your family?

atomicthumbs posted:

Cakefool posted:

Discretely though. You can drill through drywall with a spoon.

Motronic posted:

I'm trying to justify this as a commercial style wash/rinse/sanitize type setup......but the surrounding area seems to demonstrate enough cash that they weren't trying to make it out of things they found at Habitat for Humanity ReStore like I do. And then....there's the 4th sink. Sterilize?

Alereon posted:

Yeah I guess I would be more embarrassed about it except for how ridiculously well it works compared to commercial products. "Lifehacky" stuff generally doesn't actually work for poo poo.

Alereon posted:

Nordic Pure sells filters factory-direct, you can get whatever size and filtration level you want at very reasonable prices. If you aren't too picky they also do clearance sales on Amazon continuously, I got a 2-pack of filters that would have been $20 each for $10 total that way.

Alereon posted:

Oh yeah if you only have a 1" thick filter MERV12 isn't going to work for poo poo, look at the Tru Mini Pleated filters. MERV11 Tru Mini should last about twice as long, if you've been tolerating that pressure drop you could probably use a MERV8 Tru Mini for even longer. As the filter ages small particle performance will drop as the electrets (like magnets but for electrostatic fields) get coated, but >1um filtering performance actually goes up.

The tiny rear end table on comparative pressure drops of various types of filters on this page is super interesting/useful, in my opinion.

E: Of course all of the above depends on how much pressure your system can actually push and how much airflow it requires, but I'm going to assume a system that accepts 1" thick filters is kind of old and not really meant for high performance filters, else it would accept thicker filters. I'm no HVAC expert I just learned a shitton about air filters.

MG3 posted:

A clear filter isn't going to cause it to work too hard.

ExplodingSims posted:

I do commercial HVACR work here in Florida.

You can put a gallon bucket under a condensate drain of an RTU here and watch in fill up in about 10 minutes. Humidity is crazy bad here.

Bad Munki posted:

I hope he found what he was looking for!

OSU_Matthew posted:

I almost did the same thing to the screws included with the new handles I put in, but in a rare moment of better judgement, I went ahead and threaded two nuts onto each bolt, clamped them up one at a time, and shortened each and every one with a hacksaw, and then chased the threads out with the nuts to clean them up. Took awhile, but it was easy, cheap, and the results were worth it.

Motronic posted:

I know this is a joke, but only doors counted as (and legitimately) egress need to do that in commercial.

For residential, where you aren't expected to have a caretaker outside while you are inside egress doors open inward. I would really suck rear end if you couldn't open any of your doors after an overnight snowfall.......

Javid posted:

It's heeeeere!

Zhentar posted:

Tumblr has deemed you unworthy of the full res images scaled in browser to 700px wide and instead is sending you images downscaled server side to 500px, because that's the kind of poo poo Tumblr does.

Alereon posted:

Why do mcmansions have more bathrooms than bedrooms? Does each bedroom have a private bath plus one or two shared for company?

H110Hawk posted:

Hi construction thread! I went in my back yard today for the first time in 2 weeks and noticed this, no idea how long it's been that way:

Atticus_1354 posted:

I was going to say that is an easy fix after your first picture, but now maybe not. Hopefully the collapse didn't cause extra roof damage. Does that beam just support the roof overhang? You should get someone out pronto who can jack that up and replace the beam. It would also be a good time to see if any of those rafters need to be replaced. That seems like a small beam for that distance, but it is hard to tell from pictures.

Jealous Cow posted:

I was gonna say "shower tension rod" but that works too.

OSU_Matthew posted:

Well, hey, look on the bright side... Judging by the shade of the grass, at least you don't have to worry about rain anytime soon!

Glad you were able to salvage it--looks good!

High Lord Elbow posted:

RIP load-bearing Christmas lights. Did you check the tensile strength of high-gauge copper wiring? It might have held.

SynthOrange posted:

http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/melbournes-highrise-nightmares-taking-a-tall-toll-on-residents-and-investors-20160916-gri6l4.html

Motronic posted:

Like a truck stop bathroom.