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dyne
May 9, 2003
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kastein posted:

* coffee cans. I would think this was bad, but they were being used as electrical boxes and chimney pipes, so I think it was horrible.

My favorite surprise when renovating my last house was an electrical box made of two sandwiched foil pie plates, encasing several electrical-taped connections, buried in loose fill insulation, covered with planks in the attic floor. I disconnected and replaced every bit of wiring in that house.

I also found a lot of Jesus in my walls.

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dyne
May 9, 2003
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Papercut posted:

It's just an indication that the incoming electrical service (including meter box and the main disconnect) has passed inspection. Most (all?) local utilities won't actually connect conductors to your building without it.

I upgraded my electrical service this past summer and the power company did the disconnect/reconneect without an inspection; I just had to get it inspected within 5 days. It was great as I was only without power for a couple hours.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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PopeCrunch posted:

This is from a few pages back but ahahahaha. I have a side gig doing home inspections for insurance companies, and several insurance companies will straight up refuse to insure you or cancel your policy if they find out you have any FEP or Stab-Lok stuff in the house. This is one of the VERY FEW absolute dealbreakers - they'll even shrug and not give a poo poo about knob and tube or that oldass aluminum wiring that sucked. It's pretty goddamned bad when a piece of equipment is so hosed up that insurers will flat out refuse to take your money. :V
When we bought our current home, it had the stab lok box of doom. We found out a month later the insurance company was dropping us because of it, so I ended up putting a whole new electrical service to make them happy.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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ColHannibal posted:

Which is why a lot of things that utilized the stuff won't be replaced. As long as you don't try to remove it or kick it up it's fine.

Won't stop people from thinking it's radioactive though.

And even if you kick up a bunch of it, it doesn't increase your lifetime risk of cancer or lung problems much.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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The thing is, mesothelioma is an uncommon malignancy so even if you double the risk of it, your chance of contracting it is still very, very low. You're more at risk of developing asbestosis, though that is also uncommon.

dyne fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Feb 2, 2014

dyne
May 9, 2003
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The railing looks sturdy at least!

dyne
May 9, 2003
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Nitrox posted:

I have a piece of Corian that fell off a delivery truck and got written off because of damage. Still good enough to make about 7 feet of a counter top. Not that I would want that poo poo as a counter top, but I'm sure somebody will eventually.

Also, don't put Corian in your kitchen, it's loving stupid. It's worse than laminate in just about every way, but cost way more. Guaranteed to be stained by coffee spills and melt under hot pots. And as an added bonus, you can gauge the poo poo out of it with knifes or cooking utensils.

I'm putting it in mine (well not specifically the corian brand). It doesn't stain, it's very easy to repair any scratches (and gouges can be filled in), and looks much nicer than laminate.

Part of the reasoning of getting it vs granite is that you can buy solid surface sheets and DIY for less than half the price. I had it in my last house and it was great.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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nmfree posted:

Looking at Harbor Freight, Jet, Delta, and Dust Right equipment I feel confident in saying that 4" is pretty much the industry standard. Many of the setups I've seen use thin-wall PVC bolted to the walls with tees cut in where necessary.

Well, it's frequently 4" at the machine. I think I would run 6" under the slab. I think that's the recommended diameter for runs through the workshop.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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Tasty_Crayon posted:

Better make sure it's in tip top shape- flash flood warnings all over the area this week!

Oh man :(

dyne
May 9, 2003
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Motronic posted:


While I'm sure that the vent was there before the addition was put on, it was not extended through the soffit in this photo nor should it be.

I'm pretty sure the vent is supposed to extend a bit past the roof line. They should have put a pair of elbows on there to offset the vent and extended it past the addition's roof

dyne
May 9, 2003
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I had something like that in my house a few years ago. NY paid for half my insulation, furnace, and water heater

dyne
May 9, 2003
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I just wish they had put a sink in that vanity draining right into the tub.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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Magnus Praeda posted:

Also, typically uninsurable. Most mortgage lenders won't pony up the cash until they're removed and replaced.

This happened to me. I had to replace the panel within a month of moving in, which I had expected.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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KillHour posted:

Basement. I'm down there quite a bit, too. Can't believe I didn't notice until today. :doh:

And yes, that is directly under the bathtub. "Hmm, this joist is in the way of the plumbing for a container designed to hold a half a ton or more of water on a daily basis. I'll just get rid of it." :downs:

Edit: Obviously there are no baths in my future until I get this fixed (luckily I have another bathroom with a shower), but how important is it that I get this taken care of RIGHT NOW? I don't really have the money to do anything with it, and it's been that way for years, but it's very obviously causing the floor to bow.

A plumber did the same thing in my bathroom before I started really DIY'ing. He left less than an inch and a half a joist right under the tub. The floor had a bit of bounce before I repaired/reinforced it.

dyne
May 9, 2003
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My Lovely Horse posted:

This thread has damaged me. There was a moment, right between you turning on the hose and water starting to pour down, where I was convinced it would turn out that it drained to the inside of the house.

Yeah, same here.

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dyne
May 9, 2003
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We removed a bunch of wall paper in our kitchen and thr setting layer of plaster came off with it. Now i have to skim coat a couple of the walls to fix it.

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