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Is that a reference to the movie House, or something else?
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Apr 28, 2013 02:08
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Bad Munki posted:There are some floor squeak kits where you basically drive a special screw in, and the head breaks off below the board, fixing the floor to the joist underneath without leaving (much) of a visible mark. I can't remember what they're called, and I've never used them or seen them used, but the ads claim they work. Of course, that's for addressing spots, as opposed to, say, an entire floor. I've never used them, either, but I've seen them in the McFeely's catalogs I get. All of the other types of fasteners I've bought from them have been top-notch, so I would expect these to live up to the hype. http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SNM-3320/Squeeeeek-No-Morereg-Hardwood-Floor-Kit-w25-Screws
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Jun 26, 2013 04:00
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In the banner ads, there is one that shows an interior stairwell that is insulated on the underside, but the link goes to a game thread or something completely unrelated. I'm pretty sure that picture came from a thread in this forum. Is he being mocked for pointlessly overdoing it, or did he do it for a logical reason like he had a bunch of extra insulation and stuck it under there for sound/echo deadening?
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Jan 15, 2014 04:13
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I'm sort of familiar with the saga of the Groverhaus and the fallout of the thread but I don't recall much about the actual construction or what he did for his name to become synonymous with load bearing drywall. Does that thread still exist, or was it completely deleted?
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Jan 15, 2014 05:08
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NancyPants posted:Mine is horrific but ima level witchu: There is stuff called Tornado 50 that is amazing at cleaning those aluminum filters (and a lot of other stuff). I mixed it about 3:1 water to cleaner and filled the kitchen sink deep enough to submerge the filter and let it soak for about 15 minutes. The filter was filthy with that gummed up grease that is about impossible to clean off when it went in, but after soaking, the water looked like toilet water after a hard night of drinking and taco bell and the filter looked brand new. I don't mean "looked pretty good", but like it was just pulled off the shelf at the hardware store without the slightest trace of grease. The hard part is getting it. You can probably get it in St. Albans WVA where it is manufactured, and they have a distributor in La Crosse WI. If, for some strange reason, you don't live in either of those towns, you can order it if you call them. When I ordered it, their minimum order was 4 gallons (had something to do with freight shipping hazardous chemicals or something like that) and they were like $20/gal. It was spendy, but four gallons will last a LONG time because you dilute it at 15:1 for general cleaning.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:33
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I worked in a sensitive military facility that had a halon system. They told us when it goes off, it unloads Halon so fast that it blows poo poo everywhere like a hurricane and we may or may not get out of the building alive. Not sure if any of that was actually true or if it was just a way to scare us from pulling the fire alarm. They used to also have incendiary grenades on top of all the racks of electronic equipment but they got rid of them. I don't know why they took them out, but my best guess is that bored soldiers are capable of doing really dumb poo poo.
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Apr 19, 2014 01:19
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The grenades were there to destroy the cryptography equipment in a hurry to keep it from getting into enemy hands. The two systems were intended to be used independent of each other. If something isn't on fire but should be, use a grenade. If something is on fire and shouldn't be, use Halon.
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Apr 19, 2014 12:59
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:I was kinda thinking that the grenades would cause the halon to automatically deploy, but now that you mention it yeah the grenades probably wouldn't give a gently caress about the halon and just keep on truckin' right through to the floor. The halon wasn't automatic. There was a big red button on the wall (like a shutoff switch on a table saw) to deploy it.
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Apr 20, 2014 02:36
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kizudarake posted:-went to Popular Mechanics website. Holy gently caress, I don't have anything to soften the caulk. Maybe that'll help! Please correct me if I am wrong (because I'd love to know), but I was under the impression that there is no solvent known to man for silicon caulk.
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May 17, 2014 05:59
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MisterOblivious posted:With a drainline heat exchanger to preheat the water heading into the tankless water heater. Seems like that thing would clog up in a heartbeat. Javid posted:A grey water tank to run the toilet is a good way to reuse shower water, if you can rig it. You'd need somewhere to store that water until you need it and a way to pump that water into the toilet tank. I'd guess that it would be more expensive to use recycled water than to use regular water.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:28
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Ahh, right. That make a hell of a lot more sense.
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Jun 11, 2014 02:38
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slap me silly posted:Last one's the best. "Let me just reach over this saw with my arm to toss this in the basket!" I don't understand German at all, so I thought that the wood went underneath and that throttle cable was a guard to keep you from hitting the blade from the top. After seeing it in action, it still seems like a pretty good idea overall.
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Jun 17, 2014 02:21
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FCKGW posted:Well the houses themselves put off a ton of heat due to all the lamps so cops can fly around in helicopters with thermal imaging and check out which homes are glowing. How would A/C help? The heat still has to exit somewhere. Wouldn't LEDs be a good alternative? Low power consumption and heat output, and you can narrow the light output bandwith to only the colors that plants need, so there is very little waste energy going to heat or unused colors.
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Jun 18, 2014 01:30
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djhaloeight posted:So I'm not trying to burst your shower nirvana bubble, because trust me I love a good high flow shower, but if that thing emptied your 40 gallon water heater in 15 minutes, that's about 2.6 gallons per minute give or take. Wouldn't it be higher flow than that considering that it is using 2.6GPM of hot water, but there's going to be cold water mixed in (unless he likes really hot showers).
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Jun 22, 2014 19:06
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Why is it that AC power is referred to as both 110/120 and 220/240? Is it an RMS vs peak difference?
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Jul 6, 2014 01:01
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Leperflesh posted:Finding whoever last showerd's pubes in your toothbrush must be a real loving joy. You can brush and floss at the same time.
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Aug 21, 2014 04:40
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Here is my basement staircase featuring stylish elements of 1970s decor. My biggest concern is that there are no handrails and the passage isn't wide enough to properly install one without the door hitting it (the door opens towards the stairs). The only feasible solutions I can come up with are: 1 - Install a handrail, but stop shy about 2' from the top of the stairs - Not too thrilled about that. 2 - Remount the door so it opens outward into the upstairs hallway - seems like the best idea. Any better solutions?
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Oct 20, 2014 17:49
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Dick Trauma posted:
The basement walls are covered in thick shag carpet, but it is more for sound deadening than visual decoration. I'm afraid I don't have an exciting disco room in the basement - only the cistern room and my sewing room. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Put the handrail on the side with the doorknob and you should be able to terminate it closer to the door, I would think. That's the 2' I mentioned before. It would also be at the right height to bang your hip into the end of the handrail when going downstairs. I'm thinking that reversing the door so it opens outward would be best, but can you just remove the whole works and spin it around 180 degrees?
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Oct 20, 2014 18:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hunh, wouldn't have thought it'd take 2' to get clearance. Hip-banging can be solved by having a smooth taper of the rail into the wall; you probably want to do that anyway. Even a 45° taper would be better than a blunt end. I wasn't expecting to have to leave that much space either, but when I measured it out, that's about what it was. I think flipping the door and cutting new mortises for the hinges and strike plate is the way to go. I just pulled the trim off one side of the door to get a look at how the frame was installed and it looks like there is no way to remove it without destroying it or at least really loving it up. It is fastened to the studs with countersunk finish nails. I can't pull the nails by prying the frame boards away from the wall because the top and sides are connected by a double rabbit joint.
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Oct 20, 2014 20:48
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Bad Munki posted:Overhead door like in a garage. There is nothing above or below that doorway. The space under the stairs is empty, so I could use that area to rig up some gears and counterweights to make it a vertically opening door. I just need to figure out how to have a pre-delay with a whirring noise, then add some clicking sounds (like a roller coaster going up the first incline) as the door opens. Dry ice would work for the wooshing smoke on a short term basis, but I'd need something else for a long-term solution.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:24
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How would I go about finding out if anything like that is available in Minnesota?
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Nov 15, 2014 02:17
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On toilet talk, the toilet in my basement (probably from the mid 60s) flushes very slow. You have to hold the handle down for about 10-15 seconds while it weakly flushes. It is in a utility room and gets used only once or twice a month, so it isn't a huge deal, but I was thinking of replacing the toilet in my main bathroom and am wondering if it would be worth it to just go ahead and replace the toilet in the basement while I am at it, or if the slow flushing is more likely caused by low elevation and lack of gravity? The innards of the toilet appear to be completely functional and the flap opens all the way when the lever is depressed.
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Dec 30, 2014 02:43
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I thought it might be that the drain pipe could be barely above the elevation of the sewer main out under the street, so that's why I mentioned the gravity/elevation part. I've adjusted the float the the back of the tank is full, it just seems like there is very little action going on in the bowl when I press the lever - it acts like there is a partial clog at the outlet but it has been that way for 10 years. If it doesn't seem likely that the elevation of the toilet relative to the sewer main would be the problem, then I'll install a new toilet. I just didn't want to pay for a new one only to discover that it wouldn't make any difference.
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Dec 30, 2014 07:14
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Leperflesh posted:The tank at the back of the toilet is higher than the toilet bowl. That makes sense when you explain it like that. Thanks much!
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Dec 31, 2014 01:44
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kid sinister posted:How hard is your water? You might just have to clean out the jets in the bowl, both the big one at the bottom and the little ones around the underside of the rim. A wire coat hanger usually works pretty good for this, just be careful not to scratch the porcelain. That's a good suggestion and it makes sense. The water here is pretty hard. A lot of calcium and some iron and other trace metals (based on my amateur observations of the stains in my tub and toilet). I think I am going to just replace the whole thing though. This isn't a situation where I am thinking, "well, it would be a nice toilet if it just flushed correctly". The whole thing is in terrible shape and the area in the bowl between the top of the water and the rim is just filthy with mineral deposits. I'm guessing that is a result of very slow leaking from the jets over the course of years combined with it only getting flushed once in a blue moon.
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Jan 1, 2015 16:20
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Dillbag posted:This guy did our home inspection. I got a 25-page report similar to this (without as many deficiencies, of course) and I got to watch him freak the poo poo out of my realtor. Best $650 I've ever spent. After seeing the report, I wouldn't have blinked if you told me you spent $3000 on it. I've owned my house for 10 years and I'd gladly pay him $650 to come over and do an inspection just as a maintenance guide. Do inspectors have the power to condemn things or force you to move out if they find problems that make a home non-inhabitable?
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Jan 6, 2015 02:28
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Motronic posted:No, but they sure do know the phone numbers of the people who can do that. Gounads posted:If you have a home inspection done on a house your thinking about buying, and the inspector finds something that makes the home uninhabitable, the sellers are required to disclose that information to anyone else looking to buy the house. (At least in this state, MA) I've owned my house for 10 years and have no plans to move out in my lifetime, but can see the benefit of having a guy like that do an inspection on my house so I can be aware of current and future problems that I need to take care of. My concern was that he might come in and say something like, "Sorry, you have the wrong controller module installed on your furnace that has been working fine for 20 years. Your furnace will legally be turned off until you get a licensed furnace tech in here to install a whole new furnace for $6000. Since it is January in Minnesota with subzero high temps for the next month, your house is also uninhabitable now and you will have to find somewhere else to live in the interest of child welfare until this problem is resolved." Gross exaggeration, but that is along the lines of what concerns me if I have an inspector come check my house out.
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Jan 7, 2015 06:13
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Wild EEPROM posted:I'd pay extra to not have to read all this HOA poo poo that comes up every dozen pages or so and goes on for another dozen pages HOA horror stories are one of my favorite parts of this thread. Schadenfreude more than anything, really.
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Jan 25, 2015 17:20
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I had some email conversations that started by me asking if he could personally recommend any inspectors in my area of the USA. Very friendly, helpful guy, and extremely informative (even though I was just some random guy on the internet having an email conversation and not paying him a dime), but, from what I gathered, there was a zero left off of that $650 figure. Not to say that his report isn't worth $6500 (I believe he is worth every penny). From my conversations with him and the amount of time he puts into inspecting a house and creating his reports, I'm thinking there is no way in hell you are getting it for $650 unless his hourly fee is well below minimum wage.
Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 10, 2015 06:57
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Don't garage doors have a pressure sensor? All the ones I've known in the past 20-30 years or so use the IR sensor, but I seem to remember in my younger days before they used IR that if you shoved something under the garage door, it would stop and open back up. edit: if pressure sensors have been replaced by IR optic sensors, I just came up with a new idea for a high output can crusher. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Mar 17, 2015 |
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Mar 17, 2015 05:18
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CopperHound posted:Why do all these improperly installed sensors still have all the excess wire slack? Are they delusional enough to think that they will fix it later? Maybe they have the same problem I do where spiders build webs in front of the sensors and leaves and other debris get stuck in the web and block the sensors and they don't want to clean them because eww spiders.
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Mar 18, 2015 01:29
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Wasabi the J posted:
Maybe the mean in the kitchen.
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May 12, 2015 14:18
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Not crappy construction, but this seems to be the most knowledgeable place about code issues, so I have a question. I'm in charge of getting some additional lighting installed in the office at my job. The lights we want are LED strip lights that hang about 3" below the ceiling tile. One of them will be located about 12" from a fire sprinkler head. I mentioned this concern to an electrician who is bidding on the project and he basically shrugged it off. Is it the electrician's responsibility to make sure that his install does not violate any other building codes, or does his responsibility end at installing up to electrical code? If it is the latter, what steps do I need to take prior to accepting the bid and getting the work done to make sure the finished product won't violate fire code?
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May 13, 2015 02:42
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I remember a thread for household wiring with the title "don't burn your house down", but I'll be damned if I can find it. The wires in my A/C heat exchanger are in bad shape and I'd like to replace them. They are flexible stranded 12 AWG with a thick rubber insulation that I assume is for abrasion resistance due to the vibration from the fan and compressor. My local hardware store doesn't have anything like that, so I need to order it online, but I don't know what it is called. Can somebody give me a link to what I need? Also, I ordered a cheap connector (butt, spade, ring, quick, etc.) assortment and wire nut assortment from Amazon and they are pretty crappy. Any suggestions for brand names of good quality connectors and wire nuts?
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Jun 6, 2016 05:16
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kid sinister posted:Come on dude, it's stickied here. That being said, you might be looking for something SJOOW cable. Well, that explains why I couldn't find it in Ask/Tell. I was starting to believe that thread took a serious downhill turn and got completely deleted from the forums.
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Jun 7, 2016 01:19
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c0ldfuse posted:1) Door off center 7. Four unique windows.
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Aug 22, 2016 05:10
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