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evelyn87 posted:Use gelatin in your bottling bucket or kegs - read up on it - it's freaking amazing. Only if you don't care about serving your beer to strict vegans. Just a warning, not a recommendation either way.
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Oct 31, 2014 20:25
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crazyfish posted:Has anyone had experience with WY1028 or WY1099 stalling in low-OG worts? Both of them are stuck around 1.015; while the WY1028 wort started around 1.042 (leaving 1.015 being mostly fine), the WY1099 wort started at 1.030ish, meaning my beer is a lean 2.3%. Both of them have been in the freezer at d-rest temps for almost two weeks now and neither seems to be drying out much from when I first checked. I haven't had this problem with higher gravity worts, just low. As an update to this, I gave the WY1099 beer a shake and a couple more weeks at d-rest temps, and it dropped down to 1.003. Looks like a little shake was all that it needed. The diacetyl is gone too, and I'll be kegging both beers tonight.
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Nov 10, 2014 19:06
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:It's crazy how little zest is needed to get a pronounced citrus character in a beer. I think I went a little overboard with 10g in my saison. Did you use dried peel or fresh? I can't even imagine how long it takes to get 10g of zest from fresh fruit. For reference, I used 2g of fresh grated key lime peel in one of my first few batches (a key lime witbier) and it smelled and tasted great.
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Nov 12, 2014 18:16
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Ovens are, however, good insulators, so one thing I've heard people do was turn the oven on, let it get a bit above your mash temp, and then kill the heat and put the mash container inside.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:13
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more falafel please posted:All I've done so far is put some oxyclean in a keg, push it through with CO2 and let some sit for a few minutes, then the same with starsan. I would do that every other keg or so, or when it looked like there was gunk in the line. I just got a bottle of actual caustic line cleaner though, and I'm either going to build/buy some sort of hand pump recirculator, or get a cheap submersible pump. I thought about running it through my Chugger pump but that seems like overkill. I got a couple adapters to hook my beer line up to an autosiphon and I just use that to pump PBW through. No reason to use a specialty pump system.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:33
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Does anyone have any experience with those Perlick flow restricting faucets? They're expensive, but my kegerator only has two taps so I wouldn't have to buy more than two, and I really like the idea of being able to fill growlers without having to dig way in the back and loving with my serving pressure. I was going to upgrade to Perlicks anyway, so I thought I'd listen to people's thoughts on those.
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Jan 3, 2015 20:18
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ok, I'm hopefully approaching order day for 3 batches of beer. These are my recipes, Thoughts? Lighten or reduce the crystal. C60 is pretty dark. quote:2. Once again, that's probably too much crystal/carapils. quote:3. No hops at all? Maybe throw some super low AA Hallertau or other noble hops in the mash?
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Jan 5, 2015 18:51
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Actually, another thing I noticed: Does red wheat malt have much diastatic power? If not, you'll probably need some 6-row or pils in there to help convert, otherwise your efficiency is going to be dogshit. And a pound of C120 is a *lot* for a 3 gallon beer.
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Jan 5, 2015 21:46
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ExtremistCow posted:About a year ago I got a decent scale and started measuring all my volumes by weight. It's so much easier than eyeballing questionably accurate tick marks on a bucket. Basically I measure my strike & sparge water (I start with RO) in kilograms where 1 kilo = 1 liter.  Holy hell, I need to do this for my next batch. Thanks for the tip!
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Jan 14, 2015 18:46
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adebisi lives posted:I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. My personal favourite SMaSH beer is pilsner/nelson sauvin/WY3711. Throw some rye in there too if you feel like it.
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Jan 27, 2015 01:06
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Does anyone have any pointers on diagnosing a super slow CO2 leak? I refilled my tank a while ago and when I went to pour a pint, it was empty. It had only been used to carb and serve most of one keg (on tap for about a month and a half), so I knew something was off. I swapped tanks, hooked the regulator up, set it to about 30 psi, and turned the tank valve completely closed. Starsan test didn't show any leaks, and the regulator loses about 1-2 psi per day in this state, which, as you can tell, is quite slow. Regulators are expensive, and I really don't want to have to drop the coin on a new one, so if there's any pointers you can provide to help me diagnose and/or fix it, that would be grand.
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Mar 9, 2015 17:18
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Robo Boogie Bot posted:I'm having a little trouble following you, I think what you are saying is that the tank is open, but the shut off valve of the regulator is closed, correct? Is the gas supply line hooked up to the keg, or just dangling free? Starting state: All valves closed. Open tank valve. Turn regulator pressure to 30 PSI. Close tank valve. Observe low pressure gauge on regulator. Keg hose is dangling free, keg is not hooked up. The ball valve which distributes the gas to the kegs is closed. I may stop by the brewing store and pick up a new washer, because I imagine they're cheap enough that there's no reason not to replace it; I did buy the regulator used and have never done so. crazyfish fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Mar 9, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 20:47
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McSpergin posted:I pressurised my lines, pulled the rear side (I have a one way valve between the gas bottle and manifold) and just submerged everything in a bath deep enough. Found the leak pretty quick, and because it's a fitting that won't get removed, silicon sealed it. No new leaks! Including the regulator? I've heard you shouldn't submerge regulators but I'm not sure specifically where I saw it.
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Mar 10, 2015 21:21
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I've rescued dead thermometer probes before (where they read some ridiculous number 200 degrees above actual temp). Take the probe, put it on a cookie sheet, and place it in a cold oven and turn the heat to 350. By the time the oven gets up to temp, the probe should work again.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:55
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McSpergin posted:definitely not the reg! everything but. I figured if nothing leaked, then it was the regulator Well, I finally got around to trying the submerge test, and actually found leaks in two different places: - My regulator has a distributor and two ball valves so I can pump the gas out to two different kegs (albeit at one pressure). It turns out that when either of the ball valves are partially open (all the way open or closed appears to not be an issue) there is a very audible leak around the valve lever. It's possible that if something gets bumped in the fridge that that lever could be what leaks out. - Most likely the culprit of this last round, the disconnect at the end of the gas tubing was loose and made visible bubbles when submerged. Thanks for everyone's help! Now to hook it back up and hope my IPA isn't totally ruined... edit: It was. I had gotten very near the bottom of the keg anyway, and it was total hop sludge. In fact, my faucet got clogged from hop debris. Dumped the remainder, and now I need to brew pretty urgently to get some taps going again. crazyfish fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Mar 13, 2015 |
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Mar 13, 2015 03:25
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 23:43 |
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Not really as far off, as, say, Dogfish Head Sixty-One is. http://www.dogfish.com/brews-spirits/the-brews/year-round-brews/sixty-one.htm
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Mar 19, 2015 18:38
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