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Good lookin' OP, Sunday Punch. Wheel options that will work with PC, PS3 and Xbox 360: Fanatec Porsche Wheel Turbo S - no longer available in Fanatec's store, but there are some unused ones still floating around at various retailers outside of the US, if you really want the full leather rim and original grey wheel base. $249.95 for the wheel only. Pedals and shifters are extra, and there is a range of choices on those as well. Fanatec Porsche GT2 - Essentially the same as the PWTS, still available on Fanatec's store, features an Alcantara rim and the same internals as the PWTS, and a black base with a cool "GT2" logo. $249.95 for the wheel only. Fanatec CSR Wheel - Very similar to the PWTS and GT2, but with a few updated internal parts. Honestly the main difference from what I've seen is that the mass of the wheel rim on this product is lighter, which makes turning and changing lock direction a little snappier but overall is very similar to the GT2. Same base unit, now in black with red vents. $249.95 for the wheel only. If you are primarily a road car driver, you will probably be happy with the GT2 as the look and feel of it is more reminiscent of your standard sports/exotic. If you prefer a more stripped-down, Racecar feel, you might want to go with the CSR wheel as the lighter rim gives a slightly snappier, easier turn feeling, and the styling is aimed more at the racecar enthusiast with Alcantara touches on a faux carbon fiber rim. All of these wheels are nicer than the Logitech G25/G27, and have the added advantage of working on the 360. The Logitech products will never ever ever work on the Xbox 360 without Microsoft or Logitech retrofitting a piece of hardware to the existing wheels, which is never going to happen so you should just sell it, buy a Fanatec, and get over it - if you're still holding out hope that someday your G25 will work. It won't. Coming soon (Later than November/Launch of Forza 4) Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel - This one will be twice the wheel that those previous 3 Fanatecs are - all metal internals, two FFB motors (over the 1 in the Porsche line), a detachable/swappable wheel rim so you can customize to the type of cars you like to drive, and a variety of onboard mounting points for items such as shifters, handbrakes, cupholders, and the like - including an optional mount so you can use an iPhone/Droid for telemetry through such PC games as iRacing.) This one will be $499.95, for the wheel only. All Fanatec wheels have upgradeable firmware (if you own a PC), an on-board tuning menu, and variable degree settings from 210 degrees up to 900 degrees of rotation. All Fanatecs also come stock with paddle shifters, so you do not need to order a shifter kit to use it - however, you will need pedals. Fanatecs also work with G25/G27 pedals and also the Microsoft Wireless Wheel pedals, make sure to request an adapter when you order as I don't think they are sent stock any more. You can compare Fanatec options here: http://www.fanatec.de/html/pw_overview.htm Buy Fanatec products here: http://www.fanatec.de/ Read about Fanatec developments here: http://www.911wheel.de/ Do not buy the plastic Porsche shifter, the new metal internal "CSR Shifter" is a massive improvement over those original ones and is only $20 more if you are ordering new. Clubsport Pedals really are the extra option that takes the Fanatec wheels to the level of Holy poo poo This Is Amazing (as is detailed nicely below by Ringo Star Get), so if you can afford them in the slightest do go ahead and save for them as they are more than $150 better than the standard, $50 plastic pedals. All Fanatec pedals come with a clutch. Once you have your Clubsport pedals, make sure to also buy a tube of dry bike chain lubricant and replace the grease that is on the braking cylinder (or risk having the occasional brake-stuck-on horrors.) Fanatec has exceptional customer service, but they are a tiny niche company producing products that are so good most people think they're a big corporation - so it may take them a few days to even reply to your email but rest assured they guarantee their products long beyond any reasonable amount of time after purchase and will take care of most issues without the slightest hiccup once you do get into the system. If you're not quite that hardcore, the Microsoft Wireless Wheel is a very good beginner/entrylevel wheel. You do get what you pay for in this segment, but with some effort you can usually find what was an originally $150 peripheral for $75ish on Ebay. There were build quality issues with this line of wheels, but if you can find one that's in good shape you will not be displeased with the results you get in Forza games. The MS Wireless Wheel was actually used for the development of Forza 2, so the effects and FFB is pretty spot-on in the Forza series. Things to be aware to watch for include broken FFB (the hub that the wheel sits on is geared with plastic, and can become worn down/broken relatively easily if it's been abused), slightly misaligned wheels that never sit quite centered, and microphone jacks that have some buzz in them or don't work at all. Given that this is now a used product only, you're going to have to take a few leaps of faith - but if you do track down a functional one, most users will be quite pleased with what it adds to the game. Obviously this controller will only work with a 360 or a PC (and no FFB on the PC.) If you end up with a MS WW, make sure to stuff a piece of foam rubber behind the pivot on the brake pedal and you will have a million times more braking feel than they are stock. I haven't used it myself, but I've been seeing that the new Microsoft Wireless Speed Wheel is getting decent reviews as a more casual wheel-like option - it's essentially a controller that uses an accelerometer (like in an iPhone) to tell what orientation you're holding it. Most people went into their reviews extremely skeptical and most came out pleasantly surprised. Missing some buttons that reside on standard controllers, so if you're a manual with clutch shifter, you might be disappointed with the lack of available buttons. Expect to pay about $80 for this. Do not confuse it with a Wii "wheel" as it's not kinect based, it's actually the controller that dictates the wheel position. Other options include a not-yet-available MadCatz offering (360 only) which does not have Force Feedback, and a Thrustmaster 360-only wheel that also does not have FFB. These wheels only rotate 270 degrees (about a turn and a half to 1.75 from center to lock.) Honestly, I think FFB is specifically what makes these games enjoyable with a wheel so I don't really have much to recommend about these two, but your mileage may vary. http://www.madcatz.com/productinfo.asp?page=248&GSProd=4961&GSCat=98&CategoryImg=Xbox_3.. http://www.thrustmaster.com/product.aspx?ProductID=239&PlatformID=8 If you end up with a Fanatec, the Fanatec Rennsport Wheelstand is the best option to mount it on as it is stylish enough for wives to tolerate in the living room, folds up for compact storage, and is rock-solid. Other choices are a full cockpit-setup Playseat, the WheelStand Pro, a $15 TV Tray from Target, or even just mounting it to a small piece of shelving and sitting it on your lap. Ether Frenzy fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 20:29
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Ringo Star Get posted:If anyone got a spare LCE I will gladly buy it, apparently there's no other place with LCE in stock http://www.frys.com/product/6713825?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Crustashio posted:Is the metal fanatec shifter actually that much better? I have the turbo S with the plastic shifter and it actually turned me off from playing forza 3 because the shifter was so loving terrible. It's WAY too notchy and constantly gets caught in the gates. Compared to a G25/G27 the fanatec shifter is just unusable and nothing like a proper car. Yeah, it's a huge improvement and makes shifting fun instead of "Not done because the plastic shifter is too noisy and random".
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Oct 7, 2011 21:46
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BlackLaser posted:It fixes the horrible 2-3, and 4-5 shift getting caught on the gate in the shifter? I only used it for 30 minutes or so at E3, but yeah - it makes shifting work properly. Still mounted via the chopsticks that stick into the side of the wheel, but the action is much smoother and I didn't have any missed shifts like happen all the time with the plastic one. I ordered it, so fingers crossed it's as good as I remember from June. Glad to help out, Ringo Star Get 
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Oct 7, 2011 22:03
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So one of you guys with the game already, can you still buy the LFA in 4 for full gamemoney price if you don't get a gifted one imported? And if you can't, someone send me one in 3 already. GT: Ether Frenzy
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Oct 10, 2011 21:19
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Anyone have a spare 1M code they'd like to swap for a Subaru? Best Buy decided to cancel my order this morning without sending me an email and despite charging my card last week sometime. I only noticed it was canceled because I went to check the order status and saw that they changed the price to $0.00. 
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Oct 11, 2011 19:03
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Best improvements to the series: Tire squeal is even more progressive than it was in previous games (where it was already fantastic), you can tell exactly how much more grip you have left. And weight transfer - You could always correct the back end with your right foot but at last you can really help correct the front end with your left. Rivals mode is automotive crack.
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Oct 12, 2011 19:21
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AlmightyPants posted:Maybe someone here can help me. I just got the Microsoft wheel. I am now terrible at everything. It feels like the cars don't have power steering in the cars. I'm spinning out constantly. I feel like a significantly worse driver. Is there some way to dial this back a bit or what? I'm quite disappointed as it stands. Well, assuming your wheel isn't broken, I'd say you should just spend more time with it until you're comfortable. You probably weren't an ace at using a controller the first time you picked one up, and changing to using 4 limbs for input instead of just 2 thumbs will take a little adjustment period (That is, if you are talking about the Microsoft Wireless Wheel, and not the Speed Wheel) When I first got the MS WW for PGR3, I also had the same "What the gently caress is wrong here" feeling for my first couple hours, but then it clicked and I haven't looked back. I wouldn't advise turning on assists because then you'll just learn how to drive for the assists, not how you'll drive the car in general. More practice, basically, and keep in mind that gentle and gradual inputs are the key with a wheel. Also, put an inch or so thick piece of dense foam rubber (think the consistency of a Nerf football) behind the brake pedal's pivot and you will immediately have a shedload more brake feel. Z3N - you will definitely enjoy driving games (Forza) more with the full Fanatec setup and it's worth every penny, but the MS Wireless Wheel is the best bang for the buck out there if you can find a good one. If you enjoy driving cars in real life, you will enjoy driving Forza with a Fanatec. Here's Inside Sim Racing's newest video, "A Buyer's guide to Forza 4 Wheels": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34ZXIqe8Psg&feature=feedu
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Oct 12, 2011 21:10
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Anyone else noticing that on some events you get 0 credits? Or is it just me? Happened 3 or 4 times so far in maybe 20 races in season mode.
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Oct 12, 2011 22:43
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Minimaul posted:It's a problem/glitch when using a wheel. There are some threads on the official forums, I'll see if I can dig 'em up. Interesting. Well, I'll just have to drive more laps of the Nurburgring then to make up for my lost $50k from those races! (And glad to hear it's not just me, should hopefully be fixable then.)
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Oct 12, 2011 22:50
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Minimaul posted:Some people are saying that switching from 900 to 270 is a work around for now. Cool, thanks for that. I never would have picked that thread title as the location for this info. (also, thanks Microsoft for making your sites the only sites in the world that don't work right in Firefox. Truly innovative.) I'm with Falken though - I'm not going down to Scum Class levels of rotation just for a few Forzabucks.  (I picked the Cosworth instead of the Lanshuh because it's awesomer but christ, 1/10th as valuable.)
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Oct 12, 2011 23:10
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So Best Buy charged me $8.44 to send me some terrible stupid Forza 4 fuzzy dice that I didn't want. Because they cancelled my LCE on launch day and had already shipped the dice, suddenly I'm responsible for the charges on the "Free" giveaway. gently caress best buy forever is what I'm saying. They also never sent me my 1M code.
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Oct 13, 2011 18:47
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BlazeKinser posted:Sure enough is. And yes, it still drives like an oil tanker with a broken rudder. Here, have a collossally large picture of Jim "Stig" Clark driving a Border Reivers Aston Martin.  
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Oct 13, 2011 20:32
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Cojawfee posted:Got my fanatec today, and it is ~AwEsOmE~. I can't drive anything above e class so far (losing control in a fiesta) but it's so amazing to drive this way. The control I have over the car, the shifting, the everything is so awesome. I'll still be controllering for racing online and the world tour for now, but I'm working on using the wheel. It's a long journey ahead of me. Find yourself a really solid C or D class car that you enjoy (vintage is best because you'll get more body roll/weight shift and more necessity to wring the car's power all the way out) and put in a few hours with the wheel driving vs AI's in the same car - it will help you figure out how weight transfer can be really used to your advantage with the pedals, and it will help you figure out how the physics engine will react to your various standard actions. Driving a D class Trueno around the 'Ring in Forza 2 taught me a lot about how the game reacts to wheel use, and I think at slower speeds you can better appreciate just how amazing the physics engine works in this game. Using the same car for the AI means the pack will be tight and you'll get a lot of practice making clean overtakes and safe cornering with your new input device, rather than using the car's superior power/handling to make all your moves. hreple posted:Any of you without the cash-income-problem when running a fanatec-wheel? I'm just curious about having to run this game in 210 degrees wheel-mode until a proper fix, or if it's just bad luck for some ... I had it happen on day one maybe 3 or 4 times in 20 races, then on the dashboard I turned the wheel down from 900 degrees to the lowest setting it had (I was looking for 'OFF' but maybe that disappeared in the latest firmware) and then moved it all the way back up to 900 degrees and re-loaded the game. I haven't had the no-credits thing happen to me once in the last 2 days, with some pretty heavy World Tour use last night. I don't know if my wheel settings fiddling had anything at all to do with it, but it hasn't re-occured. Basically you shouldn't worry about adjusting wheel settings to accomodate it because it seems to happen so rarely/randomly.
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Oct 14, 2011 18:50
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SirViver posted:Do any of you CSR owners have any suggestions regarding those? Car setups probably (hopefully) affect some of the FF too, so I definitely won't cast final judgement until I can try the full version. Fanatec's recommended Forza 4 settings are these: SEN: 900 (On some race cars down to 700) FF: 100 Sho: 100 ABS: 70 Dri:3 Lin: 0 Dea: 0 Spr: 0 Dpr: 0 Mine are a little different but similar, I'll post them up when I'm at home later.
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Oct 14, 2011 20:19
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Stumbled across this in an AI thread, thought it sounded kind of neat and might be of interest to the car folk around here. http://automationgame.com/ automationgame.com posted:In the upcoming game Automation you will be placed in control of a newly founded car company starting in the post-war era of 1946. You will be responsible for designing your cars from scratch - from the chassis and the engine to its body styling. Your goal is to meet the needs of different markets and various types of buyers. You will need to research new technology to keep ahead of your competitors and expand your company. It actually looks pretty impressively complex and more than just a spreadsheet micromanagement game. Would be awesome to see things like this in future Forza titles, too.
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Oct 14, 2011 23:37
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So yeah, about that credits/900 degree wheel glitch. It's a lot more annoying when it happens 4 straight times in Rivals mode, getting zero of four 100k+ bounties plus whatever race feats zeroed as well. Going to 270 didn't seem to fix it, and going back to 900 after trying that didn't either.
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Oct 15, 2011 03:53
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Day Man posted:When I have raced the AI cleanly, they give me plenty of room. I've actually been incredibly impressed with how realistic it is sometimes. When I start pushing them around, though, they don't hesitate to start using me as a brake. This is definitely true, and I'm starting to wonder if this isn't cumulative/transfers to online (private) races? In my career, I always restart a race if I push my way into a place unfairly vs the AI, and I do my utmost to avoid hitting their cars unless it's a racing incident. I was playing with some friends last night in their private race lobby, we had professional AI and that poo poo was like Burnout - the AI cars would just sideswipe/hipcheck you as you went by, with no regard for it being a racing move or trying to get on the line. Turns out this guy drives his career quite aggressively and uses the AI to brake his car through turns etc. all the time. Then we switched to my lobby, and the professional AI on the same track was just fast, they weren't noticeably aggressive. I suppose it could have been our imagination/confirmation bias once we had come up with the theory, but two or three people noticed it when we first started out and thought I'd turned the difficulty down because the AI cars suddenly became much more reasonable. They were still plenty quick and capable, but they seemed to stop doing random belligerent swerves as you went by minding your own business.
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Oct 15, 2011 18:43
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MUFFlNS posted:I can confirm that AI ramming being reactionary isn't true, since I race incredibly clean and I've had the AI mindlessly ram me a fair few times. It seems to be as the difficulty in the career increases more than anything, their aggressiveness gets toned up the more you win races. It's particularly bad on corners after long straights, such as the first corners of Catalunya and Indianapolis, the AI will just blindly ram you regardless of how clean and contact-free your driving is. What level are you at? I'm only level 34 and have lost one race in world tour so far, but have not had any issues with the AI in my career mode whatsoever unless I'm doing something unpredictable.
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Oct 15, 2011 19:34
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Jarf posted:I can't wait until the rush of people dies down a bit. The server load is painful. I can barely even check the leaderboards without having to fight my way through painfully long waits and server unavailable messages.
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Oct 17, 2011 20:15
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azerdude32 posted:For some reason I can't convince myself to pull the trigger on this game. I desperately want to drive the RS2 and Sport Quattro (as GT5 doesn't have them). Can someone attempt to convince me? Maybe post some more sweet F4 photos! If you like GT games, you'll like Forza games. If you enjoy sim-like video games with driving and racing, you'll absolutely love Forza because it's a shitload better at being an enjoyable sim-like video game with racing and driving than GT5 is. GT5 takes higher marks in the "5 minute long piano intro", "Six button presses when one would do", and "Haha holy poo poo is this Lotus on lubricated wooden tires or what the gently caress" departments, but Forza is hands down more fun as a gaming experience and the physics models in both are sim-enough to be high quality in the driving feel regard.
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Oct 17, 2011 21:33
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DrPain posted:how do you guys justify spending $500+ on peripherals?!!? I'm sure it must be real real awesome, but drat. That a lotta bux for one game. 1) Video game driving with a Fanatec 2) Buying a new car on credit 3) Having a baby One of these options costs $500 one time, two of them cost considerably more than that every month for the term of "Forever", or 36 months, whichever applies. Many will "own" a new car, many will have a bebeh, few will know the pride of owning a video game peripheral that costs as much as Samoa's annual GDP.
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Oct 17, 2011 23:54
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New use for Goonbus: 1 driver in Lotus Elise/Exige Everyone else in a Goonbus Hummer Oval track, simulation damage on, Lotus guy drives in the correct direction for the race, everyone else drives the other direction and attempts to murder him in the face on the straights. His evasiveness will cause Goonbussers to flip their own Hummers attempting to slay him, and be left as detritus/obstacles with sim damage on. If Lotus Guy can complete his (10 or whatever) laps before the Destruction Squad can kill his car (to the point he can't limp back to the pits without everyone gangbanging him endlessly) he wins, if he gives up from compete car ruination and hilarious ownage, then Destruction Squad wins.
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Oct 18, 2011 01:26
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Doctor Butts posted:How do you guys recommend upgrading cars? Mostly try and avoid upping cars more than a class or two, you'll get better results if you start off with a chassis/platform that's capable of handling the upgrades. Keep in mind that modern cars are almost always going to be better (since they start from a better place) than the classics. A 2011 V6 Camry will beat a 1986 Countach in a quarter mile, which is sad but true. Classics are still much more stylish and fun to drive. Secondly I almost never upgrade tires on anything lower than top-of-B class, the PI can be better used on power/weight upgrades for the lower cars. Fat tires also just add weight, and if you're only putting down 165 hp, you hardly need 345's in the back. Slow cars are all about maintaining momentum, so try and set up your transmission so you shift less often than you would in a faster car. I usually set up my slow cars so that 2nd and 3rd are essentially the same gearing but with longer reach in 3rd so I can trailbrake while keeping on the power, leaving it in 3rd with the revs high and power through the majority of corners from 40mph-100mph with no shift on the way out. All that up and down shifting loses time and kills your momentum. Thirdly when you do add power upgrades, pick the ones that also add lightness.
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Oct 19, 2011 21:32
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Bodacious Bagel posted:This is probably a dumb question but where can I find the amount of down force a car is producing? I can't seem to find it anywhere. If you go into tuning, and then RB your way all the way right to "Aero", it'll show you. You can only change it if you have the race aero added (or it's a race car to start with.)
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Oct 20, 2011 21:55
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Minimaul posted:Word from Fanetec on the no-credit issue with the wheels: Aha, that explains why it only happens to me on some tracks. What the hell cheating device is the game 'detecting' and stopping you benefitting from? A homemade Forzaplaying Robot or something? Cuz that's a lot easier to build than just being good at driving.
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Oct 21, 2011 18:36
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Smooth is fast.
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Oct 21, 2011 18:42
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Jarf posted:
I'm partial to the Aston myself, but worth every imaginary penny for sure. 
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Oct 26, 2011 03:09
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Ak Gara posted:I wish boardering for letters was easier, but this is as close as I can do for now. Things missing: hood pins, exhaust holes in the rear of the car, and that stupid bird decal on the rear quaters that I aint even gonna try.
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Oct 27, 2011 18:31
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I said come in! posted:The only thing I feel that GT5 does better is that Indy and Nurburgring are better in that game. When you say that you like the GT5 version of the 'Ring better, what about it gives it your nod? Aside from it being a little narrower than the Forza version and having more off-line bumps, I feel like as long as you're on "The Line", both drive almost identically, but if you're out of control the GT5 version probably does have more traps/trouble spots as a result of the extra bumps represented in the road surface. I've been going over this video for a while and I can't really find a whole lot of actual variance in the way the track works when driven correctly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmjR8r7fWfw& In my opinion GT5 seems to do a better job of visually transmitting the extra bumping and jostling that the car gets as a result of the lumpier version of the road in GT5, but if you're driving well I don't think that those extra bumps really have a lot of impact on the way you drive the track or make it feel any hairier than it does at a similar edge of control in Forza. Slower cars also seem to highlight the uneven surfaces a little better in Forza than do faster cars, the Zonda R is planted at all times on all tracks so I think it's not quite the ideal vehicle for that little comparison. When I'm just tooling around, I drive the 'Ring almost exclusively in driving games, and I didn't feel like there was much relearning necessary to drive the GT5 version last year, after a couple years of only doing Forza's and GTR2's. Basically my feeling is "If you're on the line, the tracks are nearly identical." And what kind of scrublord is off the line? There's only 170 corners to learn.  Obviously day-to-night cycle on the Nordschliefe is pretty amazing in GT5 and hopefully that can be added in for Forza 5 on the Xbox 720 in 2013. I also wish that Turn 10 would add in individual track stats, I'd love to see how many laps I've done in total on each track.
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Oct 28, 2011 21:49
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Do yourself a favor and skip the official MS headset which is horrible garbage, and get one of these (or similar): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00001W0EQ $20 and the speaker quality/mic volume is miles ahead of the MS units.
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Oct 29, 2011 02:16
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Brownie posted:Fanatec! Can't say I'm surprised about the standard pedals, they are really not up to the same level as the rest of the product. Clubsport! As for the shift paddle issue - contact Fanatec if you hadn't already; if it's something you can repair they will send you the parts and let you go to town, and if it's something that you can't fix yourself they will probably cross-ship you a whole new wheel. It will take them a couple days to reply, and they don't work on weekends. e-support@fanatec.com
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Oct 29, 2011 18:50
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T-Square posted:Anyone with a Fanatec wheel having problems with the ABS? I can't get mine to turn off-I have ABS off in-game, and ABS off on the wheel (also tried turning it down to the lowest setting besides off on the wheel) yet I can still mash the pedal and the wheels won't lock-up. Thoughts? The ABS settting on the wheel is just a threshold percentage for when you want the brake pedal in the clubsport pedals to rumble... e.g. 80 on the LED screen means that at 80% braking application, the brake pedal and wheel rim will shudder from your locking up the brakes. It's independent of the actual game/driving and is simply an external effect to help you judge when ABS is about to kick in. If you are having too little braking force, there is a knob on the clubsport pedals that you can turn to increase/decrease the sensitivity. I keep mine so that a full pressure depress/a panicbrake jab only give me about 75% total braking force in the in-game telemetry.
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Oct 31, 2011 23:50
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Apparently the popular xbox modding tool that allows you to futz with your profile/savegames on a thumbstick and then resigns the content so the Xboxen doesn't even notice it's tinkered with has allowed people to unlock any locked designs and then resell them and kill the economy.  
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Nov 1, 2011 23:37
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I said come in! posted:No way, long tracks are great and they didn't shove it into every race in the career mode, so that's not a bad thing either. Rally di Positano was a great track for C and D class cars and it sucks they took it out. Hope it comes back in DLC. I'm in year 5 of world tour and I have yet to race a full lap of the 'Ring or Fujimi in career mode, which annoys me. Oh good it's another 2 lap race of Tsukuba!
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Nov 2, 2011 18:32
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I said come in! posted:There isn't a full ring race from what i've seen on the event list. I'm 29% into the event list and i'm starting to get tired of it and doing tracks over and over again that I don't like. So i've moved onto multiplayer now and that is way more fun. Yeah, I've been doing singleplayer Multiplayer races for the majority of the last two games anyhow, it's freaking awesome how you can just set up exactly the race you want with exactly the conditions you want and still get XP/credits commensurate with your time invested/risks taken. At least 3 had some 'Ring specific racing in the event list though. It's just disappointing that they leave out The Greatest Racing Road (....in the World) in career mode because some S5 Leaderboard Bros don't like WASTING 8 whole minutes on a race!!!! The livery unlocking is really unfortunate because I know given how much time I've spent on my 200 layer basic liveries, I can only imagine how gutted people who've spent days/weeks on extremely impressive designs must feel, and it's dead easy to do and requires no skill at all to "hack" this flaw.
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Nov 2, 2011 18:56
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einTier posted:1958, 1960, 1961, and 1970 were the deadliest years of F1, with three drivers killed in each season and four in 1958. However, it's really the late 1960's and specifically the 1967 where people feel that things got especially dangerous. poo poo, F1 was still pretty insane until the mid 90's, Senna dying woke a lot of people up. In the mid 80's there were apparently absolutely no rules in regards to pit safety and you'll see lunatics changing tires while wearing shorts and t-shirts or running onto the starting grid as the lights go out to check someone's exploded engine, and half the courses were too old, too small for the cars, and in countries run by tinpot dictators so there were no funds for safety marshals so you burned to death if you didn't die outright running into the solid concrete wall 9 feet off the corner's apex. In one race in '82 or '83, Nigel Mansell reversed back into his pit station because he locked up the brakes and skidded past it.
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Nov 3, 2011 04:05
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I bought a new-to-me '92 NSX and painted it up: Such a well balanced car, doriftu is a piece of cake.  They even gave me a die-cast model of my new car. 
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Nov 3, 2011 20:10
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Cool idea, Hello Spaceman! Just for the record, imgur unpaid accounts compress those large shots and add some jpeg artifacting; abload.de does not compress them so I'd use that for hosting the bigshot images. Also I stumbled across some F1 review shows from the early 80's, definitely interesting to see the evolution of the sport from year to year, and compare the insanity of that era to the safety and restriction of the current.
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Nov 7, 2011 23:35
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In Forza 2 you could put the car in neutral if you downshifted to "0" and didn't press the gas or brake. Which meant your friends could push your stock '93 Civic DX to about 240 mph using other cars, to the great hilarity of attempting to make a turn in a stock '93 Civic DX at 240mph. Also meant you could do the trick and then roll down long hills in reverse, silently, enjoying the birds chirping.. Like this.
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Nov 9, 2011 01:07
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 21:45 |
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einTier posted:Oh poo poo, Google Books is the most amazing thing ever.  Mind, blown. Welp, sorry work, gonna be checking 0-60 times on Opel Kadetts from the mid 70's (a blistering 18.9 seconds), reading about build-it-yourself helicopters from 1964 and generally exploring all the other catastrophes in the making that the old Popular Mechanics mag was so fond of for the next 20 work days or so. And Popular Science goes back to the 1870's!
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Dec 1, 2011 00:51
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