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EDIT: Ignore this post, question was answered elsewhere. Thanks!
surf rock fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Oct 19, 2018 20:54
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I'm trying to figure out if I need to upgrade my router. I've got a [ur=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR3ZYIW/]NETGEAR AC1600 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (R6250)[/url]. I have gigabit internet starting on Tuesday, so I'm going to wait on making any purchases until then so I can do some real-world experimenting. However, I did upgrade my modem to this today to prepare for the internet, and I'm wondering whether I ought to upgrade by router while I'm at it. I stream high-res video on a daily basis, and this router needs to be strong enough to send a video streaming signal to a Roku streaming stick through two walls and a bunch of other nearby electronics. I also don't want my router to be a limiting factor in reaching the highest possible speeds with this new internet plan. However, my current router is marketed as a gigabit router, so maybe it's fine as-is? I haven't had any significant reliability issues with it over the past four years. Here are the three routers I've been looking at as a potential replacement: TP-Link AC1900 - Archer C9 - $90 TP-Link AC2300 - Archer C2300 - $140 Netgear (R7000P-100NAS) Nighthawk AC2300 - $180 The OP makes me think that all three of these are very solid routers. I'm guessing all three of them would be an upgrade on my existing router, but I find the Archer C2300 the most tempting. It doesn't seem to be missing any features compared to the Netgear router, but it does seem to have some tech like the MU-MIMO that will be relevant in a few years. Thoughts on whether I should ditch my current router and, if so, what I should go for here? Thanks for any advice!
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Oct 22, 2018 02:33
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Sorry, one last question for this thread. I think I've decided on the Netgear (R7000P-100NAS) Nighthawk AC2300 router. So, along with my new Docsis 3.1 modem, I should have the the external equipment to actually get most of my new gigabit internet connection. However, I'm concerned that my laptop itself is going to be the final weak link preventing me from getting at least half (500+ Mbps) of the speed I'm paying for. I've heard that both my processor and my wi-fi card could both be inhibitors, so here they are: Processor: Intel core i5-3230m @ 2.60ghz Wi-fi card: Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 I had honestly thought that if I just plugged in the ethernet cable directly, that I would be able to get close to max speeds because it would bypass the wi-fi card. However, when I connect it to the modem, I only get about 200 Mbps. That really surprised me, because Intel said that the wi-fi card could go up to 450 Mbps, so I thought that with a wired connection I would at least be getting close to that even if the wi-fi card is still somehow involved in the process. When I go into control panel > Network and internet > Network connections, it refers to the Local Area Connection (which I think is the ethernet port) as Intel(R) 82579LM Gigabit Network Connection. I don't know if that's the name of the kind of port it is, or whether that's the internal network adapter for a wired ethernet connection. If it's that, though, it seems like I should be in good shape for a gigabit wired connection with that name, right? Maybe my drivers are out-of-date? I have a Thinkpad T530; is there any workaround here other than just waiting until the next time I replace my computer? Would using this little USB ethernet adapter bypass my laptop's internals, or is that just adding an ethernet port (which it already has)? I might not even end up replacing my router if my computer is going to keep at or below 200 Mbps no matter what... Thank you all for any advice you can provide. I'm obviously a little confused about how all of this works. surf rock fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Oct 25, 2018 |
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Oct 25, 2018 03:01
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redeyes posted:Offhand I'd say the router can't max out the connection. Also you need a minimum of a SSD to be able to sustain anything close to gigabit downloads. I've got a good SSD, so I think I should be set there. Also, fascinating update: I decided to poke around on Intel's site after posting the above, and I found that they did have more recent drivers for the Intel(R) 82579LM Gigabit Network Connection than what I had. So, I downloaded those (I'm not sure I did so 100% successfully, since the driver date I have is still 2016, but hey, that's better than the 2013 it was before). I also ran Windows Update and restarted the computer. After doing that, I went over and connected the laptop to the modem directly again. This time, hallelujah, I got this:  So, I'm guessing that's my top speed in terms of what my laptop can handle. I'm still kind of curious whether that $25 USB dongle thing would make it even better, but if not, this is still loving awesome. When I tried directly connecting my ethernet to the router, I got barely more than the wireless speed from it. So, I agree that my router seems to be the weak point here. If anyone's curious, I've been checking my speeds at each step of this process. Here's what I've experienced: BASELINE (wireless) 20 ping 108 Mbps download 12 Mbps upload NEW MODEM, SAME INTERNET (wired) 18 ping 160 MBps download 42 Mbps upload NEW MODEM, SAME INTERNET (wireless) 18 ping 135 Mbps download 42 Mbps upload AFTER GIGABIT ENABLED (wired) 18 ping 653 Mbps download 43 Mbps upload AFTER GIGABIT ENABLED (wireless) 19 ping 176 Mbps download 40 Mbps upload
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Oct 25, 2018 04:17
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monsterzero posted:What happens if you plug your modem directly into the Ethernet port? If your router is doing stuff (SPI firewall, media sharing, QOS) that could be the weakest link while you're pulling down gigabit. When I plug my laptop directly into the modem, I get 600+ Mbps speeds. I just replaced my router with a new Netgear Nighthawk R7000P, and I have a direct wired connection from the router to my laptop, but I'm still only getting 250 Mbps. You mentioned a few settings on the router; I don't have any idea what those do. Are they important? If I turn them off, would I get closer to the speeds I get straight from the modem? It's weird to me that modem --> (wired connection) --> laptop = 600+ Mbps, but that modem --> (wired connection) --> router --> (wired connection) --> laptop = 250 Mbps. So, I agree it must be the router, and now that I've replaced the router with a top model, it seems like it must have to do with the router's settings. EDIT: One other thing I'm noticing is that when I go to my laptop's network section and I look at the wired connection, it's named after the 2.4 Ghz wi-fi signal rather than the 5 Ghz signal. I don't know if that means anything. surf rock fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Oct 28, 2018 |
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Oct 28, 2018 16:59
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KKKLIP ART posted:The name doesn't really matter, but you for sure want to be connected to the 5GHz if all your equipment supports it. Another thing to think about is make sure that your cables are all cat 5e or better, though 250mbps is still faster than a cat 3 or cat 5 would support. Did you recently purchase the Nighthawk (as in, is it still returnable)? Might be worth looking at the OP and getting a Edgerouter and Unifi AP, but there might be better options for you too. I've got cat 7 cables, so I should be good there. With the wired connection is there a way to switch it from connecting to the 2.4 to connecting to the 5? I wouldn't be able to return the Nighthawk.
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Oct 28, 2018 18:33
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monsterzero posted:Does it make any difference if you disable your laptop's wifi? Maybe it's being dumb and preferring wifi despite being on GigE. Good thought, but unfortunately that didn't make a difference, it seems like it is indeed prioritizing the wired ethernet.
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Oct 28, 2018 19:41
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CopperHound posted:If not this, I would guess hardware accelerated Nat was disabled. I'm not familiar with that specific router, but some can't both do QoS and hardware accelerated NAT. When I log on to the Netgear genie site, it shows Dynamic QoS as not being enabled. I haven't been able to find a setting yet that mentions hardware accelerated Nat. Or is this a browser thing? I looked at my Chrome settings and "Use hardware acceleration when available" isn't toggled on.
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Oct 28, 2018 19:53
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Splinter posted:Is the light for your wired connection on the R7000P orange or blue? If it's not blue it means it isn't connected at 1Gbps for whatever reason. Huh, all the LEDs are either white or orange. None of them are blue.
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Oct 28, 2018 20:58
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Splinter posted:Sorry meant orange or white. White on wired means gigabit. Oh, got it. Yeah, the connection to/from the modem and to/from my computer are both white lights.
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Oct 28, 2018 22:04
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I was reading through the OP, but I think I have kind of an odd situation and it doesn't seem to fit neatly into the existing buckets there. So, my dad's network sucks. He has this DOCSIS 2.0 modem from 2009 and this Netgear N600 router from 2010. Something is really hosed up with the router; if you visit most sites while connected to the wi-fi your browser will tell you that it doesn't have a security certificate or whatever and not let you access it. Here's the error screen that Chrome gives: Your connection is not private Attackers might be trying to steal your information from https://www.google.com (for example, passwords, messages, or credit cards). Learn more NET::ERR_CERT_AUTHORITY_INVALID Firefox and Edge don't work either. The reason I say it's the router's fault is because if you connect directly to the ethernet port on the modem, that error doesn't happen. However, the modem still sucks poo poo (and the modem + router are upstairs while my dad's computer is downstairs, so that fix is also irrelevant except when my brother and I visit because he doesn't want to move either the modem/router or the computer). So, I think I ought to replace both his modem and his router for Christmas. If I went off the Wirecutter recommendations, I think I would be overkilling it in terms of power and price. On the modem side, I tried checking the ISP (https://www.wowway.com/support/internet) to see if I could get a list of approved modems, but they're very vague about it. I did find this third-party website with a more specific list here (https://www.approvedmodems.com/wow.html). I think he's currently paying for 300 Mbps internet, but speedtest shows that we're getting something like 30 Mbps (and via Wi-Fi he's getting 10 Mbps). Let's say that my total budget here is $200-250 (I would also benefit from this set-up being better for the few weeks out of the year that I'm visiting, and I could maybe get my brother to split this gift with me). Does anyone have any recommendations that would make sense here? Thank you! surf rock fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 06:00
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Next week, I'm replacing my Xfinity gigabit internet with AT&T fiber gigabit internet. I know that the hook-up to the unit on the exterior of the house is going to be different, but how does the connection in the interior of the house work for fiber? I've currently got the modem/router in a central spot of the house that's super convenient for me, but if they have to run a new kind of cord for fiber than the wall connection I have now, I'm a little worried the tech is going to be like "no, I'm not crawling through your attic to run this wire to a specific interior wall."
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Mar 31, 2024 16:47
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 22:20 |
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That's all super helpful, thank you!
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Apr 1, 2024 13:35
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