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You're really not going to get much out of an 8 inch subwoofer. You're better off just getting a pair of $200 studio monitors and adding a 10-12" sub when you have the budget.
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Apr 19, 2014 16:43
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powderific posted:I dunno, I have a previous version of that sub and it definitely adds useful bottom end to my 5" bookshelf speakers. Enough that I've never felt the need to upgrade to something that reaches lower frequencies / higher spl. Those bookshelf speakers already have 6.5" woofers. For the budget he's talking about, it's better bang for the buck to get a better bookshelf speaker/amp setup. japtor posted:Speaking of which, Audioengine P4s are $200 on their refurb site. The P4s are nice, but they're passive, meaning he'll have to stretch his budget to fit an amp in there. If I was going to go that way, I'd look for a deal on the Klipsch KB-15s http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-KB-15-4-Inch-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00AS3X740/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397923306&sr=8-1&keywords=Klipsch+KB-15 KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 16:58
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powderific posted:That may be true, but the Dayton's -3db point is 77hz and my 5" bookshelf set is -3db at 60hz, so if it helps mine it'd probably make an even bigger difference with the Daytons. God, those Daytons really are crap. What you should REALLY do is stretch your budget by 50 bucks and buy one of these: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/M3-6?device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CIPk6O357L0CFYMcOgodSjgA-w Then, buy another on credit. Edit: Real suggestion. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AV40/ + http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...=item258cf869cc KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 17:21
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What receiver do you have? If you can hook up the A2 to your receiver, you can do the same with the A5+, since they're both active. That being said, you can generally get better passive speakers for the same price. KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 16:19
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It's not a matter of "frying" something. It's whether your receiver has the correct connections to even hook it up - which it doesn't. Like I said, buying an active speaker would be a waste of money, anyways. What are you using for a center? You generally want to match your center speakers and front speakers as closely as possible.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:39
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Yeah, the RF42 II is the best match for your centers, and should sound fantastic. And $500 is right on the money. http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RF-42...ywords=RF-42+II You could bump it up to the RF52 II's if you want better bass extension, but you'll pay a premium for it. KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 23:06
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The P4s will be fine. The rear speakers really don't matter much and you won't notice if they don't match. I think a 7.1 is overkill, too. As for the tower speakers, really what you gain with the RF52 over the RF42 is better extension as you get near the crossover point, meaning the transition between the sounds the subwoofer makes and the sounds the speakers make will be a smoother transition. Remember that if you set your crossover point to 80 hz, it doesn't mean it's an instant switchover. There's an overlap between the two, and the smoother that is, the better it will sound. That being said, the RF42's are excellent speakers, and will serve you very well.
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Jun 5, 2014 04:45
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KozmoNaut has a pair of ADAM A5X's for his PC. You might want to PM him.
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Jul 15, 2014 21:09
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Droid Washington posted:What is the current cheap PC speaker recommendation? My fiance has just gotten into computer games (oh god) and although we just put a computer together for her, we haven't jumped on any speakers yet. I'd say I'd be willing to spend up to $40. Something like this maybe? It's honestly going to be hard for us to give a recommendation under ~$100. At your price range, pretty much all the speakers are going to sound the same and have similar build quality. The ones you picked are probably just as good as any other. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Decius is right in that headphones are going to give a better bang for your buck. If you're willing to stretch (and don't feel you have to - quality speakers may just not be a priority for you), the Behringers above or the M-Audio AV 30's might be a good option for getting your toes wet. http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studi...s=M-audio+av-30 Just keep in mind that for gaming, most people prefer heavy bass. Neither of those are going to give you any of that (and neither will anything in your price point, TBH). Edit: Check Craigslist. What metro area are you in? I can take a look. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 19:38
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GokieKS posted:That's just semantics. The use of the term "passive preamp" is fairly widespread to describe a passive control unit, and it's what Schiit calls it. That's just what you tell yourself to feel better for buying a $50 potentiometer in a box.
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Sep 4, 2014 00:20
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GokieKS posted:I don't need to tell myself anything to feel better about buying it, as I was well aware of what it is when I bought it. And it's not that much more than, say, the Fostex PC-1 or any of the other products that are marketed as a "volume controller" instead of "passive preamp", a premium I was willing to pay for the dual RCA inputs and better design. I just called it that because it's what Schiit calls it. 
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Sep 4, 2014 00:35
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flyboi posted:So my stupid windows box hisses with the crappy onboard audio with my Asus motherboard. Same with using the pc monitor's output. Is there a decent sound card that isn't magical bullshit or full of crappy drivers that are poorly supported? I haven't looked at a sound card in like 10 years. Headphones or speakers? This will do both (stereo only): http://www.fiio.com.cn/products/index.aspx?ID=100000059783139&MenuID=105026003 http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409800369&sr=8-1&keywords=E10K
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Sep 4, 2014 04:13
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flyboi posted:Pair of Adam F5 with a sub plugged in via 3.5mm and crossover set between the two. A sound card may help, but a DAC will isolate better because it's further away from the noisy electronics on the motherboard. They also have the advantage of not needing any special drivers. If you don't need the headphone amp and have an optical out on your PC, you really can't beat this one for the price: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409801850&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d03k
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Sep 4, 2014 04:39
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japtor posted:A2s (or A2+s) don't have headphone jacks, but otherwise yeah they're plug and play. They both have minijack and RCA input (and come wit cables iirc), A2+ adds an integrated USB DAC (and RCA out for a sub or whatever else). Since the A2+s have RCA out, you can pair them up with a standalone headphone AMP. The Schiit Magni would probably go well with it. http://schiit.com/products/magni
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Sep 8, 2014 15:14
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I think you're right. A headphone amp with line out would probably make the most sense with the A2+s. But then you are getting into more money. The Fiio E09K has both line and preamp outs and costs the same price. As an added bonus, you can pair it up with an E07K or E17 for DAC duties.
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Sep 9, 2014 23:30
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Josh Lyman posted:HDMI and optical are both digital connections so no, there won't be a difference. The only major audio difference is that SPDIF doesn't support Dolby formats, only PCM. HDMI supports both. The real reason you would want HDMI is for easy switching between components. If it's only your PC on this, it doesn't matter.
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Dec 16, 2014 20:07
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program666 posted:Even if I don't know a lot about audio technically, I do want good quality speakers because I listen to a LOT of music and I wanted good audio while playing games. I've been through these experiences where you listen to new sounds in music you listened to your whole life too and I don't want to miss anything if possible. I know about the headphone thing but I don't like using headphones unless it's necessary. Go ask in the home theater audio thread, but it's going to depend heavily on your budget. Read the OP. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384469&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 This might be a good place to start, though: http://audioengineusa.com/Store/A2-plus-W-Powered-Desktop-Speakers KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 17:54
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TXT BOOTY7 2 47474 posted:I'm looking for a 5.1 computer speaker setup in like the $200-300 range (i guess i could go a BIT higher, but...) Why do you want 5.1? Your options in 5.1 are going to be very limited compared to a 2.0 or 2.1 setup. Also, $200-300 is in the price range of a good subwoofer... alone. What are you using this for besides video games? What does the room look like? Are you sitting in your computer chair or is this hooked up to a TV where you're using it from the couch? Edit: Since I don't want to leave you totally without things to think about, here's one way you can get started if 5.1 is your ultimate goal: - Wait for a PSW10 to go on sale for <$100. - Get a cheap 5.1 receiver refurbished. This one should do. - Buy a pair of decent speakers on Craigslist for ~$70. Or spend a little more and get these, if you don't want to deal with Craigslist. - Buy some cheap cables, if you need them. - Wait a year and buy your other 3 speakers. If 2.1 is acceptable (unless you're watching movies on your computer, it really should be), then buy the following: - Audioengine A2+ speakers - The aforementioned PSW10 subwoofer KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Feb 2, 2015 |
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Feb 2, 2015 19:12
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qirex posted:Are those Pioneer speakers really that much better than anything else in the same range like these or Daytons or low-end Polk, JBL, Infinity? I'm suspicious they're just one of those things the internet hype machine boosted for no good reason. Also they're so ugly to me I'd prefer a plain black box. I haven't heard them in person, but people generally only have good things to say about them.
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Feb 2, 2015 20:11
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qirex posted:I'd imagine that for a large number of buyers these are the first real speakers they've ever owned so they're naturally going to gush about them. I know the "medium driver in bigass box" model works, there's much more expensive spears doing the same kind of thing. I'm just naturally suspicious of anything that becomes Goon Approved cult status. They're probably not the best speakers out there at that price point, but they're relatively inexpensive, inoffensive looking, widely available and (supposedly) more than good enough for most home theater setups. I imagine that's a big part of it.
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Feb 2, 2015 21:02
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the nicker posted:The D1 works like that. Pricey though. Never used the Fiio myself but I'd be really, really surprised if plugging in headphones didnt mute the line out. I have an E09k, and the line out is active regardless of whether headphones are plugged in or not.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:05
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KozmoNaut posted:For that cheap, I don't think you can go wrong with the Logitech set. Just don't expect anything mindblowing, quality-wise Honestly, I'd check Craigslist before pulling the trigger on that. If you can stretch your budget a little bit, you can probably find a decent pair of passive speakers for <$50 and an old stereo amp (or cheap Chinese T-amp) for another 25 or so. KillHour fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 10, 2015 22:31
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signalnoise posted:I currently use a mini amp and two bookshelf speakers for my audio setup, and my problem right now is that if I want to run them at low volume, there's a hissing and it starts to only drive the left speaker. What should I look for in good sound at low volume that isn't headphones? What amp and speakers? Fake edit: Have you tried doing curls with your speakers? 
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Apr 17, 2015 00:05
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signalnoise posted:Hah It's probably because that amp is a piece of crap. I have the same one in a box somewhere. http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/home-audio-video/audio-amplifiers/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc.html ?
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Apr 17, 2015 00:34
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Quote != Edit 
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Apr 17, 2015 00:34
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Dislike button posted:I got a pair of Energy 3.1e speakers for cheap. What do I need to do to hook them up to my PC? Currently just have onboard sound and I don't even have speaker cable so guidance on whatever is needed would be much appreciated. You need an amp. How loud do you want to go?
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Jul 1, 2015 01:12
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Dislike button posted:I mean I don't need to shake the house off the foundation or anything but no wimpy poo poo either. I use one of these for my PC setup. http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W It gets loud.
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Jul 1, 2015 01:49
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Get on craigslist and find a stereo (not 5.1 or surround or anything like that) receiver from basically any era. You can use that same cable you described to run your computer through the Aux in or really any line-level input like CD/Video/etc (so not the phono one). This is true. Never be afraid of Craigslist finds - audio equipment is good for a LONG time. I just recommended that receiver because I happen to have it and I know it cranks loud on my similarly-rated speakers (6 ohm, 86dB sensitivity). Then again, I got it on Black Friday for ~$150. KillHour fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 03:01
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Dislike button posted:Also wondering this as things like this https://charlotte.craigslist.org/ele/5058510008.html seem to be more available The specs I'm seeing for that receiver say 12 watts per channel. It's not going to be very loud.
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Jul 1, 2015 15:50
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KozmoNaut posted:That's definitely not true. It was a $1100 receiver when it was new, and Pioneer says it's 100WPC in stereo or 90WPC in surround mode. I quoted the wrong link. I meant the JVC. The Pioneer is fine, but a little overkill. Still overkill, but the price is right. KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 16:30
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Josh Lyman posted:Why is receiver + bookshelf speakers generally recommended over a 2.1 system in the $100-150 range? Because most computer speakers are cheap poo poo. There are exceptions (which cost >$150), but it's generally the case.
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Jul 18, 2015 02:19
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M-Audio makes some decent looking ones. http://www.m-audio.com/products/view/m3-8#.VcujxPlVhBc And of course, Audioengine is pretty much the gold standard for clean looking powered speakers (albeit, not really studio monitors). http://audioengineusa.com/ Then again, you probably won't find either in a real studio. Edit: A lot of Behringer monitors look decent, if you can swallow your pride. Especially the Nekkst series. http://www.behringer.com/EN/Category/Loudspeaker-Systems.aspx?s=K200 Double edit: Oh hey, these are new: https://www.aperionaudio.com/speakers/speakers-by-series/allaire/allaire-bluetooth The sub out is nice, and they even have a remote control. No USB DAC (bluetooth, optical, or analog only); but other than that, they would probably make good desktop speakers. KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 20:53
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Electric Bugaloo posted:http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441671507&sr=8-2&keywords=fiio+d03k You don't actually NEED a DAC to use those speakers. The only reason I can think of why you might want one is because those speakers only have balanced inputs. But then again, neither of those DACs have balanced outputs. You'd want something like this to go balanced all the way: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA Unlike those other DACs, this also gives you a convenient volume knob and a pair of inputs for whatever. But again, it's totally unnecessary. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068OEO/ref=twister_B00CJ3ABVO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Sep 8, 2015 04:46
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KozmoNaut posted:I agree 100%, and luckily the Fostex PC-1 is hella inexpensive, especially considering how drat good the knob feel is. I'm actually considering picking that up because it's available with XLR connectors, meaning I can stick it after the graphic equalizer but before the crossover in the signal chain without loving around with a million adapter cables (Okay, it's 4 cables. I'm lazy; sue me.)
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Sep 8, 2015 10:17
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Djarum posted:I have a Maximus VII Hero and a Scarlett 2i4 and the difference between the Hero's onboard audio and the Scarlett is night at day, especially with good speakers/headphones. Even with my crappy Logitech computer speakers I had before I got my Mackie MR6s it was a noticeable difference. I would challenge you to ABX them because what you're saying is extremely unlikely to be anything more than placebo.
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Sep 8, 2015 20:14
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Computers are noisy beasts inside, I'd not be shocked if the cheapest USB sound card is worlds above the best onboard motherboard sound money can buy. Any decent motherboard has shielded audio components now. My Behringer equalizer introduces more noise in the signal chain than my onboard audio (or at least it did until the onboard audio poo poo the bed).
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Sep 8, 2015 20:24
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Djarum posted:I have done it, and with other people. For onboard audio the Hero is fine for average computer users with some 2.1 Logitech speakers or some garbage gaming headset. But the sound quality out of the Scarlett is just a lot better. As a added plus it just works in OSX and Linux so when I boot into them I don't have to deal with getting my onboard audio working at all. I will say it is probably the best piece of hardware I have bought recently. I'm having a hard time figuring out what you mean by "sound quality." Are you talking about a lower noise floor (less hiss) or what? Describe the difference it makes.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:23
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Galaspar posted:I have have an ageing but usable set of Logitech 5.1 speakers which connect through 3 separate audio cables. The new PC I'm buying only has a single audio-out socket, although it supposedly supports 5.1 audio. Is there some kind of adapter that would work, or am I best adding a good-value soundcard with multiple audio-out holes (like, say, an Asus DG)? It likely supports 5.1 via a digital output such as toslink or hdmi. Something like this would do if there's an SPDIF output on the motherboard: http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO/
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Oct 18, 2015 19:03
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Djarum posted:It was. That could, at best, send independent mono channels to the three outputs. 5.1 requires 3 stereo outputs (6 total channels). You would need 2 of those to get 5.1 at a minimum.
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Oct 19, 2015 02:10
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KozmoNaut posted:There's also the issue that affects all horizontally-placed speakers, namely that the individual speaker drivers are no longer on a vertical line and thus not equally distanced to your ears. This can muddy up the stereo image somewhat, by making the individual instruments etc. not stand out as well as distinct sources in the sound space. Audiophiles care a lot about this. It's worse with common home theater center speakers, where designs with two identical woofers placed relatively far apart cause all kinds of weird comb filtering effects. It's not nearly as bad with a two-way speaker, but it's still there in the crossover band between the woofer and tweeter. Is this still a problem if one of the woofers is a passive radiator? It seems like it would matter less, given that they're out of phase.
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Nov 24, 2015 21:08
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