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A few months ago I got two Painted Agamas, they were really small when I got them, probably only a few months old. I am currently feeding them mostly mealworms as well as mixed organic baby lettuces (without the spinach), even though they don't seem to really care much for the greens. I am a bit concerned, however. One of them has hardly grown at all in the months that I've had them, while the other seems to be growing normally. I know I feed them more than enough mealworms, I have a mealworm bowl so few escape and I always make sure there's enough for the both of them. I powder their food every other day or so, they have a UV light and temperatures seem fine. They also have branches in their tank so that they can adjust their temperatures as much or as little as they need. I feel like if something was wrong with their husbandry, they would both be having growth problems. I also have monitored them closely, and I have not seen any signs of aggression toward each other, in fact a lot of the times they sit close to one another as they rest. . . Do any of you have any ideas as to why there are growth problems with just one of them?
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Jan 9, 2014 01:17
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I don't have a thermometer in the tank, since I don't like how the few analog ones I've had have been wrong, I just use a temperature gun I have. I also have a probe, but I accidentally left both at my mother's house when I moved and I keep forgetting to grab it. I have the cage set up the same way since the times I used to take their cage temperature and the warm side is usually around 95F, the cold side around 80F. On the warm side on top of their logs, I imagine it gets pretty warm so they can get any belly heat they need without it being so hot that they burn themselves. I can run by my mom's tomorrow specifically for those to check temps again. I had no idea they could get impaction from mealworms, and I will immediately stop tomorrow to pick up some crickets and dubias. Would taking them out and putting them in a separate container to eat help? Maybe covering the container so they aren't stressed? If that's not an option, I get paid in a few days and can afford to get an extra tank and supplies, which I will do. The last thing I want is to accidentally harm or kill one of them. I got these because I had heard their care is fairly easy, like a bearded dragon and wanted to start from the bottom. This is a learning experience, and I want to avoid putting one in a reptile shelter just because I might need to house them separately (which I knew when I purchased them might have to happen).
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Jan 9, 2014 03:32
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Noted. I can call my herp vet tomorrow and see how much getting one of those done would cost. I really appreciate the help. Does this mean they will both have problems, and do vets usually charge per sample?
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Jan 9, 2014 04:38
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I really appreciate the help I got. I've decided I will be getting a fecal test done for both of them to be on the safe side, and I will be getting a second set up so I can separate them. When I get the items and extra tank I will also get some crickets and some dubias so I can also rule out any impaction problems that could be causing the smaller one's lack of growth. If anyone has some extra suggestions, I will be monitoring the thread. Thanks again!
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Jan 10, 2014 05:38
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I actually have another question in regards to splitting them up. Can I put the tanks next to each other or will the smaller agama, if being afraid of the other lizard is the reason she's gone off food, still be afraid to eat if the larger one is in sight? Should I put something between the tanks so they can't see each other? @Captain Foxy: Also, you have some gorgeous cresteds. I would like to get some (though not until I know my current lizards are happy and healthy). How hard are they to take care of, and what sort of energy/ personalities do they have? Are they able to be handled, or do they stress? MrConfusedTurkey fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 18:45
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wisdomHNOX posted:A buddy of mine just got a panther chameleon. Little guy is 3 months old and is really adorable. I was thinking about getting one myself in a few months but I was wondering about how good they are with handling? The breeder he went through said it was largely based on socializing them when they are young but many sources I'm finding online say that they don't do well with daily handling regardless of how well socialized they are. Is there a chameleon expert in this thread that could chime in and give me their. Perspective on this? I'm not a chameleon expert, but I do know that the reason that they don't do well with handling is because they stress out easily. They're mostly a pet for looking at, just because they don't jump doesn't mean they should be held except for maybe in "small doses". It is recommended that when you first get one you don't interact outside of feeding, misting, etc until he has time to adjust to his environment. Not all chameleons are the same, some will never want to be touched, others may eventually be comfortable enough to actually come to you on their own terms. You should also know that chameleons are not for first time lizard owners because, as I said before, they stress easily, and not just from being held. If temperatures go off, humidity goes off, they don't get enough food, they stress, a lot of times to death. This is just what I know about them, however, and hopefully someone corrects me if I'm wrong on any of this. @Foxy: Thank you! I really enjoy cresties, I love the way they look, they're easily one of my favorite lizard species. I'll take a look at that caresheet, maybe some months from now I can get my own.
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Jan 13, 2014 06:02
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I have a quick question about my ball python. She's in a 40G breeder tank at the moment. For now her length is still about a foot or so less than the length of he tank so I assume she's fine, especially since I take her out and let her roam while I watch her for about an hour a day (she always goes to the same box under my bed to chill) so she can stretch out for a bit. My question is what size tank/custom built enclosure should I need when she is her full size? I'm willing to build something quite large for her if necessary.
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Feb 17, 2014 18:44
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WTF BEES posted:
It took me a moment to notice his face in the corner and then I laughed. The tank setup is nice, also. Haha he seems so pleased to see you?
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Feb 20, 2014 08:24
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Dreqqus posted:Quick question: At that show this past weekend I also got two ball pythons(this is addictive and I couldn't help it). They're babies and I have them set up in 15 qt sterilite tubs, with UTH and thermostat. My temperatures are showing in the around 87-90 on the hot side and 80 on the cool side, sometimes dropping into the upper 70s at night. My question is this: One of them, the male has settled in really well, I see him occasionally switching from warm to cool side, but other than that hes hidden and out of sight. The female on the other hand is out and jamming around all the time, the temps are set the same and she has hides on the warm and cool end. Shes just constantly out and in motion testing the edges of the tub and rooting around in the substrate(aspen). To complicate matters a bit, she wouldn't eat when the other two(ball and hoggie) did on Tuesday. Should I be concerned or just chalk it up to 'active snake' and leave things be for now? As Foxy told me, Balls are pretty much completely motionless when they're content. I know that mine tends to get restless when she's hungry, but other than that she's fine. What is their humidity at?
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Feb 21, 2014 22:17
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Silver Nitrate posted:Is there anything I am forgetting? That's a very nice king setup. I am concerned about the analog temp meter, they tend to be very unreliable. I recommend you get either a cheaper temperature gun or a temperature probe as well, just to be on the safe side. ZarathustraFollower posted:We have been trying to soak the snake for several hours at a time over the past few days, but this is just so stuck. The snake is a 30 year old black rat snake. Any ideas How have you been soaking her exactly? MrConfusedTurkey fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 00:13
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Speaking of ball pythons, I'm considering switching from a bark/coco mixed substrate to an aspen substrate, because I hate how dirty she gets after soaking in her water dish, which means less handling time while she happens to not be resting (and I love taking her out for just a bit each day before I let her do her snake stuff again). I know of a lot of people that use it, but my concern is how easy it is (or isn't) to make sure her humidity levels are good. I have her in a 40g breeder with an uncovered screen top lid with a lamp heating from above. If needed I can create a moist hide and get a bigger water dish (like a cat box or something) if necessary, although she already has the largest corner dish I could find.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:18
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What a big boy. I love hearing them huff and puff when you pick them up at that size.
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Mar 8, 2014 03:13
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So I have a few questions about Chinese Water Dragons. We have one at work right now, and we will be adopting him out because his tail got crushed under something and part of it fell off because of that. He is doing fine, we took him to our vet and he doesn't even require any medications, but I'm nervous about adopting him out. I feel like because he will be hardly any money to get, people will rush in to buy him without knowing what they are doing. I feel the need to be able to educate a person properly about them, but that's hard when I don't know MUCH about them. I'm mostly curious about what kind of set up they would require. I get the feeling that, since they are semi-arboreal a tank would be an awful home for them, but those open-air vivs seem like they would also be bad, since their claws get long and it seems liek they could shred it/ruin the wiring. Is the only viable option a custom-built cage? If so, what kind of seal could you use on the wood that isn't toxic to them, but to prevent the wood from rotting since they require lots of humidity? Are there any other substrate options outside of a terrarium liner that won't cause eye problems? What sort of UV lighting is best for them, since a lot of the time they tend to try and hide away from the UV? I think that might be it for now. I don't plan on getting him, as I doubt I have the room for one since I will be getting my rabbit a larger cage. This is strictly just me wanting to make sure nobody is going to get him just because he's for adoption, and if they are, making sure he goes to a proper home.
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Apr 11, 2014 19:20
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Kilersquirrel posted:Just use driftwood in the tank, it's not really going to rot anytime soon. It's not so much what's in the tank that I am worried about. My major concern is, if someone were to make a custom tank itself out of wood, how would you seal it so the sides of the cage won't rot? Outside of this, I really appreciate all of the info. I would actually like to one day invest and make space for one, but until then I would just like to get this guy into a really good/suitable home.
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Apr 12, 2014 01:19
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I know UVB isn't required for snakes, but are there any exceptions? Or rather, are there any snakes that DO require UVB lighting?
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Apr 29, 2014 06:59
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What about common beginner snakes such as kings and corns? Are they known to become brighter and more active with UVB? I know that with my king, I used to have him with a UVB light. He was my first snake so I did not know they didn't require it, and a few months back I learned this. I turned it off, and he seems to be just as active. Could it also just depend on the snake?
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Apr 29, 2014 19:51
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So I have been reading through the thread, and I read that the compact UVB bulbs are actually awful for them. I want to get a hood with a 24" bulb for my painted agamas, would a 10.0 be okay for them? I will be putting it across both tanks, so they will each be getting about 5-6" of UVB light over their ten gallons(They're both really young still). Lllreptiles has them for cheap, but I want to make sure I'm getting the right items. Here are links to the hood and bulb in question: http://www.lllreptile.com/store/cat...uorescent-bulb/ http://www.lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/light-fixtures/-/24-fluorescent-hood-fixture/ Edit: Also, how saturated is the Ball Python market? Would it even be worth trying to breed and sell balls or would a beginning breeder just end up with a bunch of balls that won't sell ever? What about for common colubrids like corns, kings and milks? MrConfusedTurkey fucked around with this message at 23:45 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 20:19
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That's good to know. Honestly my heart belongs moreso to colubrids, I would LOVE to do kings and corns. Those beauty snakes are gorgeous as well! I am nowhere near being prepared to take on the task, but maybe in a few years I will get started, it is seriously something I am willing to undertake. I want to make sure I understand genetics more especially, and the incubation processes for each species I am interested in. If anyone knows of any exceptionally good books or internet resources on breeding and genetics for colubrids I will definitely look into it. I also want to say thanks to those of whom that have helped me with my agamas. The one that was really tiny looks like she is beginning to grow again. When I get the chance I will be taking them both to the vet to make sure that they are parasite free, since I am positive they were wild caught and I think it's still a problem, despite the fact the smaller one has begun gaining weight (I have been gutloading waxworms and crickets). I have a few more questions (surprise). I keep finding conflicting information on their diets. Some say they should have vegetables, others say they are strictly insectivores. I have been feeding both to be on the safe side, but which is true? And is gutloading their insects with Fluker's calcium fortified cricket water and food enough with vitamin drops once a week enough or should I try dusting again? Last few times I tried they wouldn't go after dusted crickets. MrConfusedTurkey fucked around with this message at 03:41 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 03:35
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Jekub posted:I'll try and grab some pictures tomorrow, the only question I have at the moment is the light which is a red bulb, does it need to be? Could I replace that with a white light as it's only on during the day? I use a red bulb for mine, as they are nocturnal and during the day they hide in burrows in the wild. They aren't bothered by red lights and can hardly see them, so it's safe to assume red bulbs actually reduce anxiety and help keep the animal more comfortable/secure. If you can, it's actually recommended you use an under tank heater as belly heat is more preferred and it won't dry the tank out as fast. Only get a UTH if you can also get the thermostat/controller however, or they can be more dangerous than helpful (burns). Obviously stick with the overhead bulb if you're like me and have the dumb tank on your carpet until you can get a stand. Silver Nitrate posted:Because Rolo is just a baby, the 10 gallon will be okay for her for right now, correct? Do I need to do any fancy cleaning when I switch them around or should they be alright just to swap tanks? A ten gallon would be fine, and I would recommend changing the bedding/disinfecting. It's not so much a matter of health, as much as it will be stressful. Kingsnakes are not afraid of eating other snakes, and smelling a different snake in their tank, especially for the younger one, could cause this stress because other predators = danger. Health-wise, you don't know if he might have by chance gotten into something. As far as his feisty behavior, let him settle in for three days as if you had just received him before you handle him again. He had to live based on instincts for a while again, which is most likely the reason for the bitey behavior.
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May 6, 2014 20:57
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Goons, I would like some advice. I am very aware of the rate of Iguanas being given up (especially green), and they have always been a reptile that awes me like crazy. I currently do not have the room, so I am not considering one at this time, however I would eventually really like to spend a good deal of time into building a proper cage for and raising one (or two). My main question is, I want to help with the big problem of them being given up, and I am rather good at taking care of reptiles, but do I start with buying a very young one and learning to care for them that way (and eventually adopting a second later), or go into adopting one that is rather feisty but still younger? I know a lot of it depends on what is available in my area, and I don't think I could tame down an adult very angry lizard, but I'm not sure which route to take, I am hoping I could possibly find one that is still very young and adoptable. I bought a handbook today, so I will be reading up a lot on their care, especially their dietary needs. I know they are definitely not cheap or beginner reptiles. What would you guys suggest? Do any of you have experience with owning them or working these guys?
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Jul 10, 2014 03:00
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Definitely looks like a Tegu to me.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:39
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RealDeadTom posted:Seeking some advice, my girlfriend's 2-3 year old king snake hasn't ate for 3 weeks now. She feeds him small size frozen mice every week usually. I don't know that breed, but my old ball python only ate every 3 weeks and that worked for her. Much appreciate help on this. It's odd for kings to go off feeding, although when it does happen, it is usually caused from husbandry problems. What are the temps (cool and warm side) and humidity at? Is he having problems shedding, or stuck on eye caps by chance? About how long is he, and how long is the terrarium? Sometimes having too large of an enclosure can cause stress. If all environmental conditions are correct, it could be a sign of illness, especially since kings are notorious for being great eaters.
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Aug 21, 2014 19:27
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Action Yak Police posted:To clarify, my question isn't about the cat food itself but the cheese in it. I'm worried that it might have too much fat/cholesterol for a turtle, but if it's okay for a cat to eat it, maybe that isn't the case? I'm no turtle expert, but they aren't mammals, and are not built for properly digesting dairy. Honestly, I would just stick to the usual box turtle diets with fresh foods. If you're worried about diet variation as far as meats go, box turtles will eat crickets, mealworms, wax worms, supers, and even angler and earthworms. They can even eat snails and grasshoppers/locusts. Some can't be found in stores, but all are readily available online. If you're experiencing feeding problems, canned cat food can get them out of it, but really isn't a great choice, especially the crap cat foods like fancy feast. Edit: The more I read, I have actually found a few sites that state the amount of protein and fat in it can deform their shells. Stick to maybe a bite-sized bit as a treat maybe once a month (if you really want to), or if he goes off feeding. Otherwise, definitely avoid it. MrConfusedTurkey fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Sep 7, 2014 |
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Sep 7, 2014 07:59
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Oh god, they are way too cute. Look at those snoots.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:04
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Muppets: That pair is so awesome looking, just look at those dumb, cute faces, ahhh
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Dec 8, 2014 21:37
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Cowslips Warren posted:Fuuuck. Week old bumblebee ball died this morning. That's two from one clutch already. drat. That's really lovely. My condolences. How many do you left, are they all seeming to do well?
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Dec 12, 2014 22:48
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