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mewse
May 2, 2006

Zigmidge posted:

Those are perfect ideas, thanks. I also saw someone elsewhere mentioned applying a very thin film of the black silicon adhesive you're already using.

Real pros use bright red silicone :v:

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mewse
May 2, 2006

TheFluff posted:

People keep saying this is a thing to do, but I honestly don't understand why they do it except as a way to get a bigger number. There's a ton of completely ordinary applications that will use AVX these days, so you won't actually get the faster clock except in certain applications. You also have to you out of your way to test two different configurations for stability and you can't set different voltages for them.

Heat

mewse
May 2, 2006

1gnoirents posted:

But regardless, I went for 5.0 ghz right off the bat at 1.29 vcore because thats just the vcore I ran my 6700k at and ... its still stable.

What motherboard?

I had a stable OC of 4.9 on my 8700k that I seem to have lost because of updating BIOS to fix meltdown/spectre, I'm going to have to redo the whole thing :(

mewse
May 2, 2006

MREBoy posted:

Is there such a thing as a big sheet of fan filter material I can buy & cut up as needed ? I have an old school Coolermaster Stacker 830 case and all the front bay blank plates have a grill that holds a small bit of filter material. The problem is the material is poo poo because the edges are not "sealed" and the stuff literally starts coming apart if I brush it/aircan it too hard. Picture to illustrate:



The unraveling should be noticeable around all four edges. The material is 1 3/8 inches by 5 3/4 inches by guessing 1/10th of a mm in thickness (slightly thicker than a piece of paper) in size, have 7 to replace. Something I could wash in a sink would be a plus.

Search amazon for fan mesh

mewse
May 2, 2006

GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:

Off topic, but I just want to rage in the OC thread about how crap my 6600K is at clocking.

Please carry on.

Could be lovely VRM on your mobo, that’s what I was getting with asrock z370 pro4

mewse
May 2, 2006

jonathan posted:

Question:

Previously I talked about how I delidded my 7600k and when reinstalling the CPU, I bent 2 pins in the motherboard. It still worked except it rendered 2 dimm slots unusable and the CPU would instantly peg at 99c during any sort of CPU load test.

Ok so I swapped out the motherboard for an Asus Rog z270 mini itx. The CPU is still behaving the same way, except now it instantly shoots to 80c, not 99c. This is at 4.8ghz.

While I have no issue with 80c, it's odd that it instantly spikes. Should it not gradually ramp up ? I've re-delidded a few times, double checked the paste, and used a thin layer of bonding material to stick down the IHS so there shouldn't be any air gaps.

The cooler is a DeepCool Captain 240mm AIO water cooler. Idle temps are around 27c.

What paste are you using between die and IHS? Delidding doesn't seem worth it unless you are willing to apply some type of liquid metal.

You say you used a thin layer of sealant to reapply the IHS, did you remove all the old crud? And when you say it's air tight, it's supposed to have an air gap - not be completely sealed.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Craptacular! posted:

Aww man, that’s the case I want. :smith:

I have one, it's fine without that mod

mewse
May 2, 2006

craig588 posted:

I'd be a bit wary of a used AIO. They're probably the most likely thing in a PC to break and failure could be catastrophic. If it's from someone you trust that's a different story, but some random guy? ehhhh

Edit: I'm so paranoid about being a guy known for passing off bad old hardware I give it all away. Not my fault if it breaks in 2 hours, worked fine here and it was free. I haven't had anything crazy break, but I have that paranoia.

Agree with this because AiOs can age really badly with the moving parts and the fluid. The pump might be hosed, the coolant might be sludge, it could have 6 months of useful life left

mewse
May 2, 2006

ufarn posted:

What's the deal with AF140 (Quiet Edition)? Some seem to swear by it while others report a really weird noise profile at various RPMs. Do Corsair have a really weird QA issues, or what's going on?

I thought going by recommendations was hard, but even more so with fans.

The new hotness is ML140 and they're desperately trying to pretend they didn't push the airflow/static pressure dichotomy for case fans

mewse
May 2, 2006

cat doter posted:

Anyway the idle temps improved a whole lot, like 20c in some cases, which is cool and all, but the load temps are identical? I gather this is the limitation of the crappy TIM they started using on these intel CPUs? I'm just confused since I got a pretty remarkable idle improvement but I can't get these load temps down at all. I was hoping I could get the temps down since it got to 4.5ghz stable without increasing the voltage at all.

Delid?

mewse
May 2, 2006

cat doter posted:

Haha, if only I had a printer on hand. If I can't afford a new CPU/RAM/motherboard I certainly can't afford one of those.

I figured delidding was the only solution, which is a bummer. I've seen one of those derbauer delidding tools but here in australia they're like $50. 4.5ghz will have to do I think, it's not like that's a bad overclock.

There's a site called 3dhubs where you can find people doing 3d printing services locally. The tool can be printed out of PLA plastic which is the easiest for 3d printing, recommended 40% infill. Should be significantly cheaper than $50.

mewse
May 2, 2006

ufarn posted:

Makes sense. The automatic RPM scaling seems quite good at the very least.

Is there a go-to for custom fans on graphics cards when I go get my 1180 one day? I'm probably going with Palit's since their AIBs have great defaults. I only ever thought of watercooling for customized GPU cooling, but third-party fan cooling might be worth checking out later.

Check some youtube reviews for arctic cooling accelero

mewse
May 2, 2006

Falcon2001 posted:

Yeah, I put this fan config together like 2 years ago and I cannot figure out why I did it this way other than aiming for positive pressure.

I can probably just get the 140mm fans and run them at a lower speed for generally quieter performance, I assume it'll be better than leaving it as-is.

If I were to move the configuration around, which of the two setups would be better:

Radiator on top, 3x 120mm on top and back as exhaust, 2x 140mm in front as intake

or

Radiator in front, 1x 120, 2x140 on top and back as exhausted, 2x120 in front as intake

or

am I way overthinking this beyond 'I should probably be pulling cool air over the radiator'

Is your rad 280mm or 240mm? That should determine whether you put the 140mm fans up front

e: oh, h110i, that's 280mm. Throw the 140's up front as intake.

mewse fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 19, 2018

mewse
May 2, 2006

Pretty sure this was the video that sealed the decision for me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves

From what I remember

Putting the radiator on the exhaust causes an increase in CPU temps
Putting the radiator on the intake causes an increase in GPU temps, because you're heating the air coming into the case

What bitwit found in that video is that putting radiator on exhaust caused a much larger increase on the CPU vs the increase on the GPU that you get from putting it on the intake.

Basically put radiator on front intake and use rear and top as exhausts

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

How necessary is delidding to get an 8086K to all core 5ghz? The last thing I overclocked was a 3570K so I'm very out of practice

I'd strongly suggest it, the temperature difference is stark. Many people report a 20 celsius drop under load.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Delidding my 8700k was shockingly easy, but I was able to 3D print delid and relid tools.

Kaby delid tool
Kaby relid tool

The nice thing about the delid tool is that it just needs a vise. I used a small 3-inch clamp-on vise from amazon. It does feel tense when you are waiting for the pop, but it works as advertised.

Clean-up of the stock TIM is easy, alcohol swabs help.

I used a tip from some youtube video and masked a rectangle on the IHS using scotch tape. Made the application of the liquid metal really easy. Apply it to the die of the CPU as well. Conductonaut comes with a black q-tip that helps.

The silicone for re-sealing is really just an adhesive to stick the IHS back on. The stock seal has a deliberate gap so it's not even meant to be airtight. Just use a minimal amount and stick it back on. Without the relid tool, you could use the socket of the motherboard to line up the IHS.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Which small motherboard would be best power-wise for a 5ghz 8086K? I'm leaning towards the Asrock Z370 mITX Fatal1ty and the EVGA Z370 mATX. It'll be going into a Meshify Mini C case, so mATX is the biggest I can go.

The two you just mentioned are both listed as "top of midrange" on this chart. Upper tier looks like all ATX boards.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

So is that bad? The 8086K should be binned to not need ridiculous voltage right?

No they should be very good, the top range stuff is for absurd stuff like liquid nitrogen OCs and the bottom range has awful poo poo like missing heatsinks. Top of midrange should provide very good overclocking.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Oops yeah, meant the MSI one. A high end tower should be sufficient for my plan, right? I'd prefer to stay on air but if water is necessary I'll go that route.

You can go on air and then if you're not getting the thermals you want, switch to water. Delidding and getting a good motherboard are more important imo.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Partial Octopus posted:

Are air coolers like the NH-D15 really better than most AIOs?

This article shows the nh-d15 as competitive with 240mm AiO's but less cooling than the 280mm kraken.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Well my 8086K did 24 hours of the full Prime95 test at 5ghz 1.31v no AVX, yay! Now to do an AVX version with the offset and declare stability

That's pretty good, I was never able to get my 8700k to 5. I had it stable on 4.9 then a bios revision wiped out my settings and now I'm on 4.8

mewse
May 2, 2006

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Ok I'm slightly scared about my PSU. My 8086K is at 5.0ghz 1.3v, and I noticed during Prime95 testing that it hit ~260W under an AVX load, and only like ~170W (I think) under non-AVX. That's kinda scary, since I chose a Seasonic Focus Plus 650W PSU. I know that PSU calculators say I should be fine since worst case heavy AVX I'd be at 440W for the CPU+GPU (260W+180W) and not much more for a total of 4 fans, 2 SSDs and a 5400RPM HDD. Did I make a bad choice? Should I exchange for a 750W?

When I got my 8700k it wouldn’t even boot properly with a seasonic 550W. I had to buy a 750W. That being said, the whole point of the prime95 run is stress testing and if the system isn’t failing then why would you exchange the psu?

If you plan on adding hard drives or a beefier video card then maybe

mewse
May 2, 2006

TheFluff posted:

Also, overclocking forum numbers should be taken with huge amounts of salt. They're heavily biased towards good results and a lot of the time the stability is questionable.

Combined with reddit being a bastion of level headed commenters

mewse
May 2, 2006

LRADIKAL posted:

Huh, he lied (was incorrect)

He's got an automatic voltage adjustment going on.



1.48v, probably won't burn it out, I think he's running Prime95 in the background here.

With those temperatures I doubt he's running prime95, it looks like he has WoW in the background.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Aeka 2.0 posted:

I may have lost the lottery. Overclocking my 8700k.
4.9 ghz and im having to hit 1.355 volts. Thermals are okay but I may have to delid if I want to continue trying for a round 5ghz. I had to do 1.4 volts to get there, so I backed off the last time. I pretty much hit a wall, eh?
I also had a serious crash that trashed my windows 10's ability to boot when trying for 5. I had to use a 3rd party utility and pay for it to get my windows to boot again as my registry values were at 0 bytes. Windows automatic recovery didn't work at all. Even rolling back on snapshots didnt work.

I'm starting to believe the good bins for the 8700k went to reviewers and then got turned into 8086k.

I needed to do a bios update to finally shed the meltdown/spectre vulnerabilities so I brushed up on overclocking by watching this video and some other stuff:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjkS3IdMT34

He says in this video their best 8700k does 5.0 at 1.4v. I was able to get mine up to 5.0 at that voltage, but it wasn't stable with prime95. I was able to play hours and hours of counterstrike before crashing last night and finally dropping to 4.9 with the same voltages, it's stable with prime95 now.

The 8700k reviews last year that said "we can do 5.0 at 1.33v on air!!" are basically bullshit imo

mewse
May 2, 2006

Hold The Ashes posted:

Managed to get an 8086k for $10 more than an 8700k so went for it, is it something I should delid (and does debauer tool even work for it?) or did intel suddenly start using decent paste for it?

It's physically identical and same TIM as the 8700k afaik (ie. benefits from delid)

mewse
May 2, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

The biggest problem is the stock cooler not the size of your case or how well it's ventilated, though that does play a small role.

Yeah, stock cooler sucks. You could go aftermarket cooler + delid if you really want to get temps down.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Fhqwhgads posted:

Is the 212 still the gold standard air cooler for non-extreme overclocking?

I think the noctua dh15 is the current hotness

mewse
May 2, 2006

Yeah hwinfo64 had two vcores listed for my mobo and I kinda had to trial and error to figure out which was for the processor

mewse
May 2, 2006

My board is also a gigabyte with the two vcore readings. I was graphing both of them and was pretty sure I knew which one was real but then under sustained prime95 testing one of the values halved itself lol

mewse
May 2, 2006

n.. posted:

Looks like it's the former.



Top one is under "gigabyte z390 aorus pro-cf (ITE IT8688E)" and the bottom one is under "gigabyte z390 aorus pro-cf (ITE IT8792E)"

They both droop the same amount under load, but they're about .034v offset.

The one I ended up trusting on my z370 gaming 7 was the one under IT8792E. My other one is above it and labelled ITE IT8686E, so slightly different than yours.

mewse
May 2, 2006

n.. posted:

My question is, why can't I lower the voltage anymore with LLC at 'turbo' and have it remain stable, when it runs at even lower voltage using 'normal' LLC with droop and is stable then?

Because despite showing the same voltage value the electricals are operating differently.

mewse
May 2, 2006

n.. posted:

Any way to mitigate that with settings or is it a lost cause?

I seem to have gotten a pretty crummy 9700k, seems others are getting past 5ghz at lower voltages no problem, but I'm pretty much stuck at 4.9 so far.

I don't know, I don't really understand what you're going for. LLC is to counteract vdroop at higher voltages so that the proc stays stable at higher frequencies, it seems like you're undervolting so maybe you don't even want LLC.

The only really solid advice I got regarding LLC was following along one of gamersnexus's livestreams where he was OCing an 8086k (I've got a 8700k) where he said if you set LLC to the second highest setting that should get you closest to bang on your manually entered voltage. I think he was using a gigabyte board as well so the second highest LLC setting has worked for me nicely.

For a better idea of voltages check out silicon lottery's tables, they were pushing 8700k's to over 1.4v to get them stable. They don't seem to have data for 9700k available.

mewse
May 2, 2006

dertylol posted:

Hello. Quick Specs: Intel 8700k OC'd to 4.7Ghz (47 multiplier and 100bclk), corsair vengeance lpx 16Gb DDR4 3000Mhz memory, MSI GTX 1060 6G, MSI Z370-a pro Motherboard, INWin Commander 850w 80+ Bronze PSU and a Corsair H100i v2
Problems: VID and Frequency tank under Prime95 (both using the latest version with AVX and version 26.6 that doesn't use AVX), during my last run of it, my frequency dropped to 800Mhz while my temps remained hovering at 70c and the load remained at 100%. I'm at as loss as you what could be causing this issue?
I've turned off EIST, Intel Turbboost (It still says enabled in my bios? but it is also greyed out), and set LLC to mode 4. If anyone has any ideas on what could be causing this and how to resolve it, that would be a amazing! I'd like to see if this thing can push 4.8-4.9 but with it acting the way it is, i'm hesitate to push it higher

There's a whole section in hwinfo64 that can show what is triggering throttling, if that is what's happening.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Kryonaut was on sale on Newegg.ca a couple days ago. From what I remember it was a vendor in Canada for $19.99cad

mewse
May 2, 2006

Aphex- posted:

Fairly new to overclocking, just got an 8700k with an h115i pro. I've put it to 4.5ghz to start with at 1.28v. Running the prime95 blend test for an hour so far and the highest temp I'm getting is 85c, is that pretty high for that particular AIO with that voltage? I feel like it should be lower but I don't know exactly.

Aphex- posted:

I played a few hours of BFV yesterday afterwards and saw the max temp as 89 which to me seems a little much, I might reapply the thermal paste as when I installed it, I did have to remount it which may have caused some air bubbles. I'll probably play around with the fan curves too, and possibly after that try and reduce the voltage slightly just to see if that helps.

Sorry for the late reply, I'm also running a 8700k and those temps seem high. 4.5ghz is a pretty modest OC. You'd be able to drop 15-20c by delidding. When applying the new paste, use a pea sized glop or the line method and let the paste smoosh across the chip, no air that way.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Aphex- posted:

The top panel on the H440 has some soundproofing foam inside it and the only exhaust for air is like a thin strip along one edge of the panel so it seems like the radiator just dumps heat onto itself and only gradually lets air out the side part. From the looks of things there's probably about 1cm of space between the top of the radiator and the soundproofing foam.

When I was deciding radiator placement I watched this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves

Not everyone agrees with this but it was enough for me to go with front placement

mewse
May 2, 2006

When memtest specifically stresses ram it won't encounter anything that screws with motherboard voltages by taxing the cpu (like a horrendous prime95 AVX workload)

mewse
May 2, 2006

SuperTeeJay posted:

I had to flex the motherboard a bit to get it out of the case so maybe the heat spreader shifted slightly with the cooler. (The delidder used liquid metal and reattached the heat spreader with a material that he described as elastic.) It's actually a bit of a nuisance that this is only affecting a single core and the cooling is still mainly effective as it means that sorting this out isn't worth the risk of bricking the CPU.

There's a good chance the heat spreader is ludicrously easy to remove now. Most people just use RTV silicone after delidding which is way, way less adhesive than whatever the stock goop is.

If you get some fresh liquid metal and re-do the application, chances of bricking the cpu are pretty low because the mechanically stressful part (delidding) is done already.

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mewse
May 2, 2006

Spacegrass posted:

I have a Dell Optiplex 790 and my bios doesn't have the overclocking ability. I've used just about every overclocking app i could find and none work on here. Is there a modded bios you could recommend for this system? My processor is a sandy bridge intel 2400. My motherboard is a generic stock from dell (0D28YY). Or should I not even not attempt it?

Trying to overclock with a non-K cpu and a OEM motherboard like that is a total crapshoot but you might be able to pull something off

From here:

quote:

What's this? The good news is that the rumors of Intel killing overclocking for non-K Sandy Bridge processors were slightly exaggerated! If you've got a CPU with Turbo Boost functionality it can be overclocked!! The bad news is that it's pretty limited. Our Core i5 2400 is rated at 3.1GHz with a typical Turbo speed of 3.2GHz with four active cores, with an absolute maximum of 3.4GHz under a single core load. By changing the Turbo multipliers to the maximum allowed either in the BIOS or the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility and raising the power consumption limits to 135W we were able to get the Core i5 2400 to run at a solid and steady 3.6GHz with a full 4 core load. 2 and 3 core loads are allowed to run at 3.7GHz and under single core loads Turbo was allowed up to 3.8GHz. These are noticeable increases in speed and only added about 15w of additional power use. It was on default voltage as well.

So you might be able to bump up turbo multipliers using intel extreme tuning utility to get some extra MHz. I severely doubt it's configurable in the Dell BIOS.

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