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Warbird posted:Goons, I'm in a bit of a situation. My fiancé's sister's boyfriend's roommate (say that 5 times fast) is a Chinese kid over here for school and suffers from the regrettably common symptom of having more money than sense. This has resulted in their household having 3 dogs in it, two young male huskies and a 6 month old female beagle. Now that the owner's girlfriend has decided that she does not in fact want the beagle, they are trying to find it a good home; enter me into the mix. I'm recently out of school and into a well paying steady 9-5 with my own apartment; I'm living by myself for at least 6 months or so and I'd love a pet. Getting a dog is something I've wanted to do for a while now, but I have some reservations on picking up this potentially free beagle. There are lots of people who get young puppies and work a 9-5. I managed it, with friends and family coming over when they could for a half day or a day to let him chill outside of the crate. There are certainly options available - puzzle toys, stuffed kongs, etc will all keep a dog happy for a while if you really need to crack on. Most dogs will pretty quickly fall in the pattern of not doing much during the working day anyway. I have a 10mo collie snoozing on my lap as I write this bc we did tons yesterday and he's tired still vOv (meanwhile my foster 6mo bc who has never been taught to chill is jumping around with a squeaky toy...) You could also look into dog walkers and dog daycare etc if you need the dog out of the house for a morn or afternoon or smthn. A friend of mine uses "dog club" and the dogwalker will pick her dogs up and keep them in the van with toilet breaks etc from about 10am til their 1 or 2hr walk at lunch and drops them back off about 4-5pm. One of the biggest things is making sure you have the right attitude re socialization. Especially with a younger pup. By 6mo the beagle isn't in the critical period anymore but you should still be proactive in getting her to meet other (friendly) dogs and people and to be relaxed in new and unusual circumstances pretty much every day or every other day.
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Feb 15, 2016 08:27
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 04:47 |
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All 3 of my dogs are insured. The one with an ongoing medical problem isn't insured for that problem as it pre-dated the insurance, but it's peace of mind for if they eat something they shouldn't, get in an accident, etc.
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Feb 18, 2016 14:52
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Engineer Lenk posted:Went herding today with my dog for half an hour and she's been chilling in the house the rest of the day; she'd be up for more activity but she doesn't demand it. This is typical for most of the working bred border collies I've met, as well as a couple of dogs that I've fostered. Sport bred dogs are legit crazy and AKC bred have drive all over the map. The exercise and energy requirements aren't all that different from the other sporting breeds. Working bred collies own for their off switch. Pet or sport bred are where I usually see the nutty ones that can't relax. Even my dumb foster settles eventually, tho he hasn't ever been taught to chill.
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Feb 22, 2016 13:40
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I have a quick question about jogging with my dog/puppy. He is a 13 month old doberman / border collie. If it matter's he is shaped more like a doberman with longer legs and an overall taller body. I normally jog 5 miles a couple times a week with my labs but I would like to bring him into the fold to burn some energy (especially for him). Is he old enough that the jogs are ok for him? I don't want to hurt his growth or something because he started running with me. Also should I start with shorter distances? His breed seems like has the same energy as my labs, just a little more disciplined, but I don't want to over tax him and accidentally hurt him. Thanks If you're jogging on a hard surface, like paths or roads, I would wait another 2-3 months before starting. When you do start, definitely start with shorter distances and build up. Even if he is used to long walks etc it isn't the same as a structured and consistent running speed. I learned the hard way about over exercising a young active breed dog 
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Mar 8, 2016 08:04
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pookel posted:* ETA: I understand she's acting fearful now, but I think her level of confidence considering that she's known us for less than a week is a good sign. I've been around a few neurotic Yorkies who startle at every noise and can't deal with new people, and she's not like that at all. I have a fearful/neurotic/neophobic terrier and she takes about a day or two of constant interaction or a week of more sporadic interaction with someone to get used to them pretty much for life. She isn't "acting fearful" - dogs aren't theatrical performers - she IS reacting to this new environment in a fearful way. That she's coming round over a few days doesn't make her less fearful, though it is of course good. If she's still growling at the kids, I would be wary of allowing interaction at all between them tbh. Getting a dog that you had no idea if it had ever been around kids before seems crazy - especially with an autistic child, as a lot of dogs used to children would still be a little alarmed by one that has loud tantrums etc. I'm surprised the rescue let you take her with not knowing her history. Imo best thing would be to say that the kids do not approach her at all for at least another week. Let them carry treats on themselves at all times, and if she approaches them they can drop a treat in front of her - meaning less pressure as they aren't leaning in, getting in her space etc. It's hard to explain to kids that they can't handle and touch the new thing but she sounds stressed out, and a stressed dog can escalate to biting even if the kids back off when growling if they are still coming back a little while later to try again.
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Mar 23, 2016 23:01
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What sort of stuff are you needing help with? Generally afaik you'll have to do a consult of prob 20 or 30 but how much it costs after that will depend on what the issue is, how frequently you have to go, etc
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Mar 25, 2016 18:29
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Darth Walrus posted:Basically I was just thinking standard advice and basic setup training for a new puppy, nothing exotic. Oh I figured you meant for an issue of some sort. Probably would all be covered in an initial thing so assume less than £40. Just make sure you look into the type of certification they should have and find someone who matches the training style and standards you want to use.
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Mar 26, 2016 07:33
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Darth Walrus posted:What, for a whole setup course? That's pretty cheap. In your previous post it sounded like you just wanted new puppy advice/training, if you aren't specifically going into what you're after then I can't really guesstimate prices. Find the people around you doing the stuff you want and ask them.
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Mar 26, 2016 18:23
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Real_Horrorshow posted:I was picking up Bella from her spay surgery today, and while the nurse was giving me care instructions, I accidentally let Bella wander over to sniff this bull terrier sitting in his owners lap. The guy blocks Bella, I apologize, and he says something like "control your dog, man". I feel terrible that I potentially put Bella in danger, but I guess I thought that kind of behavior was just expected in a small space with several dogs. If this owner is worried about his dogs behavior, shouldn't he have crated him? Just as an aside, I never never let dogs interact with mine or vice versa in a veterinary/healthcare situation. Not only do you not know other dogs' temperaments & opinions on other dogs, but the vets is a stressful place and will put a lot of dogs on edge. And (unless this was a place that *only* does neutering) you don't know why the other dog is AT the vets. I had someone try to let their dog "say hello!" to my boy in the vets the other week, where he'd just been diagnosed with conjunctivitis, which can be pretty contagious. As a reactive dog owner, you become very aware of what your dog is doing & where it is - and it's always good when a non-reactive dog owner is also on the ball
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May 2, 2016 18:49
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Kluliss posted:I have reduced her food by half a cup (british, so a cup is an arbitrary unit holding approximately 1/4 of her daily food allowance.) she now gets 75% of the food she was getting before, which was the amount on the bag for a 15kg dog. Hey just to pick up on this a lil, definitely never go off of bag recommendations lol My collie bitch weighs about 18kg iirc. She gets 3/4 of a cup twice a day (1 & 1/2 cups total). My entire collie male weighs about 19kg and gets 2 cups of food twice a day (4 cups total) plus wet food. If I went off of the bag weights Theo wouldn't be able to eat all his food (he struggles with what he gets and that just about keeps him looking non skeletal) and Kalli would be very fat. Which would be bad for her as she has OCD in her shoulder and weight and exercise management is key to keeping her happy and healthy. The collids get the same amount of exercise most days - e.g. 45 min in morn and 1 to 1.5hr in eve - though some days bc of Kalli's OCD she misses a walk, and if I go to agility training I don't take her etc. People tend to be v negative if you point out even in the nicest of ways that their dog is overweight. It's not a failing on your behalf. My old dog (staffie x beagle who lived for food) was hard to manage with her food for a long time until I finally realised you should just full on ignore bag recommendations. I don't even use them as a starting point, I just feed my dogs the amount that keeps them looking good. Even though staffies tend to be pretty barrelly, a staff/cross in good condition is REALLY noticeable. On a thin coated dog like a staff they actually get a lot of comments re starving your dog (by idiots!) if they are in genuinely good condition so it's hard to balance. At 11 I wouldn't worry about making her into a warrior princess but the less extra weight she carries the better
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Jun 13, 2016 22:28
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a life less posted:Just like with people, aim for 1-2% of total body mass lost each week. I know you said weighing her isn't easy, but if you have a vet nearby they may be happy to help. Fwiw Kluliss vets4pets is generally great for this. Every time I pass my local one with the dogs I pop in, weigh them, give them a few biscuits and pop back out
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Jun 14, 2016 21:41
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pookel posted:Some people think it's hilarious to be assholes, that's all. Some people also post about their problem dogs then wildly backtrack and insist that there is no problem 
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Jun 14, 2016 21:42
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pookel posted:I don't particularly care about hand holding, but it's really loving weird how PI likes to latch onto a couple of random pieces of info and then start "answering" questions the poster never even asked while ignoring the questions they actually do ask.
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Jun 15, 2016 05:55
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Dyna Soar posted:I'm no expert Dyna Soar you sure have posted a lot of poo poo itt. Did your buddy's retarded fear-biting foster dog end up getting euthed? btw I hope you've realised that Kluliss has basically put her hands up & said 'ok cool im chill' and you're still furiously white knighting her and any other Poor Soul Who Got Got By PI.
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Jun 15, 2016 20:11
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 04:47 |
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If you're taking a dog with kennel cough to the vets let them know ahead of time. My vets don't let kc dogs in the waiting room as they can spread it to other dogs there Also when all mine got KC they didn't go to the vets. I gave everyone simple lynctus and no exercise for a week and even the puppy was back to normal within a week vOv
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Jun 20, 2016 07:05
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