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Playing SD Gundam online and watching Zeta/ZZ recently has opened my eyes to a lot of suits I would love to build, but then I look and they're out of stock everywhere and made like 20 years ago or they've just never been made into a model. Anyone know how to go about making custom parts? 
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Mar 22, 2012 03:47
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How are you guys mixing your Future with flat base? I want a float coat and I am doing 1 parts flat base to 10 parts future but I still feel that the clear coat is making my parts look too light (such as flat black to more of a grey) even with only 2 coats.
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Mar 23, 2012 21:16
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Really depends on the kind of primer you use. I prime with Tamiya fine surface primer which I think is lacquer based so I usually wait about a day before painting onto it, but it's honestly probably dry within a few hours.
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Apr 16, 2012 06:58
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I too have just gotten back into gunpla after a 10 year break and I too have just finished my first suit since as of today!  More pictures in the Set.
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May 3, 2012 07:00
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Actually all I did for the clear lenses is paint the backs with chrome silver and use a clear color on the front. The chrome really adds that extra depth.
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May 3, 2012 07:31
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Here's another way to do those raised sleeves insignias: http://majorwilliams.blogspot.com/2011/04/gundam-building-101-reverse-wash-and.html
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Jun 5, 2012 17:29
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And I thought my 20 kit backlog was terrible. I hope with the 25th anniversary of CCA next year and the Nu getting a Ver Ka this Dec, we'll see a MG Sazabi Ver Ka as well. I really want a Sazabi but the current kit is so bad and still really expensive for being 12 years old.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:54
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I have the Sniper II White Dingo sitting here looking lonely. Glad it'll get friends in the future.
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Oct 15, 2012 07:47
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I'm sure some of you modelling a while have had that one kit that refused to come into fruition. I started building this Zaku Mariner with the plan of having it done in 2 weeks so I could move on to other things. 6 months later I finally got it finished yesterday. First problem was that I decanted my Tamiya primer with the purpose of spaying it indoors from my airbrush and not wasting a lot of paint. lovely thing is decanting somehow eliminated its ability to auto-level and fill in any rough parts from sanding and also left a lovely texture on my parts (probably from not enough thinner). It haunted me throughout the build. In the future there's going to have to be some sanding between primer coats, on top of fine sanding before priming. Second was I wanted to do some custom panel lining. I discovered that a good panel line is almost unnoticeable by the undiscerning, bad panel lines stick out like a sore thumb. Third, the major blue color I was using, a Tamiya Royal Blue refused to play nice with isopropyl alcohol as a thinner, as well as Tamiya's own brand of lacquer thinner and acrylic thinner. It would spray gloss in spots and flat in others, an no amount of coats eliminated that, and neither did any gloss coats. In the end the flat coat hid most of my shame and the build turned out okay (save a little too much flat base in my flat coat, but it looks okay). I also think I need to switch to lacquers because every time my acrylic paint scratches, even with multiple clear coats and plenty of curing time, I die a little on the inside.  Zaku Mariner-1  Zaku Mariner-2  Zaku Mariner-3 by faltion, on Flickr Sorry photos are pretty dark, my slap-dash photo booth didn't do the trick this time. Going to get some better pics taken tomorrow. I think my next build is going to be a z'gok since it only has like 3 runners and shouldn't hurt my already bruised ego. Also have a panda beargguy I built for my wife.  Panda Beargguy
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Dec 3, 2012 04:56
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Mecha Gojira posted:Also, added Faltion's projects to the OP, because they're REALLY cool. Hey, thanks   Zaku Mariner new 1 by faltion, on Flickr  Zaku Mariner new 2 by faltion, on Flickr Meant to get these better pictures of the mariner taken earlier, but I was working on the aforementioned z'gok:  Z'gok 1 by faltion, on Flickr  Z'gok 2 by faltion, on Flickr  Z'gok 3 by faltion, on Flickr I had a Char's Z'gok sitting around, I wanted to just pain it Char colors and put a little command horn on it because I adore Kidou Senshi Gundam-San. Instead I went with the Unicorn colors. I did a little more weathering on the kit than I usually, do (I prefer them looking factory new), but most of it is subtle and hard to see in pictures. I figured an 18 year old mobile suit wasn't going to look so shiny regardless of how much work the Zeon remnants did to maintain them. Only other custom work was the little nubbin in the crotch and the clear mono-eye. Pictures still seem to be too dark on my screen, I need to actually get some studio lighting considering all the macro I like to shoot. Getting a kit done in 2 weeks instead of 6 months is a lot more enjoyable. Faltion fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 03:27
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Bimmi posted:Words I'll accept your challenge on the nippers since I've been meaning to get one of these seam scrapers forever as well. Also I vote on the Gabthley because: grunts (also I have a Juaggu).
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Jan 1, 2013 17:52
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How blunt the v-fin comes out of the box makes the 00 look like a bug. Get those things pointy and looking like a Gundam, man!
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Jan 12, 2013 20:26
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TaurusOxford posted:So Bandai is making a limited "White Unicorn" RG Zeta Gundam. Pretty much par for the course for Bandai. Different colors->Change a couple decals->Sell as limited edition online: People will buy that poo poo up. God, I want one
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Jan 18, 2013 08:40
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There's also some stuff called Plastic-prep you can buy that helps remove the oils and is supposed to make parts less static-prone. I mix some in with my soap when washing runners. Also I give dirty parts a dip in it prior to painting to help get dust and oils off from sanding and handling. I have enough painting issues, it's nice to not have my primer come off in chunks due to bad adhesion.
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Jan 22, 2013 09:45
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I might be interested in the GP-02 and assorted other MGs and HGs depending on what you've got. Edit: Fauxtool you suck
Faltion fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 08:02
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The purpose of washing the parts with soap before painting is to get off the substances left on them from the injection molding process. If you paint over the oils you have the possibility of your paint not adhering to the part.
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Mar 7, 2013 07:22
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ACanofPepsi posted:I have some Acrylic matte finish as well. Perhaps the workflow should be PAINT> LINE (CAREFULLY)> MATTE The order of operations for those of us who paint is generally: prime->paint->gloss clear coat->decals->gloss clear coat->line->matte clear coat. I'm assuming for markers it's similar to washes where you want a glossy surface for the lining to work well, but it's probably not as big a deal. Regardless you should clear coat between color and lining so you have a buffer if you gently caress up lining somewhere.
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Mar 8, 2013 03:14
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If you want to build the more complex gunpla kits definitely look at master grade, real grade, and perfect grade depending on how much you want to spend since they have the most details. I personally don't build any actual Gundams at all and stick to grunts and suits from the Universal Century, which I think tends to have more suits that look more like military machines (except you zakrello you ugly gently caress). In my opinion Zeon has more striking suits with things like the Kampfer, Geara Zulu, Sinanju, and a ton of other suits that aren't Zaku clones (though I love Zakus). Late UC EFSF suits like the Jesta are also really cool.
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Mar 26, 2013 05:51
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As outrageous as the FA Unicorn is at least it's no Wing Gundam Zero EW.
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Mar 26, 2013 10:20
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Over the course of the last day I put together a RG Zeta that I got for Christmas. I am really glad I did not decide to paint this kit, as I imagine it would be a nightmare. There's nothing I am really very fond of regarding it. It is the first RG kit I've put together and while all the detail is really nice, the gimmicks about it seem to really detract from it. Parts are falling off constantly, the RG hands are worthless and can't support the beam rifle and barely hold the beam saber, the transformation is something I don't want to attempt because I just don't want to deal with more parts falling off from me just looking at the kit, and I think because of the transformation the kit feels incredibly flimsy and fragile, and I am really worried about trying to pose the thing lest something snap off since I can't really gauge which parts of the frame are able to move in which direction. I am still interested in how RG kits are going to progress, especially ones that aren't transformable, and still might pick up one (or both) of the GP01's coming out, but with a lot of hesitation. Unfortunately the Zeta soured me a bit on the RG line as a whole and I don't see myself deviating from HG and MG kits much in the future.
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Apr 1, 2013 00:22
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ActionZero posted:Oh god reading that made me shrink into a cringing mess. This times a million. In a similar vein to glue, I switched from Squadron's white putty to Tamiya's white and dear god, it's like day and night. Why haven't I been using this from the beginning? Something to note though is that even though it is lacquer based it does not play nice with Tamiya's primer.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:51
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 I've got 4 pairs of sprue side cutters including those heavy tweezers from Micro-Mark and some nice Tamiya ones, they're like my most important tools for gunpla along with my blades, files, and airbrush. Maybe it's just me but I feel like good tools facilitate good work, and I'd gladly drop cash for good tools instead of another random HG kit and especially if I was considering building a nice MG or PG.
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Apr 4, 2013 07:45
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muike posted:Any tips for drybrushing with acrylics? Washes with them aren't a problem, but they dry so fast that drybrushing might give me problems. I've never had an issue with drybrushing Tamiya acrylics, but you could try a thinner with a retardant (the Tamiya acrylic and lacquer thinners have this) or just find an acrylic retardant on its own. You need to remember that when drybrushing you want very little paint on your brush and you are pretty much just rubbing the nearly dry paint on the parts as is. Less is definitely more with drybrushing so you kind of want very little to transfer each pass of the brush.
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Apr 5, 2013 01:18
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With the Tallgeese being basically a fancy Leo, it would certainly seem smart on Bandai's part to make one especially since quite a few Wing fans seem to want one. In a similar vein with the MG Jesta coming out soon I am hoping that means we're going to see more Gundam UC grunt MGs in the future. Knowing Bandai we'll potentially see a MG Jesta Cannon. It's odd to me that we've got 3 versions of the ReZel, but no MG Geara Zulu, when the Geara Zulu could be retooled into its many variants as well and I know people are clamoring for a Rozen Zulu MG. Considering Gundam UC Episode 6 had only 1 new mobile suit (The Jesta Cannon) and Episode 7 potentially having none (my speculation) aside from Full Frontal's new mobile armor (which probably will be too large for a model kit), I'm sure they're going to have to start making some of the kits they've only made as HGs since it'll be a while before the Origin comes out or whatever series is next. If The Origin is produced and they start putting out The Origin versions of all the original 0079 kits am I alone in not really being interesting in slightly different-looking versions of what we've already got? I'm still holding out for a Ver ka Sazabi this year.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:35
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Depending on the nub I go with a file->400->800->1000->2000. It will still look crappy at 2000 on plastic, but I paint all my kits and it's not noticeable. I've seen 6000-12000 help polish it down to look a bit more even, but nothing will ever really hide nub marks aside from paint. Someone mentioned using a fingernail to polish a sanded area which actually works. Also wet sanding helps with avoiding a lot of sanding marks in my opinion.
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Apr 14, 2013 18:47
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Contact Travis at http://www.genteikits.com/ if you'd like to order replacement parts. He also sells exclusive kits if you're looking to pick one up. He's a decent guy. Edit: Looks like they've suspended that service until May 10 since they're backlogged.
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Apr 20, 2013 06:04
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Maybe try some 2-part epoxy putty to reshape the peg? Might not be strong enough to have that eye piece move. If that isn't an issue, why not just glue it in place?
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Apr 20, 2013 23:08
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Find some thin metal rod of the appropriate diameter and set it into that plate. You can usually find that kind of stuff at hobby shops.
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Apr 21, 2013 01:15
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Holy crap, I've been on the edge forever in picking up a Geara Doga HGUC, now I'm going straight for the MG. It's a stretch, but if they added the Sleeves markings it would be amazing. I hope this means maybe a MG Jagd Doga (it is the CCA 30th anniversary after all) and also leads to MG Geara Zulus. This makes me even more excited about a Ver. Ka Sazabi. Also the Gebera Tetra has needed a refresh for a long long time, this is awesome.
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Apr 23, 2013 05:01
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Unexciting news about the new RX-78-2 aside, great news is we're getting a HGUC Zogok! http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2013/05/hguc-1144-zogok-on-display-shizouka.html
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May 16, 2013 03:45
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One thing I don't like about the RG line is that with so many moving parts, painting becomes a nightmare because anywhere with poor clearance means your paint will scratch right off even if its just during that one time you pose it and never touch it again. Also if secondhand comments are to be believed the 3.0 doesn't come with a core fighter (not that I care that much, although it appears to have space for it), no bazooka, no hyper hammer (did any kit?) and no waterslides. While I like extra details, they had that with the OYW version and got rid of it for the 2.0, now they're using RG details but lacking in features? Seems like 2 steps forward 1 step back to me. Still, it's an impressive looking kit and I don't even like most Gundams, especially the RX-78-2. I just don't see it finding a spot in my collection. Also drat, both GP01s look impressive. I only had the Fb on order, but I might have to change that. Faltion fucked around with this message at 07:06 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 06:57
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If you're trying to get exclusive kits, dealing with Gentei Kits or Samuel Decal (who seems to be able to get the Japan and HK exclusives) both have good customer service. Samuel is also totally worth contacting if you want to get some custom decals printed, and the ones he makes are pretty good as well, albeit some are really wordy, if you know what I mean. I'm not really interested in 3rd party kits, but I'm not at all opposed to them in the thread since they definitely are gunpla/plamo. That being said I'd like to see some more Kotobukiya and other manufacturers up in here.
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May 22, 2013 06:33
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I'm super partial to HLJ myself. With the yen so low right now, the prices are great. With the fact that I often buy in bulk and have them hold my kits in their warehouse until I have 5 or 6 to ship at a time, the shipping becomes really negligible compared to the markup for kits in the states along with the high cost of shipping that seems to accompany it.
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May 22, 2013 07:56
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With the RG GP01 Zephyranthes and the Fb coming out, along with the HGUC Gerbera Tetra, and P-Bandai exclusives of Gato's Gelgoog and Zaku II. I am really hoping we get some sort of new GP02 at some point. After a new Sazabi, of course.
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May 24, 2013 05:26
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Yeah even at the rate I'm buying kits, I only have all the shelves of a 2'x4' bookcase full of backlog, as well as a couple random kits that don't fit anywhere like a 1/144 Kshatriya, a MG Rick Dom and a MG Sinanju Stein on top of all the kits currently in progress like my Gelgoog Jager and a M61A5 Semovente and the random built kits waiting in the 'I'll eventually paint these' queue. Now the 10 kits either waiting to ship or are on preorder that I don't have space for, well...  Now just thinking about it means I'm going to have to go in there tomorrow and clean out my closet to make everything tidy and fit.
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May 26, 2013 09:42
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Got my hands on another online exclusive kit through Samuel Decal and the HK Bandai Online Proshop.: I'm guessing this was a reprint from the J shop at some point since it has 2012 on it, but I hadn't heard of it before. I'm actually pretty impressed because they had to do a lot of extra work for the different parts of the K & Shark Mouth compared to the regular Twin Ball set and this thing has 7 different colors and no excess parts, so it's not just a reprint with extra bits like my White Dingo kits. Not sure if I'm going to paint them since they're tiny and I have a MG Ball ver Ka on the way, but I definitely want to put them together.
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May 28, 2013 20:23
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The RG Zeta was the only kit I've not had any enjoyment putting together in the past 2 years.
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May 30, 2013 18:48
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I'm pretty sure the Shark Mouth Ball and the Ball-K are both based off the Ver. Ka so you can't go wrong with any of them.
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May 30, 2013 21:37
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So I've been working on a model for the last 6 months (Apparently when I do custom work it takes 6x longer to finish something). Totally realized that I painted 2 Gelgoog beam spot gun barrels (painted dark grey) a few weeks ago and accidentally threw them out in the black trash bag I was using. Thankfully I have a 3d printer and pla pate+metal piping so I'll be able to reconstruct them. I am so good at making extra work for myself. Got in a MG Jesta today and a MG Ball ver Ka. Pretty surprised how small the Jesta kit is. It's the same footprint as a HG but twice as thick. Edit: I finally cleaned up my closet and my kit collection. I suddenly don't feel so guilty that I have a backlog, it doesn't seem like that many.  
Faltion fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 05:24
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 06:04 |
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The obvious reason why I got a Jesta is that when they release the MG Jesta Cannon, I will be able to have a Jesta and a Jesta Cannon to sit unbuilt on my shelf for a year(s). 
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Jun 6, 2013 20:24
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