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I'm contemplating making some of these glowing bottles for some stuff. The author goes into detail about using glowsticks for the actual glowing part, but only vaguely hints at embedding an LED into the cork for more fluid flexibility. Anyone have any experience with, or can point me to, a good set of pictures on how to get an LED, a battery, and some sort of switching mechanism(doesn't matter what type as long as it's on/off, and not visible) into a cork like that?
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Mar 16, 2017 01:55
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Anyone know any good way to emulsify the fluid inside a glowstick? I made those bottle i posted about and they're nice, but the fluid just sits in the bottom, and I'd like to distribute it a bit more evenly.
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Mar 28, 2017 19:15
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Does anyone know of any sort of thin-but-stiff plastic that would be heat moldable? I'm talking like card stock thickness or thereabouts, but a bit stiffer then that. Even better if I can order it in sheets up to 3ft long.
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Apr 4, 2017 13:32
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legendof posted:There are lots of thermoplastic options (worbla, sintra, teraflex, thibra) in addition to things like ABS and PETG. They vary in ease of use, texture, thickness, durability, etc. What do you need it for? This past Halloween, I tried to make a set of articulating wings. I followed the tutorials posted by Alexis Noriega on Youtube(good god, her bird is annoying), and didn't realize until I went to attach the hand made 3ft long feathers to the wing frame that they were way too heavy. It didn't help that Alexis' method of actuation at the time was very expensive pneumatics(she recently seems to have switched to electric), which is much stronger than my manual pulley system. This year, I'm planning ahead and trying to find the lightest means of making the primary wing feathers that I can. I had considered card stock or similar paper products, but those seem to bend too easily and can possibly crease, which would be bad. I figure if I can find some really cheap, thin, plastic, I can cut it to shape and length, heat-form a crease in the middle for the quill of the feather to add more stiffness, then take some really rough grit sandpaper and scrap the feathers up from the center outwards, to give the texture of the feathers.
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Apr 5, 2017 01:39
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Skandranon posted:Maybe try velcro to anchor them? Can still use straps, but will keep them from sliding and still easy to clean. Seconding this. Velcro is cheap to order online, you can sew one side to the suit, and hot glue the other to the pad.
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Apr 17, 2017 14:42
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Does anyone have any good resources for an ankle length coat like you'd see on a plague doctor or the like? I'm not looking for anything with a collar or lapels, just something basic and utilitarian.
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Jun 21, 2017 16:27
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What's a decent and simple method for connecting one thing to another that'd be plausible for a plague doctor? I'm making a sort of utility belt thing loosely based on some festival belt plans I found, and I wanna be able to hang my bottles and phials of weird cure-alls off of it for looks. I don't wanna use carabiners, and I'm not sure how D-rings would look/work for the smaller stuff. What did people use to hang things on stuff back then?
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Jul 14, 2017 21:52
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legendof posted:Does it have to be hanging? Image search "vial bandolier" and you'll see the tiny-pouch-based approach that I think is close to the look you want. You can do a similar technique with leather to make containers you can hang from a belt. Huh. I didn't even know that was the name for it. That's much closer to what I was looking to make.
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Jul 14, 2017 22:08
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Actually, wait, duh, I will be making one of those, yeah, but I still need to hang bottles off of it in addition to the vials I'll be using. I'm gonna have 3 or 4 of these bottles as well, and I want to show off their webbing and have them swaying as I move and such. The specific bottles pictured there are the ones I have, so they have a rim around the neck that I can tie or wrap something around to use as the connecting piece to the belt.
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Jul 15, 2017 01:24
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Ashcans posted:Not exactly sure what period you are aiming for; the image of a plague doctor most people know is from the 1600s, but I think I've seen a number with a more steam-punky bent that push it later than that in general. I think that if you want to use D rings it would be fine - 1600s is full of elaborate armors and most typical buckles and fasteners would be fine - barring those spring clasps, I guess. I guess I'm trying to aim for a mix of both. I don't have a specific look I'm trying to copy, but rather going for an amalgamation of whatever I see that I think looks neat, but without being completely ridiculous. If I had to post some inspirational pictures that got me going, it'd probably be these, among others: link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link, Going through each part of the "standard" costume, we'll start with the mask/head. I first had the idea to do this costume around Halloween last year. I started off with a crow themed Venetian mask that I bought at Spirit. Then I took some pleather and sewed up the bottom of the mask and added some silver reflective aviator lenses behind the eyes. I also bought a "farmer's hat", and a cheap cowl that I dyed black. I'm still fine tuning things, but I do like the result so far. Next, the clothes. I'm still looking for something cheap. I'm torn between going with the cheaper, easier, more formless smock or robe, or going with a more expensive, but more detailed button down coat and apron or similar. My instinct is to go button down coat, but I'm still trying to source a good one. Recommendations on which way I should go and links to pieces I could order would be greatly appreciated. Up next, the stick. Most plague doctors had a long stick or cane that they used to prod and move the dead and dying. I'm choosing to make a cane for myself, as that's the classier option. I found this resin cast raven skull which I'm in the middle of attaching to a wooden dowel to make a cane. For that, I've got some copper pipe caps that I epoxied into the base of the skull, and will epoxy onto the end of dowel. I'll stain that and cap the other end with another copper cap. I'd have preferred to use brass, but couldn't find anything when shopping around town. Googling tells me I can darken the copper via a few different methods though, so we'll see what I can do about that. I haven't stained the dowel yet, as I'm waiting till I can get the next part together to color coordinate with that. Which brings me to the kit. Every doctor needs a kit of stuff that they carry around with them. That's what I'm working on now. At first I was going to try making a bag/case of stuff to carry around, but I figured that'd be too unwieldy with the cane. This lead me to the festival belt I posted about earlier, and then to the vial bandolier. I'm still not decided on a design for this, so if anyone has opinions on how that should go, that'd be great. I can't decide if I should go with the festival belt style, which would work with a button down coat, holding bottles and pouches and whatnot on that, or if I should go with the bandolier, which would probably work well with a smock or other less detailed top. I know I've got 3 potion bottles I want to hang, and at least 3, but probably more, slender bottles I want to hold bandolier style on whatever I make. Along with that, I know I need a couple of pouches to hold random stuff and 1 pouch dedicated to a wifi speaker that I'll be using to play a bunch of crow calls and such while I walk around, for ambience. Finally, last year I posted a prototype of some articulating wings I was working on. I'm still working on them, as I've figured out that they need to be actuated by something stronger than my leg. I'm working on lightening the weight of the feathers and making some sort of small winch and pulley system that'll help out there. So that's where I stand as of now. I've got a while, but I can basically only work on this on the weekends with the few dollars I have left over from pay day. It's a good learning experience though, and I'm really enjoying figuring all this stuff out.
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Jul 16, 2017 20:58
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That baldric looks amazing and I can totally adapt that to what i need. I went to a few of the thrift shops and found a ton of different leather and pleather jackets in different colors, so which color to go with is the next decision i have to make. Black is much more common, I'm finding, but would a black baldric look good on a black coat? Also, do you have links or names for the companies with jacket patterns? I don't really know where to start looking for that.
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Jul 22, 2017 16:21
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Super 3 posted:Didn't know where to post this and this seemed like as good a place as any. My first thought is use some heavy crafting wire for the bones of the build(get in the hardware section of Lowes/Home Depot near the picture hanging hardware), and then cover with chicken wire and spray foam over that for the body/details. Personally, if I were making it modular to take apart, I would use PVC for the legs so I could add in some nicer leg joints at proper intervals and attach to the body via m/f screw on connectors or the like. For the body, something light, yet sturdy. Again, chicken wire framework, probably stuffed with. say, packing peanuts or bubble wrap that won't melt in the rain, then spray foam over the top. If you wanna make it more water resistant, get a can of clear coat spray paint and give it a couple coats of that, then sand lightly with very very fine grit sandpaper to take the shiny finish off. Ashcans posted:I think you can probably get away with black on black, as you are probably going to have a difference in texture between the coat and baldric that will make it work; especially if you are going to have interesting/differently colored stuff attached on it, having a more subdued one might be good to offset bright liquids, tools, etc. Otherwise I think that a dark brown would be good too, its neutral enough to not really cause any clashing. Thanks, this is really helpful! My sewing experience level is basically "I know what a sewing machine is and how to make it bind two pieces of fabric together, but I know nothing about any of the settings, and basically nothing of hand sewing." My only real previous experience is sewing velcro onto nylon webbing to make straps for a different project. Still, I've had just about zero luck finding anything locally, so I'm all for trying anything now. If you can find whatever patterns you think would look decent, I'm all for giving it a try. The one you linked is neat, and ultimately, I do think going with a coat that's got a front more like this or this will look best. I think I like the fold-over-flap look of the former, but the overall shape of the latter, with some added sleeves instead of the feathers down the length of the arms. Still, obviously it'll probably be difficult to find exactly the perfect thing, so hey, whatever you can find, I'm happy to look at. EDIT: What do you think between something like this, this, or even this? The first one is easy looking and simple, but the last one is more complex, but really nice looking. Choices. There's really way too many options. 
neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 21:55
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I'll see if I can find anything similar but affordable.
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So I'm not sure if this is a topic for this thread, but I'm really curious. How do you goons who cosplay regularly afford this stuff? I've got things I've been wanting to make for years, but I'm just too drat poor to afford it. I'm assuming most of you just have regular disposable income, but maybe you guys actually figure a cosplay budget into your every day budgeting?
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Dec 31, 2017 01:44
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Hey goons, a friend and I had the idea for a thing we wanna try, and I need a bit of help coming up with parts of it. We're attempting to create an sort of curio cart that can be pushed around and is stocked with all sorts of arcane goodies. We're looking for ideas for recognizable, but relatively small, curios, items, healing things, items of magic and power, and otherwise just weird stuff from any and all video game, anime, and other lore universes. The smaller the better, potions and easily crafted trinkets are best, but really anything will do as long as at least one person in the room might know what the thing is. Toss ideas at me to add to my list, please.
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Sep 7, 2018 22:51
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Magnus Praeda posted:I feel like if you're going to drag around a portable junk shop, one of you must absolutely be dressed like this: Squarely Circle posted:That sounds like a really cool and fun idea as long as the cart isn't too awkward to lug around! I'm interested to know how you plan to construct that more than anything else, because I've also thought about making a similar thing to sell merch at cons. A few ideas: pokeball, mushroom powerup, triforce, the one ring... you could just get a black pompom and some googly eyes and make one of the sootballs from Spirited Away Considering design for the cart, what she's told me thus far is that she needs to ask the guy who came up with L'il Bit for specifics, but the cart is supposed to essentially be a large chest on a pull-cart, pulled along by a troll. The chest is supposed to be a somewhat-tamed mimic, and so most of the time, you can open the chest just fine, but there's always a chance that it'll try to bite you. Personally, I'm envisioning something shaped a bit like a hot dog cart in overall shape(minus umbrella, obvs), with a chest taking up the wheeled end that'll have one of those trick panels for the top that you can either open to reveal the inside, or open to reveal a panel with a painted mouth and teeth. The cart would be covered in trinkets, baubles, and other oddities. As for construction, we just came up with this idea yesterday, so I haven't actually done any design work as of yet, but I can absolutely see making something out of cheap plywood and like, a cannibalized bike off Craigslist. The hardest/most expensive part would be the chest, and making that work, I think. Here's a quick doodle of a quick concept outline. The big non-chest box would basically be the display counter, with a door or shelves or the like inside to store more stuff, and all sorts of things dangling off the sides. For our costumes, again, she wants to ask the OP, but she's envisioning something kinda like Doc Bandam, with different colors and a few extra details here and there. She wants one of us(probably me) to have a very worn and torn uniform and basically be the gofer, running off to get things and coming back singed and bruised after stealing that dragon egg or whatever. Her overarching plan is to not really sell merch, but to kinda act like semi-magical sand people, and just kinda hussle and barter random junk for trinkets and the like. A couple ideas she's had were things like, making drinkable potions that could be portioned into tiny vials for trade, getting a huge bag of cheap reject D4s and rolling them for people and giving away trinkets for high rolls, and the dice themselves for low rolls("Oh, this dice is very unlucky... You take it. I don't want it anymore."), trading "soul gems"(rock candy) for things or crushing up and "empowering" items with them, and just showing off stuff and being weird and having fun.
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Sep 8, 2018 01:04
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Arsenic Lupin posted:e: Oh. I didn't realize you were actually selling the stuff. In that case, buy cheap plastic goldfish and put them into Christmas ornaments or equivalent. No, we're not selling the actual items, we're just trading and giving away tiny trinkets, like little vials of "potions" or crappy D4s or the like. I don't think we'd actually be able to sell anything without some sort of vendor license or something. The actual stuff wouldn't be for sale or trade.
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Sep 8, 2018 02:13
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Slothass posted:I'm trying to make the Dark Helmet Safari hat from Spaceballs. if you have a Lowes around you, go to their hardware section, with the picture hangers and hooks, and look for 12 to 19 gauge wire. They have different flavors, but that stuff will do nicely. Should be Hillman brand, and sell for ~$10 a roll.
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Jun 9, 2019 04:12
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Rythe posted:Thanks for the info. Would Jo-Ann's, Michael's or Hobby Lobby have a selection? Probably not. Go with Lowes or Home Depot for the tubing, they sell by the foot in their plumbing section. For the big corrugated looking tube coming out of the respirator, Harbor Freight, or most any other electronic parts store, in their electrical section. Lowes and Home Depot might even carry it. Sockser posted an Amazon link to the stuff. What I'd do there, is buy a section of tube that's the right diameter, then fit that wire wrap over it. If it's not the right diameter, buy two lengths and glue them together on one edge to effectively make it a larger diameter.
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Jul 17, 2019 01:55
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 wow, I totally thought you were blastron for some reason. I gotta stop browsing the forums while waiting for sleep aides to kick in.
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Jul 18, 2019 00:23
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Does anyone have any good sources or ideas for replicating the functionality of the foot pad that I've seen on a bunch of digitigrade stilts? This is what I'm talking about. I don't need it to be exactly that, bit I'd like to be able to replicate the curved foot at least somewhat closely, and I'm looking for what sort of grippy rubber that is on the bottom. And of course, it has to be able to hold my weight. So far, the best idea I could think up was black iron pipe fittings. Use a T-junction and a 45 degree bend to get each end of the foot, then attach floor flanges and bolt a piece of metal to those, then attach whatever the material is. Do you guys think that would work? Or should I go a different route?
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May 3, 2021 22:16
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nielsm posted:My first choice would probably be wood for the main structural part. Perhaps attaching a thin metal plate on the sole itself. Yeah, I'll give that route a shot. the kinda-tough thing is going to be scaling the piece properly, I think. I have no official dimensions to work from. Relatedly, I found this stuff as a possible rubber layer for the bottom of the foot. I haven't ordered it yet. Anyone have any experience with anything similar? It seems like it should do the trick.
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May 5, 2021 21:39
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Sorry to sorta double post, but does anyone have a good source for expanded pvc? I'm looking for a sheet that's ~12in x 12in, and at least 3/16in(.1875) thick. I can order some in to the local Lowes, but it'll take a week as-is and I wanna shop around to compare prices. Similarly, I'm also looking for a neoprene sheet, but around 12in x 24in in size. Same deal, I can order it in via Lowes, but I want to look at options. I'm mainly asking because I don't know which online retailers are reputable, and I'm pretty sure no one local carries anything of this stuff.
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May 9, 2021 03:00
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You could go that route, sure. Though, I'd personally try to score some free cardboard boxes from like, the grocery stores and whatnot to use for practice and prototyping. And that arm is really neat, but now it makes me really wanna see a Hob cosplay.  EDIT: I'm too lazy to rehost it right now, but if you google image search "Hob cosplay", the first 3 hits show what I mean.
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Jul 19, 2022 01:41
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cruft posted:Ms Cruft and I have been working on Cruft Jr's prom dress. We finally got everything connected today! You two are good parents.
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Jan 12, 2023 00:05
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Hey, thread. I'm DIYing a close approximation of the stilts from Area 51's Digilegs, and I'm looking for a good method of securing the stilts to my legs. What would you guys do to secure them to your legs?
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Feb 3, 2023 22:59
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Clasps would certainly be easier to create than the velcro strips I was going to try to sew. I'll keep that in mind for the actual straps that I need to make. More though, I was asking about the solid black plastic sections that go around the front of the thigh, and the calf. I know that that's likely some sort of foamed PVC, or some other heat-moldable plastic, but I would prefer to work with something that's a bit easier to set up than having to create all of that from scratch. Unless you guys think that that's really the only way to go, in which case I'd like to hear about how you guys would go about that.
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Feb 5, 2023 01:18
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Dr. Lunchables posted:My wife is an OT and they use moldable plastics. Thermoplastics, I think? Look up plastics for moldable splints, they finish hard and rigid but retain some necessary flexibility, and can be easily shaped via boiling. Hmm... I'm trying to google up what sort of plastic that would be, but all I'm getting are essentially advertisements disguised as articles for various medical companies' heat moldable plastic splints. The stuff I've seen for sale was like $75+ per sheet, and it looks like the dimensions would cover maybe 1-2 parts out of the 4 I would need to make.
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Feb 5, 2023 04:38
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BigFactory posted:Is this the kind of device you really want to cheap out on? It looks like you could break something if it collapses. Yes, considering the rest of the materials that have gone into this thing currently totals out to less than $100. The digilegs from Area51 sell for something like $1500, with tax and international shipping. If I were spending that much money on this pair of stilts, I'd be absolutely ok with $100 for plastic, but at that price, I'll end up doubling the cost of the things easily. in complete honesty, I don't really want to work with heat moldable plastic, since I've had poor experiences with it. The previous pair of stilts I made used moldable plastic, and I ended up falling over in them, twice, and each time I shattered the plastic parts. Admittedly, I did not injure myself in those falls though, so there's that. But short of some bespoke(and expensive) custom solution, I'm kind of out of ideas that could possibly be cheap. I was hoping that you guys would have some ideas for some sort of either soft and flexible, or rigid and sturdy, way to attach the stilts to my legs that would survive a fall over.
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Feb 5, 2023 20:58
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Alright, I talked to my wife, and for your purposes she recommended Taylor Splint and Ezeform, both thermoplastics. Her preferred is Aquaplast, but said that it will stick to itself, so she didn’t recommend it for beginners. Thank you for the links and names, I'll look into them. I did have an idea a bit ago that I'll also look into; What if I took some very large diameter PVC pipe joints/segments and cut them up to use? They wouldn't be molded to my legs, but they'd be decently close, and then I can make up the difference with some neoprene padding I've got for another part of this project. I figure, roughly, cut the PVC in half, then cut slots for the straps to go through, then bolt the thing to the side supports? It might work, might not. Actually, this seems like a good chance to segway into the materials list a bit for this build. The entire point with this iteration of these stilts is that my previous designs were all too heavy, or were very hard to stand in, or whatever other problems. This iteration, I'm looking to reduce weight as much as possible, as well as trying to reduce friction and noise from motion, and make it easier to stand overall. A preemptive apology for lovely pictures. My workbench light tends to drown out all other light in the room, and my phone is just lovely at taking pictures. And of course, the qualifying statement that is whole project is still very WIP, and I've changed the design multiple times already, and will probably change it again. Also, I am very open to suggestions for improvements. I'll start with what I'm calling the "foot" pieces, simply because they're the parts where my feet are strapped in.  Those are primarily made of 1.5in x 3ft tube steel, cut down to 1.5ft. The L-brackets are 1in x 6in flat corner braces, which are secured to the tube steel with two 4.5in grade 8 bolts, and held in place with a 1in section of black iron pipe per side per bolt, as well as a couple of fender washers, because I purposefully cut the black iron a bit short to let me customize the width of the ankle joints a bit. I used the existing holes where possible, and ended up needing to enlarge the bolt holes, and only trim and drill a hole where the ankle joint needs to go. My plan for the rest of this part is to take a couple of small pieces of stainless sheet steel that we have in the scrap bin at work, and cut, drill, and bend them to make a foot plate that I can attach the straps to to secure my feet to the stilts. The ankle straps, which will go around the back and front of the ankle, will be secured to the corner braces. The foot plate will have adhesive backed neoprene attached to cushion my feet(and be used elsewhere). I still need to come up with a proper system to connect the braided steel tendon cable to the foot piece. Next up, the "toe" piece. So named because it's, well, the toe of the foot piece.  These are primarly made from 1.25in x 3ft tube steel, cut down to 9in. The tube steel is attached to a caster bracket from Harbor Freight Tools(~$5 ea), which is riveted to a piece of scrap steel I got from a local metal supplier. On that scrap steel, I've riveted brackets that I will use as anchor points to rivet on the actual tread material, which will be some medium hardness rubber sheeting until I find a better material to use. It's the same sort of rubber you put under appliances to reduce noise from vibration. Modestly grippy, and sturdy enough to not just shred apart. I hope. We'll see. To the "heel" of the toe piece, I've attached a bit of C-channel steel from an old project as a bracket for the bicycle spring you see there. No link for that one, sadly. I forget where I got it, but I know they cost ~$30 each, and have a spring rate of around 300lbs. more C-channel for the bottom bracket, and some 1/8in thick x 3/4in x 3ft aluminum flat bar, which I am ending up using quite extensively in this project. Not shown, is how the spring/bottom bracket is not attached to the scrap steel plate. I will be placing a chunk of neoprene between the bracket and the plate to cushion that a bit and help eliminate noise when moving. Also not shown are some form of bungee cord or other similar thing, which will keep the steel plate held against the spring bracket as much as possible. I just haven't happened upon properly sized bungee cords yet, but I'm sure I can find them. This toe piece design was lifted as much as I could, from this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjiLlz9csrE Check out that Youtube channel, by the way. The guy's got a ton of neat videos where he shows off like, various hand, leg, and tail prosthetics, and how he uses them for like, movie and video game mocap stuff and the like. Just really neat poo poo all around. This pic's just a quick and dirty of how the foot and toe pieces fit together. I plan to cut the clevis pins down to the correct length when I'm all done, to keep the profile low. I tried to keep the tube steel as long as I comfortably could, but I know that the overall length of the stilts will depend on a few factors, and I may need to trim it down some, which I am ok with doing if I have to.  next up, the barely-worked-on-so-far leg supports.  I only just got the corner braces from the foot pieces this past week, so I haven't had the chance yet to get the ankle joints correctly installed yet, so they're currently separate parts. They're primarily made from the previously linked 1/8in x 3/4in aluminum flat bar. The bent metal strips you see are 1/16 thickness of the same stuff, and were what I was going to originally use before I went "That looks like it'll be pretty uncomfortable. Better find an alternative." Still, you can kinda see what I'm going for there. some sort of semi-solid-to-solid bracing, with straps around the back side to hold me in place. For the curious, I riveted the thigh piece, as I was originally going to just leave that there, but I used clevis pins to hold the shin piece in place as a temporary thing, because it was right around then that I realized I wasn't a fan of that solution. These pics are to show how the various moveable joints will be constructed.   The riveted side may not look secured down, but it is. Those two pieces of aluminum do not move unless I really force them. The actually moving part of the joint is held together by clevis pins and cotter rings, which I bought from McMaster Carr. Overall, my goal with this iteration of the build, materially, is to try and spend as little as possible, and also to try and get as much as I can from any big chain stores. This is because if I share the design around, I want it to be as easy as possible to source and buy the materials. So far, I'm mostly on track, except for like half a dozen total pieces of metal from various scrap bins, and the like. I think I'm staying pretty well on that goal though, otherwise. I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone has on this thing so far, and I'm also happy to hear suggestions and ideas for improvements.
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Feb 6, 2023 00:54
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BigFactory posted:You’re going to injure yourself Double post, but I figure this way it's not drowned out by that other huge post. I very well might. In fact, I'm planning on it. Not intentionally, obviously, but you gotta plan for when you might hurt yourself. These sorts of projects are not, inherently, safe. But honestly, what is? I'm fine taking some risks, provided I know what they are and am able to mitigate them as much as possible. When I wrote that I fell and broke the plastic on my old stilts, that happened in a controlled environment, with me surrounded by padding and people. That's what stopped me from injuring myself. I've been working on making stilts like these off and on since 2015. Hell, check out my post history; I asked a ton of annoying questions in this very thread back then. But anyway, yeah, I might injure myself. I also probably won't. You gotta take risks, and learn the lessons of those risks. To me, if you take a risk, and you come out fine, then great! You know the lesson. And if you take a risk and hurt yourself? Well, that is a very important lesson then, isn't it?
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Feb 6, 2023 01:05
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