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Hi everyone. I'm currently making a Comedian costume from the Watchmen (minutemen) and have a question about recoloring leather. I've got some sheepskin gauntlets that turned out awesome as far as color. I spray painted them with multiple light coats. However, the glove itself remains tacky. Not like "not dry" sticky, but they have a tendency to stick to themselves. Anybody run into this problem and have a handy solution?
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Oct 12, 2013 19:04
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:53 |
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You don't need to mount them where your eye holes would be. Just use black mesh as eye holes and mount them somewhere else on your face
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Oct 14, 2015 21:15
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Wouldn't aluminum tape have hugely noticeable seams where the edges of tape strips were? That sounds like no kind of solution at all.
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Sep 25, 2016 04:48
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You should still go to an optometrist, because the curve of your iris is a metric that goes into designing and wearing contacts. If they're mis fit, you may end up blinking then out or having an uncomfortable experience. I've got all my custom lenses through optometrists, and even places like LensCrafters have been cool about it.
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Mar 20, 2017 14:05
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Look, you've gotta get your iris curve measured to wear contacts comfortably for any period of time. Eye appointments are also a good health indicator, so just make an appointment. It won't cost much and you'll have a much much much better time wearing the contacts you order.
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Mar 23, 2017 01:44
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neogeo0823 posted:Anyone know any good way to emulsify the fluid inside a glowstick? I made those bottle i posted about and they're nice, but the fluid just sits in the bottom, and I'd like to distribute it a bit more evenly. Propylene glycol is pretty cheap for a small amount and is basically just a clear gel. Should be pretty non-reactive too, for what its worth. Otherwise I'd say pectin or gelatin, but those may give off a slightly yellow or brownish color.
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Mar 28, 2017 19:24
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You can buy matte laminator pouches, should help quite a bit with glare.
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Apr 5, 2017 03:23
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it doesnt look thin to me. I think once you attach the slide latches and all the other junk it will fill out. Don't second guess your work, it looks great from the back. e: on the other hand, you could 3d print a shim of a few millimeters thickness if it's really bothering you. I've shot plenty of pistols and there's not a set width for bodies of guns, and it varies wildly from model to model. Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jun 7, 2017 |
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Jun 7, 2017 04:36
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The ones from the 90s lasted like a month at least. We're living in the future, I don't imagine they'll be worse.
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Jun 11, 2017 14:07
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I'd say go bigger. Oldman's extends down to his elbow, and yours is still pretty far from that.
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Jul 8, 2017 13:23
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fiberglass would allow a flex (though not much) along the length, provided you printed along a core. Shouldn't be a problem, because you printed with a carbon fiber core rod or two. fiberglass is a flexible and ultimately strong enough material for the length you're working with. anything beyond say 5' will be a problem, only due to the materials used. the main beauty of fiberglass is it allows a side-to-side flex that other materials dont, and should help reduce the cracking due to flex. you may end up with cracks along the length anyway, but nobody would notice, except you and whoever holds the sword.
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Mar 6, 2018 07:01
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Frame it out and sculpt using bondo? You can easily paint it then.
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May 6, 2018 18:45
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Wig? That's amazing. The whole thing.
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Feb 14, 2019 02:25
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My wife is an OT and they use moldable plastics. Thermoplastics, I think? Look up plastics for moldable splints, they finish hard and rigid but retain some necessary flexibility, and can be easily shaped via boiling.
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Feb 5, 2023 04:07
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She’s asleep now, but I’ll ask her and post back soon. No guarantees on cost, since American medical system, but I’ll see what she says.
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Feb 5, 2023 04:45
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:53 |
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Alright, I talked to my wife, and for your purposes she recommended Taylor Splint and Ezeform, both thermoplastics. Her preferred is Aquaplast, but said that it will stick to itself, so she didn’t recommend it for beginners. There is some marketed towards cosplay, running $50 for a 30x40” sheet but I don’t know if I would trust it for something so stress intensive and critical. Basically you wanna make something like the sole and back of the leg of a ski boot, right? So rigidity is important. You may also be able to attach metal splints to improve strength, without making the entire system too heavy. I don’t see a super cheap way to get this done, but overall a few hundred dollars is much cheaper than buying the name brand. e: upon looking further, it seems like the critical components are all metal frame, with something like a thermoplastic just used for bindings. If you have access to a machine shop or CNC cutter, you’d probably be able to do the metal frame relatively easily. Since you want light weight and high tensile strength, maybe boxed aluminum for the foot structure, then machine-cut aluminum or stainless steel rods for the leg bracing. The thermoplastic doesn’t need to be structural, so the cosplay stuff I linked would probably be fine. Cut out attachment points for Velcro bindings and use existing hardware for this stuff. Things like sport boot bindings or hardware for prosthetics would be up to the task. Anyway, I’ve never tried something like this, it’s just back of the envelope math. Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Feb 5, 2023 |
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Feb 5, 2023 21:53
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