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Reformed Tomboy posted:I've made chainmail armor, but people don't usually refer to chainmail when they say armor, so I'm probably of no help. Chain is so absurdly mind-numbingly boring sometimes. I did a 4-in-1 butted mail 14GA galvanized coif and mantle a few years ago, and it felt like it would never end. Rufus En Fuego posted:This, and unless the contest is divided into skill levels (apprentice, journeyman, master, artisan) a lot of the time judges think you bought your poo poo instead of made it and will cut you accordingly. I've known a few folks to document their builds very, very carefully for just this sort of thing. Nothing more fun than a judge going 'So, you bought that from X!' to a cosplayer, only to have them grin and hand him a business card 'Yeah, that's my website, neat isn't it?' Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 22, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 22, 2012 22:28 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 17:53 |
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Germstore posted:My wife and I were thinking of doing a Jax/Tara costume. Has anyone seen any Sons of Anarchy cosplay, and if so how do they handle the fact that wearing a three piece patch in public even for a fictional club is generally considered a bad idea? Do they go all out and just take it off when not on the convention floor? Or do they leave off the rockers, rank, and 'MC' patches completely (basically just leaving the center back patch and maybe the collar patches)? I think it's one of those things you just don't cosplay.
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2013 19:40 |
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Honestly, for Payday masks, I might go with sculpting a form and then vacu-forming the mask out of polystyrene. Likely be more comfortable to wear if it was that light.
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# ¿ Nov 21, 2013 18:56 |
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God, yeah. For con use, that thing's going to be absurdly heavy if you keep that sculpey. I'd probably want to do it up in sculpey and use that to make a mold and cast the parts you're actually going to use.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2014 05:56 |
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It's supposed to look like stripper stage clothing, so tacky-ish satin is totally perfect. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Mar 11, 2014 |
# ¿ Mar 11, 2014 09:59 |
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You could try something like Calimacil. They do really good looking foam weaponry that is really light.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2014 22:22 |
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For butted maile, just use a dremel. Wind a whole coil, run a line up it with a cutting bit, and you're done. I must've gone through several miles of galvanized electric fence wire making chain back in my renfaire days.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2014 17:06 |
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SusiePhone posted:Good call, I hadn't thought of that! I'll bear that in mind for the redux. There's a lot I'm not completely happy with. Hey, it'd be accurate to the cover art! :p
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2014 17:58 |
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Like a tent pole, I assume. Elastic cord through the center of the staff, connected to a cork on either end, which helps pull the two ends together. When you want to collapse it, you can stretch the elastic to pull it apart, then fold it in half.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2014 06:50 |
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Skipopatomus posted:This is so great! I've been wanting to do a Goldust costume for a while, maybe I'll actually go through with it this year. http://www.zentai-zentai.com/golddust-costume-shiny-metallic-wrestling-outfit-products-2324.html His gear's pretty easy to come by pre-made, and there's a video he posted a while back of how he does his makeup. The black version is easier to fake for a costume because you don't have to come up with gold boots. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJQ3yZ8QdhE
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2014 19:49 |
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Ashcans posted:If you are going to do this, don't use fake gold coins. Instead, go to the bank and get a bunch of Sacagawea dollars. Now you have actual coins in your coinpurse that are legal tender and you can freely use to buy poo poo and tip with, which is a lot better than slamming down your fake coins and then having to carefully scoop them back up and awkwardly offer your debit card instead. Nah, I used to sell food at Ren Faires, and we always gave those as change too. Stuffing bills into a pouch is a huge pain in the rear end, and it's just a matter of the bank dropping them through the change machine when you deposit 'em. Plus, people in the US don't think of coins as 'real' money, so they tip better.
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# ¿ Nov 1, 2014 02:58 |
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Last time I painted NERF stuff I ended up giving up and using vinyl dye instead.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2014 17:55 |
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This sounds like a job for Lego Technic bricks. Right size, made of molded ABS so they're plenty strong, and they're reasonably cheap.
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# ¿ May 26, 2015 09:30 |
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taiyoko posted:I don't know if this is something you've already considered/purchased, but if you haven't, a dance belt is probably very important so that you don't end up looking like Boner Robin. Fun fact, as I recall Boner Robin there is a lady. The boner was intentionally awkwardly packing a codpiece.
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2015 06:54 |
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McPantserton posted:I am extreeeeemely flattered to be called inspiration because this costume is looking AWESOME. You could wear it as-is and blow people away IMO, good loving work! The figures don't have to move. Strapping to a belt (usually worn beneath the torso armor) like that is how real armor is worn. The alternative is wearing chausses, essentially padded pants that the armor can be laced to. They work very well but are hot as gently caress.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2015 03:07 |
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Maxwells Demon posted:I have made a Henchman 24 outfit because I too can do the voice spot on as well. Be warned that an entire weekend of doing the voice is pretty rough on the throat. I suggest making sure you drink lots of fluids. I also keep removing clothing from the costume and nobody seems to care that it's not spot on as long as you have the goggles, wings, and voice. Yellow coroplast is your friend. Use two layers, if possible cut so the internal corrugations are at 90 degree angles for stiffness. Layer them with DAP or gorilla glue, then edge them with craft foam for the smooth look.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2015 03:06 |
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McKilligan posted:Those would be a good idea, but I can't really justify another $150 for the exclusive purpose of ring cutting (Dremel products are kinda expensive in Korea). Doing it by hand isn't so bad, though, only takes a couple of minutes. Plus, by the time I'm done, I'll be able to open any goddamn pickle-jar in the WORLD. It's not like the entire process isn't already incredibly tedious (though also relaxing and satisfying at the same time). I always used to buy 14 gauge galvanized electric fence wire by the half mile for making maille. This stuff, in fact : http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bekaert-14-gauge-galvanized-electric-fence-wire-1-2-mile-spool
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2016 08:27 |
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Anyone have a good tutorial for doing boot tops/spats? I cant justify getting good boots made, but I want something more substantial to wear than rope sandals for helping a friend vend at a couple pirate/renfaires this summer. I figure it's probably just easiest to make something I can pull on over an old pair of ropers to look like knee boots.
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2017 12:15 |
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How accurate do you want it to be? If you want to know how to make the honest to god real thing, here's an utterly exhaustive source from my SCA days: Nihon Katchû Seisakuben Anthony Bryant was one hell of a scholar, and he'll be missed. He's got other works on what was his homepage that would be useful as well. If you're looking to do it on the cheap, you can approximate something out of costuming materials using proper lacing methods, maybe plasticard or similar, or the plastic plates made to his specs, although those are more meant for SCA level heavy contact fighting than costuming. The Japanese enthusiasts of the SCA have a forum with a lot of good discussion posts on making this sort of thing. Someone else will surely be along shortly with a better and easier way of making a costume approximation.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2017 11:15 |
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Mad Dragon posted:Has anyone ever made medieval armor (European or Japanese) out of carbon fiber? I'm sure someone has, but I haven't seen it. Would be spendy, even compared to how expensive well-made steel is. The SCA never bothered with it because the standard formulation of carbon fiber doesn't hold up to blunt impact very well, and since they're fighting with rattan sticks, blunt impact is 100% of what the armor actually has to take. The sweet spot for price vs weight seems to be HDPE plastic or aircraft aluminum. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jun 18, 2017 |
# ¿ Jun 18, 2017 18:22 |
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Clothesline won't lie flat, which is essential to the look of Japanese armor. Paracord with the center nylon strings pulled out will. It'll be really narrow, though. The usual material for this is 3/8"-1/2" shoelace or braid. Others have quoted Laces 4 Less as a good source, and at $.52 per pair for 132" laces you'd be hard pressed to get paracord cheaper. Plus they have a bunch of nice colors.
Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 09:49 on Jun 20, 2017 |
# ¿ Jun 20, 2017 09:43 |
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I've had good luck with Rit's tan for making whites into somewhere between grungy and undeyed cotton. Drybrushed with a bit of oxblood leather dye (because I had it around) for some old blood stains, and it worked out pretty well.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2017 05:10 |
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Cheap and faux fur generally don't mix, but I know Joann had 1" and 2" wide faux fur trim strips by the yard when I was in there this week. It'd be shady, but for one-time use you might be able to get away with gluing them down?
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2017 02:44 |
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Silhouette posted:Take a medium grit sanding block to the edges, spray watered down RIT dye (bright yellow and dark brown) onto the surface, toss into a tumble dryer with no heat for a half hour. Then just hang it in the sun for a few months since you have time. I weathered some coveralls for a post-apoc costume a long while back that way, just left them on my deck for six months, rolling them over every few days when I thought about it. It really made the old bloodstains I was going for look good, because I could stain them in at full saturation, then get a natural fade like they'd been washed and worn a bunch since. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Nov 10, 2017 |
# ¿ Nov 10, 2017 07:06 |
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Wapole Languray posted:Okay started working on my Oscar suit, and started by trying to make mail to see if I can. On the upside it's not too difficult and the smaller amount of mail in the costume should be totally doable. The issue I'm hitting is material. I've done a fair amount of butted mail with galvanized steel fence wire. It's time consuming, and I generally aged it by throwing it on and rolling around in the dirt a while. It is heavy as hell, though, so I wouldn't recommend it for all day costume wear. Ringlord''s plastics are likely a bether bet, maybe painted with hammer finish spray to simulate rust pitting.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2018 19:34 |
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Tias posted:Hi Cosplay Thread! There was an SCA thread, but it's fallen into the archives.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2018 05:45 |
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Ashcans posted:I hand-made a pair of shoes for the SCA just once, and after I was done I swore I would pay anyone any amount of money to never do it again. So you have my admiration on undertaking that, they came out really well! I helped do this once, and that was my takeaway, too. Turnshoes are a fuckload of work.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2019 07:12 |
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Wear that gear to a GWAR show. That'll get the monster-goop weathering done in the most realistic manner.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2019 04:05 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 17:53 |
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my cat is norris posted:You could also look into 3D printing but that might take that part of the creative process more out of your hands than you'd like! Also, with this coming up, check the rules of any con you might go to. Shredder's bracers and hand blades may not fit most cons' weapon policy unless they're made of something soft and flexible.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2022 08:53 |