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Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Reformed Tomboy posted:

I've made chainmail armor, but people don't usually refer to chainmail when they say armor, so I'm probably of no help.

Chain is so absurdly mind-numbingly boring sometimes. I did a 4-in-1 butted mail 14GA galvanized coif and mantle a few years ago, and it felt like it would never end.

Rufus En Fuego posted:

This, and unless the contest is divided into skill levels (apprentice, journeyman, master, artisan) a lot of the time judges think you bought your poo poo instead of made it and will cut you accordingly.

I've known a few folks to document their builds very, very carefully for just this sort of thing.

Nothing more fun than a judge going 'So, you bought that from X!' to a cosplayer, only to have them grin and hand him a business card 'Yeah, that's my website, neat isn't it?'

Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 22, 2012

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Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Germstore posted:

My wife and I were thinking of doing a Jax/Tara costume. Has anyone seen any Sons of Anarchy cosplay, and if so how do they handle the fact that wearing a three piece patch in public even for a fictional club is generally considered a bad idea? Do they go all out and just take it off when not on the convention floor? Or do they leave off the rockers, rank, and 'MC' patches completely (basically just leaving the center back patch and maybe the collar patches)?

I think it's one of those things you just don't cosplay.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Honestly, for Payday masks, I might go with sculpting a form and then vacu-forming the mask out of polystyrene. Likely be more comfortable to wear if it was that light.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




God, yeah. For con use, that thing's going to be absurdly heavy if you keep that sculpey. I'd probably want to do it up in sculpey and use that to make a mold and cast the parts you're actually going to use.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




It's supposed to look like stripper stage clothing, so tacky-ish satin is totally perfect. :)

Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Mar 11, 2014

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




You could try something like Calimacil. They do really good looking foam weaponry that is really light.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




For butted maile, just use a dremel. Wind a whole coil, run a line up it with a cutting bit, and you're done.

I must've gone through several miles of galvanized electric fence wire making chain back in my renfaire days. :D

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




SusiePhone posted:

Good call, I hadn't thought of that! I'll bear that in mind for the redux. There's a lot I'm not completely happy with.

Yeah, I've seen so many bad cosplays, I'm determined to do this the right way!

Hey, it'd be accurate to the cover art! :p

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Like a tent pole, I assume. Elastic cord through the center of the staff, connected to a cork on either end, which helps pull the two ends together. When you want to collapse it, you can stretch the elastic to pull it apart, then fold it in half.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Skipopatomus posted:

This is so great! I've been wanting to do a Goldust costume for a while, maybe I'll actually go through with it this year.

http://www.zentai-zentai.com/golddust-costume-shiny-metallic-wrestling-outfit-products-2324.html

His gear's pretty easy to come by pre-made, and there's a video he posted a while back of how he does his makeup. The black version is easier to fake for a costume because you don't have to come up with gold boots. :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJQ3yZ8QdhE

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Ashcans posted:

If you are going to do this, don't use fake gold coins. Instead, go to the bank and get a bunch of Sacagawea dollars. Now you have actual coins in your coinpurse that are legal tender and you can freely use to buy poo poo and tip with, which is a lot better than slamming down your fake coins and then having to carefully scoop them back up and awkwardly offer your debit card instead.

I knew a couple people that would do this for SCA stuff/Renfaires, and it's something that makes a nice little touch. Although I can't guarantee that a real merchant won't hate you for handing them a big bunch of coincs. :v:

Nah, I used to sell food at Ren Faires, and we always gave those as change too. Stuffing bills into a pouch is a huge pain in the rear end, and it's just a matter of the bank dropping them through the change machine when you deposit 'em. Plus, people in the US don't think of coins as 'real' money, so they tip better. :D

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Last time I painted NERF stuff I ended up giving up and using vinyl dye instead.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




This sounds like a job for Lego Technic bricks. Right size, made of molded ABS so they're plenty strong, and they're reasonably cheap.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




taiyoko posted:

I don't know if this is something you've already considered/purchased, but if you haven't, a dance belt is probably very important so that you don't end up looking like Boner Robin.

Fun fact, as I recall Boner Robin there is a lady. The boner was intentionally awkwardly packing a codpiece.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




McPantserton posted:

I am extreeeeemely flattered to be called inspiration because this costume is looking AWESOME. You could wear it as-is and blow people away IMO, good loving work!

So thinking of fire effects, here are the first things that come to mind right away--is the part where the flame would be clear, or can it be clear? What if you tinted the clear portion with glass tint in fiery colors so it would be still transparent but not totally see-through, and put in some of those flickering flame effect LED tealights in the back maybe? Super cheap and simple, and it would be a cool special effect. Or here is Yuks General with just paint on a super fiery WoW costume that I thought actually was very effective, I don't think the costume has any lights in it at all but it looks really convincing, just a lot of shading involved.


Real talk, I loving hate thigh armor, I have really never had great luck keeping it in place except letting it sit on the top of my knee. My least annoying thigh armor was for my last Warhammer 40k costume, and I basically had a garter strap on the outer sides of my thighs to hold it up on the belt. Here's a super ridiculous photo of me getting dressed where you can see it:

The 40k figures/art don't have straps there but there's so much going on that I figured another buckle wouldn't really be distracting at all and it did keep them in place pretty well. I'm super interested to try your rubber grip tape idea, I think most of my worbla thigh plates would be too heavy for velcro but some extra friction seems like it could really help.

The figures don't have to move. :) Strapping to a belt (usually worn beneath the torso armor) like that is how real armor is worn. The alternative is wearing chausses, essentially padded pants that the armor can be laced to. They work very well but are hot as gently caress.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Maxwells Demon posted:

I have made a Henchman 24 outfit because I too can do the voice spot on as well. Be warned that an entire weekend of doing the voice is pretty rough on the throat. I suggest making sure you drink lots of fluids. I also keep removing clothing from the costume and nobody seems to care that it's not spot on as long as you have the goggles, wings, and voice.

I've made the wings 3 different times and each time I used cardboard that I then painted. I'm looking for a better solution but you can get some pretty inconvenient wings made from bike boxes. Just go to a bike store and ask for a bike box, and they might want to charge you $5 for the box or if they're nice they might give it to you for free.

The wings did not survive my last move so if you do find a plastic solution (foam seems like a bad idea) please inform this thread of such?

Said results of the costume:


Yellow coroplast is your friend. Use two layers, if possible cut so the internal corrugations are at 90 degree angles for stiffness. Layer them with DAP or gorilla glue, then edge them with craft foam for the smooth look.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




McKilligan posted:

Those would be a good idea, but I can't really justify another $150 for the exclusive purpose of ring cutting (Dremel products are kinda expensive in Korea). Doing it by hand isn't so bad, though, only takes a couple of minutes. Plus, by the time I'm done, I'll be able to open any goddamn pickle-jar in the WORLD. It's not like the entire process isn't already incredibly tedious (though also relaxing and satisfying at the same time).

Now, if I had a dowel with a crank or something that I could feel the wire into and just wind it up, THAT would be amazing.

Anyway, in case anyone was wondering, THIS:


Is what 100ft of steel looks like. It's just enough to wrap around my upper arm (not including shoulder). Another 100ft ought to be enough to cover the arm down to the wrist, so that means another 200ft for the OTHER arm, then re-up again to get enough for the legs. Fortunately, I've decided that for the legs, I'm just going to make enough to cover the front, rather than wrap all the way around. Not quite sure how I'll handle the chest area, but I think I'll make enough to cover either shoulder, then have them attached to one another via straps. There's no way I'm making a full chest of mail when most of it is obscured by the plate / tabard.

I've ordered another 300ft, we'll see if anything is left by the time I start on the legs.

I've also got to find a thinner gauge of wire so I can begin work on the helmet - this stuff is way too thick to be able to make a decent structure.

I always used to buy 14 gauge galvanized electric fence wire by the half mile for making maille.

This stuff, in fact : http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bekaert-14-gauge-galvanized-electric-fence-wire-1-2-mile-spool

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Anyone have a good tutorial for doing boot tops/spats? I cant justify getting good boots made, but I want something more substantial to wear than rope sandals for helping a friend vend at a couple pirate/renfaires this summer. I figure it's probably just easiest to make something I can pull on over an old pair of ropers to look like knee boots.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




How accurate do you want it to be? If you want to know how to make the honest to god real thing, here's an utterly exhaustive source from my SCA days: Nihon Katchû Seisakuben

Anthony Bryant was one hell of a scholar, and he'll be missed. He's got other works on what was his homepage that would be useful as well.

If you're looking to do it on the cheap, you can approximate something out of costuming materials using proper lacing methods, maybe plasticard or similar, or the plastic plates made to his specs, although those are more meant for SCA level heavy contact fighting than costuming. The Japanese enthusiasts of the SCA have a forum with a lot of good discussion posts on making this sort of thing.

Someone else will surely be along shortly with a better and easier way of making a costume approximation. :D

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Mad Dragon posted:

Has anyone ever made medieval armor (European or Japanese) out of carbon fiber?

I'm sure someone has, but I haven't seen it. Would be spendy, even compared to how expensive well-made steel is. The SCA never bothered with it because the standard formulation of carbon fiber doesn't hold up to blunt impact very well, and since they're fighting with rattan sticks, blunt impact is 100% of what the armor actually has to take.

The sweet spot for price vs weight seems to be HDPE plastic or aircraft aluminum.

Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jun 18, 2017

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Clothesline won't lie flat, which is essential to the look of Japanese armor. Paracord with the center nylon strings pulled out will. It'll be really narrow, though. The usual material for this is 3/8"-1/2" shoelace or braid. Others have quoted Laces 4 Less as a good source, and at $.52 per pair for 132" laces you'd be hard pressed to get paracord cheaper. Plus they have a bunch of nice colors.

Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 09:49 on Jun 20, 2017

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




I've had good luck with Rit's tan for making whites into somewhere between grungy and undeyed cotton. Drybrushed with a bit of oxblood leather dye (because I had it around) for some old blood stains, and it worked out pretty well.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Cheap and faux fur generally don't mix, but I know Joann had 1" and 2" wide faux fur trim strips by the yard when I was in there this week. It'd be shady, but for one-time use you might be able to get away with gluing them down?

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Silhouette posted:

Take a medium grit sanding block to the edges, spray watered down RIT dye (bright yellow and dark brown) onto the surface, toss into a tumble dryer with no heat for a half hour.

Then just hang it in the sun for a few months since you have time.

I weathered some coveralls for a post-apoc costume a long while back that way, just left them on my deck for six months, rolling them over every few days when I thought about it. It really made the old bloodstains I was going for look good, because I could stain them in at full saturation, then get a natural fade like they'd been washed and worn a bunch since.

Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Nov 10, 2017

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Wapole Languray posted:

Okay started working on my Oscar suit, and started by trying to make mail to see if I can. On the upside it's not too difficult and the smaller amount of mail in the costume should be totally doable. The issue I'm hitting is material.

The test material I bought was bright aluminum, because it was cheap and just to test making it. My issue with aluminum is it's too bright and shiny, and can't be weathered to look more battle scarred and used. But, I wonder if there is a decent alternative.

The only other materiel that would properly work would be either steel or plastic.

Stainless steel has the same issue as the aluminum, while mild/carbon steel can rust and realistically weather it's also heavy and rust is real damage to the metal that requires maintenance

Now, Ringlord sells engineered plastic rings that look perfect: as they can be painted with the same stuff you use on eva foam and are very light. My concern with them is strength. Reading some reports, they have a tendency to snap when put under stress. My use would not be a full poo poo though, only sleeves, skirt, and a mantle. I think that would work though.

Does anyone else have ehxperience making mail for constumes, particularly trying to make it look weathered or used?

I've done a fair amount of butted mail with galvanized steel fence wire. It's time consuming, and I generally aged it by throwing it on and rolling around in the dirt a while. It is heavy as hell, though, so I wouldn't recommend it for all day costume wear. Ringlord''s plastics are likely a bether bet, maybe painted with hammer finish spray to simulate rust pitting.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Tias posted:

Hi Cosplay Thread!

I'm dipping into reenacting (late iron age, early medieval scandi), and I can't seem to find a proper hand sewing or reenactor thread on the forums. Anyone knows if there is one? Otherwise I'll be posting here.

tia!

There was an SCA thread, but it's fallen into the archives.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Ashcans posted:

I hand-made a pair of shoes for the SCA just once, and after I was done I swore I would pay anyone any amount of money to never do it again. So you have my admiration on undertaking that, they came out really well!

I helped do this once, and that was my takeaway, too. Turnshoes are a fuckload of work.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Wear that gear to a GWAR show.

That'll get the monster-goop weathering done in the most realistic manner.

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Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




my cat is norris posted:

You could also look into 3D printing but that might take that part of the creative process more out of your hands than you'd like!

Also, with this coming up, check the rules of any con you might go to. Shredder's bracers and hand blades may not fit most cons' weapon policy unless they're made of something soft and flexible.

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