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This seems like this might be the best thread for my question. I'm starting to work on turning some nerf stuff into Borderlands 2 Maliwan style guns. What I can't find is any kind of guide for painting on plastic in layers. The only plastic spraypaint I can find locally now is Krylon Fusion, which I have a coat curing on a test piece. But I can't for the life of me find what would be safe to layer on top. Krylon just says clear coats won't work with it, so I thought another layer of white overtop, just using the fusion as a primer, so I could eventually clear coat it for durability. My question is has anyone overlayed Krylon Fusion with an enamel based paint like Rustoleum? Krylon is rare as hell here for anything past some basic colors, but there are tons of Rustoleum ones. Rustoleum does make a plastic primer, but the can I had ran out and I can't find anyone that carries it anymore. Hence trying with Krylon. I guess I may just have to continue to experiment, but I thought I'd see if anyone else has dealt with this before.
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Dec 29, 2014 02:09
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Squarely Circle posted:I used a base coat of Krylon Fusion (covered with acrylic craft paint) sealed with Mod Podge clear gloss spray on some plastic Christmas ornaments last year, and other than some mild crazing on a few of them where I laid the gloss on a little thick, they were fine. No issues with durability or changing the color or anything like that. I'd recommend testing on a scrap piece of plastic first, though. (I was going to say it might depend on your climate, too, but turns out you're practically my neighbor, 'sup Chandler buddy.)  Chandler!I've got an old plastic tote I'll experiment on. I did find I can order proper plastic primer from Home Depot. I'd have to get a case (6 cans) but with ship to store there are no shipping or hazmat fees. Liquid Communism posted:Last time I painted NERF stuff I ended up giving up and using vinyl dye instead. It's surprisingly hard to find locally. I'm trying to avoid ordering a ton of aerosol cans over the internet, they're a lot more expensive.
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Dec 29, 2014 22:43
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So it turns out you CAN paint over Krylon fusion if you let it cure for 7+ days. I had good results in my testing with Valspar spraypaints. Your results may vary of course. I needed a test project before working on some Nerf, so I rebranded my respirator:  Those are the replaceable particulate filter covers, not the actual cartridges. E: I did just realize not everyone in the world has played Borderlands. It's styled in the colors of one of the gun manufacturers, Maliwan. 
PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 00:00
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Mister Sinewave posted:That is amazing work. Gorgeous! Yeah, sadly if it's a lower with the same cutouts then legally the ATF could consider it a weapon. They couldn't give two shits what it's made of or its intent. If it's mostly solid plastic and just externally looks like an AR pattern then it's probably no more illegal than a blue gun. (Solid plastic training guns) No one here wishes anything bad on you Faltion, it's just that A LOT of people don't know how loving weird a lot of gun laws are, and you might be putting yourself in legal risk without realizing it. Ignorance of the laws don't make a good defense.  On topic:I've been wanting to make a pepakura mask from Payday 2 for a while now. My goal is to have it done by Phoenix Comicon, May 28th. It's not one of the default heisters, but another one of the masks... But since I should probably practice my techniques before destroying elaborate papercraft I thought I should practice. So I bought a low poly mask pattern from Wintercroft and whipped it up out of regular paper:   Oh hey that looks like poo poo. Turns out his masks need very precise cuts, and there are no tabs, tape is supposed to hold it all together. I enlarged the pattern 15% and printed it on nice heavy cardstock, manually tracing out tabs using the first mask as a guide.  That's more like it!  Much nicer lines, a lot stronger as well. Added a coat of resin inside and out, it's quite tough now. I made a triangular bar out of cardstock and hot glued it in place to hold the sides in a bit while the resin cured.  Next up I'm going to fiberglass the inside. Does it need it? Probably not, but fiberglass is cheap and I'd like the extra strength in the final one for wearing around a couple days at a con. I really need to start work on getting a pepakura model made from the game files so I can start on the final one though, to my knowledge no one has made a real life version of the mask I'll be making.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:24
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neogeo0823 posted:I'll take pictures this afternoon when I get home from work. 3 of the 4 pieces cracked in half in at least one spot. The 4th one has tears near one of the bolt points. How flexible will the resin be? I don't need it to be very flexible, but it's gotta bend at least a little bit so I can tighten it onto my leg with the straps. Fiberglassed resin is extremely rigid and strong. It doesn't flex much. Also, if you can try to find an epoxy resin, not a polyester resin. Polyester resin is what Bondo and "fiberglass" resin is, as it cures it off gasses styrene. It's extremely strong smelling and you really need a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge to breath near it. I use SmoothOn Epoxamite for my fiberglassing, very low odor and works with fiberglass very well. Get the medium cure though if you do get it, I've had the fast cook in my cup before I managed to use it all a couple times. If you're doing it outside and with a respirator I suppose it really doesn't matter. I do all this in my apartment/balcony though, so odors are a concern to make sure I keep the peace with neighbors.
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May 2, 2015 00:54
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horchata posted:So I'm trying to do a somewhat half-assed captain toad cosplay but I'm having a hard time finding the headlamp he wears. Can someone direct me on where I can buy one/a tutorial on how to make one? It looks like a small glass headlight. Like a car headlight. Maybe try searching that angle?
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May 3, 2015 05:45
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I made this a long time ago, time has dusted it and cracked the magic sculpt, but it turned out pretty good when paired with a black hoody/covering all skin up and strange head movements. The black fabric is a basic hood that covers up the edge of your face, hoody goes over it and holds it in place. 
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Jun 3, 2015 01:28
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I've finally got inspiration for a costume piece for Phx Comicon (in basically three weeks), not sure if I can finish, but I'm giving it a shot. Poor MSPaint of mask idea:  That's a rusty red color fyi. The gold and silver will be mirrored plastic inserts. I've successfully harvested from cheapy sunglasses before. Having mirrored eyes ups the creepy factor a lot. The overall color would be metallic with heavy rust effect. My thought is to use a street hocket mask as a frame, since I have an unused one right now. It's sturdy, and comfortable to wear.  I was thinking of trying worbla for this, but I've never used it before. What's the best process for figuring out a pattern? Make the shape to cover it with EVA foam first? Weird post apocalyptic looking thing would work best for first worbla experiment I figure, since any unrecoverable fuckups could be worked in as damage.
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May 7, 2016 04:42
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Meeting a man tomorrow for a sheet of Worbla, here's hoping I don't gently caress it up! Smoothed out the ridges on the mask to help make an overall smoother profile. Also started another project! Found this Nerf gun for cheap, part of their Rebelle series they're marketing toward girls. It has a pretty neat design though, I've got a 1950's ray gun look in mind for this. Naturally it has enough warnings to make Bill Ruger proud:  After some 120 grit dremeling to knock down the warnings and nerf logos on the grip, I hit it with some 400 and 600 grit wet sanding to smooth it all out.  Next up is disassembly to prime and paint the internal bits that poke out like the hammer and trigger. Reassembly after hitting the internals with black so they don't show from the outside. I'll fill in the screw holes so both sides can be nice and smooth.
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May 11, 2016 04:30
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From crappy MS paint: To first attempt with Worbla:  The eyes are cut up cheap mirrored sunglass lenses, covered to protect from scratching and for painting as the next step. Just need to smooth out the nose a bit and it's about ready to paint I think. I realize the eyes are backwards from the drawing, that's how I originally intended them to be, I drew it in a mirror view apparently.
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May 20, 2016 05:24
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blastron posted:Can anyone recommend a cheap-ish source of flexible hose of varying diameters? I need three or four different diameters, one of them ribbed: Have you tried looking in a hardware store or just online? Some of them sell tubing by the foot, might have corrugated tubing there as well. Most of the time they're fine selling a small piece of stuff.
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Jul 17, 2019 00:43
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