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You yanks can do so much cool stuff we're not allowed to down under... Technically plumbing has to be done by a licenced plumber, power HAS to be done by an electrician or your house insurance is void if it burns down...
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Jul 1, 2012 09:09
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:55 |
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One of the guys i used to work with (he retired) was a chippy before he started with national Parks. He was on site building a house, and was making up a wall frame panel on the slab before standing it up and sticking it into place. Put a nail through his hand (as in, middle of the back, out through the palm!) with the nailgun, so tried to go get his hammer to remove it. Problem was, he was very well attached to the wall frame by this point, and no matter how he tried to move it in the room he was in, he couldnt get to the point of reaching his hammer. So he sat down, had a smoke and waited until his foreman got back. 200mm out of reach of his hammer. For 4 hours.
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Jul 9, 2012 13:54
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Looking good man... makes me even more keen to get my drat build underway. The house planning/design is 95% completing (waiting on engineering and bushfire checks to finalise the design) but im stuck waiting for the god drat land developers to hurry the gently caress up and actually turn our block of dirt from a cow paddock into my own drat title. Then there WILL be a build thread, but currently it would just be a photo of a rough guess of where my little bit of grass covered in cow poo poo actually IS.
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Aug 4, 2012 13:39
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Just do what the bastards do around my part of the world, Load up the ute with rubbish, go find the nearest national park, back up to the fence, heave all the poo poo over the fence into the park and make it so I have to go and pick it all up and throw it in the bins. Fuckers.
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Jul 3, 2013 13:32
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Cakefool posted:When they clean up fly-tipping sites in the UK they go through any paperwork and prosecute anyone they find info for. Last big pile I went to clean up had the guys dole forms and everything in it. Work declined to prosecute because unless we witnessed them doing the dumping, it couldnt be confirmed that it was them and wasnt someone else stealing their rubbish and dumping it in the park. Sometimes my work absolutely floors me with the levels of stupid it will descend too...
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Jul 5, 2013 15:17
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I'm utterly staggered that conductive metal conduits are still encouraged and used in the US- those things became non compliant years ago in Australia. It's PVC or nothing over here now, and if you need to armor up a cable you 1) buy armored cable and 2) pass it through a flexible PVC conduit then feed it into your steel pipe. The only time you see metal and power mixing together now is when cables are laid down in cable trays. The main reason metal conduits got outlawed over here was we had a period where rubber insulated wire was used and its all got to that stage where any movement causes meters of insulation to crumble off the cable, and it killed a few electricians who were unfortunate enough to touch a metal conduit that was live cos of an exposed wire inside.
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Aug 29, 2013 16:08
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Motronic posted:Sounds like you had some seriously incorrectly installed conduit if that was a problem. In any reasonable scenario the path to ground should have been back to the load center and resulted in an immediate breaker trip of the affected circuit(s). Even up to the 80's, breaker boards werent actually In a box of any sort- they were literally just a sheet of asbestos with a meter, main switch and the fuses screwed to that, and the thing boxed up off the wall with 4x2's and a bunch of holes in the walls for the cable to run through- And that WAS the code! Im guessing the guys in charge of actually writing the code went "Well we're not doing THAT again" after the fiasco of the live conduits (which were rarely tied to earth) so they just stopped encasing power cables in metal. On the other hand, almost nothing is actually conduited in a domestic build- The feeds into the house are, and anything going out underground is, but pretty much everything else is just attached to the timber frames- Only exception is steel framed buildings- those generally have all wiring run through flexi conduits But we also dont let people gently caress around with their wiring over here either- You need to have finished a tertiary education course and be licenced to be an electrician here because otherwise there would be SO much dodgy poo poo in houses its not funny- I had a friend who got killed because of someones dodgy hosed wiring- for some inexpicable reason, they decided to replace their breaker array and they wired the breakers to break the neutral rather than the active- It still cut the circuits, but it meant that when he accidently slipped in his roof cavity with a power drill and put a drill bit through a lighting circuit it wasnt a dead circuit, it was live and he ate 80A until the service fuse on the wall blew (which is a slow blow fuse of course!)
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Aug 30, 2013 01:10
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This kind of poo poo is scary common too It a terrifying mixture of VERY old cloth insulated wire inside the steel conduits with black rubber insulated wire hacked onto that and then modern cable run off that. The cloth wrapped and rubber wrapped stuff doesn't have an earth, the modern stuffs earth is tied to the steel conduit which isn't actually connected to the earth of the building and the whole lot is protected by ceramic fuses without any form of earth leakage protection. Modern wiring is more like this:  Straight into the timber with a modern fusebox and PVC conduit into the ground to the supply most breaker boxes outside an industrial application are internal to the house and plastic now too- only the external box with the meter and main breaker are steel
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Aug 30, 2013 04:00
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The reason the wire and plumbing is on the outside of the wall is theres a brick wall that goes up around the whole thing thats self supporting- The timbers there purely to hold up the roof and support the interior surfaces. Its called Masonry Veneer and its probably the most common building method in Australia. Theres an air gap between the timber and the bricks. As for the insufficiently fastened wiring- I know the electrician who did this, and thats a "Im halfway thru this" photo- The top lines of wire are up to code, the bottom wiring hasnt been finished yet- hence the enormous roll of wiring to the left of shot
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Aug 31, 2013 08:44
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I'd find somewhere else to live than have a waffle slab... There was a guy in melbourne I think not that long ago who was killed when a jack stand went through the concrete into the styrofoam because someone hosed up the waffle slab and put the foams in the garage area.
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Aug 31, 2013 10:13
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hosed if I know bout the noggins- he's a sparky not a chippy. I think the change to treated timbers (the green poo poo) has encouraged less drilling and more surface stuff. Waffle pods are used a lot in Adelaide on the Bay of Biscay clay soils- any other kind of slab thats actually anchored into the ground will split a house in two as the soil cracks and heaves in summer and winter
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Aug 31, 2013 14:41
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From what Ive looked into, Wall cover or moisture barrier isnt generally used in the hotter parts of Australia- Pretty much only Tasmania and the ACT and the high country use it because theyre the only ones who get near freezing conditions often enough. I cant recall seeing it in use around Australia. Thinking further about why the wires arent drilled in, I'd say its because theres the air gap, so they are taking advantage of that, but on internal walls its all drilled because theres gyprock against the timber on both sides Thats the last one I watched getting built - Steel framed brick Veneer. The white stuff is an insulation apparently  Even there theres a bit of a damp course around the window but nothing else between the two
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Aug 31, 2013 15:34
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Just don't do what I did and managed to find the ONE bronze brazing rod some dick head stuffed into the tube of silver solder rods- things rolled around and rubbed and were all the same colour! I'm actually quite proud of the fact that I managed to braze weld a tee into a 1/2" copper line and only had a tiny drip at the bottom of one join. Then went over it with silver solder to seal it properly.
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Sep 1, 2013 00:55
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Going on the sparks flying off your chainsaw, you need to get some of this stuff http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/specialty-saw-chains/rdr/ I pulled down a tin and timber shed and it cost me a chain and a half from all the nails and dirt in the timber. And you give Australia poo poo? At least the ANTS DONT EAT YOUR HOUSE over here. Termites will tho, But Not the god drat ants!  poo poo like that sucks when you step on it in the roof of a house. Especially when the place has 12' ceilings cos that landings gonna hurt!
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Sep 25, 2013 13:02
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Seriously- It looks like its time to invest in a few Acroprops They held up our portico for about 12 months when the bearers finally rotted out and the whole thing was being held up by the rafters getting caught in the gutter- With about 500kg of tiles and asbestos sheeting nailed to it! Theyre loving awesome at supporting poo poo when your working on load bearing stuff- They use em in USAR worldwide. Failing that, Hope your good at building cribbing!
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Sep 29, 2013 00:43
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Would suck to have all your plasterboard inside nice and finished then accidentally crack the hell out of it lifting a part of the house to do the sill plate.
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Feb 2, 2014 22:21
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daggerdragon posted:While gutting and renovating my House (and it's certainly house-with-a-capital-H), I joke that every time we work, House requires its requisite blood sacrifice and it doesn't care who "donates". Every time we work on the house, somebody is getting a new bump/scrape/bruise and it is going to bleed. Every single time, no exceptions. Its the same with working on cars, If you havent bled by the time you finish a job, somethings going to go horribly wrong. As soon as the blood sacrifice is made, its smooth sailing from then on.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:42
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some texas redneck posted:Part of me wishes I'd gone for cat6, but that would have more than doubled my costs (likely tripled, since I went ultra cheap and used copper clad aluminum CAT5E cable). And at the moment, gigabit is plenty for what I'm doing (5 PCs in the house and a couple of STBs like Rokus, mostly sharing/streaming movies, with 75/75 internet). If I ever do decide to upgrade, the holes I've drilled in studs/etc will be large enough to just tape new wire to the old and haul it through, and everything terminates at a cheap punchdown panel in the closet. Add another Monoprice order for CAT6 jacks and a patch panel, and done. My new house roof is as shallow as gently caress at the walls so my new go to technique for getting into those sections of the roof is climb onto the roof with a tek gun and rip out the screws and slide out the sheet of tin and go in from the outside!
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Apr 26, 2015 12:21
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one, though I've had zero issues with the jacks I've punched with it.
(it's above my bedroom closet). I'm much happier keeping the AV receiver on my desk (that way I just have to run 1 HDMI cable + some speaker wires), but I'd still have to do the HDMI -> CAT5E -> HDMI conversion bit. And there's no way I could ever get speaker wires to the rear surround speakers into the walls - they're on an outside wall, and our roof has a pretty sharp pitch.
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You need to invest in a tungsten carbide chain for that saw- Stihl rates theirs at "Cuts through sheet steel roller doors and bitumen roofs" and my experience at work is that you can stick the drat thing into a nail and it doesnt give a gently caress, touch dirt and it doesnt flinch and stick the bar into a burning tree to bring it down to put it out and even if you pull it out and the tip of the bar is glowing red, it still doesnt give a gently caress! You can buy 4x normal chains for the price of one carbide tho
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Jun 22, 2015 13:40
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Motronic posted:I'm not talking about whatever "intuitive physics answer" you think gets cancelled out by flowing water. Thats where you just put a big thunking slow combustion stove on a stone hearth set directly onto your massive concrete slab and burn half a forest and get that 84 cubic meter slab up to temp as a MASSIVE thermal mass!
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Feb 13, 2016 07:50
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kastein posted:I've still got a hell of a long way to go before my place is as "finished" (ha, no house is ever finished) as yours. So it's a little easier for me to remember to take pictures, I think. Haha- Your not wrong there... mine a 1yr old brand new built home and ive already got holes in the ceiling that i havent gotten around to patching yet!
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Feb 25, 2016 22:29
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Filters in the return screen are brilliant. Looks like a normal return inlet but with a filter in the back of it!  Yeah my filter is loving filthy and needs changing. Between it being in the same room as a kitchen, wood fire and having two cats in the house it doesnt stay very clean, but the bonus is i can set it the AC to fan and use it to suck the warm air from ceiling level and blow it around the house. Im also glad ive got a reverse cycle/heat pump system as I can get home and the house is freezing cold, crank on the heater in the AC system and then build the fire and by the time the fire is cranking the house is warm and the fire keeps it going.
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May 17, 2017 08:49
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I thought bout stripping it out and throwing it in the washing machine, but never dishwasher- its only held in with a spline like a window screen. Tho when $25 buys you enough filter material for 2 filters, its just easier to replace it once a year and take it outside every month or so and wash it out.
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May 21, 2017 14:12
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:55 |
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I dont know what your blackberries are like, but here in Aus the black berries beat EVERYTHING. I've got places at work where 6' thick tree trunks laying on the ground have dissapeared under ANOTHER 6 feet of blackberry.
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Feb 20, 2019 12:59
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