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SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Recaro is no longer certifying their Pole Position seats are FIA 8855-1999 compliant. poo poo. They say they're looking for a field upgrade solution to fix the issue, but no ETA.

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/rm%2014-21%20final.pdf

It's not a huge deal for me because FIA seats aren't required at DE, but it's a pisser that the seats aren't as legit as they were promised. I'd be furious if I had bought these for a series where the FIA cert mattered.

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SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Crustashio posted:

A lot of people at my track have gotten their cars covered under regular insurance :shrug:

It used to be that most auto policies were written in a way that did not exclude HPDE, because it wasn't racing. But insurers have gotten wise over the years and have altered policy language to be more broadly exclusive of poo poo that happens on a racetrack. If you intend to use your regular insurance for this, you need to read the complete policy very closely - do not call and ask - to see how they define racing and other exclusions.
And you should also know that even if your policy still does cover HPDE events, many insurers will pay up and immediately drop you if you ever make that kind of claim.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

TrueChaos posted:

Does anyone here instruct? I've been asked by our club to instruct next year (with them running a full instructors course in the spring prior to the club lapping days) but I'm not sure I want to get in the passenger seat with some unknown person.

Yeah, I've been instructing for about a year and a half now with PCA. Our ITS is pretty intense and has two basic goals: 1. How to stay safe while riding shotgun (keeping your student under control). 2: How to work with whatever talent your student possesses to improve their driving. In particular, we do a lot of in-car role-playing with instructor trainers pretending to be all kinds of problem children and evaluating how you respond. If your club's training is any good, you'll do something similar.
There's no doubt that instructing adds to the risks you take at a DE, but It's made clear to us that our own safety is job #1.

So I'd encourage you to sign up for the training if it's something you think you're interested in. It should help you get over the fear of getting in the passenger seat with an unknown person by giving you tools to manage the situation. If not, there is no shame in telling the organizer that you don't think instructing is right for you.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

If you need to keep your stock 3-point seatbelt, that will limit how deep of a bucket you can go. So not EVO II - you'll probably need a "street" seat from them or one of the other usual racing seat manufacturers. Dunno if anyone here would know about CTS-V fitments, you might have to ask a CTS-specific forum.

If you're a beginner to early intermediate, your brakes will be fine with just fresh, high-quality fluid. Eventually you'll need race brake pads, too.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006


Might be passable. The important thing is the fit on you - the lap belt needs to be low and tight and sit on the top of your hip bones. The shoulder belt needs to go across your clavicle and sternum. If that belt routing allows for that fitment, it's OK.

I'm partial to german cars, but it's been my experience that most people should fit in most cars that lack a sunroof.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Here's a video that makes an excellent case for getting some instruction on-track rather than make the same elementary mistakes over and over and over again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVxi-0SxZg

Seriously, Most DE orgs would have had him driving better than that after the first weekend - two if he's a slow learner.

e: They also would have made him fix some of the brutally unsafe equipment deficiencies going on there.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

I see lots of entry-level Bell and G-Force helmets at my DEs. I have the Bell. It's fine - I think at the $250 price point, they're basically all the same.

I also know that when it comes time to buy the next helmet, I'm adding two new requirements that will force me out of the $250 price point:
1. Removable, washable interior - The current helmet lives in the garage because Mrs. Jackson won't let it in the house, even after a heavy Febreezing.
2. Integrated sound - I have the chatterbox hardwire kit installed in the current one and it's more fiddly than it should be. I'm going with real integerated earmuff speakers next time.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

The lining at the very back of the helmet should have a top seam that is not glued. The SA sticker will be just under it there.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Since we're talking about HANS, I'll share this deal I took advantage of recently:

http://www.murraymotorsport.com/products/super-sport-xlt-series-protec-hans-device-20-degree

Basically a HANS III made under license by Schroth. Half the price of a Hans III. $20 and 1 week for shipping to the US.
They also regularly have 10% off coupons around holidays, so you can get it all in for $300.

I also picked up a SoloDL and SmartyCamHD for prices I've never seen anything close to here in the US.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

BraveUlysses posted:

:eyepop: that price is almost tgtbt

It's legit, I've already received the order.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

mekilljoydammit posted:

I note that if you poke around, a real HANS III is the same price from that seller (not that I have any ojection to the Scroth one)

The guy who pointed this deal out to me tried that, but was told they can't ship the HANS-branded units to the US because of marketing restrictions. You'll have to "settle" for the Schroth if you want the deal.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

BlackMK4 posted:

Is everyone running an external GPS for Harry's Lap Timer, or is it not completely inconsistent using the built in iPhone one?

I was never happy with Harry's. OK for casual video but when it lost the GPS fix it would attempt to interpolate data and you could never quite be sure what it showed you was accurate until it got really off and you were sure it was all wrong.

My next stop was AIM solo + gopro with manual overlay. Unlike Harry's the AIM solo is dead on reliable. This is a cost effective solution (Murray's has Solos cheap, I will be looking to sell my used one soon). Downside is that you have to post-process your videos to get the spiffy data overlay.

I'm currently getting set up with AIM SoloDL and SmartycamHD. A little more spendy, but you get the data overlay automatically on your videos, and I'm expecting the same "It just works" ease-of-use I get from the Solo.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Blaise posted:

Can you run tires backwards on cars in dry conditions?

Yes.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Wrar posted:

Trail braking an older 911 is supposed to be hella tricky given the weight balance.

Can confirm. It's probably the most difficult platform to learn on. Be ready to get off the brakes and countersteer at the first hint of the rear end stepping out.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Residency Evil posted:

If I'm looking to get in to more performance oriented driving, does it make more sense to do something like a track day/HPDE or something like a driving school with Skip Barber or Bertil Roos? The PCA is running a track day at NJMP that looks interesting, but I think Skip Barber instructs there as well.

HPDE is the traditional starting point for people interested in track driving. PCA runs a good program (though I may be biased as a PCA instructor...) Skip/Bertil is usually geared towards people looking to go racing. Really anything instructed that fits your schedule and budget will be fine.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Gigi Galli posted:

but otherwise you can just show up and go in any class you want. I once saw two guys go straight in to DE4 on their second or third track days because they had fast cars. If you don't get flagged on track nobody will know, they certainly don't check in my experience.

This is gonna depend on who you run with and how much they view instruction as core philosophy vs CYA, but lots of groups do check. Specifically to avoid having Dickie Speedmaster sign himself up for the fastest run group.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

KidDynamite posted:

Any of you writing off your expenses as advertising for a business?

No, I don't enjoy being sodomized by the IRS.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

You could get the Simpson Hybrid, which doesn't really go over your clavicle at all.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Residency Evil posted:

edit: Also, is there any difference in helmets? How much do I need to spend to get a decent SA2015 rated helmet that I can use for a while?

As long as it's got that SA rating, the helmet will protect your head just fine at any price. Features, fit, and weight are what separates the cheap ones from the expensive ones. The $250 entry level ones are just fine if you don't want to spend more and they will last until 2025, at which point most groups will no longer accept them.


GoGoGadgetChris posted:

So, the Portland BMW Club does an HPDE day at the Portland International Raceway (which is a thing?!) four times a year and they say that they welcome Novices.

It looks and sounds really fun, and it would be a fun way to play with my new car, but I seriously am as Novice as it gets. I've been driving for 15 years, but never set foot on a track.

Are true beginners welcome at events like this? It seems amazing.


Yes, the car club programs are designed to accommodate total noobs in their novice groups. They will assign you an instructor to ride shotgun with you all day long and keep you out of the wall.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Everybody here requires equal restraints be available for the passenger, but the passenger can choose to use the stock 3-point if so equipped. My club will in January start enforcing a hans-with-harness rule, too. They were supposed to get a few loaner hans/helmet setups to facilitate ridealongs, we'll see how it goes.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

BlackMK4 posted:

Oh, man, I got the same belts through jamal, they are so worth it having hosed with some of the cheap stuff people have in their cars.

I generally don't get point bys, but it usually goes fairly smoothly. Sometimes you get people who seem to be blind, I need to start using the hot pit in these situations, like honda whisperer is saying.

That was pretty bad. Did you talk to the offender or the organizers after the session?

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

BlackMK4 posted:

I guess I can relink the video, but no, I didn't say anything since it was the last session of the day and for 'political' reasons.

You don't have to go in with guns a blazin'. Sometimes a simple "Hey man, I was looking for a point by. FYI, I'm running an m:ss lap but only have xxx hp so I need a little help to get it done" is enough to get the point across.

But yeah, it's not going to be much help on the last session of the day.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Zaphod42 posted:

Its a carbon fiber ceramic hybrid. What do you recommend?

A real track pad and fresh ATE TYP200 fluid. COTA is hard on brakes.

I'm running RSL29s on the F80 at the track. You may want to check with the E46 crew to see what the current recommended track pad is for that application.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Phone posted:

Do a few track days in your DD to see if you want to pursue it. Barrier of entry is a helmet, some brake pads, and probably some summer tires; roughly a few thousand bucks between stuff and entry fees. Do HPDEs before any W2W stuff.

If you decide that this is something that you want to pursue, don't try to do the dual duty thing and pretend that you're being reasonable by making a bunch of compromises by putting 800# springs on the car that gets you to and from work. Buy someone else's project for pennies on the dollar and not spend half of Sunday's sessions wondering if you're going to be able to make it into the office on Monday.

This. HPDE will give you foundational track driving skills for any kind of W2W you decide to pursue later. The Spyder is a great car* to dip your toes in to the sport, don't go out and buy a race car until you're sure you know what kind of racing you want to do.

* Just make sure you know the rules about open top cars for the group you sign up with. The Spyder's fixed roll hoops should be fine for most; but some groups just don't want open top cars at all.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Fuzz_83 posted:

Advanced students that have done 10+ days at CMP, are driving cone to cone. And I can feel the car jerk as they point the car at the next cone. It normally prompts a question like: Do you need cones to get to work in the morning or do you have that ability to figure that poo poo out. We've purposely removed cones in the braking zones and OH MY GOD people lose their poo poo... and we do it to prove a point: You're looking at the cones, not at the track and you're not looking far enough.
It happens when you start to force drivers out of their element by making them focus on other things (Like a flag, or a cone on the track). This is why I have an issue with point-bys, and organizations that teach people on how to go fast.

Ditch the cones altogether. Yes, this makes teaching the green students a little more challenging without the visual crutch, but they won't have to unlearn bad habits later if they never pick them up in the first place.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

But yes, all seasons will be a hell of more forgiving to drive in the wet.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

SRF is $$$$ and probably gross overkill. Fresh ATE TYP200 is only $$ and almost always enough. If you feel the need to splash out on this Motul 600 or 660 is an in-between option.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Crustashio posted:

Motive. Get the one with the swivel fitting (or buy your own swivel fitting). It's incredibly easy and you can bleed brakes solo.

So much this. I know 1000 track day bros who use a motive, a handful who use the two-person method and 0 who use anything else.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

It's got fixed hoops. PCA will allow it as-is, though you will want to run with the top on to avoid the need for arm restraints.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Not bad for a beginner at all. The two main things I'd coach you on are:

1. Use all of the Track. You have a tendency to hug the inside edge of the track in many places where you'd be better off using more width of the track - E.G. turns 5 and 6. Using more width means it's not as tight of a curve, which will allow you to go faster through the corner. By default, every corner should start on the full outside edge of the track, turn-in and drive all the way down to the inside edge at the apex, then track out all the way back to the outside edge. Sometimes two corners are too close together to allow a fully apexed turn for each, and then you need to compromise.
2. Slow in, Fast Out. Work on doing at least 90% of the braking for a corner while still going straight before you turn in. Then turn in. Then as you drive away from the apex you should be in good shape and able to apply more gas as you track out. This will help you get consistent turns from the corners and produces better lap times than fast-in slow-out where you come in with very late braking and spend the corner trying to get the car slowed down and pointing in the right direction.

e: Definitely sign up for an instructed HPDE event. You'll see big gains right away. Don't worry about a dedicated track car, a Golf R will be great to get started with.

SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jan 13, 2020

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

I think the pilot sport line is the best all-rounder. Can't go wrong with PS4S - it's plenty of track tire for a beginner. There are definitely tires that offer more grip for track/autocross, but they have tradeoffs in road manners you might not want to make. Once you're ready to buy a dedicated set of wheels for track tires, and have some experience under your belt, you can move up to something with more grip.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

I gave up on general purpose cameras years ago and spent the coin for an AIM smartycamHD setup. Much happier for it.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Diametunim posted:

I mowed the grass 3 out of 5 sessions at MSRC this past Monday. It honestly has me pretty upset since at any other track I'd be building a new Miata right now. How can I learn to not suck rear end while driving and properly catch over-steer when the rear end of the car start to step out? Furthermore, what's the best way to practice? Should I just drive out to an empty parking lot and start loading the car up and throwing the rear around?

How much experience do you have overall, and how much of that was with an in-car instructor?

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

net work error posted:

I briefly looked at the Schroth QuickFit but if you are using a 4-point harness you should probably also use a HANS as well right?

Schroth Quick Fit are OK to use without HANS (the ASM that makes them act like a 3-point belt in a crash also help prevent BSF and will interfere with a typical HANS). You should not use any other kind of 4-point harness at all.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Oz Fox posted:

If I sponsor a spec miata car via my business, and race it myself, can I write it all off on my taxes?

Depends. Do you enjoy being sodomized by the IRS?

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

honda whisperer already gave a serious answer, but to expand on it "ordinary and necessary" is the magic phrase when it comes to deducting business expenses.

If you're an actual professional race team, in it for profit, and have actually turned a profit, then writing off the cost of campaigning the car is definitely legitimate.

Most people trying this one trick the IRS hates, though, are orthodontists who have wrapped the car with their practice's logo and are trying to deduct the racing expenses as advertising for the practice. That's not legit, the IRS will definitely figure it out, and they'll owe back taxes and penalties.

There's also the fact that motorsports expenses are a huge "audit me" red flag, and you are very likely to have to endure audits even if you have a colorable claim. So much so that one guy I know who probably could legitimately deduct some racing expenses (a pro driver developemnt coach) never did - he flat out said it wasn't worth the hassle.

SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Sep 30, 2020

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Cota is hard on the brakes, kids



Also, don't be a dumbass like me and run your brake pads all the way down to the backing plate and then some

SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Mar 21, 2021

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Piston tops got hot enough to deform.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

I did, that's what got me to come in and swap pads. But the falloff in performance wasn't as big as you would think looking at those inboard pistons. Shout out to Motul - the brake fluid gave no fucks while all of this was going down.

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SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

got off on a technicality posted:


[*]The brakes are the weakest link. I would get fade ~10 minutes in despite being gentle (braking early, lots of coasting, etc). Made me miss my Cayman's amazing brakes. I shouldn't have to upgrade to carbon ceramics just to get through a 20m DE session :mad:


Shouldn't need CCs. Pads and fluid are really important on heavy high HP cars.

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