|
I know there are companies that sell project Mu stuff here, I'll have to call em to see if I have to wait 9000 years for a set of pads to be shipped from japan.
|
#
¿
May 22, 2018 18:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 04:13 |
|
|
Did my first day for like two years yesterday at Bedford, went pretty well apart from an exhaust leak causing incredibly rich running and eventually sounding like a tank. Had an instructor session which helped massively with drilling me to look into the apexes correctly. Also with trail braking, which again was a great help with getting faster. I still struggle a bit trying to concentrate on my lines at points with a fair amount of traffic around me but I feel happy with what I've learnt and to remember to apply it when I go to my next day. I did manage to get some footage of me catching up to another mr2 who then had a bit of a moment, he came pretty drat close to swiping my rear but I kinda feel like I was egging him on a bit which wasn't the greatest idea. No damage done in the end tho. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf7LcD2pBmE track day bro! fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Sep 11, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2018 11:38
|
|
|
Gigi Galli posted:Lol you nearly ate poo poo there. I think once you guys overtook the Porsche he was driving in his mirrors trying to stay ahead of you rather than paying attention. He's slipping up all over before he loses it. You weren't egging him on as much as he wasn't trying to drive his own line, imo. He was real close because I saw him flash by in my rear view mirror, if I was going any slower he would've tagged the back of my car. I'm lolling at me trying to wave at him afterwards, I did end up just turning the rest of the lap to a cool-down and coming in because of that. Thats my wideband which isn't working because the turbo manifold adapter gasket started to blow half way through the day. I was down on boost and the thing was running pig rich I think I went through about 3 tanks of fuel during the day haha.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2018 13:30
|
|
|
Apparently he did, to be fair it looked like the momentum still took him back across the track. But yeah, if it goes round put two feet down is a great idea. It saved me from spinning back onto the apex of a corner on a freezing cold day where I turned in way too hard on cold tyres once. I had a pal that used to run a bunch of Formula Renaults for single seater experiences. You'd get people who've never driven anything like that spin them, not put both feet down causing the engine to spin backwards and they'd always backfire out of the intake destroying the expensive carbon intake plenums.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2018 11:05
|
|
|
I finally got around to getting some of the footage off my gopro for my last day https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOe8SmjQNng This was from near the end of the day getting close to being used to the track. Honestly most of the day was a bit of a nightmare, we had red flags in the double figures. Someone would go off, get stuck in a gravel trap causing the red flag and then we'd wait for the session to start again. Obviously people were impatient so the track would open up again and people would just go hard from the get go causing another loving red flag. This happened multiple times so they had to have another briefing in the afternoon to bollock people for being stupid. This also meant the morning session was incredibly busy which made it pretty hard for me to learn the track. I got into a bit of a better rhythm in the afternoon but after looking at the footage I can see where I can improve at least. A bunch of corners where I would be holding it in 3rd instead of going to 4th so I could carry more speed. Plus I kept on turning in early in some corners, like the first one which tightens up significantly. The crainer curves are scary but fun as you hurtle downhill at 100+ through the curve and then have to line up the car for the corner at the bottom of the hill. Still was a decent enough day, this was my second time at Donington. The first day had an entire grid of caterhams turn up and one of my calipers bleed nipples broke so I didn't make it past the morrning session. This time the car was perfect, although I need to raise the front a little and get it aligned again. I might see if I can do one more day this year if I can find the time and the weather doesn't get much shitter.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2018 14:53
|
|
|
Speaking about brakes, are wilwoods decent enough for track use? I've been eyeing this kit to replace my current setup which is some weird knockoff wilwood on the front and standard rears. Current setup works ok balance wise but it's a pain to get spares because it's pretty much a one man band operation and the guy's pretty hard to get hold of if I need new discs or we. On the plus side the caliper takes a willwood pad, but it's a pain to find matching compounds for the stock rear brakes. At the moment I run Carbotech xp10 With that willwood full kit pad choice should be much easier and also the discs are just a standard size that bolt up to the bells, same goes for the caliper parts. The same guy does a stoptech kit but nobody seems to sell the bare calipers here in europe, or as far as I can see. I mean the worst tracks I found on brakes were Bedford with multiple 100mph+ stops and Silverstone. But I'm planning to go to Spa this year which also has some big braking zones. I thought about going back to the standard calipers but they love to stick and that was one of the reasons I ended up replacing the fronts in the first place.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
I can't fault carbotech over here for service tbh, they have a european base and they pretty much told me what you said about being able to cut pretty much any pad shape. That company gives you the choice of either caliper and even recomends the Superlites if you want to use em on track anyway. I'd be just buying the bare kit anyway and just source the other bits over here. I might just see if they can quote me for how much it would cost with shipping for the bare kit with just the stoptechs though.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2019 22:34
|
|
|
I had a great day at bedford on Saturday that I only booked onto at the spur of the moment and unusually for a saturday it was a very quiet day with only 40 cars turning up for a day at a 4+ mile circuit meant no traffic and more opportunities to push. Near the end of the day I was pushing pretty hard until I think the brake fluid started to boil, this was after about 30 minutes on track. The pedal went very soft with little retardation near the end of the lap, luckily there was a lot of runoff and I kinda felt the brake pedal go funny on the corner before. I decided to do a cooldown lap and the pedal slowly came back to me and by the time I'd pulled back into the pits it felt like normal. Does this sound like the fluid boiling? Normally pad fading has the pedal feeling solid but with gently caress all braking. Tbf I'm not that worried because I got so much seat time on a track with multiple 100mph braking zones, some one after the other and this occured right at the end of the day. I'll look into changing the fluid to something better anyway. I even have footage of it, although it's not that exciting to watch. After that I ended up blagging a passenger ride with someones S2 elise on quantum dampers with R888R's, I was very impressed on how much more momentum he could carry through corners though. Kinda made me want an elise, although god I hate the interior and the massive loving sills they have. track day bro! fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Mar 28, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2019 11:39
|
|
|
Gigi Galli posted:It definitely sounds like boiled fluid or your brake lines flexing heavily. Possibly both. Are you running rubber lines still? The fronts are braided but the rears are still standard thinking about it, or as far as I can remember.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2019 13:54
|
|
|
Have a feeling it may have just been standard stuff as I had a bunch of work done a little while back and the brakes needed bleeding. I usually go for ATE Typ 200, which will be what I'll use
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2019 12:21
|
|
|
I don't get why you'd even want to do a trackday with passing in corners. If you want that just go to a drat testing day instead, it's bad enough when you get race teams turning up to a normal trackday.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2019 21:20
|
|
|
Geez thats like 148c, I thought mine topping out around 130 degrees before adding an oil cooler was bad. Definitely look into an oil cooler and some nice ducting to feed it, I ended up putting mine in the location for the standard intercooler so it has a nice feed of air coming in from a vent.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2019 09:53
|
|
|
What gopros are ya'lls using I've got a Hero 3 something which works ok, but depending on the conditions it can make the picture look very washed out. Dunno if it's because the interior is pretty dark compared to the light coming in from the windscreen. I noticed you can get refurbished Hero 6 black ones for a decent price but I wonder if they'd be any better. Then I could maybe stick the 3 somewhere on the outside of the car track day bro! fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jan 15, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2020 15:01
|
|
|
SlapActionJackson posted:I gave up on general purpose cameras years ago and spent the coin for an AIM smartycamHD setup. Much happier for it. I don't think I do enough trackdays to warrant an 800 quid camera though
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2020 15:11
|
|
|
I wouldn't class Touristfahren as a trackday though, more of a freeforall. Like I wouldn't take my personal car on a Touristfahren session, but I would do with the cheapest possible ring rental. Every time I check the deposits for anything slightly fast is insane. I'm hoping to at least do an actual trackday at the ring this year, or maybe spa if I can't make the ring. But it didn't help that I crashed my car at donington park last year.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2020 15:27
|
|
|
Mines been pretty reliable apart from the washed out thing, I never knew they were so flaky. I just bought a bunch of duracell batteries for mine and swap em out during the day.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2020 22:20
|
|
|
Apart from the cage wouldn't you just be better off reshelling it. I wonder if the NC has a similar ice mode as i've been helping a friend build an nc track car. At least it wasnt yer fault, last year I managed this   spun backwards across the track and then into a tyre wall after about 15 minutes of running.Luckily I went into it pretty straight and had scrubbed off most of the speed so the damage was all cosmetic barring a tiny leak of the chargecooler system. Still was pretty embarrasing, but it was to be expected one rear wheel on the grass and the front of the car loaded up. Could've been worse! It couldve dug into the gravel and rolled haha. Car is all fixed and back on the road now but covid and motivation has stopped me doing anything this year. I wanna at least do one day at the Nordschleife and maybe Spa then maybe I'll get rid of it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2020 04:32
|
|
|
My car sticks out like a sore thumb on the road anyway so it's not like the huge SQUEEEEEEE noise it makes when coming to a stop makes much of a difference. Getting some proper heat through the brakes stops it but you never get that from road driving. I really need to pull my finger out and book a TD soon
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2021 12:54
|
|
|
It's kinda not so fun when almost half the trackday turns up with full on race transporters, the day I crashed on was full of ex-Touring cars, Ferrari challenge, radicals etc and it wasn't very fun constantly having eyes on your mirrors. Part of the problem is that theres been a lack of actual race test days so some teams just sign up for a trackday and then pinky swear they won't do timing except they just ignore it and sit there with transponders and data logging. I did a day that included an entire grid of Caterham Academy cars because the series final was on the weekend after.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2021 14:16
|
|
|
On the oil cooler front mine was an earls unit which came with the engine I bought years ago to be rebuilt. I ended up fitting it where the std SMIC went as it would get decent airflow. This was fine for a few years until my last day in December where the actual core cracked. I’ve replaced it with a mocal unit and will also add some rubber mounts as I think vibration over time killed it. I kinda assumed if the intercooler was mounted there it would be fine for the oil cooler too. To be fair the old core was probably around 10 years old as it came out of a car that had been imported from Japan but had the ecu stolen. So the po just stored the whole thing until I bought it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2022 12:37
|
|
|
You people aren’t helping me not look at used GT86/BRZs Theres a nagging feeling I get that tracking a 30 year old turbocharged car isn’t the greatest idea, especially as the drat thing has started to appreciate in value. Just kinda annoying that the prices on GT86s hasn’t dropped as much as I’d like, kinda hoping when the GR86 comes out here they might drop a bit more.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2022 15:50
|
|
|
Phone posted:That’s more of used car prices are dumb as hell. Unfortunately the GT86 is still kinda pricey, NC Miatas crashed a little bit. I could pick up an nc for gently caress all here, but after replacing the entire suspension (front & rear subframes, all the arms hubs and brakes) on my friends nc I don't want one. I did drive it on track for a bit, it was fine. It's not stock it's been tuned for 200hp with cams and manifold. With the oe billstein shocks, mazdaspeed springs and some sort of combination of rx8 sway bars. Was on lovely toyo street tyres though. Main thing I don't like is the weight over the front. I'm so used to the pointyness of the mr2 with not much weight on the front wheels. I dunno he's got some avon track tyres now which are cast offs from the nc race series here so maybe that will help. E46 is too old, I could probably budget for a e92/90 m3 but those could get expensive fast. M135i would also be another option, but I can't stand em. Other options would be Cayman/boxster, but the ones i'd be looking at don't seem much faster on track than the mr2 is really. Plus I don't like Porsches that much. We also have the option of renaultsport stuff. If you come to a trackday here you will have multiple mx5's, caterhams and renaultsport clios/meganes. I would say the meganes are pretty much the French Integra Type R, especially some of the cup chassis models. But again it's another car I respect but I don't see myself spending money to own one. But what about a lotus elise? Well after doing a passenger ride in one, I was amazed by how effortless it was but also realised how poo poo it would be to use on the road. I was bumping shoulders with the owner the seats are so close together and neither of us were that large. Also the S1 cars are silly money now and the S2's are getting there in price also. DC5 Itr would be possible but they are getting on with age and not much cheaper than a GT86. S2000 is the same with AP2's costing as much as a GT86 but much less practical older car. Basically tldr I convince myself with lots of  that I want an 86/BRZ lol
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2022 21:51
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I don't think you guys got the AP2 with the 2.2 so I see no reason to not just shop for an AP1. The rear subframe geometry change is a small thing and the 4 channel MK60 ABS in the DBW AP2 is a nice little upgrade, but other than that the AP1 is still pretty great. The things are pretty easy to put a K24 into if you want more power or you pop the F series, used motor prices just straight aren't worth it unless you're an absolute purist. Yeah they both have the 2.0 engine, just having a quick look at the classifieds the cheapest AP1 is about 9 grand with closing on 170k miles. You’ve also got to remember I live in a wet country where we love to salt the roads so it’s probably going to be rusty underneath. For a nice one that hopefully isn’t full of rust you’re looking at 15 to 20 grand. For 10 grand I could buy a Megane 265 Cup which would be 10 years newer, has 100,000 less miles on the clock and would be much faster than most S2000’s out of the box. Realistically I missed the boat on S2000’s here when you could buy a lowish mileage AP2 for about 8 grand. I’ve heard stuff about ABS doing weird stuff in the 86/brz, what was it? Ice mode or something? I’m moving to a slightly more rural area soon hopefully, so maybe I can find a better lockup than the current one I keep my car in. Then I might have the option just to buy something like an MX-5 Supercup NC, or an MR2 challenge car for cheap and buy a low loader with the rest of the money. Then I’d have the option to get a racing licence and embarrass myself in actual motorsport. track day bro! fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Apr 27, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2022 22:37
|
|
|
I swear I get jealous when I see the undersides of the cars where you are. Mine isn’t so bad because I had all the suspension arms and subframes powdercoated when I re-bushed everything. But even then thats started to look a little crusty in places, even after years where it gets put into storage before the salt goes on the roads. My pal bought the cheapest NC2 PHRT in the country and when I mean country it was pretty much one of the most northern parts of Scotland. Every time I’d help him with the drat thing I swear I ended up shearing multiple bolts it was so bad. The ice mode stuff sounds scary, I guess do you have the option of pulling the abs fuse? I mean this is coming from someone who’s car doesn’t have abs at all though. I’m surprised there are no aftermarket solutions for it? TheBacon posted:Move to the superior southern part of the country I live in the southern part of the country though….
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2022 23:05
|
|
|
Donny is a big boy track, it's also where I managed to crash. The down hill chicane part (called crainers) is no joke. I put one wheel on the grass there with the rear wheels unloaded with a bit of lock. The car switched ends instantly and I went into the tyre wall on the other side of the track backwards.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2022 15:05
|
|
|
I’m definitely going to be replacing the mr2 with a GT86/BRZ as soon as I can sell it. Definitely want to take the car with just pads and fluid to the track with whatever tyres first. But after that the choice of parts is insane in comparison. With the SW20 I really knew what worked well and what didn’t and the fact the aftermarket is pretty small. Aside from the obvious map/manifold for the torque dip I’m not sure what else is really necessary. Wheels and tyres are the first thing I’ll be looking at. Like with the SW there is one single suspension geometry kit, whereas has GT86 so many different suspension arms etc. Going to be getting a facelift car, would really like the club in that nice blue but most of those are too new and maybe a bit too nice for what I want it for. Also is it true you can actually fit a set of wheels/tyres in the car? As that would be amazing with the changeable weather we have here.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2023 15:44
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, a second set of 17x9 wheels with 245-255s on them fit easily in the back of the car. You don’t do staggered setups on these at all I’m assuming. There’s a reasonably priced AP Racing brake kit that’s available here for a decent price that fits 17’s but I wonder if it’s needed. Only thing I’m worried about is TPMS which has to be working for inspection here. But it looks like you can buy a tpms coder and the oem sensors can be cloned. There’s a company not too far away from me that sells the Harrop SC kit but I dunno if I’d ever do that. Last day I did there was a dude with a turboed 86 with an automatic which I was pretty impressed how fast it was.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2023 17:29
|
|
|
I was gonna ask about oil coolers. I’ve got one on the MR2 and on tracks with long straights it’s definitely worth it as it bought oil temps down quite a bit. Wasn’t sure if the GT86 needed one unless you went FI. Oil grades on these cars also seem to set of a bunch of internet arguments, lots of people saying if you deviate from like 0w20 the motor will explode
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2023 17:50
|
|
|
I went with Cup2's on my 86 and now I feel like they are probably overkill for a standard car, well I'll find out on Monday as I' m doing my first day on Monday at Brands Hatch I kinda wanted to try the car on track with the primacies at least once but even with under 9000 miles on them from factory after 6 years they were just complete crap even on the road. Then I ended up putting the optional Brembos on and now the standard wheels will never fit. When I was tracking the mr2 people were saying avoid PS4's on track as apparently they didn't hold up once you started getting them properly hot. But then I found out quite a lot of people use them on track with 86's here, just wish I'd realised that before I'd went out and gone with the cup2's.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2024 13:21
|
|
|
I'm hoping they won't wear that badly on an 86, although tbh they weren't that bad price wise here. Like maybe a bit more than a full set of ps4's in the same sizes. Gonna be doing my first few days on completely std suspension in this car anyway, as it seems silly to just start throwing parts at it. Although I have done a few things which are just cooling and braking related so you know, the basics. I do have a set of KWV3's to go on down the road, but I'll need some other bits and bobs to get the camber I want out of the car anyway. Then maybe I'll go with a set of AD09's as I really liked the old AD08R which I really liked on the mr2 and they wore pretty well.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2024 14:04
|
|
|
That might be something I try after this trackday for a quick fix. The front should let me get over -1.0 at least not sure about the rear though as it's multi link. With the KW's I was going to go with some offset upper mounts along side crashbolts and the rear you normally get an aftermarket RLCA to get camber dialled in as if you lower it the car naturally gains camber.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2024 15:18
|
|
|
Didn't have a brilliant first day out with the 86 at brands, ended up with horrible vibration when braking after getting heat into the brakes which just meant I barely got any laps in. Even after pulling out the front pads in the garage nothing looked wrong with them or the rotors visually. Scuffed the pads up and went out again and the same thing happened. I thought maybe I hadn't done the bed in process correctly and maybe left pad deposits on the rotor, I did the same thing that I usually do with the carbotechs I used on the mr2. Which was get up to around 70 ish and then brake fairly heavily down to 30/40mph a few times and then keep driving to let everything cool back down. I'm now wondering if maybe I didn't leave enough time for the rotors to cool. As when I pulled up the brakes were still hot, like not untouchable but there was still a bit of heat in them. Someone else also suggested that it may be from not having hubcentric rings fitted to the wheels so as the brakes heated up it was causing the wheels to become unbalanced. Really not sure about that, although I always ran them on the mr2 previously as without them I'd get a lot of vibration through the steering driving at motorway speeds and not just under braking. I've ordered some anyway as they don't cost too much. It's a bit frustrating because it's going to be very hard to replicate the issue on the street as it really took a few laps of driving for it to start happening. This was with a set of PMU Club racer pads and brembo rotors, if it is deposits I hope they can be resurfaced because they are fairly hard to get hold of. As the only other options for rotors would be from DBA which cost even more or from toyota/subaru which are even worse. Obligatory photo 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 13:50
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:The car looks great, sorry to hear it is being a pain Honestly I feel like the pad compound was fine, it was just when the steering and brake pedal start shaking badly I just started backing off as it didn't feel like you could drive through it. Just checked and apparently rockauto ship internationally? Also the price is showing in £ so it might be worth it just have to see what the shipping cost is. What brands are good because I've not heard of most of these apart from centric.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 16:58
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I just run the cheapest Centrics, they've been more than fine for me. Just checked the shipping and it's about £100 but even with that it's still working out cheaper as the discs are nowhere near as expensive. I mean I'd hope not because the car only has around 10,000 miles on it, also the fact that if you let the brakes cool down a bit the issue would lessen until you started getting more heat back into them. I'm really hoping it's just that I hosed the bed in process really, but I'm going to have someone take a look at it who did the rollbar install on my friends NC. The dude had prepped a couple of the other cars that was at the same day, so maybe if it's just pad deposits I can get the discs turned and then try and re bed them in. But maybe I'll just order a second set just in case.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 17:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 04:13 |
|
|
Went and ordered the correct DBA discs as they were available, although shipped from poland so didn't have to wait for them to come. Now just wondering if I should stick with the PMU Clubracers, or switch to another compound. Tempted to go back to Carbotech XP8 as I used them for close to 10 years on the mr2 and had no issues, but I got fed up of them on the street being so noisy and dusty. Maybe an option is to buy a set of their street compound alongside the xp8 and just swap them over as apparently that is ok. Someone also suggested Pagid RS29's, or maybe I should just go with DS2500's as maybe I don't really need a super aggressive compound with how big the brakes are on this car. I was going to go with the DS2500's initially as I've used them once before and they weren't bad, but for some reason they were like close to £150 more over the PMU's for a full set. I haven't had a chance to pull anything off the car really especially since my ancient jack fell apart so I need to buy a new alu one that I can lug with me to tracks.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2024 17:08
|
|