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Zellaby posted:Basically, the other thing I get frustrated with at the moment is being unable to take indoor general snaps without a flash. Am I right in thinking that the prime I'm looking at should assist with this? Yes, it will, but consider that on a crop format sensor, 50 mm is rather long, and indoors areas tend to be more cramped than ourdoors. A longer lens means you have to be further away to get the same subject coverage. It'd be fine for portrait-ish things, but bigger scenes can be tricky, e.g. the family in the couch or so. You'd probably be happier with a wider lens, Sigma has a 30mm f/1.4 at a reasonable price but probably outside your current budget if you also want a longer zoom. I still don't think Canon has anything really equivalent.
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Jan 21, 2014 21:51
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I'm pretty sure Fuji has already been doing a sort of dual-ISO capture for years. But nobody uses Fuji cameras.
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Jan 31, 2014 13:33
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SoundMonkey posted:Kingston is good but I'm superstitious as hell and generally stick to (non-counterfeit) SanDisk and Lexar. Kingston is still a good brand though. Don't know about Kingston's CF cards, but I bought a Kingston SDHC last year, marked Class 10 (which supposedly means 10 MB/s writes?) and it's horrible. My D80 routinely spends 3-5 seconds writing an 8-10 MB raw, and if I burst 5 pictures I'm stuck being unable to shoot for 10 seconds. Those 10 MB/s don't seem very realistic, at least.
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Feb 10, 2014 03:22
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SoundMonkey posted:...assuming it wasn't counterfeit Purchased it in one of the biggest brick-and-mortar electronics chains in the country, so that would be surprising. ante posted:http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=918 But then that's worrying.
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Feb 10, 2014 13:03
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El Grillo posted:I'm having a lot of fun experimenting with an old olympus om10 - I've just been using the standard 50mm zuiko lense so far but am keen to get a couple of others. I think it's not really "auto-zoom" as much as it's both "auto" and "zoom". It's a zoom lens, and it allows the camera to operate in auto-exposure mode, by having some sort of coupling between camera and the lens' aperture control.
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Mar 26, 2014 19:26
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Must it be a full manual flash, or can it be for a particular system? Because I don't think you will find anything with proper manual power controls at compact sizes, without it being tied to a particular system. E.g. Nikon's SB400 can do manual control, but it has to be configured through the camera menu. Outside that I think you'll only find thyristor-auto flashes.
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Jul 13, 2014 20:35
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You can probably get more camera for the same money if you buy in China instead of at home.
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Jul 23, 2014 20:51
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Paul MaudDib posted:Also apparently they actually had it shooting/saving full 240fps video files during development, to debug their auto-shot feature. They say they didn't release it as a feature because there's no demand for it. BonoMan posted:If it's as simple as having it turned on.... why not just leave the feature on? Possibly because data rate. With 4:2:0 encoding (YV12) the data rate would be around 80 gigabit per second, which you might be able to reduce to 1 or 2 with a good hardware encoder. If you can build one able to handle those rates. You'd still need a massively fast storage to actually store the recording. Something like 200 megabytes per second, for the compressed video. (Edit for quotes.) nielsm fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 22:34
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Pablo Bluth posted:You can also skip the computer by connecting the camera direct to a USB printer. The problem is any sort of ability to archive files for later reprinting. Most photo stores here have those self-service printing stations with memory card readers etc., the main disadvantage being that they usually can't handle raw files. I'm sure the staff at the place could also help with getting memory card contents moved to a DVD, in addition to getting prints of it. And otherwise get a Canon Selphy for making 10x15 cm prints straight from camera.
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Oct 16, 2014 09:05
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visuvius posted:Is the Tamron 17-50 2.8 still basically the best, affordable all around lens? The OP says its the best one to replace kit lenses, I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right one without VC. Is it this: Yes that's the one. Apart from trying to have "all-purpose lenses", I think what is more important is to consider why you're bringing your camera whenever you do. Consider what you'll be shooting and bring just the lenses suitable for that. And accept that there might be a few photo opportunities you lose. Consider that if you bring a long lens, you can often make up for the lack of a wide by using your phone camera, but your phone camera can't well replace a long lens you didn't bring. Also try looking up the "Pro Photographer, Cheap Camera" series from DigitalRev on Youtube. Might help convince your sister that equipment isn't all.
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Mar 9, 2015 22:08
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I went halfway through with a purchase from KEH, when they asked me to "verify my credit card" by sending a photo of it. That's when I decided I didn't want to do business with them.
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Apr 23, 2015 16:22
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Nikon's pro-er bodies can definitely meter with anything, as long as the camera is in aperture priority mode. If there isn't anything pushing the AI tab, the meter assumes the lens is as open as it will be when the picture is taken, and expose according to that. Configuring the lens focal length and maximum aperture on the camera is only necessary for matrix metering (and perhaps non-center focus confirmation) to work correctly, and to show the chosen aperture in the display. You can test this by unmounting the lens, setting the camera in A mode, and then pushing the AI tab. Notice the meter reading and aperture value in the display changing. Apart from that, you could mount a pringles can with magnifying glass glued on, and auto-expose all day. My D700 is definitely also capable of stop-down metering with non-AI lenses. If I push the aperture preview button, the aperture lever disengages, the meter continues working, and the AE-L symbol lights up. I assume it would result in a non-AI lens stopping down and the meter reading correctly. The Nikon bodies without an AI tab instead just have a small button-tab on the side of the lens mount, that only gets depressed when a CPU lens is set at the minimum aperture. This lets then display fEE without full mechanical AI support.
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May 2, 2015 11:44
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Ineptitude posted:Why did you go on a tirade about UV filters. The dude asked about clear glass filters, not UV. They're essentially the same thing.
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Jul 29, 2015 09:03
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Do any cameras from any manufacturers have programmable sorts of autofocus that can be told e.g. that the subject is behind bars/a fence/some other foreground object hard to avoid, and to avoid focusing on the foreground object?
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Jul 31, 2015 21:26
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I'd recommend an FM2, if you can live without aperture priority they are pretty cheap and tough as hell. The metering is the simplest one out of the manual nikons I've ever used, they also don't need batteries except for the meter. I upgraded to a F100 but still miss my FM2. Seconding FM2 (or FM2n for an improved shutter mechanism), it's a very solid camera, controls and feels great.
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Apr 16, 2016 07:56
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I believe that "a better 18-55" is still the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 non-VC.
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Jun 30, 2016 16:54
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I'm interested in getting a camera specifically for video, mostly of my birds and other inconsequential things. (I'm not planning to become an internet superstar with it.) Just to have something more flexible than my phone camera, and definitely with longer focal length/decent zoom ability. My range is up to about €300. I've considered getting an additional Nikon DSLR to take advantage of my existing lenses (none of my DSLRs have video capability) but even a second-hand D3200 would be near the upper end of what I'd like to pay here. The DSLR option is also rather bulky. Otherwise I've looked a bit at camcorder-style cameras, and then compact cameras. I like the camcorder form factor, but don't know if any of the lower end of those are actually worth using. Any suggestions? nielsm fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Mar 8, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 17:04
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I've looked up a few reviews of the lower end of current Sony and Canon camcorders and it sounds like even those are quite good. When I mentioned birds I mean pet birds, not wild, so even 90 mm equivalent focal length is fine, it would actually be autofocus that could be the main challenge. Thanks for the suggestions of Corel Videostudio, I've wanted a basic NLE for a while, that wasn't Windows Movie Maker, and not requiring an Adobe CC subscription (I'm fine with just my purchased Lightroom 5) or a Mac. I'm installing the trial now.
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Mar 16, 2017 17:53
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8th-snype posted:You could get a light stand with a boom arm if you are gonna do something lightweight. The cheaper ones are a pain to use though so bear that in mind. Personally I'd get one of these http://a.co/frvwHzk and mount it to a beefy tripod or ladder. I have a pair of them and they are pretty sturdy. Yeah light stand or microphone stand with boom arm. I've previously jury-rigged a webcam to a mic boom with some duct tape to record some pen-and-paper interaction design sessions, and it worked fine.
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Apr 27, 2017 07:57
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um excuse me posted:Each shot costing money is a good way to start to learn to take a single shot per motive which then in turn forces you to spend a lot of time setting up the shot which forces you to focus on the details and goes on from there. And then you learn that famous Henri Cartier-Bresson with his "decisive moments" more like spent one roll of film per motive and just picked out the single good frame.
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Sep 20, 2017 17:26
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spog posted:As I think I mentioned elsewhere: it seems flash memory costs the same per GB, regardless of format Years ago I saw a thing that was an SD card in one end and a USB plug in the other. Can you still get those?
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Nov 11, 2017 10:21
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For indoor photos you have a few options: 1) Get a modern, rather expensive camera, that can do high-ISO pictures with low noise. 2) Use a tripod to make longer exposures than you reliably can handheld. 3) MORE LIGHTS! Actually looking at your current photos, you're already doing very well having the set-up right by a window, so there might not be a lot to improve on it. I think you'd be fine buying any 5 year old used DSLR with a kit lens. I don't think any model introduced after around 2008-2010 is outright bad, so really just get whatever. If you have the option to buy/get new, any current entry-level Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax DSLR is a fine choice. I don't have any experience with mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras but those are probably also good for your purposes. They're definitely more compact and lower weight, but I have pretty large hands and want my cameras to fill them out. As for macro, a good rule of thumb is that non-macro lenses have a closest focus distance equal 10 times to their focal length, so a 50 mm lens will have a closest focus of 500 mm = 0.5 meter (1½ ft). You probably won't get good results with a zoom+macro lens. Use a decent zoom lens for general purpose, and a dedicated macro lens for when you want close-ups.
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Dec 10, 2017 09:42
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The classic compact camcorder format is more comfortable for longer handheld recordings, IMO. I bought a cheap Canon Legria a while ago, and it has absurdly good stabilization. It pretty much sucked away all my desire for a DSLR that can do video.
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Mar 5, 2018 22:03
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Nikkor Ai lenses are what you want for Nikon FM, I'm quite sure FM doesn't support the original rabbit ear.
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Jun 23, 2018 23:59
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Steve Yun posted:Looking for a videocamera to do clean product videos, twirling on turntables and maybe toys walking around.
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Oct 2, 2018 12:09
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