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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Stochastic posted:

I'm looking to purchase another lens for my Canon T1i. So far I have the 18-55 kit lens, the Canon 55-250 IS f/4-5.6, and the Canon 50 1.8. After playing around with this setup for a couple of years, I landed my first paid gig taking photos for adult sports leagues (kickball, flag football). It's a casual deal and doesn't pay a whole lot, but it should enable me to upgrade my equipment a bit.

I'd like to get a lens that will produce sharper photos than the 250 zoom that I already have, in a similar range. This lens would be used for the sports photography I mentioned above, as well as wildlife photography. I'd like to keep it in the $500 range, which I know will limit my options. So far, I have my eye on the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD as my best option.

Can anyone speak to the increase in image quality a lens like this would provide over my current 250mm zoom? Are there any other options that I should consider in this price range? A really killer lens that can be had for just a bit more money?

The tamron above has a rebate that expires tomorrow.. it's making me want to pull the trigger now before I've done my research!

It's nothing special.

the digital picture posted:

Center of the lens image quality slowly degrades through 200mm - remaining usable. Stopping down provides only slight improvement in center of the lens sharpness. Corner performance worsens by 100mm but then holds through 200mm - remaining reasonable. Again, stopping down provides only slight improvement in sharpness.

By 300mm, this lens delivers poor image quality across the frame (except on the far left side of the frame). Stopping down at 300mm helps, but even f/11 image quality is only marginal. If you consider this a 70-200mm lens, you will be more happy than if you are counting on getting great 300mm image quality. . . .
The Canon lens most comparable to the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD Lens is the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens. The Canon's advantages include modestly lighter weight, better AF accuracy, less vignetting and less pincushion distortion through 200mm.

The Tamron's advantages start with a much better price (with the lens hood included). The Tamron's AF system is nicer with internal-focusing, FTM and no filter rotation during AF. The Tamron has modestly less flare, less barrel distortion at 70mm and modestly less pincushion distortion at 300mm.

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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

phootnote posted:

I only have a 50mm 1.8 right now.

You'll need wider. The 35mm mentioned may not be wide enough for this, but it's a good choice, right at "normal" on your camera.

I'd suggest a 24mm, though, for that specific shoot, to complement the 50mm.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

low-key-taco posted:

How would that 85mm 1.8 work for outdoor photography and pretty flower pictures? I know a 3 feet minimum focus would be problematic but the extra zoom would be nice in a lot of circumstances.

I've been running around with a t2i using just the kit and $100 50mm and having a ball so I'm trying to dip my toes into more expensive waters. That Tamron 17-50 just mentioned is probably a smarter next buy though right?

You would love the 85. Beautiful lens, all the strengths of a good prime lens.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

GoldenNugget posted:

I was told that a good beginners lens is an 18-135mm zoom to get a handle of what focal lengths I like shooting at. Is this a good idea? I'm hesitant because I'm not sure how much telephoto I would do and the aperture on the ones in my price range are dynamic. Also read the image quality isn't as great.

Or should I just stick with the Tamron 17-50mm?

Look at the title of the thread. Pause. Answer your own question.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

1st AD posted:

I can't think of any full frame primes at 14mm that are faster than 2.8. And they're all expensive anyways.

Nope. The rokinon 14 2.8 is about $300.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
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rcman50166 posted:

You show me a $300 Rokinon 14mm and I'll show you a man who bought another lens.

I've seen it online for $300 lots of times.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Saint Fu posted:

That 17-70 has a pretty close minimum focus distance allowing you to get 1:2.7 magnification vs 1:5 with the 17-50. If you're interested in doing a little macro, the 17-70 might be a better choice.

The 17-50 is better. The extra 20mm and moderate improvement at macro are not good reasons. If you're going to shoot macro, buy a macro, or extension tubes. If you need to shoot in the 50-70 range, there are better choices. As a walk around the 17-50 is the much much better lens.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

QPZIL posted:

Noted on both accounts! Canon has been calling me with its sweet siren song, but my photographer ex-gf blinded me to the ways of Nikon and I never looked back :(

Nikon vs Canon vs Snype? You won't be able to see much difference in IQ, DR or ISO, or AF. Find them, hold them, buy the one that feels the best and whose control setup works for you. The current generation of DSLRs are all fantastic. Or, buy one that your rich friend has so you can borrow gear.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

SoundMonkey posted:

Look how dumb you are.

Well, in my defense, I was posting something we've all said over and over.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Combat Pretzel posted:

Can anyone suggest a decent third party wide open 24mm prime with EF mount? The options I know of right how is Sigma and Samyang, and both seem to have kind of significant drawbacks (excessive softness and/or vignetting). I'm like a Canon 24mm/1.4, but I'm not Rockefeller.

I have the sigma 24 1.4 and it's in no way soft.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

ultrabay2000 posted:

I had a Transcend 8GB CF card die on me within a year, although I had probably gotten 8000 shots through it. I am unsure if I should go buy another Transcend or a Sandisk.

The internet says "SANDISK SANDISK SANDISK SANDISK" but a Sandisk card also costs 2x as much. I am unsure if my experiences are just luck of the draw or significantly related to card reliability.

Kingston is also fine.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

xcore posted:

OK, I need some help. All this research with differing opinions is doing my head in.

I have just bought a 7D (OK, I'll be getting one tomorrow) along with a nifty 50 (cause hey, it's cheap and good at what it does).

My ideal lens setup based on my needs/research would be:

Canon EF-S 17-55 (to be purchased first)
Canon EF 70-200 IS (a few months down the road)

But I can't justify the money for both of these so I am going to have to get a 3rd party lens for one of these focal lengths.

Should I go the with a cheaper 17-55 (I hear good things about the Tamron 17-50 or even just the cheaper Canon 15-85)
Or should I go with a cheaper 70-200 (I have only read about the Sigma one which got reasonable reviews)

Did you note the thread title? It has your answer. Second party lenses are not as good as the 70-200 canons, but the tamron 17-50 is no sacrifice in quality.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Haggins posted:

The Tamron 17-50 is pretty good for the price and if you're just starting out, I'd get that. Granted I haven't used the Canon version, but I kinda doubt the Tamron is just as good. The AF on the Tamron is a little slow and it's no where close to L level sharpness/ colors. I have heard around here that the Sigma 17-50 2.8 is as good as the Canon version but I can't confirm that. I've been debating upgrading my Tamron to a Sigma or Canon or just selling it off and saving up $5000 to go full frame with a 24-70 2.8 and a 5D3.

As for the 70-200, I'd go with the Canons are all great and I'd go with the most expensive one you can afford. 70-200 2.8 IS II is heavy but I have no problems carrying it around in the sun all day if I have a black rapid strap or my messenger type camera bag (think tank retrospective 20).

The tamron is excellent but not as good as the canon...which is much more expensive. The best trade off is the non VC tamron and the canon 70-200. I think the sigma OS version is supposed to be excellent, but somewhat more expensive.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
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Instrumedley posted:

Anyone have experience with the Sigma 50-500mm or 150-500mm? How do they compare with the Canon 100-400mm?


I think someone in this thread claimed that the optics will be the same.

Ended up returning my 35mm altogether due to the autofocus system squeaking and clicking. Going to wait a bit to order another, maybe until a new 50mm is announced just in case.

Take a look at the 120-300 f/2.8 from Sigma. The version before it got the dock support and a Sport designation is hardware identical, great reviews on sharpness and AF speed/accuracy. Apparently takes the Sigma TCs extremely well, so you could put a 2x on it and have a 240-600 f/5.6 or a 168-420 f/4. Not too expensive for that generation, too.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Playing with my new Sigma 120-300 f/2.8. Love it so far. The first two are with it with the canon 2x teleconverter.


600mm f8 by torgeaux, on Flickr


600mm Wide Open f5,6 by torgeaux, on Flickr


Bob Approach on 18 by torgeaux, on Flickr

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Alpenglow posted:

Is that Sigma the unstabilized or the OS version? I'm really curious about potentially going from a Canon 300/4 IS to the first version of the Sigma with OS.

It's the OS version, but not the latest "sport" version. They've been broken down and are identical, but for the USB interface. This version got great reviews but for their QA issues, so I bought this from lens rentals, who had given it the thumbs up. No focus issues so far. Fast focus, accurate and sharp even on the 2x tele.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Combat Pretzel posted:

The idea was indeed more as walk around on a FF camera. I'd prefer wider aperture, shallow DOF and all. Not too excited about the third party options in the zoom lenses. I have to decide between a Sigma/Tamron with image stabilization with so-so IQ, or a Canon L non-II (the II is too expensive for me, also I hate the white tube) with good IQ and no stabilization.

Right now I have 24/1.4 manual, 35/1.4 and 50/1.4, hauling them all with me at all times.

Buy my 70-200 2.8. Great price in the sale thread.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

mAlfunkti0n posted:

Arg. So my Zeikos grip came in for my 6D today. It has an issue. If I adjust the ISO using the dial on the grip, my dial on the camera does not work. I have to shut everything off for a few seconds before I can regain control. Just making sure, that is not what the regular Canon grips do .. right?

Yes, the official grip does not screw up functions.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

NoneMoreNegative posted:

Just me, unpacking the car after a busy day shooting.



I want him to get arrested and go to jail sooooooo bad.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Martytoof posted:

What the hell is that from?

Lamar Odom (Khloe Kardashian's husband) was photographed by paparazzi. He then destroyed all the guys cameras, including breaking into his car and throwing his gear in the street. Being investigated for assault and destruction of property now.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Bubbacub posted:

Don't forget about the 85 1.8. Almost as good as the 1.2L, and like 1/5 the price.

More versatile, really, if not quite as good as a pure portrait lens. Faster AF, lighter, and cheaper.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

megalodong posted:

My first DSLR buying question time!

First off, I live in NZ, so prices are terrible short of parallel importing, and I'd rather have the warranty over the (usually) small saving if I bought from overseas.

I'm looking at the EOS 70D, and there's three options: no kit lens, the 18-55, or the 18-135.

The body alone + the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 would set me back $2054, $407 more than buying the 18-55 kit lens for $1647. Or I could go for the 18-135 kit for $1949.
OR! I could go to my local shop which has higher prices, but could get a 18-135, 320EX flash, spare battery, and a (no doubt high quality) bag for $2099 (so basically $150 extra for a extra battery, bag, and flash).

Usually I'd just go for the body and tamron, but I've read that the kit lens for the 70D are good quality as far as kit lens go, especially the 18-135. It'd be nice to support my local store too, but I have no idea how good/useful that extra stuff would be.

I'll be getting the canon EF50 f/1.8 II as well, regardless of what I choose, since it's only $185.

So help me goons. Is the tamron that much better than the kit lens? Is the local store package deal any good?

Yes. No.

The tamron could last the life of the hobby, the limits of the kit lens will drive you to upgrade eventually. The package deal is a very mediocre flash, and a bag you can't pick to fit your own needs. Unless they happen to hit you just right, packages like that are not worth the money.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

whsa posted:

I have a D610. I should have mentioned that my wife uses the camera to shoot wildlife...that's the whole reason I'm looking to get longer reach than 200mm. Decent 400 and 500mm lenses are just not going to happen unfortunately.

I read a review where the guy tried it out and it looked lovely.


Yeah, this sounds interesting but it's not something I need to spend £1000 on.


I think this pointed me in the right direction...it's 3kg, the tamron is half that and plenty heavy.


Thanks for the advice!

They're not identical. I have the older, cheaper one, for canon, and it's great. But the new one is sharper, measurably. Some new materials/coatings for the same lens design.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Elliotw2 posted:

Yeah, it's not really competing with the super expensive fast lenses, it's competing with a 70-300 with a teleconverter.

Also I hope they can release it in A mount sooner than Tamron has been able to.

If they can make it sharper at 600 than the tamron, the aperture will stop no one from buying it.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
So, sigma brings it again. TWO 150-600 lenses, one Sport, one Contemporary. Differing in lens makeup, so one sacrifices some sharpness for weight. Interested in how the pricing shakes out, too. At 6.3 pounds, the sport is a brute.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

NaDy posted:

I've posted this in the Canon thread but I thought I'd post here as well as it's a little more active.

I'm going on a week long trip to Iceland in October and will be looking for a good multi purpose walkaround lens for it. I've finally realised my 18-55 kit lens for my 450d just won't be up to the task, as it's a bit poo poo.

I was looking at the 24-105mm 4.0 L but have read that it's not too good unless it's on a full frame body. Is there much truth to this? I really want a good, sturdy, well built lens with this kind of image quality and zoom. If the 24-105 wouldn't be great on my cropped body, does anyone have any other recommendations for a similar kind of lens?

I'll be shooting mostly landscapes and architecture, usual Iceland stuff. Budget would be around £500.

Edit: Having a quick look around I can see the 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 possibly being alright. It would be good to have a wider angle on it too. Would this be a pretty good choice?

The 24-105 is great. On a crop it will be marginally sharper. But it's also not as great a walk around focal length, at a field of view equivalent to 38-162.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Ineptitude posted:

Why is there not more love for Canon's 200-400 F/4 with built in 1.4 Teleconverter?

I never see this lens mentioned anywhere in discussion groups such as this, nor have i ever seen it for sale used. (maybe this latter point proves there is a lot of love for this thing, if no one that owns it wants to part with it)

Is it considered a "useless hybrid lens" that mostly appeals to gearheads and not professional photographers? I have read several reviews of it, mostly by pretty big guys i wouldnt guess were wildlife photographers by looking at them. Out of the professional reviews (dpreview, etc) it reviews very well.

I have been wanting to buy this thing for some time now, but find it hard to justify spending the ~$20K it would cost here for something that is essentially a hobby.
I really enjoy taking photos with my 70-200 but find myself at 200mm most of the time. The most fun i ever had photographing was at an airshow i was at recently. I was at 200mm and wishing i could go further on almost every photo, which is why i am looking for something that can reach further.
I dislike the lack of versatility of primes though, so the 200-400 looks like a good candidate. Or maybe ill just get Sigma's new 150-600 instead, seeing as i could buy like 10 of it for 1 Canon lens.

Even in photography dollars, $20k is steep. I don't hesitate to spend on my hobby, and that's the kind of thing that never passes from fantasy levels of desire.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Baldbeard posted:

I have a bit of an involved question, and I have zero knowledge of cameras, so I want to apologize ahead of time for any nonsense.
With that out of the way:

My father used to be really into photography in the 80's but gave it up as he got busy with life. He's at retiring age now, and after finally getting him to buy a smartphone (not tech-savy whatsoever, I had to make him an email account etc...) he's been fooling around with the iPhone camera and getting back into his old passion. He's really into taking photos of small stuff like tiny flowers, insects, pebbles n' stuff. I guess this is close up photography?

Anyways, I want to buy him an actual camera. There's 2 main roadblocks though; I don't know poo poo about cameras, and the fucker doesn't even own a computer.
So my questions are:

How good are the displays on entry-level digital SLRs? (these are the ones with interchangeable lenses right?) Would he be able to get a good impression of the photo just looking through the display?

His phone is basically his 'computer'. How bad is this? Would he be able to transfer photos from his camera directly to his phone? Would he need an actual computer to resize photos for sharing/sending to people?

Lastly, any general advice would be great. Thanks goons.

In the absence of a computer a digital camera is a non-starter. Consider a used camera and a cheapo computer as the gift package. And give up all your free time to explaining the net. Or, buy him a nice film setup.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

mobby_6kl posted:

You can do a bunch of poo poo with a camera and phone:
  • Connect a card reader via USB host and access jpegs that way
  • Get an app that understands your camera's RAW format and do the same
  • Use built-in wifi or eyefi to do the same + some level of remote control
  • Use photoshop-whatever to do slightly more than trivial adjustments
  • Connect it with a usb host->usb cable and use remote shooting

the question is whether or not this is worth the pain in the rear end that it is vs just using a real computer (or film).

Back to my point. Doing these machinations to look at DSLR images on a phone is insane. At least a tablet would allow some decent review. A $200 computer would make it worthwhile.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Axeface posted:

I'm looking to get into photography, shooting in a range from big landscape-style stuff (I'm in Colorado) to lower light conditions in an apartment, out on the street, and so on. I'd also like to be able to shoot a little video if possible; I've got a friend very much into the idea of shooting a short film, and I'm pretty drat intrigued by the idea myself, so something with at least basic capability in that direction would be great. The D7000 here is what I've mainly been looking at, as it's in my price range, seems a bit more geared towards beginners to the hobby, and comes with a kit lens, a concern for me right now financially given the cost of quality lenses. I was able to track down a D7100 to handle and it felt pretty good in my hands, so I'm presuming its immediate predecessor would also.

The other one I've been looking into is the t4i. I hear the D7000 outperforms it slightly in most categories and the t5i I found wasn't quite as comfortable a fit in my hands, but the weight in this direction is that it's a little cheaper and, supposedly, shoots video at a higher framerate--although I'm not sure how much qualitative difference that would actually make to me. I also hear Canon generally has better lens quality, which would probably be an issue mostly in the longer term, but still warrants a bit of consideration.

I'm leaning towards the D7000. Does this seem like a good pick for a beginner, or does anybody have any alternative recommendations, or just general advice, that they'd be willing to throw out there?

You've answered the question. The Nikon feels better. Done deal.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Ezekiel_980 posted:

I've done a few modeling shoots with a friend, so the club she dances at could use them for promoting the club. few of her friends have expressed an interest in getting similar shoots done. The other thing I've been doing is helping my dad when he does building shoots of local landmarks for regional banks yearly news letter. So nothing specific, I'm still trying a bit of everything right now.

Execudork nailed it. The overlap in those two areas is. . . small. Also, being good at one isn't a great advertisement for the other, as the overlap in clientele is again small.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

blowfish posted:

It would be much more reasonable to bring two 5dIIIs with these lenses instead~

I just got back from a Disney world trip with the boy. Saw a nice man taking a non-discript family photo, but I could see he had a Canon with a 70-200 2.8 II as a second camera. I waited a sec to see what he was shooting with while his 1Dx hung unused. It was a 645D.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

blowfish posted:

Indestructible Hoya HD filters :colbert:

Since I pretty much drag my camera equipment through the mud, I have UV filters on at all times and remove them for the 0.1% of shots where they introduce excessive flaring. I just bought replacements for two that are ridiculously scratched and I'm happy I don't have to get front elements replaced (on the other hand, Canon lens repairs around here are fixed rates regardless of parts replaced so I could just get a new front element every time something else breaks... :v:)

For some people, they're worth it. Low, low percent though. And things that scratch a filter won't necessarily scratch the lens.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

EL BROMANCE posted:

OK before I put people into a rage, I know cheap filters are generally garbage. However, I've got a trip coming up and beyond a Hoya UV that was given to me (I wouldn't have bought it, don't worry), I don't have any and I'm about to leave the damp and dreary shores of the UK for Mexico for two weeks where I'm led to believe the weather is slightly better*.

So I thought a CPL would be a good purchase, I had one for my old camcorders but they're a 37mm thread so no point even trying to find where I put that. I just bought my body (D7200) and of course I have 5 lenses that have no threading in common. But! my favourite (and probably best) is my 35mm 1.8 that has a 52mm thread, and I have a 50mm prime with the same fit and I'm guessing I'll leave one of those two on my camera for the most amount of time.

So I just want to pick up something cheap for now, before maybe investing in a better one down the line when I've sorted my lenses out and have some step downs etc. The two I spotted online that meet a cheapskate budget and seem well liked are:

Polaroid CPL - £11.99

and

K&F Concept 52mm Filter Kit

Yes, I know - the idea of paying ~$20 for a set of filters, a lens hood and other crap sounds like it should end up in the junk pile, but does anyone have any feedback on using their stuff? The Amazon user base (who I don't trust to be honest) thinks it's fabulous, and hell I could do with most of the things in the kit just so I don't have to hunt down the bits I do have already in my house somewhere, and if I lose/break it all on the trip it's a $20 set. Also it has an ND filter, which I'm guessing would be pretty useful while out there.

Or should I just not bother at all? I tend to like messing with the sky values in lightroom but I'm hoping to get some nice water shots and obviously can't do that in post.

If you're that budget limited, buy the cheap CPL and shoot some test shots. If it hurts as badly as it might, return/resell it. If it's OK, use it. CPLs are very useful, as a rule. The ND is likely to suck so bad you'll never use it. A bad ND will have horrible color cast issues.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Tricerapowerbottom posted:

Worthwhile clear filter for a Canon 24-105 /4 L? It's 77mm across, not sure what's a good choice. Would this do the trick?

Why? If it's just for weather sealing, what conditions will you encounter?

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Tricerapowerbottom posted:

I don't understand your question, I don't think. I'm just looking for a clear filter that won't cause odd light effects and will keep poo poo from touching the surface of the big negative meniscus at the end. My other hobby keeps me outdoors a lot, and in a lot of environments, so there's potential for sand, grit, smoke, water, branches, whatever to touch it.

Easy. The lens Hood for that lens will protect it fine. A clear filter is only necessary for harsh conditions, driving rain, sand storms, predictable salt water spray. Short of that, don't put glass between you and your subject.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Constellation I posted:

http://www.amazon.com/Marumi-77mm-Protect-Filter-Japan/dp/B000WMFYKM

This works too at half the price. No filter is perfect, but it's a must if you're planning on selling the lens, IMO. Nothing kills the value of a lens faster than a scratch on the glass, even if it has zero impact on the picture (especially on the front element). The 24-105 is fairly cheap used though since it's a pack-in lens. I'd suggest a hood as well.

Please, read the thread title.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
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Ineptitude posted:

Why did you go on a tirade about UV filters. The dude asked about clear glass filters, not UV.

Please explain the difference on a digital camera.

iSheep posted:

When I was photographing some AR15s being shot a casing flew into my lens, I had some generic cheap protective filter on there.



If the casing would've smashed my lens is hard to say. But I'm happy I had the filter on in this situation. Otherwise I don't shoot with one.

The difference in strength of the lens versus a filter is huge. But more importantly, how close were you? I've been hit with a lot of casings from M-16s, and none were hard enough to break glass.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TheJeffers posted:

To be fair, some Canon lenses apparently need a front filter installed to complete the lens' weather sealing:


http://www.thephoblographer.com/2013/02/14/how-a-lens-becomes-weather-sealed/#ebWZ21lY1cojBzjY.99

Yes, that's why I asked about whether it was for weather sealing. Even then, most lenses are fine in mist/normal slightly wet conditions.

But, if you only feel safe with one, use it. Read up on how they impact ghosting/flare, as you can mitigate that.

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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
OK, I have a friend looking for a DSLR (or equivalent) in the $3-400 range. He's previously shot Nikon film cameras. I'm obviously recommending he go used. Whats the best bang for buck there in the Nikon world?

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