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Menorah on Fire posted:So aside from being 2/3 to 2 stops faster, what benefit does it offer over the kit? Aside from doing everything a lens does much better, what benefits does it have? I mean, I know it is significantly faster, significantly sharper, has significantly less CA and is significantly better built, but what have you done for me lately?!
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2012 13:36 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 21:02 |
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Bang3r posted:For lenses etc I've bought from the following stores Since this comes up often enough and we Australians get massively screwed, for Sydney... - I get most of my lenses and bodies from B&H, KEH and Adorama. Digital Rev is great (their youtube channel is painful), Digital Camera Warehouse on Canterbury Road are okay, DWI is horrible. - I've bought all my lighting through Cameras Direct in QLD (http://camerasdirect.com.au/), who are great to deal with. Otherwise, Kayell at Artarmon (http://www.kayellaustralia.com.au/) - The only used store I have seen which has a decent range is Foto Riesel on Kent St (http://www.fotoriesel.com.au/). There is a little store on Elizabeth St down near the thing for Army in Hyde Park that has some obscure and film stuff (as well as digital), but their prices are pretty stupid most of the time - For cheap Chinee accessories, ebay or Photoshop Studio down on Paramatta Rd (http://www.photo-shop-studio.com/)if you want something today. Don't pay Teds $200 for a used demo stock, generic chinese light stand. - Film from Macodirect or Freestyle for generic stuff. In a pinch, maybe Foto Riesel or Vanbar, but you will pay $10-$15 per roll. wtf. - Chemicals from Vanbar - If you need development, Vision Image Lab in Redfern (http://www.visionimagelab.com.au/) or Foto Riesel ($10/roll) - For hardcore black and white nerding out, Blanco Negro: http://www.blanconegro.com.au/blanconegro/home/home.html - Printing is all about Pixel Perfect (http://www.pixelperfect.com.au/), but Vision IL are a close second BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 04:57 on May 23, 2013 |
# ¿ May 23, 2013 04:54 |
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xcore posted:$60 for a lens hood from Canon? Jesus christ. Canon hoods are cheap. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Fuji-Fujifilm-GF670-6X6-Professional-lens-hood-/280522464053?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4150711b35 Or to get really dumb: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CONTAX-6...0f607506&_uhb=1 Anyways, I found the Chinese ebay lens hood I got for my 17-55 was a much better fit and finish than the proper canon one I lost. And it cost like fourteen bucks.
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# ¿ May 31, 2013 06:47 |
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Mr. Despair posted:Get a fast CPU, enough ram (I use 8 gigs, 16 would be better, but you don't need more than that), and an SSD. The SSD is probably going to be the most noticeable change you can make though, even if you get a small one to work on and then move the files onto a normal hard drive for long time storage. Two SSDs - one for system, a little one for your scratch disc. Makes a huge difference when stitching or having a wootesque number of layers. E:f,b BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jul 1, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 28, 2013 05:31 |
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Has anyone got any experience with the Hartblei tiltshifts? Or, even more specifically, the 45mm f3.5 one? http://www.hartblei.com/lenses/lens_45mm.htm
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 01:02 |
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xcore posted:Any Aussies on here purchased from KEH? Yup, a bunch of times. Communication is good (although for big orders they made me send through a licence/CC, not sure if that's still a thing) and shipping was quick - but expensive. I usually get them to send it to my shipitto mailbox, then bundle it with anything else I have bought in the last month or two. Works out way cheaper.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2013 05:17 |
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Primo Itch posted:They talk about filling the customs forms... You know if you can declare poo poo as a gift when using it for example? Paying over 90% in taxes on anything that costs more than 50 USD gets old fast They have an online form that you fill out, which gets printed on the customs dec. All the usual stuff - value and gift/merchandise/etc. Obviously, you should alwaysdeclare the full and correct value, since the Australian Government totally earned and deserves that two hundred bucks when you buy a 5D3. And, if you are getting stuff repacked, you can ask for packaging to be removed and/or any invoices/receipts to be mailed separately. I like it. xcore posted:The only way to save any decent money is buying hundreds of dollars of stuff on Amazon in seperate purchases every month. I split it with my wife and her sister. Between them and the amount of stuff Amazon won't ship here, it's worked out pretty well. That whole 'amazon cant send you a ballhead because no good reason' is a whole other angry topic. I also buy a lot of crap, though, so ymmv. BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Aug 27, 2013 |
# ¿ Aug 27, 2013 02:19 |
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TheEye posted:Are there any frequently-recommended tripods that are small, light, and inexpensive? I'm hoping for under $150, or even under $100 if it's possible. I don't care about any extra features, but ideally it would be small and light enough to hike short distances with. Barring that, I'll just be happy to fit it in my suitcase. Any suggestions? I got one of these little Benro dealies. Folds up to about a foot long, fits in a backpack (and easily in a suitcase), and it's light enough (3lbs) that my out-of-shape rear end managed to carry it along the Inca Trail. Hang a heavyass pack/bag/etc off it and it's pretty stable too. http://www.benrousa.com/products_details_C1691TB0#specs There is an aluminium one that's a bit cheaper, at the cost of an extra lb or so.
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# ¿ Oct 16, 2013 06:42 |
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TheEye posted:That looks great, but it seems to be between $400 and $500, with the aluminum one over $200. I would need cheaper recommendations unfortunately. I got mine from t-dimension; they seem to start around AU160ish for aluminium ones, 260ish for CF. I assume someone over there sells them for around that - no way I would ever pay five hundred bucks for some Chinese Gitzo knockoff. The heads are just in order of size. B0 holds 8kg, b1 12kg. Allegedly. Halve them for a realistic loading, though, and you should be in the ballpark. FWIW, I dont get any sagging with the B0 head even with a heavyish combination (about 5lbs or so) I'm not a big fan of twistlocks, but they work well enough and don't seem to slip. Takes marginally more time to set up than my flip-lock Manfrotto, but not enough that it's annoying or anything.
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# ¿ Oct 16, 2013 13:20 |
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bobfather posted:When I was in Rome I had a 17-40 (on a 5D) mounted almost the entire time. This. Your 10-22 will be glued to the camera. Everything is really big and really close. Have fun. Don't let the touts get you down. Rome = awesome.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2013 20:44 |
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Atalante01 posted:Going to Africa in January and I'm looking to get a telephoto lens for Safari. Need a recommendation before I get analysis paralysis and have to give up photography. 200mm is far, far too short. 90% of my shots of animals on safari were between 400 and 500mm. You could get away with 300mm and cropping, but as someone else said, it's not something you are going to be doing every summer, so probably get the right tool for the job if you can. A 2x tele on a 70-200 f2.8 would work, but that's expensive as hell. But you end up with a really useful lens. Wouldn't work with an f/4. Sigma and Tamron have 70-200/2.8s out now that seem to get decent reviews, but I've never used one. In the 'poor mans canon 100-400L' category, Sigma make the 50-500 and 150-500. I have the latter, which I took through Africa and it was pretty much ideal for me, but I think the former is rated a little higher. Either way, they are great lenses... that you will never use again. BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 6, 2013 |
# ¿ Nov 6, 2013 23:30 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:Clearly all safaris are alike. Here's a picture my mom took in Kenya last week with her cell phone: Yes, safaris can be different. But there is not really that much between game drives. Sometimes animals come close to investigate. Scary close. But most of the time, they don't. They hang out where they are, and if they can, the guides will get you closer, especially if you are on the savannah. In the scrub? A lot of the time they can't, so you sit there and watch. So you could totally make do with a short lens, but you will end up missing a whole bunch of shots/animals. Whether you care or not depends on whether you mainly want to see animals or take photos. I guess a better way I could have put it is to take the longest lens you can comfortably carry and afford. You won't regret having more length to play with (that's what she said). If I was backpacking, though, gently caress that noise. I'd grab one of those Canon 70-300/55-250 dealies and be happy with my spine continuing to function. (Or you could just go all Nick Brandt and shoot wild animals from fifteen feet with a p67. Which doubles as self defence. ) BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Nov 7, 2013 |
# ¿ Nov 7, 2013 04:11 |
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800peepee51doodoo posted:Price leak for that new Siggy Fitty - 1300 us dollars Camerapro is loltastically awful and anything on their website can be safely ignored. Two other places are listing it, Dirt Cheap Camera (who are a bit shady with stock levels, but a genuine store) have it down at 899, and Camera Warehouse at 999. http://www.dirtcheapcameras.com.au/sigma-50mm-f-1-4-dg-hsm-art-lens-for-canon-mount.html http://www.camera-warehouse.com.au/sigma-50mm-f14-dg-hsm-art-lens
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2014 03:13 |
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mr. stefan posted:Whats the general consensus on Digitalrev? They've got the tamron 17-50 for the cheapest I've seen yet, but I've heard very little about their store. I've bought a bunch of stuff from them, and it's always arrived quickly and in perfect condition. None of which excuses them for their horrible youtube channel and general fuckwittery, of course. But you aren't going to get scammed or anything.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2014 04:23 |
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404notfound posted:How do I go about picking a light meter? I can see that Sekonic seems to be the most popular brand, but their model lineup (and price points) seem to be all over the place. What do I want to look for, and which features make the premium models worth those couple extra hundred dollars? I have a Sekonic L358, and while it's nice and small, I wish I had sprung the extra for something with a spot meter.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2014 01:33 |
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HPL posted:The Mamiya 80mm f/1.9 is like the only lens even worth trying this for. I think the Zeiss 80/2 (645) and the Hassy 110/2 (66) would like a word with you. Except both cost about as much as an 85L.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2014 01:09 |
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mclifford82 posted:I'm curious for those that chose to go with a 6D over a 5D Mark III: what was the deciding factor? Price differential? Features upgrade not worth it? Don't need the bells/whistles? I only use centre point AF, and a 5d3 was slightly more than double the price of a 6D. I think this might be the first time that Canon has actually got their market segmentation right.
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# ¿ Mar 21, 2014 01:11 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 21:02 |
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Tony Montana posted:So.. gently caress.. anyway.. the only one they had was the VC version for about 350 pounds which is something like 700 bucks Australian or US. I saw it for around that from Ted's Cameras in Australia and so it doesn't seem that insane.. Ted's is the most loltastic of high street camera retailers. Take any price they advertise and halve it to get a realistic ballpark of what you should pay. They once tried to charge me $200 for a flimsy Chinese lightstand. Not even new, the demo one they had on the floor. DWI (HK retailer who are pretty popular here) have it for AUD$272 (with shipping), so you should be able to pick it up for a hell of a lot less than $700. http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au...xFG4ilHsgjw_wcB BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jun 20, 2014 |
# ¿ Jun 20, 2014 01:50 |